Currie Kick Scooter conversion

Don't wind him up he has enough motors, controllers and Lipo to build a ride called Drago that will be pure evil and kill and him on a friendly test run, then I'll have to fix it while listening to Vince dicola and home my skills Ice racing in the depths of the russia so i can then ride it and break some records and end the cold war.
 
Damn... That's deep :lol: :lol: lmfaoooo but yea I believe you the God has so much freakin LIPO POWERRR :bolt: and props to you for fixing it and ending the cold war in your story I liked the extra touch. You should write a book I'll read it
 
Fastassmotors said:
I could weld something for support if need be. Thanks for the recommendations. I think I'm gonna go rv 160 sh so I could beat electric God in a race :lol:

With the RV-120...that's already going to happen. THe C80100 is smaller than the RV-100...so if all you did was go to an RV-100 you'd be quicker.

And yes...put the RV-120 on your MX650. That thing will be VERY quick!!! Honestly...about 6-8kw will be quick on there and you are doubling or trippling that. Ha! Absolutely build yourself an electric crotch rocket! IMHO...don't bother with the smaller 300 if you are thinking of building the 650 into a serious power monster. Now you are making me want to do one! Expect that frame to need help retaining that much power. It was designed around 1kw or so and you are going to run it at around 18-20kw. It will need some reinforcing to hold that much torque. I bet the first thing you do is start twisting off spokes and discover you need better wheels.
 
LIPO? What's that? Yes...I have a few LIPO packs, and 18650's and LTO pouch cells and quite a few SLA's.

I'm thinking here...so an MX650 with this motor...is 60-70kw too much? BTW...that's an Alien Power 120 series (18kw peak)...same as an RV-120 series next to this motor. That's a Motenergy 3031-001 6 phase axial flux motor. I got it for pennies. They sell for $3000+ and I paid $535. I couldn't let that walk away! I have no idea what I'll put that motor in. Right now I'm still looking for motor controllers that can run it. It will need 2 of them, one for each of the 2 sets of 3 phases. That's essentially dual 30-40kw controllers to run this motor.

PMAC%20vs%2012090%204.jpg


The armature and stators in it are 7" across. The hole in the center of the stator is about 1/2" smaller than the outside diameter of the bell on the AP12090 shown above. The phase wires are 4 awg. Just a bit beastly!

3031-001%20top%20stator.jpg

3031-001%20armature%202.jpg
 
fechter said:
ElectricGod said:
I'm thinking here...so an MX650 with this motor...is 60-70kw too much?

Too much is not enough... :twisted:

That sure does look like a beast. OK, maybe a little overkill for a standup scooter. I'd go for something you can sit on and be sort of attached to so you don't get left behind.

You could make custom rotors and make two motors out of it like Ripperton:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=96810&p=1422793#p1422793

Yes...I have looked at this build and thought of doing just this to my 3031. It would certainly lose a lot of weight getting rid of that massive shell....which I have seriously thought about doing. On a stand-up scooter...better have a serious wheely bar! On a sit down like the MX650...uh...better have a serious wheely bar. The 3031 is a giant motor. It's about suited for a 1000cc bike.
 
Well....

Talking to a pal (EV noob) in the UK and about what he's getting out of the PV 12 fet I built for him...it looks like I'm a wimp. He's definitely pulling better than 5kw on his 12 fet. What he and I have different is I'm using AOT290's and he's using CSD19536KCS mosfets. They are better mosfets than the AOT290's by a fair bit. His motor controller is mounted directly to his metal battery box. He shaved off the fins on the mosfet side, added a hunk of 1/4" thick aluminum to the side and then bolted that to the battery box. He's running at 70 amps and 82 volts or 5700 battery watts. I'm using the controller shell only for cooling so mine gets heat soaked much quicker than his does. He's also running at 140 phase amps while I'm doing 130.

So then...not to be outdone by a noob that I totally set up with a winning combination, I'm going to increase my controller cooling significantly and see what happens. If I can consistently get 6kw continuous, the C80100 will get pulled and replaced with the RV-100 I have. The C80100 will only do maybe 5kw continuous so peaks well above this will be a decent test for viability testing for 6kw continuous. The RV-100 is a much bigger and more powerful outrunner. At that point the already way too powerful Currie will be ummm...well way way too powerful. :)
 
Better than not powerful enough :lol: I swear it's always so much better to overbuild and I'm gonna do that on my 650 build. Do you think a thumb throttle for a dirt bike is weird? I might just do it idrc. And is 75-80kw too much? Not for me I'll pin the throttle and do a top speed run believe me :twisted: :bolt: electric power baby
 
drc said:
ElectricGod said:
Well....

Talking to a pal (EV noob)

Who you calling noob!

Sounds like someone needs a box of tissues to dry those tears :flame:

Ha! Hi DRC...yes you are a noob that had tons of help from me and provided some good kit so you could make a nice build.

I WILL destroy those numbers you are getting! >;)
 
Fastassmotors said:
Better than not powerful enough :lol: I swear it's always so much better to overbuild and I'm gonna do that on my 650 build. Do you think a thumb throttle for a dirt bike is weird? I might just do it idrc. And is 75-80kw too much? Not for me I'll pin the throttle and do a top speed run believe me :twisted: :bolt: electric power baby

An RV-120pro on that 650 will be blistering fast and powerful...waaaaaaay over powered!

I like thumb throttles...they have 2 big advantages over twist throttles.

1. Stable grip position. Your hand does not move to change throttle position. On a sit down EV this matters less, but on a stand-up, stability is everything and twisting your hand reduces stability.
2. A twist throttle means your hand is always on the throttle. It's so easy to accidentally twist the throttle while braking. A thumb throttle has nothing to do with braking or grip at all. Take your thumb off and that's that. This is why twist throttles twist backwards to help reduce this problem.

I'd put a thumb throttle on anything.
 
I got my lipos and I'm definitely getting more they are so fricking powerful they really pack a mean punch. I'm gonna do 4s 4x series 5ah and link 4 of those together for 60v 20ah total finished pack. Right now I'm just messing around it would be hard to charge so many. Right away I got a 3ish mph speed boost on mx650 and e300 30mph and 20mph mx. but the acceleration is maddd quicker just from the few extra volts and crazy amp abilities. I've used them a few times pulling 6.5c. They're heavy duties rated for 60 so I'm not too worried.
 
Fastassmotors said:
Ordered 4 more of the same heavy duty Turnigy lipos they're little beasts haha happy thanksgiving electric!

Do you have a build thread?
 
Pulled out a BMS...There was no need for dual BMS's and I've upgraded these BMS for 100+ amps anyway. I made up a set of Y cables so both packs can balance on the one BMS in parallel. I already had power Y cables in the EV so all I had to do was move the negative one to before the BMS instead of after the BMS's. This was pretty easy to pull a redundant BMS. Dual smart BMS also meant I was connecting to one BMS to check status and then connecting to the other one to check status of the other pack. There was no point in having this added complexity. Now there's a spare upgraded smart BMS for something else.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=95853&p=1403576#p1403576

Before:

New%20BMS%20on%20battery%20packs.jpg


After:

Currie%2020181124%20BMS%20and%20battery%20set%20up.jpg
 
Next upgrade will be this heavily modded controller.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=97440&p=1427840#p1427840

Once I see the controller performing well, then I'll drop in the RV-100 outunner I'm getting set up. It's close...still needs a motor base and a few other details. I should get well into 6-7kw territory with this motor.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=94975

After these upgrades, I'll be eating into battery capacity a LOT for the extra wattage. That will mean building a battery pack out of 21700 or 18650 cells. This will get me more Ah, more amperage and probably 82 volts if I want it. Even at 66 volts, the larger motor will mean a higher top speed and better acceleration...like it needs either of those as is!
 
That revised battery box is really clean after revision I like it :bigthumb: I decided I'm not going revolt I read some bad threads on them and there's only like 2 good ones I'm gonna have to go hub motor now I guesssss
 
Fastassmotors said:
That revised battery box is really clean after revision I like it :bigthumb: I decided I'm not going revolt I read some bad threads on them and there's only like 2 good ones I'm gonna have to go hub motor now I guesssss

I think revolt have a gen2 version of thier motors with some of the bugs smoothed out but those dualtron ultra v2 vids show a scooter with a seriously bad attitude that's begging out for modding, Ive listened to the videos of it doing 100kph and I don't think there is much more reliable speed available, but there's always room to up the amps and get to that top speed even faster.

I really like the layout of that scooter I won't be getting one anytime soon unless theres a lucky find on gumtree but I've ordered one of the hubs and tempted to buy a second and make a razor e300 with 12s 20ah running 7kw but with two vesc 6.6 canbus controllers that have traction control linked and more phase amps so it accelerates harder out of the block but tops out at 70kph or 45mph that would be perfect for me I can use phase weakening to get me any further and it would be a lot smaller and lighter than it's big brother, that will still be close on £800 I worked out but I have most of it so it's another £340 to make it the 2wd version.
 
Hey electric can you possibly help me I'm trying to increase the voltage on this cheap controller I blew some stuff thanks.
 
Ianhill said:
I think revolt have a gen2 version of thier motors with some of the bugs smoothed out but those dualtron ultra v2 vids show a scooter with a seriously bad attitude that's begging out for modding, Ive listened to the videos of it doing 100kph and I don't think there is much more reliable speed available, but there's always room to up the amps and get to that top speed even faster.

I really like the layout of that scooter I won't be getting one anytime soon unless theres a lucky find on gumtree but I've ordered one of the hubs and tempted to buy a second and make a razor e300 with 12s 20ah running 7kw but with two vesc 6.6 canbus controllers that have traction control linked and more phase amps so it accelerates harder out of the block but tops out at 70kph or 45mph that would be perfect for me I can use phase weakening to get me any further and it would be a lot smaller and lighter than it's big brother, that will still be close on £800 I worked out but I have most of it so it's another £340 to make it the 2wd version.

Revolt has 3 versions of most of their motors. Regular, Pro and E. I have an RV-100-Regular and will soon have an RV-100-Pro and an RV-100-E.

I'll post reviews of them when they arrive.

Regarding negative posts about Revolt motors...Hubs are big heavy things in the back wheel that make handling and performance worse. I'll take an outrunner over a hub every day of the year! Whether Revolt motors are "bad" or not, I do have to agree that the hall placement isn't ideal, but then I can say the exact same thing about halls in many motors. Just about 80% of all motors I've ever looked at have less than optimal hall placement. Ironically, BOMA (massively cheap Chinese inrunners) do halls right. The hall is captured in a tiny slot in the stator tooth and is flush with the face of the stators. So many others will just hang the halls between the stator teeth completely unsupported and back up to 1cm from the stator faces. I've seen this on hubs, inrunners and outrunners. Revolt is not an exception in this regard. Revolt outrunners are better motors than Alien Power. Alien Power is just Chinese made outrunners commonly found on aliexpress. They get the AP label stuck on them and otherwise they are identical to the same motor found on aliexpress. At least Revolt motors are made in Israel and actually wound there.

I'd go look at my review thread on the RV-100 motors before I decided to dismiss Revolt.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=94975&p=1390802#p1390802

The Dualtron scooters to look to be pretty strong. If I found one for cheap, I'd buy it.
 
ElectricGod said:
Regarding negative posts about Revolt motors.. Whether Revolt motors are "bad" or not, I do have to agree that the hall placement isn't ideal, but then I can say the exact same thing about halls in many motors. Just about 80% of all motors I've ever looked at have less than optimal hall placement. Ironically, BOMA (massively cheap Chinese inrunners) do halls right. The hall is captured in a tiny slot in the stator tooth and is flush with the face of the stators. So many others will just hang the halls between the stator teeth completely unsupported and back up to 1cm from the stator faces. I've seen this on hubs, inrunners and outrunners. Revolt is not an exception in this regard. Revolt outrunners are better motors than Alien Power. Alien Power is just Chinese made outrunners commonly found on aliexpress. They get the AP label stuck on them and otherwise they are identical to the same motor found on aliexpress. At least Revolt motors are made in Israel and actually wound there.

It probably won’t be possible to verify the truth of this electricgod statement now that the revolt thread is dead, BUT:
1) In my 5 years on ES i’ve never seen any other brand doing halls as poorly as Revolt.
2) Who cares if winding is done in israel if it’s only done to a crappy 22% copper fill?

As a reference: The only alien power motor i’ve had was at roughly 50% higher copper fill and halls were on a separate PCB in a correct location. The QS mid motor i use has a separate PCB for the halls and a sensor magnet ring. Same for the super cheap geared hub motors i’ve used.
 
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