Newbie, Looking for answers, 6Kw too much? :) 1st timer w/ a Hub.

This guy is not only a terrible designer he is a liar. If he rode half as hard as he claims he would have already contacted the battery box.

Again, for anyone reading this thread: DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERY BOX WHERE THE WHEEL CAN CONTACT IT UNDER TRAVEL.

flat tire said:

This guy is not only a terrible designer he is a liar. If he rode half as hard as he claims he would have already contacted the battery box.

Again, for anyone reading this thread: DO NOT PUT YOUR BATTERY BOX WHERE THE WHEEL CAN CONTACT IT UNDER TRAVEL.

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Ia aint a lying guy.

I should give you a vid. Of jumps, burnouts, endos, and wheelies. Riding hard. Smoking the tire rolling.

F-u--c---k you Flat tire. I aint lying. Datalogs prove 10 horspower, and what dont you think a 10 horse bike can do? This isnt like your 2 horsepower bike.


Lol. "Poor Designer"?????


8 Ga wire. Datalogs. ( oh so terrible). Tig welded frame ( that isnt breaking). MC TIRES! Suppose I lied about all that too. (oh so terrible). 1300Wh 300A Chevy Volt batteries that dont quit ( and have been purchased from me by other forum members). Spoked by hand. ....for a 3Kw ebike ( Oh so terrible... ) DW link ( oh the terror!) Dual piston 203mm rotors and a Domino with Pro Tapers. Qs pumping 10 horses. Aux buttons and shunts and datalogging. Your bike got that shit?

Oh so terrible.

Want a video? Will you apologize then? Fucknut Tire? You piss me off. " Half as hard", get the fuckk outt a here, you are starting a vendetta. See a vid, ? Apologize, frocker? Will you? A aint lying about how hard I ride this.

F---u--c-k you Asshole i aint lying. So suck your own tit, dont crap on my build thread. Unless you fixin to apologize.

flat tire said:

he is a liar

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Fu-ck you want me to prove. I'll do it right now, for an apology. I aint a liar. I got loads of good feedback, and am a good hobbyist. Get the fu-ck out if you wanna call me a liar again.

Damn this thread went to shit.

My batt is there. But i use a 24" up front. I bet you could add a limiter internally. Or ubolts around the forks. ☺ kidding. Thanks for the link on the Duro btw.

I want to a better , longer rear shock on my Fsr. I have room at the top to drill another hole an inch higher. Not sure if that will effect my geom. Any pointers?

torker said:

Damn this thread went to shit.

My batt is there. But i use a 24" up front.

I want to a better , longer rear shock on my Fsr. I have room at the top to drill another hole an inch higher. Not sure if that will effect my geom. Any pointers?

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Im just proud of my setup and will stand by my build when I say something about it. I pride myself in quality...

(like pickling and cleaning the connections on my homemade batterys... Then coating in oxide inhibitors specifically at experts suggestions upon consultation.. for the hundreds of reliable amps.. that I am not lying about)

.... for years of trouble free use.. and I take offense when my well laid out "design " implementations are called terrible and/or I am labeld as a liar...

This bike is tough. 7005 four link and double butted, well designed frame and a good set of suspension dampers on a direct mount stem with brakes that match. No Chinese junk anywhere. Everything is brand name bike standard industry stuff... Shimano, Sur-Ron, Qs Motor, Hayes, KMC, BontRager, ect... Mine is 24" too. It hasnt stopped me. I didnt even notice the rub until the jumping. 650+ miles.



Geometry wise I know nothing about the FSR setup. Do you bottom ( the suspension)? usually the spring can be tuned, the sag can be tuned, and these things are what you want to do before modify. I know frames are designed with a travel in mind and if you just stick a longer suspension in there you will be in the same pickles that I am in. Frame to small for the travel.

I dont now what makes exactly a good XC bike or DH bike or MotoX bike.. but I know I started with one. I probally cannot feel the difference a 1/2 degree headset makes for one rider or another, I only know that is what they say to do to my bike for " Modern Geometry"... So whats Modern Geometry? It is alot about the final application of the machine I think.. ie enduro, off road, on road... I know my bike gets stiffer ( bob) the harder you push (pedal).. that you can feel. I dont know what sorcery is involved... Rigid rear triangle.

I also know I can weld this frame and fix whatever breaks. Dont start drilling experimental holes in the frame unless you can do this. Yes, I have a 200mm fork on a 130mm travel frame with a different tire size as originally designed around. ( Ironically, my frame was eventually production modified with many different travel choices, in the later models of the Hollowpoint Expert.. with holes just like you are describing)


I been riding on this bike good. Was leaving black stripes on the pavement today, loading up the front brake and tearing the rear wheel loose... Its fun. Shee, tires only 32$, rear is about half gone by now. Jumps are crazy... (need helmet jumps lol) on light ebikes. My driveway is getting torn up.

I'm learning.

Hall sensor error is coming up. Who would have thought?.... Every now and again. I expected it... or something soon.

Time to beat on it real good, right?... before the teardown and rebuild. Lol. Then the mods for cooling,. I am also considering a repower with a bigger QS hub and 30s (134v).

I ran mine on lipo@55 amps for awhile. Nothing compared to lots on here. I have had these 9c kits for about 10 yrs so backed it off for longevity.
The bike is a caddy to me. Top shelf in the early 90s. Just wonder if i can control that heavy hub a little better. I may try it ,I can always put it back. Just don't want to waste 200 bucks if it doesn't help.

Should I fix this?

.... for years of trouble free use..

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I'll upload some pics ( as to what I'm talking about). Time marches on. So be it. It has been about three years, since the the first post in this thread.... going on the fourth. Some 12,000 miles, ... Four rear shocks, and one set of tires.. ten sets of brake pads, three sets of grips... ect.. Through the winters, the salt, the heat of the summer, the hills, the endless rides. Every single moving part on this bicycle is in dire need of a ( full ) rebuild. Battery certainly got another 10,000 miles in it; still holds 100% the original capacity...., Certainly another 10K.. at this level of power. Might replace it for something better. IDK. Still, there are other, problems, so deep, that I dont know whether they are worth fixxing.

Axle nuts scraped up, forks scraped up. Pedals scraped up.... handlebar ends scraped up. I got a little scraped up, too.

All that I can deal with. Those problems are not to significant.

All three phase wires are cracked, along the length. Here, there, everywhere. From the controller, to the windings. This is the damage I am dealing with. This is a 48v, 1000w, 20A rated, motor, run at 3.3kW continuous, 72v, 50A, with a 100A peak.

Fix, run as is, or throw away?

Look, you run it hard, in all sorts of conditions, lots of miles and smiles. You seem to like the performance and handling. It is simply suffering from deferred maintenance. You know how to do the maintenance. Not particularly expensive. But requires time. Do you have the time? If so, fix it and get on with it.

It is just wires and a soldering iron with some solder. Fix the simple wiring and run it.

99t4 said:

Look, you run it hard, in all sorts of conditions, lots of miles and smiles. You seem to like the performance and handling. It is simply suffering from deferred maintenance. You know how to do the maintenance. Not particularly expensive. But requires time. Do you have the time? If so, fix it and get on with it.

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calab said:

It is just wires and a soldering iron with some solder. Fix the simple wiring and run it.

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Yeah I was scared for some unfounded reasoning. I did the deed... Snip snip snip. I was afraid of the 6 + 3 wires, sourcing them, trying to fit them. From all the stories I heard the task was not trivial; I had never donte it. I thought I would be tugging, pulling, in this 25* garage for hours.

Nope, they came right out. Room to spare. I found some 10g THHN that seems like it will fit; 5.27mm^2, in place of the original 3mm ^2.

I got the sensor wires out and they are intact.. I bored the axle out a little, hopefully not to much, and am fitting the new wires in today. Unfortunately, I only have black, not YEL, GRN,., and BLU... so I will only have to be mindful. My dad told me to " run it as is" and " if you put any more power on it, it will burn".... when I told him I plan to run 4.5kW contin instead of 3.3kW contin. So he threw a wrench in the whole shabang. Got me thinking to much about it. I also have a thick 33lb V3 motor here, I almost laced that in yesterday... but I like the thinner motor.

Some pics of the teardown;


A GOOD BEATING:

MOAR PICS



I am replacing the bad, no name, OEm 6004RS bearings with:

SKF Part number 6004/2RSH-LHT23/MB3, a ester base low/wide temperature greased, double side double lip, SKF Explorer deep groove with a machined brass cage in ABEC grade 3 with a 10 kN dynamic rating. ( I am not using the matched pair option, for this part number, even though that is an available part option. )

DogDipstick said:

I found some 10g THHN that seems like it will fit; 5.27mm^2, in place of the original 3mm ^2.

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Wouldn't be my first choice, but OTOH, that area should not see much (if any) repeated flexing and movement so maybe OK? Just don't start doing like prodigious forum member (name rhymes with "fake curtains") haphazardly using twisted together house wiring everywhere :lol: I know you won't.

DogDipstick said:

Unfortunately, I only have black, not YEL, GRN,., and BLU... so I will only have to be mindful.

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Trivial task to label the wires. Stick on bits of different colored common electrical tape or affix pro electrician labels, depending on your aesthetic values.

Thanks! for posting the great photos, gives me helpful ideas for my build-in-progress. What did that purple TA used to be? I recognize the clamp as a plumbing pipe leak patch?

B&D Workmate clamptable FTW!

99t4 said:

B&D Workmate clamptable FTW!

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Oh yeah I do love my WorkMate.

Lol.

I have been running a 35H motor at 50A battery and 100A phase. 3 year at this level with only trivial problem.

I just increased that to 105A battery and 150A phase. I also replaced the bearings for good ones, and the phase wires for 5.27mm vs the OEM 3mm. This has solved my phase wire melting problem, that I had been experiencing.

Its nuts . It was fast. Now..... its " fast as f...."

Downright dangerous off the line, throttle only.

Overheated on my first 5 mile ride. Consumption increased significantly: wH/mile is hampered greatly. I bet I am somewhere around 80wH/mile continuous ( where I was around 40-60 at peak, full throttle, levels, over miles of riding, averaged.... ). Turned my 25 mile battery into a 15 mile battery. 1270wH.

I filled it with Cosmoline paraffin and mineral oil. I may have to turn down the current. We will see. My old man Dad told me straight out that it would not handle that much current. Like he knows anything. lol. Bah. I have finally began to see some heat from the battery: I must have crossed 4C discharge capacity ( ..where the Chevrolet Volt cell begins to make heat.).. I used to get negligible heat from my battery, not enough to notice. Not anymore. She is getting a little hot and bothered.

Its nuts..... ... ....nuts.


It got:
6 gauge battery lines
10g phase lines
A KEB 72450 in place of the KEB72330 ( 105A battery and 150A phase I think)...
A fork rebuild, and a MoCo compression damper in the drive leg:
A set of tires
A set of brake pads, and a new rear rotor:
The new SKF bearings.
Greased all bearings, and whatnot....

Bike is wild. I have already destroyed my back yard, drift around like a goofball in the grassy muddy field. Round and round. Its silly. Must have looked absolutely silly... Absolutely silly, as it covered me in mud, doing donuts round and round in the muddy yard. You can see in the pictures when the hub soaked with heat. Little heat.

Well then.


I guess that was a little too much.

I guess I found my answer.

Big guy fits.

Too bad it's just such a boat .

This bike and it's thread is TNT.

I haven't been on here much. I missed the post on using thhn #10 wire. That doesn't have many strands. Need fine strands for the high amperage. Did it cause the heat issues? Or just thrashing in the mud do it.

Man I love your bike brother Dog Dipstick. Your haters were pissing me off too. You obviously ride the hell out of what you build, and that says more than words my man. And your bike looks HELLA fast and twice as fun! Now that I know how fast and powerful these ebikes are I am totally hooked, and I only have a fraction of your power. I can’t wait to try big power like your turning on my next build. I also wonder how is your braking with that beast? I could just barely slow down my extra heavy ebike with 203mm hydraulic brakes. I adapted motorcycle front brakes and lever and now it is amazing. It has much less noise and stops faster than anything I have ridden. It has made the bike so easy to control and just safe feeling and confidence inspiring. Highly recommended. Man I can’t wait till I can do burn outs and drifts like you are sir. Thank you for sharing and all the great pictures of your EXCELLENT work brother. 8)

Haters are going to hate, its human nature.... everyone does it.... hate.
It looks like a decent ebike to ride.
One thing is for sure, at least dogdipstick is making and building shit to ride that actually propels him to the recreational use store

Haters? What did I miss? :?

Hell yeah. That’s why I made my bike 2wd. It got me to the club today at least 7 minutes faster! I am just now reading about what you guys have been building for years now, and really loving it. Thanks to all builders and sharers, and even some of the haters.

Well if I may interject

There are a few different kinds of ebikers on es

1) A person buys an expensive brand name ebike from his local bicycle store - These kinds of people rarely come around es but you will see them pop in every now and then with a question or two about "Where do I buy a battery for my 5yr old ebike", or "whats the one-off doodad that its not for sale anymore"

2) A person buys an ebay kit that plugs and plays - This kind of person may or may not of entered es to ask questions, but the moment they hear a spark when they plug their battery into the controller they come crawling and ask "I think I damaged my battery, I heard sparks"

3) A person who picks and chooses their components one by one - This kind of person may or may not know exactly what they are doing, they spent 6 months to a year on the es forum, asking questions.

4) Actual fabricators - They chop up their bicycle and make a battery box as part of the frame, they build stuff. The ones that have a drill press or a lathe in the garage along with a mini fridge and couch.

You know, there is something to be said about working with your hands. Your at one, and when your shaping an building your doing something, it makes you proud and when your done you ride it and the joy rises from the sweat on your brow and lithium grease on your cheek.

I think we all are into a little friction here and there, its no big deal. You can never go wrong with Jerry Springer or Maury Povich, stirring the pot are certain peoples fortay.

Scootdan said:

Hell yeah. That’s why I made my bike 2wd. It got me to the club today at least 7 minutes faster! I am just now reading about what you guys have been building for years now, and really loving it. Thanks to all builders and sharers, and even some of the haters.

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Dropout modification for the larger motor. Almost there.


That is 3 lbs of metal total. In the pic, including the cardboard.

Noice.

Have to say took a doubletake at your OP being in the noob sub