New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

casainho said:
maximusdm said:
Hello,

I just replaced the torque sensor and performed the manual calibration. The 2 bolts on the sensor are well tight.
I set it as it shows 125 units on standby and a max of 275.
The problem is as I use the bike the standby value increases with each use. Now it is at 230. :(
I did this process 2 times and it happens the same!

Any ideas why?
Click to expand...
1. If I understand correctly, are the stand by values always changing up or down a lot on every usage?
2. Or, the values are only changing up on every usage?

If 1., I would say your torque sensor is somehow faulty.

If 2., I would say for you to keep using until it will probably stabilize around a constant standby value.
Click to expand...
It always goes up close to the max value.
After installation the ADC value was 170. Yesterday was 220. Now it shows 240 and the motor barely has enough torque to engage.
It might be a problem if the torque sensor is moving slightly in the motor frame. I used some grease to insert easier into the frame with less force to avoid damaging it.
 
Since today my battery is shutting down as soon as I connect it to motor. Led on the battery stops responding and than goes back to life once i restart the battery. I assume BMS shuts the battery down for whatever reason.

When I test the motor power leads (+ and - wire that goes to the motor) for continuity with multimeter, I'm getting short circuit, is this normal?
Since I can remember when connecting powered battery to the battery holder I could hear sparking, is this normal?

I'm running open source firmware on motor and tried connecting motor to computer and flashing the firmware again, everything works.
Battery is 48V one and current voltage is 51V.

Any ideas?
 
Installing brake switches?
I'm starting to configure my tandem for a TDSZ2, and I want to install brake switches. What is the preferred way to wire then up using a 850C display, and a 6 pin out from the motor?

Thanks
 
izeman said:
I finished my bike today. Have the Alfine 11 installed, and a 52T front ring, 20T in the back. But this is to high geared. I will revert to the original 42T next and try that. Also have 16T, 18T and 23T for the back to try and get the optimal setup.
Click to expand...
The IGH hubs almost always have an overdrive function the casettes don't provide. This can work well for small wheel bikes and wide rear hubs that can run small chainrings in front.
Sheldon Browns gear calculator has the IGH hubs in it and can let you see what you will have for gearing. You can input several chainrings and rear cogs at once if you like. The chart gets complex but it CAN do it.
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
 
Retrorockit said:
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Click to expand...
I know Sheldon's calculator. Very nice thing. Still it can only give a rough idea about what to expect. You need to ride the bike (especially with a motor) to see if the gearing works for your special demand. Especially if you never took much care for cadence and such and just pedaled slow or fast or in between :wink: without knowing the RPM.
If you gear your bike for 55km/h @90rpm in highest gear, than it is too HIGH, as you will pedal much faster when going downhill, and I can only reach that speed for a short period on steep downhill roads. That's why I will go back to 42T.
 
RicMcK said:
Installing brake switches?
I'm starting to configure my tandem for a TDSZ2, and I want to install brake switches. What is the preferred way to wire then up using a 850C display, and a 6 pin out from the motor?
Click to expand...
I had to do that as well, and didn't want to cut any connector from the motor or the display. So i bought 2 extension wires. One that connects to the display (6 pins) and one that connects to the motor (7 pins). The later one includes the purple wire for the brake signal. I cut the two unneeded ends and soldered the wires together, splicing in the brake signal.
 
izeman said:
RicMcK said:
Installing brake switches?
I'm starting to configure my tandem for a TDSZ2, and I want to install brake switches. What is the preferred way to wire then up using a 850C display, and a 6 pin out from the motor?
Click to expand...
I had to do that as well, and didn't want to cut any connector from the motor or the display. So i bought 2 extension wires. One that connects to the display (6 pins) and one that connects to the motor (7 pins). The later one includes the purple wire for the brake signal. I cut the two unneeded ends and soldered the wires together, splicing in the brake signal.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Where did you get the connectors-wire cables?
 
hefest said:
Since today my battery is shutting down as soon as I connect it to motor. Led on the battery stops responding and than goes back to life once i restart the battery. I assume BMS shuts the battery down for whatever reason.

When I test the motor power leads (+ and - wire that goes to the motor) for continuity with multimeter, I'm getting short circuit, is this normal?
Since I can remember when connecting powered battery to the battery holder I could hear sparking, is this normal?

I'm running open source firmware on motor and tried connecting motor to computer and flashing the firmware again, everything works.
Battery is 48V one and current voltage is 51V.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

No one?
Can someone measure across motor power connector (with disconnected battery) for continuity/short circuit, I would be grateful.
 
skestans said:
hefest said:
No one?
Can someone measure across motor power connector (with disconnected battery) for continuity/short circuit, I would be grateful.
Click to expand...

Infinite resistance/no continuity
Click to expand...

Yeah, I expected that, thanks.
Not sure what happened there since I'm succesfully flashing the controller so the controller is not dead.
 
izeman said:
Retrorockit said:
https://sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Click to expand...
I know Sheldon's calculator. Very nice thing. Still it can only give a rough idea about what to expect. You need to ride the bike (especially with a motor) to see if the gearing works for your special demand. Especially if you never took much care for cadence and such and just pedaled slow or fast or in between :wink: without knowing the RPM.
If you gear your bike for 55km/h @90rpm in highest gear, than it is too HIGH, as you will pedal much faster when going downhill, and I can only reach that speed for a short period on steep downhill roads. That's why I will go back to 42T.
Click to expand...
The TSDZ2 stop assist at 90rpm, so that's known, and the calculator can solve for other rpm levels. From 40-120 RPM.
 
hefest said:
skestans said:
hefest said:
No one?
Can someone measure across motor power connector (with disconnected battery) for continuity/short circuit, I would be grateful.
Click to expand...

Infinite resistance/no continuity
Click to expand...

Yeah, I expected that, thanks.
Not sure what happened there since I'm succesfully flashing the controller so the controller is not dead.
Click to expand...
Silly question, but you are sure the wiring from battery to motor is good all of the way? Is it possible insulation was worn off and positive lead is touching negative lead?
 
860C display is now working on our OpenSource firmware

Finally I got it working and would not be possible without the help of Electrify Bike and Eco Cycles shops.

The 860C is clearly an important improvement over 850C, you can see here the comparison table I wrote: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Displays-comparison



Both side by side at dark, it is hard to see on the photo the differences, at least the higher screen size can be seen:
 
bergerandfries said:
hefest said:
skestans said:
hefest said:
No one?
Can someone measure across motor power connector (with disconnected battery) for continuity/short circuit, I would be grateful.
Click to expand...

Infinite resistance/no continuity
Click to expand...

Yeah, I expected that, thanks.
Not sure what happened there since I'm succesfully flashing the controller so the controller is not dead.
Click to expand...
Silly question, but you are sure the wiring from battery to motor is good all of the way? Is it possible insulation was worn off and positive lead is touching negative lead?
Click to expand...

Short circuit/continuity on these two, so battery leads are not the issue. How is this possible when there are no clear signs of shorting out on controller.
20200313-123643.jpg


20200313-125910.jpg
 
hefest said:
Short circuit/continuity on these two, so battery leads are not the issue. How is this possible when there are no clear signs of shorting out on controller.
20200313-123643.jpg
Click to expand...
The controller is not a simple thing, it is not easy to see why it may be failing.
 
Anyone willing to sell 48v controller in Europe?

Pswpower will send the one I ordered in a month, who know when it's going to arrive.
 
Casainho you write "860C/850C has a specific hardware to keep counting time even when it is disabled or when you remove the ebike battery.". For my bike this is working somehow, and it shows "some" time when I turn it on the other day. But it's not the correct time.
What is needed to keep the time working? Does the display need to be turned for a specific time to charge the internal battery (I guess it has one). Or is it a "normal" battery that may be depleted?
 
izeman said:
Casainho you write "860C/850C has a specific hardware to keep counting time even when it is disabled or when you remove the ebike battery.". For my bike this is working somehow, and it shows "some" time when I turn it on the other day. But it's not the correct time.
What is needed to keep the time working? Does the display need to be turned for a specific time to charge the internal battery (I guess it has one). Or is it a "normal" battery that may be depleted?
Click to expand...
That happens also on may displays, maybe it is an issue on the firmware...
 
casainho said:
That happens also on may displays, maybe it is an issue on the firmware...
Click to expand...
That's good to know. If it's software I'm sure you will solve it. Better than having to deal with a hardware defect that is not clearly to be identified. It's no important feature at all, but if there is a clock shown (which is super nice) it should work, or it will drive me mad 8)
 
izeman said:
Casainho you write "860C/850C has a specific hardware to keep counting time even when it is disabled or when you remove the ebike battery.". For my bike this is working somehow, and it shows "some" time when I turn it on the other day. But it's not the correct time.
What is needed to keep the time working? Does the display need to be turned for a specific time to charge the internal battery (I guess it has one). Or is it a "normal" battery that may be depleted?
Click to expand...

I am running stock 52v firmware on the motor and euronau firmware on the 850c, and it also does the same. I usually turn off things by flipping off the switch on my battery, but I will start using the actual power off button on the 850c first and see if that resolves the issue
 
bergerandfries said:
I am running stock 52v firmware on the motor and euronau firmware on the 850c, and it also does the same. I usually turn off things by flipping off the switch on my battery, but I will start using the actual power off button on the 850c first and see if that resolves the issue
Click to expand...
Now that you mention it: That's the way I normally do it as well. Never powered the system down with the remote button. I always disconnect the battery by turning off the BMS.
 
New firmware release, 860C display now works!!

Changelog:
- Ebike 860C display now works!! (note that there may be some bugs)
- Corrected issue where current battery Wh was not correctly being shown
- Corrected graph auto max and min and added the semi automatic option
- Removed configuration for battery cells number as it was not really relevant

Get it here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases/tag/860C_850C_SW102_v0.6.9
 
bergerandfries said:
I am running stock 52v firmware on the motor and euronau firmware on the 850c, and it also does the same. I usually turn off things by flipping off the switch on my battery, but I will start using the actual power off button on the 850c first and see if that resolves the issue
Click to expand...

I always switch off with the display button first (this also ensures the odometer is saved if I’m not mistaken) and then switch the battery off if not at home. The clock still shows the wrong time more often than not.
 
I have an issue that I haven't found an answer reading here.

52v TSDZ2, system does not power on with power switch on VLCD5 display or remote handlebar switch, but if I unplug battery and reconnect it comes on without switch and runs fine, then after power off with switch it will not come back on without disconnecting and reconnecting battery.

I may have another display to try, otherwise connections seem good, battery fully charged, this bike has been running almost 2 years
 
Marin said:
I have an issue that I haven't found an answer reading here.

52v TSDZ2, system does not power on with power switch on VLCD5 display or remote handlebar switch, but if I unplug battery and reconnect it comes on without switch and runs fine, then after power off with switch it will not come back on without disconnecting and reconnecting battery.

I may have another display to try, otherwise connections seem good, battery fully charged, this bike has been running almost 2 years
Click to expand...
Did the VLCD5 get wet? It's been my experience that the display exhibits odd behavior after getting wet...
 
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