New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

izeman said:
I just wouldn't have expected this to happen within 10km.
Click to expand...
Heavy load big hill could be the first 10m, not a "fast wearing" issue but "pushing 'til it snaps"

> I don't mind replacing the blue gear. There needs to be a "weakest link" that's easy replaceable.

Like Rohloff's shear pins, wonder if that could be user-added somewhere?

Then going brass might let you get more oomph if needed in brief spurts

> Where do you set that ceiling?

Casainho's FOSS firmware or add a CAv3 for limit throttling.

Note torque (amps) separate from any overtemp limiting.


 
AZUR said:
Casainho, Do you have brake sensors instaled?
Click to expand...
Yes, I do have now. My very first time, I didn't and the blue gear wore just after 20 kms, after I did a few brakes with motor at max power settings of original firmware.

The blue gear did damage to me only on that situation and after some times when my chain blocked or recently with to much battery current like 25 amps.
 
Hello all,
I finally got my TSDZ2 installed and love it. I have the latest v0.6.8 and v0.55.0 installed and I have a couple issues.
First I have the motor surge while coming out of the settings menu.
Second I have twice had it where I turn the system on and after it is fully on I put my feet on the petals and start to petal and the motor surges the the whole system shuts off. I can repeat this continually. To fix it I have to go back into the settings menu select something then exit and restart it. I do not change anything just have to go into the menu.

Last is a question, after going into the settings menu do you always have to come out and restart the system?
Also after a 10 mile ride at power setting 7 the motor temp got up to 140. Is this normal?

Thank you
 
Brlowe said:
Hello all,
I finally got my TSDZ2 installed and love it. I have the latest v0.6.8 and v0.55.0 installed and I have a couple issues.
First I have the motor surge while coming out of the settings menu.
Second I have twice had it where I turn the system on and after it is fully on I put my feet on the petals and start to petal and the motor surges the the whole system shuts off.
Click to expand...
I have a version that improves a lot that issue, I will try to make it better and I hope to release a version today.
 
Finally I had time to install 860C display on my bicycle. Sure it has a better aspect than 850C and buttons are really robust. But it is even bigger than 850C...

2020-03-19-18-02-07-1.jpg
 
Tomorrow I will get a torque sensor, I want to figure out why it stopped working. The principle is clear, one fixed coil goes to the controller, the other is fixed to the shaft in series with the strain gauge, when the pedals rotate, the pressure is applied to the strain gauge and, accordingly, the strain gauge changes resistance and since it changes the EMF in the circuit with the coil at the output of the fixed coil, this way the controller calculates the level help. So the malfunction may be either damage to the coils or strain gauge.
 
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Casainho, Do you have brake sensors instaled?
Click to expand...
Yes, I do have now. My very first time, I didn't and the blue gear wore just after 20 kms, after I did a few brakes with motor at max power settings of original firmware.

The blue gear did damage to me only on that situation and after some times when my chain blocked or recently with to much battery current like 25 amps.
Click to expand...
Wanted to replace the blue gear, as everyone said it will be damaged. Took the motor apart, this is was the blue gear looks like (and YES, the backside looks the same). Tell me which one is the new one, and which is the old. 8)
Everything in the motor looks fine. All gears look intact, bearings are ok - Chinese style, and I can't find any obvious problem.
As I mentioned: When I pedal there is no noise, so it clearly comes from the motor. And it's not a really complicated setup. Motor, 2 gears, another two gears, and that's it.
Any ideas?


IMG_3378.JPG


IMG_3379.JPG
 
izeman said:
Everything in the motor looks fine. All gears look intact, bearings are ok - Chinese style, and I can't find any obvious problem.
As I mentioned: When I pedal there is no noise, so it clearly comes from the motor. And it's not a really complicated setup. Motor, 2 gears, another two gears, and that's it.
Click to expand...
Did you read the wiki FAQ?? I bet the issue is the clutch slipping on the gear... and if so, it was not your fault as I said on first time. Let's discuss after you confirm the issue.
 
casainho said:
Brlowe said:
Hello all,
I finally got my TSDZ2 installed and love it. I have the latest v0.6.8 and v0.55.0 installed and I have a couple issues.
First I have the motor surge while coming out of the settings menu.
Second I have twice had it where I turn the system on and after it is fully on I put my feet on the petals and start to petal and the motor surges the the whole system shuts off.
Click to expand...
I have a version that improves a lot that issue, I will try to make it better and I hope to release a version today.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all the hard work you do for us.
 
Cristian said:
I searched around, but i can't find much about play in the axle. It started today, it's about 1-2mm of play. What is the cause? What do i have to replace?
Click to expand...
Does anyone know what is causing play in the axle?
 
Cristian said:
Cristian said:
I searched around, but i can't find much about play in the axle. It started today, it's about 1-2mm of play. What is the cause? What do i have to replace?
Click to expand...
Does anyone know what is causing play in the axle?
Click to expand...
The play on the axle, search on Google, YouTube about the axle assembly, bearings, etc. PSWPOWER seels a product related to axle...
 
There is no strain gauge in the sensor, the deflection is detected by a hall sensor.
Thanks. The error came out. :)
 
izeman said:
casainho said:
AZUR said:
Casainho, Do you have brake sensors instaled?
Click to expand...
Yes, I do have now. My very first time, I didn't and the blue gear wore just after 20 kms, after I did a few brakes with motor at max power settings of original firmware.

The blue gear did damage to me only on that situation and after some times when my chain blocked or recently with to much battery current like 25 amps.
Click to expand...
Wanted to replace the blue gear, as everyone said it will be damaged. Took the motor apart, this is was the blue gear looks like (and YES, the backside looks the same). Tell me which one is the new one, and which is the old. 8)
Everything in the motor looks fine. All gears look intact, bearings are ok - Chinese style, and I can't find any obvious problem.
As I mentioned: When I pedal there is no noise, so it clearly comes from the motor. And it's not a really complicated setup. Motor, 2 gears, another two gears, and that's it.
Any ideas?


IMG_3378.JPG


IMG_3379.JPG
Click to expand...

Generally, if something makes a noise, something is rubbing against something else.
When something is rubbing it leaves traces, like scratches or something.
If the problem isn't coming from the blue gear, not the clutch bearing, than you should be able to find visual evidence somewhere else.
A strong light and magnifying glass will come in handy.
 
Brand new TDSZ2?
I just got a new TDSZ2 to put on my wife's bike. I currently have a modified one on my touring bike (flashed, thermal pads, temp sensor, dual chainring, KT-LCD3... ).

I bought it from PSW Power. Should I install the new one and ride it for a while in the stock configuration, in case there are any problems with the motor?
 
RicMcK said:
Brand new TDSZ2?
I just got a new TDSZ2 to put on my wife's bike. I currently have a modified one on my touring bike (flashed, thermal pads, temp sensor, dual chainring, KT-LCD3... ).

I bought it from PSW Power. Should I install the new one and ride it for a while in the stock configuration, in case there are any problems with the motor?
Click to expand...
I think it’s the only way to try and find out if it has an issue while still being able to claim the warranty. Although you can still reflash it with stock firmware (motor only) if anything goes wrong but that’s morally murky so I’ll let you decide.
 
maximusdm said:
aja said:
Can someone please help me; I've tried connecting the ST Link to the Speed sensor on the TSDZ2 to flash the firmware to the motor but whatever I do, I get the same Swim comms error; started with cables inc connectors at 9cm and cut them down to 5cm...still doesn't work; spent the whole weekend creating cables then soldering and re-soldering t different lengths; nothings worked. I do have a speed sensor cable but don't want to cut it up if I get the same result as I've followed JB's and Casainho and indeed Eco ebikes instructions but to no avail. :(
I've flashed the 0.14 hex file to the LCD3 without a problem.
Click to expand...

I managed to finally read the motor firmware.... It was a nightmare!
I do not know for sure but I think the wires on the motor are longer than others or they have some bigger electrical resistance.
Botom line is that I only managed to read the firmware with 10 cm cables(in total!!!) directly soldered into the controler.

Steps:
- Connected wires to swim, reset and ground and connected the pins directly in STlink.
- I have the LCD connected and battery connected
- I power the LCD ON and now I attempt to read the firmware (Thank you casainho!)

=> it works fine
Click to expand...

Hello guys!
I have the same problem as Aja and Maximusdm.

I have the ST link V2.
When I try to connect to my XH18 unit (through the 6 pin cable, not directly on the unit, recpecting the connection sketch), I have the same message: "please check the swim cables etc..." on the STVP program (STM8S105x4 or X6). My XH18 doesn't switch on when I connect it to the computer.
It is the same when I try to connect directly to the motor (where the 6 pin cable is quite small).

What I have tried so far without success:
- installed the st link v2 driver to my windows 10 computer
- change the wires of the ST lik V2 and connect with small brace tubes the wires to the usb key and 6 pins cable. Those 4 cables are 5cm long

I have a TSDZ2 250W 36V, and a 48V battery (this is also why I need to change the software, because the assistance doesn't work with a 48V battery.
My XH18 worked properly when I connect it to the motor.

Thanks for your help, as I can't find the answer on the forum.
 
bricepapayou said:
Hello guys!
I have the same problem as Aja and Maximusdm.

I have the ST link V2.
When I try to connect to my XH18 unit (through the 6 pin cable, not directly on the unit, recpecting the connection sketch), I have the same message: "please check the swim cables etc..." on the STVP program (STM8S105x4 or X6). My XH18 doesn't switch on when I connect it to the computer.
It is the same when I try to connect directly to the motor (where the 6 pin cable is quite small).

What I have tried so far without success:
- installed the st link v2 driver to my windows 10 computer
- change the wires of the ST lik V2 and connect with small brace tubes the wires to the usb key and 6 pins cable. Those 4 cables are 5cm long

I have a TSDZ2 250W 36V, and a 48V battery (this is also why I need to change the software, because the assistance doesn't work with a 48V battery.
My XH18 worked properly when I connect it to the motor.

Thanks for your help, as I can't find the answer on the forum.
Click to expand...

Which wire are you trying to connect your St-Link? You should have your display connected to the motor and both powered with the battery, then you connect St-Link to speed sensor cable. And software-wise follow these instructions https://github.com/stancecoke/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/wiki
 
I've got a 850C and 52v stock firmware setup that I want to move to the Open Source firmware for both. However, should I go with 850C Version 0.6.2 (which pairs with Motor Version 0.51.0) or wait for an impending release? I guess what I'm asking is what is coming soon from the developers versus 0.6.2/0.51.0? Thanks!
 
bergerandfries said:
I've got a 850C and 52v stock firmware setup that I want to move to the Open Source firmware for both. However, should I go with 850C Version 0.6.2 (which pairs with Motor Version 0.51.0) or wait for an impending release? I guess what I'm asking is what is coming soon from the developers versus 0.6.2/0.51.0? Thanks!
Click to expand...
There was a newer version but it’s just been pulled out because it has too many critical bugs. I’m personally sticking to 0.6.5 which works fine 95% of the time. I wouldn’t recommend a more recent one for now based on the issues people are having until there is a new release that corrects them.
 
How to improve pedal distance to frame Q factor

I improved the Q factor and I wrote a How To:

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-improve-pedal-distance-to-frame-Q-factor


Screenshot-20200322-235533-Chrome.jpg
 
casainho said:
How to improve pedal distance to frame Q factor
Click to expand...

Also from several Aliexpress sellers you can buy only the right side Bafang crank for about 10$ shipped.

It makes quite a big difference, before I had constant slight feeling of sitting off centre even though being straight on the saddle.
 
ilu said:
casainho said:
How to improve pedal distance to frame Q factor
Click to expand...

Also from several Aliexpress sellers you can buy only the right side Bafang crank for about 10$ shipped.

It makes quite a big difference, before I had constant slight feeling of sitting off centre even though being straight on the saddle.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback. I added some of your words that are better than mine. I also added a topic for Improvements to the wiki, adding this Q factor improvement and others:

image.png


image.png
 
Indeed, I used the bafang crank on each and every motor I installed up till now.
Never had a client's bike where this wasn't needed.
I wonder why the manufacturer never corrected this.
Does anyone here have a well centered setup with the default crank arms?
 
I have the 6v light cable coming from the dual connector speed sensor, and I'm only using one if the two wires for a basic front light. I'm not putting a rear light on this build, so was thinking about using the other end to make a USB output for charging a phone or something. I'll use a switch so only the light or USB is working at a time, but does anyone know if I can just connect a USB terminal to those 6v wires (I know USB power generally is 5v) or do I need a voltage regulator of some sort to safely charge electronics?

I know the amperage is also quite small so this would only be a backup solution, usually I won't need it.
 
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