TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only -- Flexible OpenSource firmware (Casainho code only)

r0mko said:
casainho said:
You should wait for a new firmware version or try an older one, and, use a fuse in series with the battery wire to try avoid the same to happen (I would say a car fuse of 5 amps).
Click to expand...

No problem, I can build whatever firmware and flash it right away. I need my bike back as soon as possible, so I have to decide:
switch to 36V setup with the old motor, controller and battery
or
put a 36V controller with a 48V motor and run in from the 48V battery
Click to expand...

Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
 
When I started my conversation, I didn’t know the different between W , V, A and current. Thank you guys for doing this, I have learned a lot. I have managed to covert my bike (TSDZ2 with 850c/ 52v 17.5a battery) with lot’s of difficulty, mainly by searching google and ending up finding my answers in this forum. as a dyslexic i found it incredibly hard to find info in any forum. I have a few questions please.
1- how can I donate to Casainho? Sow something in forum but can’t find it again.
2- how can I access the displays sitting? (double-clicking on/off switch doesn’t work)
3- on the 850C finger control, when I press + it decrease the assist level and increases by pressing -, is that normal? (It is wrong way round to me).
4- I have installed the temperature sensor, where can I see the motor temperature in 850c Display?
I fallowed eco ebike recommendation of v0.6.2 version for 850C and v0.51.0 for TSDZ2 Motor. Thanks
 

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nassal said:
When I started my conversation, I didn’t know the different between W , V, A and current. Thank you guys for doing this, I have learned a lot. I have managed to covert my bike (TSDZ2 with 850c/ 52v 17.5a battery) with lot’s of difficulty, mainly by searching google and ending up finding my answers in this forum. as a dyslexic i found it incredibly hard to find info in any forum. I have a few questions please.
1- how can I donate to Casainho? Sow something in forum but can’t find it again.
2- how can I access the displays sitting? (double-clicking on/off switch doesn’t work)
3- on the 850C finger control, when I press + it decrease the assist level and increases by pressing -, is that normal? (It is wrong way round to me).
4- I have installed the temperature sensor, where can I see the motor temperature in 850c Display?
I fallowed eco ebike recommendation of v0.6.2 version for 850C and v0.51.0 for TSDZ2 Motor. Thanks
Click to expand...
You can donate to me to my PayPal, see my signature. I don't have anymore more blue gears in stock, I am being damaging them in recent developments so I will need to buy more of these gears and other material to keep developing.

You did well to follow the advice of Eco Bike recommendations!! I hope to release soon a new firmware version and I will update the wiki configurations page.

To know how to navigate, you need to read the wiki page about configurations and the page specific for your firmware version.

3 - that is a feature, maybe you had the buttons on the right side of the handle bar. See configurations for change that feature.
 
jeff.page.rides said:
Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
Click to expand...

Wow, 36V motor in 48V system is SCARY fast. It can keep up with cadence 90 and even higher, but apparently max RPM (in the firmware is now the limitation. It pulls all the way up to max RPM and then fails to spin faster, which feels like a brick wall. What do you think, @casainho, is it possible to push RPM even further for volt-modding? 30 points of PWM per sine wave seems a bit conservative.
 
r0mko said:
jeff.page.rides said:
Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
Click to expand...

Wow, 36V motor in 48V system is SCARY fast. It can keep up with cadence 90 and even higher, but apparently max RPM (in the firmware is now the limitation. It pulls all the way up to max RPM and then fails to spin faster, which feels like a brick wall. What do you think, @casainho, is it possible to push RPM even further for volt-modding? 30 points of PWM per sine wave seems a bit conservative.
Click to expand...
I am still on an older version and this is the settings I would use.
your version may be different, but what you want is experimental 36 Volt or it's also called high cadence 36 Volt.
Here is the setting for your motor Volts and cadence.
If you change it to (3) you can pedal a much high cadence.
Menu(0) submenu (3) level (3)

(0) 48 V motor.
(1) 36 V motor.
(2) Experimental 48 V motor, high cadence mode.
(3) Experimental 36 V motor, high cadence mode.
 
jeff.page.rides said:
r0mko said:
jeff.page.rides said:
Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
Click to expand...

Wow, 36V motor in 48V system is SCARY fast. It can keep up with cadence 90 and even higher, but apparently max RPM (in the firmware is now the limitation. It pulls all the way up to max RPM and then fails to spin faster, which feels like a brick wall. What do you think, @casainho, is it possible to push RPM even further for volt-modding? 30 points of PWM per sine wave seems a bit conservative.
Click to expand...
I am still on an older version and this is the settings I would use.
your version may be different, but what you want is experimental 36 Volt or it's also called high cadence 36 Volt.
Here is the setting for my version Volts and Cadence.
If you change it to (3) you can pedal a much high cadence.
Menu(0) submenu (3) level (3)

(0) 48 V motor.
(1) 36 V motor.
(2) Experimental 48 V motor, high cadence mode.
(3) Experimental 36 V motor, high cadence mode.
Click to expand...
 
jeff.page.rides said:
jeff.page.rides said:
r0mko said:
jeff.page.rides said:
Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
Click to expand...

Wow, 36V motor in 48V system is SCARY fast. It can keep up with cadence 90 and even higher, but apparently max RPM (in the firmware is now the limitation. It pulls all the way up to max RPM and then fails to spin faster, which feels like a brick wall. What do you think, @casainho, is it possible to push RPM even further for volt-modding? 30 points of PWM per sine wave seems a bit conservative.
Click to expand...
I am still on an older version and this is the settings I would use.
Your version may be different, but what you want is experimental 36 Volt or it's also called high cadence 36 Volt.
Here is the setting for my version Volts and Cadence.
If you change it to (3) you can pedal a much high cadence.
Menu(0) submenu (3) level (3)

(0) 48 V motor.
(1) 36 V motor.
(2) Experimental 48 V motor, high cadence mode.
(3) Experimental 36 V motor, high cadence mode.
You also need to go into the battery setup and put it in what your battery is.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
jeff.page.rides said:
I am still on an older version and this is the settings I would use.
Your version may be different, but what you want is experimental 36 Volt or it's also called high cadence 36 Volt.
Here is the setting for my version Volts and Cadence.
If you change it to (3) you can pedal a much high cadence.
Menu(0) submenu (3) level (3)

(0) 48 V motor.
(1) 36 V motor.
(2) Experimental 48 V motor, high cadence mode.
(3) Experimental 36 V motor, high cadence mode.
You also need to go into the battery setup and put it in what your battery is.
Click to expand...

Motor type was the first setting I tried to change. Seems that it has no effect, the motor produces the same sound pitch at redline at whatever setting.
What does the battery type setting change? It is now 13 cells and 48V type.
 
r0mko said:
jeff.page.rides said:
Just a suggestion but, Buba uses a 36 Volt motor with a 52 Volt battery set at 36 Volt for the motor. That was his favorite. If you have the hardware give it a try the only downside I've read is that it may or may not be possible that the 36 Volt motor would put out more heat. I've been wanting to try this combination because he claims you get more torque above 50 RPM this way. I don't have an extra 36 Volt motor and don't have the funds to buy one so I haven't been able to test it yet.
Click to expand...

Wow, 36V motor in 48V system is SCARY fast. It can keep up with cadence 90 and even higher, but apparently max RPM (in the firmware is now the limitation. It pulls all the way up to max RPM and then fails to spin faster, which feels like a brick wall. What do you think, @casainho, is it possible to push RPM even further for volt-modding? 30 points of PWM per sine wave seems a bit conservative.
Click to expand...

You guys should buy yourself a motorcycle haha :)
 
I uploaded sw102 0.6.9 and 0.55 to tsdz2 a few days ago. I drove 50km and everything works. a few posts earlier someone wrote that the driver burned uploading 6.8 or 6.9. Was it a problem during the upload process or is I at risk of damaging the driver while driving?
 
hetm4n said:
I uploaded sw102 0.6.9 and 0.55 to tsdz2 a few days ago. I drove 50km and everything works. a few posts earlier someone wrote that the driver burned uploading 6.8 or 6.9. Was it a problem during the upload process or is I at risk of damaging the driver while driving?
Click to expand...

These versions have been pulled because they're not safe to use apparently. I think the consensus is to stay on 0.54 + 0.6.5 for now.
 
Found configuration menu, I think it is to do with programming. I just what to know how to access 850 setting!!. Double-clicking on/off doesn’t bring uk the display settings.
 
casainho said:
nassal said:
When I started my conversation, I didn’t know the different between W , V, A and current. Thank you guys for doing this, I have learned a lot. I have managed to covert my bike (TSDZ2 with 850c/ 52v 17.5a battery) with lot’s of difficulty, mainly by searching google and ending up finding my answers in this forum. as a dyslexic i found it incredibly hard to find info in any forum. I have a few questions please.
1- how can I donate to Casainho? Sow something in forum but can’t find it again.
2- how can I access the displays sitting? (double-clicking on/off switch doesn’t work)
3- on the 850C finger control, when I press + it decrease the assist level and increases by pressing -, is that normal? (It is wrong way round to me).
4- I have installed the temperature sensor, where can I see the motor temperature in 850c Display?
I fallowed eco ebike recommendation of v0.6.2 version for 850C and v0.51.0 for TSDZ2 Motor. Thanks
Click to expand...
You can donate to me to my PayPal, see my signature. I don't have anymore more blue gears in stock, I am being damaging them in recent developments so I will need to buy more of these gears and other material to keep developing.

You did well to follow the advice of Eco Bike recommendations!! I hope to release soon a new firmware version and I will update the wiki configurations page.

To know how to navigate, you need to read the wiki page about configurations and the page specific for your firmware version.

3 - that is a feature, maybe you had the buttons on the right side of the handle bar. See configurations for change that feature.
Click to expand...

Found configuration menu, I think it is to do with programming. I just what to know how to access 850 setting!!. Double-clicking on/off doesn’t bring up the display settings.
 
nassal said:
Found configuration menu, I think it is to do with programming. I just what to know how to access 850 setting!!. Double-clicking on/off doesn’t bring up the display settings.
Click to expand...


on the newest firmware its hold UP & DOWN & PWR but make sure to press UP & DOWN first and then immediately PWR.

on the prior firmwares its quick press PWR, release, long press PWR.
 
r0mko said:
jeff.page.rides said:
I am still on an older version and this is the settings I would use.
Your version may be different, but what you want is experimental 36 Volt or it's also called high cadence 36 Volt.
Here is the setting for my version Volts and Cadence.
If you change it to (3) you can pedal a much high cadence.
Menu(0) submenu (3) level (3)

(0) 48 V motor.
(1) 36 V motor.
(2) Experimental 48 V motor, high cadence mode.
(3) Experimental 36 V motor, high cadence mode.
You also need to go into the battery setup and put it in what your battery is.
Click to expand...

Motor type was the first setting I tried to change. Seems that it has no effect, the motor produces the same sound pitch at redline at whatever setting.
What does the battery type setting change? It is now 13 cells and 48V type.
Click to expand...

To be safe and work correctly you need to set your battery to exactly what it is. And if you're using a 36V motor it needs to be set at 36V standard or 36V high cadence. If your using a 48V motor it needs to be set at 48V standard
 
New firmware release: 860C_850C_SW102_v0.7.0

I did a new firmware release and this time I took a lot of care to make the motor initialization robust. I tested many times (850C, 860C and SW102) and it seems to work correctly but I think only the time will tell.

Get it here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/releases/tag/860C_850C_SW102_v0.7.0

---

This version was developed for the TSDZ2 motor controller firmware v0.56.0 (TSDZ2-v0.56.0.hex) -- see bellow attached files.

WARNING: as the previous firmware version burn the motor controller and/or make unwanted motor rotating at max speed and power, please be very careful when installing this version by keep the back wheel on the air, have brake sensors installed and the possibility with easy access to quick cut the battery power like removing the battery connector to the TSDZ2.

After installing this firmware, follow the next page to learn how to configure and navigate: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Features-and-configurations-on-display

Changelog:
- (hope) corrected the fatal issue that could burn the motor controller and/or make unwanted motor rotating at max speed and power
 
Thanks. Were you able to replicate the max power issue? like when exiting the config menu after a change it would deliver max power.

im just curious exactly which symptoms were tested/addressed.

casainho said:
I did a new firmware release and this time I took a lot of care to make the motor initialization robust. I tested many times (850C, 860C and SW102) and it seems to work correctly but I think only the time will tell.
Click to expand...
 
ezrider1199 said:
Thanks. Were you able to replicate the max power issue? like when exiting the config menu after a change it would deliver max power.

im just curious exactly which symptoms were tested/addressed.

casainho said:
I did a new firmware release and this time I took a lot of care to make the motor initialization robust. I tested many times (850C, 860C and SW102) and it seems to work correctly but I think only the time will tell.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I used the SDCC old version. I re wrote again the motor initialization, that happens at startup and when leaving the configurations.

1. At startup, the TX and RX lines are verified to see if they work as expected.
2. Then, motor firmware version is sent to display to see if is the expected one.
3. Then, configurations are sent to motor controller and a delay of 2 seconds happens (on display we see the message motor init during the initialization)

When leaving the configurations, only 3. is executed.

After motor initialization, missing communication for more then 0.8 seconds, will disable the motor until next restart.
 
In social distancing mode because COVID, I did today alone with my son, 45kms running latest
firmware 860C_850C_SW102_v0.7.0 -- two different bicycles, one with 860C display and other with 850C display. I trust enough on this version that I did install it on the bicycle of my son:

2020-03-25-16-48-47-3.jpg


2020-03-25-19-24-52-1.jpg


2020-03-25-19-26-04-1.jpg
 
Hi guys,

why do I always have to set the actual time when battery was changed?
Isn't the time being stored in the 850C display?

Thanks
 
ezrider1199 said:
nassal said:
Found configuration menu, I think it is to do with programming. I just what to know how to access 850 setting!!. Double-clicking on/off doesn’t bring up the display settings.
Click to expand...


on the newest firmware its hold UP & DOWN & PWR but make sure to press UP & DOWN first and then immediately PWR.

on the prior firmwares its quick press PWR, release, long press PWR.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I can change display front settings now, can’t change time/km to mile and can’t get to display configuration. 850c v0.6.2 and v0.51.0 hex.
have installed temperature sensor but on the display, T sensor is on 0 all the time.
Up and down is wrong way round, not Physically though. up button decreases the assist level. Any idea?
 
Maverix said:
Hi guys,

why do I always have to set the actual time when battery was changed?
Isn't the time being stored in the 850C display?
Click to expand...
I just wrote about this on the wiki FAQ: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/FAQ#850C_display_clock_losing_time
 
casainho said:
In social distancing mode because COVID, I did today alone with my son, 45kms running latest
firmware 860C_850C_SW102_v0.7.0 -- two different bicycles, one with 860C display and other with 850C display. I trust enough on this version that I did install it on the bicycle of my son:
Click to expand...
850C Occasionally after multiple resets you got a glimpse of just how good the power delivery is. Now it’s on tap and so smooth. Brilliant stuff and the lights work. Happiness!! Fantastic job and well done. Thank you.
 
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