New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

knutselmaaster said:
Indeed, I used the bafang crank on each and every motor I installed up till now.
Never had a client's bike where this wasn't needed.
I wonder why the manufacturer never corrected this.
Does anyone here have a well centered setup with the default crank arms?

I think it's not possible as with identical crankarms the maing gear housing of the motor inevitably pushes the centerline to the right. Obvious problem and a simple solution so it is truly suprising the manufacturer hasn't corrected it.
 
ilu said:
I have the 6v light cable coming from the dual connector speed sensor, and I'm only using one if the two wires for a basic front light. I'm not putting a rear light on this build, so was thinking about using the other end to make a USB output for charging a phone or something. I'll use a switch so only the light or USB is working at a time, but does anyone know if I can just connect a USB terminal to those 6v wires (I know USB power generally is 5v) or do I need a voltage regulator of some sort to safely charge electronics?

I have spliced into the rear lights for this purpose however it was to power a couple of super cheap fairy lights for my cargo bike. It works but I definitely wouldn't charge my phone from this connection. Step down converters for the battery voltage are cheap plus will be more suited as you don't need to have the bike lights on to be able to charge your phone.
 
casainho said:
image.png

image.png

Hi casainho!
Screenshot 2020-03-23 at 15.22.03.png
Does that mean that I can replace a fried 48V controller with a spare 36V one?
 
bricepapayou said:
Hello guys!
I have the same problem as Aja and Maximusdm.

I have the ST link V2.
When I try to connect to my XH18 unit (through the 6 pin cable, not directly on the unit, recpecting the connection sketch), I have the same message: "please check the swim cables etc..." on the STVP program (STM8S105x4 or X6). My XH18 doesn't switch on when I connect it to the computer.
It is the same when I try to connect directly to the motor (where the 6 pin cable is quite small).

What I have tried so far without success:
- installed the st link v2 driver to my windows 10 computer
- change the wires of the ST lik V2 and connect with small brace tubes the wires to the usb key and 6 pins cable. Those 4 cables are 5cm long

I have a TSDZ2 250W 36V, and a 48V battery (this is also why I need to change the software, because the assistance doesn't work with a 48V battery.
My XH18 worked properly when I connect it to the motor.

Thanks for your help, as I can't find the answer on the forum.

Hi,

My problem was a bit different. I am using LCD3. For this the STlink worked fine, but when connected to the motor it always gave error. I used an other STlink and it worked even with 0.5m USB extension cable.
SO some STlinks are better than others and instead of shortening the cable try buying a new one from an other seller.
 
r0mko said:
.....
Does that mean that I can replace a fried 48V controller with a spare 36V one?
Yes. Besides the motor, the hardware is for all versions the same.
The power is controlled by the firmware, so you have to flash the right stock firmware or OSF.
 
Elinx said:
The power is controlled by the firmware, so you have to flash the right stock firmware or OSF.

Thanks! Seems to work fine on 54V fresh battery on my desk with v0.54 FW and 0.6.5 850C. Now gonna assemble everything.
 
izeman said:
bergerandfries said:
I am running stock 52v firmware on the motor and euronau firmware on the 850c, and it also does the same. I usually turn off things by flipping off the switch on my battery, but I will start using the actual power off button on the 850c first and see if that resolves the issue
Now that you mention it: That's the way I normally do it as well. Never powered the system down with the remote button. I always disconnect the battery by turning off the BMS.

I have used a newer 850C on a Bafang mid-drive. Even with the original Bafang firmware, turning off using the buttons, the clock has severe drift and once the main battery is disconnected will only last 12-48? hours before completely losing time.

I didn't pay much attention, but it was annoying for sure.
 
casainho said:
ancan said:
My clock is also completely off every morning, and I turn off using the power button.
So, fails less than 24h? Does it fails like after 1 or 2h? - please test and report.

The issue on GH has been updated (https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/Color_LCD/issues/80), the amount of time the display can keep accurate time looks like it's a function of how long it's been powered on before being switched off.
 
maximusdm said:
bricepapayou said:
Hello guys!
I have the same problem as Aja and Maximusdm.

I have the ST link V2.
When I try to connect to my XH18 unit (through the 6 pin cable, not directly on the unit, recpecting the connection sketch), I have the same message: "please check the swim cables etc..." on the STVP program (STM8S105x4 or X6). My XH18 doesn't switch on when I connect it to the computer.
It is the same when I try to connect directly to the motor (where the 6 pin cable is quite small).

What I have tried so far without success:
- installed the st link v2 driver to my windows 10 computer
- change the wires of the ST lik V2 and connect with small brace tubes the wires to the usb key and 6 pins cable. Those 4 cables are 5cm long

I have a TSDZ2 250W 36V, and a 48V battery (this is also why I need to change the software, because the assistance doesn't work with a 48V battery.
My XH18 worked properly when I connect it to the motor.

Thanks for your help, as I can't find the answer on the forum.

Hi,

My problem was a bit different. I am using LCD3. For this the STlink worked fine, but when connected to the motor it always gave error. I used an other STlink and it worked even with 0.5m USB extension cable.
SO some STlinks are better than others and instead of shortening the cable try buying a new one from an other seller.

Ok I will try with another st link
Thanks
 
ilu said:
bricepapayou said:
Hello guys!
I have the same problem as Aja and Maximusdm.

I have the ST link V2.
When I try to connect to my XH18 unit (through the 6 pin cable, not directly on the unit, recpecting the connection sketch), I have the same message: "please check the swim cables etc..." on the STVP program (STM8S105x4 or X6). My XH18 doesn't switch on when I connect it to the computer.
It is the same when I try to connect directly to the motor (where the 6 pin cable is quite small).

What I have tried so far without success:
- installed the st link v2 driver to my windows 10 computer
- change the wires of the ST lik V2 and connect with small brace tubes the wires to the usb key and 6 pins cable. Those 4 cables are 5cm long

I have a TSDZ2 250W 36V, and a 48V battery (this is also why I need to change the software, because the assistance doesn't work with a 48V battery.
My XH18 worked properly when I connect it to the motor.

Thanks for your help, as I can't find the answer on the forum.

Which wire are you trying to connect your St-Link? You should have your display connected to the motor and both powered with the battery, then you connect St-Link to speed sensor cable. And software-wise follow these instructions https://github.com/stancecoke/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike/wiki

Thanks for your answer.
I connected the st link to the speed cable.
I tried with display/ battery on or off. It doesn't work...
 
bricepapayou said:
Thanks for your answer.
I connected the st link to the speed cable.
I tried with display/ battery on or off. It doesn't work...

Surely the problem might be with the ST-Link-module. But you could also try to first check the option byte settings according to these instructions https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/

Few times I've been unable to update the firmware with same hardware that usually works, but after manually changing the option byte settings to those in the image below and programming only that tab, the regular firmware installation method has worked again. I dont' really understand what causes the problem though.
 

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Hey guys!

I have been lurking on this thread for quite some time and thanks to you have managed to build a nice stealthy e-bike (Picture of the bike)

However after installing the motor and flashing open firmware my max speed is limited to 28 km/h and after that motor doesn't assist even though I have set it to max 99 km/h in the settings on the SW102. (Picture of the settings) (Picture of strava analysis) I read that that max speed for TSDZ2 is 45 km/h. Any Ideas what's wrong?

Secondly, sometimes SW102 doesnt display the battery level correctly. On the latest ride display showed 0% however battery level was actualy 82%

My batter is DIY mini 52v 14s2p,made with Samsung 25R 18650 2500mAh and

v0.7.0 on SW102
v0.56.0 on TSDZ2
 
HugoM said:
Hey guys!

I have been lurking on this thread for quite some time and thanks to you have managed to build a nice stealthy e-bike (Picture of the bike)

However after installing the motor and flashing open firmware my max speed is limited to 28 km/h and after that motor doesn't assist even though I have set it to max 99 km/h in the settings on the SW102. (Picture of the settings) (Picture of strava analysis) I read that that max speed for TSDZ2 is 45 km/h. Any Ideas what's wrong?

Secondly, sometimes SW102 doesnt display the battery level correctly. On the latest ride display showed 0% however battery level was actualy 82%

My batter is DIY mini 52v 14s2p,made with Samsung 25R 18650 2500mAh
About the max speed, you need to learn/understand the technical variables and see what is the limiting factor. Maybe is just you that don't understand the system limitations.

About the battery SOC, again, you need to debug looking at the different battery values like the measured consumed Wh and battery voltage.

I use 52v 14s2p 3500mAh but I can´t pull higher currents but your cells have lower Wh capacity but should handle high currents discharge. Really nice to have small battery packs!! If you use a 36V motor, you could have an ever small and light battery :)
 
Thanks for the quick answer - I sure do need to learn alot more.
This was my first time holding a soldering iron... :D
 
Being able to graph the variables is so nice... I did this for the first time, I had my battery at 68% and decided to connect the charger but kept the 860C display on. Here is the graph of the battery voltage over the charging period -- as we can see, near the end of the charging, it charges slow because the voltage on the cells get's near the voltage of the charger so less and less current flow to the cells and so they absorb less power per time:

TSDZ2-860-C-battery-charging.jpg
 
That's cool!
I can't wait to put the 860C on my handcycle!
As soon as we see reports that it stable and doesn't have any overrun I'll be installing it right away!
Thanks for supporting and using the 860C!
 
jeff.page.rides said:
That's cool!
I can't wait to put the 860C on my handcycle!
As soon as we see reports that it stable and doesn't have any overrun I'll be installing it right away!
Thanks for supporting and using the 860C!
You were right, the 860C display is way better than 850C. I got the firmware running thanks to the help of Electrify Bike or Eco Cycles shops.
 
Apologies if this has been posted previously...

I have an Alfine 11 speed IGH (Internally Geared Hub), and found that gear changes would fail due to the force applied by the TSDZ2 to the drive train (even when I reduced pressure on the pedals while pedalling). I would need to stop pedalling for a couple of seconds to let the motor stop before the hub would change gear. Part of the time taken for the motor to stop was due to motor overun. This of course resulted in loss of momentum and riding rhythm, particularly when ascending a hill and needing to change to a lower gear.

I have now added a 'Gear sensor' that is fitted to the gear cable near the changer on the handlebar and connects to the VLCD5 brake sensor sockets. This works a treat and stops the motor for app 1 second when changing gears up or down.

I bought the version that includes magnetic brake sensors (I have hydraulic brakes). It is now possible to approach an intersection or other potential sticky situation, and apply the brakes to stop the motor while keeping pressure on the pedals to maintain stability where a near 'track stand' is required.

I have also installed the MBrusa version of the open source software v 20beta1 that includes a fix for the motor overun discussed on https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281&start=875

GearSensor_1.jpg

GearSensor_2.JPG

In case you have the same issue here are the details of the item I purchased...
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33060254663.html

1gearSensorl.jpg

Cheers Emma
 
On Aliexpress there's a sale and 860C display from Greenergy Electric Bike store is only 72€ shipped from UK, seems like a good deal for europeans. I only see this option in the app though, not the web version.
 
ilu said:
bricepapayou said:
Thanks for your answer.
I connected the st link to the speed cable.
I tried with display/ battery on or off. It doesn't work...

Surely the problem might be with the ST-Link-module. But you could also try to first check the option byte settings according to these instructions https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/

Few times I've been unable to update the firmware with same hardware that usually works, but after manually changing the option byte settings to those in the image below and programming only that tab, the regular firmware installation method has worked again. I dont' really understand what causes the problem though.

thanks for your feedback.
Can you tell me which parametres are different on your picture? I have read every line, but can't see any difference with my program. Same on the website link.

Thanks
 
bricepapayou said:
ilu said:
bricepapayou said:
Thanks for your answer.
I connected the st link to the speed cable.
I tried with display/ battery on or off. It doesn't work...

Surely the problem might be with the ST-Link-module. But you could also try to first check the option byte settings according to these instructions https://www.eco-ebike.com/blogs/eco-cycles-instructionals/

Few times I've been unable to update the firmware with same hardware that usually works, but after manually changing the option byte settings to those in the image below and programming only that tab, the regular firmware installation method has worked again. I dont' really understand what causes the problem though.

thanks for your feedback.
Can you tell me which parametres are different on your picture? I have read every line, but can't see any difference with my program. Same on the website link.

Thanks


Some of the "Port Alternate Functions" needed to be changed, but if those are okay then I guess your problem is different. Have you tried to also install the original 48V firmware? But it might also be that you need another ST-Link-module :/
 
I know it's been warned about this before, by casainho and maybe others, but I'm putting out a new heads-up for this.
I was careless enough to just mount the rear torque arm and forgot the 2 outer screws closest to crank arm, and after only 3 trips with my new motor, chinesium housing was cracked :( so it is very important all fixing points are used :warn:
Does anyone know if I can buy a replacement anywhere in Europe?
Tsdz2 Cracked.JPG
 
Hasse67 said:
I know it's been warned about this before, by casainho and maybe others, but I'm putting out a new heads-up for this.
I was careless enough to just mount the rear torque arm and forgot the 2 outer screws closest to crank arm, and after only 3 trips with my new motor, chinesium housing was cracked :( so it is very important all fixing points are used :warn:
Does anyone know if I can buy a replacement anywhere in Europe?
Tsdz2 Cracked.JPG
China is already back according to the news. And I am being receiving some things from there as usual.
 
casainho said:
Cristian said:
Cristian said:
I searched around, but i can't find much about play in the axle. It started today, it's about 1-2mm of play. What is the cause? What do i have to replace?
Does anyone know what is causing play in the axle?
The play on the axle, search on Google, YouTube about the axle assembly, bearings, etc. PSWPOWER seels a product related to axle...
Couldn't find any product related to axle play. Probably will gonna wait till something better comes out as messing with the axle play seems to be too much to be asked from consumers.
 
Greetings all from Northern California. New guy here with some BBS02 experience but the TSDZ2 is new to me.
I have installed one with OSF (6.3) on a cargo trike. Easy install which I plan to document for the GitHub pages later this weekend.
However, it is exhibiting some erratic behavior. I have attempted to contact the supplier (Eco Cycles) for over a week now with no response. I have also waded thru this whole thread and the motor technology one to no avail.
First, the clock looses time. This seem to be a mfg flaw and perhaps the display should be replaced? Not critical but annoying. I have a Luna 750c on another bike which does the same thing. Is the 860 display any better in this regard?
Second, the drive works well and silently about one out of 3 startups. 2/3 the time it works but growls rather loudly. Shutting down and restarting a couple of times usually gets it into quiet mode. We are very careful to perform the startup exactly the same way each time (pedal down, no touching) but the behavior seems random.
Third, sometimes the bike will give a short "jerk" right after the startup screen switches to the regular display. This does not seem to be linked to the growling as sometimes it is quiet after, sometimes not. This jerk happens about 1/3 of the time as well.
And last, maybe not a problem, but lately when the display switches from startup to ready it will show "21.5mph" for a brief second before changing to "0mph".
What am I dealing with here?
 
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