Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
gabriel83
1 mW
Hi everyone!
Someone knows how many Ohm have the resistor of Adaptto controller?
330 ohm?
Thanks in advance!
Gabriel.
Someone knows how many Ohm have the resistor of Adaptto controller?
330 ohm?
Thanks in advance!
Gabriel.
I've got a Max-E with the 70v charge coil and an Eaton PSU and plan to pick up a J plug adapter to make use of EV charging stations.
I usually charge at 110v and have the Adaptto set to 13 amps on the input side, but since the charging stations operate on 240v I'm wondering how many amps I should allow it to pull while still keeping everything happy. Thinking 7.5A @ 240v to keep the Eaton from melting into a puddle, but could use a little insightful confirmation.
I usually charge at 110v and have the Adaptto set to 13 amps on the input side, but since the charging stations operate on 240v I'm wondering how many amps I should allow it to pull while still keeping everything happy. Thinking 7.5A @ 240v to keep the Eaton from melting into a puddle, but could use a little insightful confirmation.
sn0wchyld
100 kW
HK12K said:
the eaton should have written on it what its rated amperage out is at 240VAC... if its in a hot environment then probably keep below 70% of that but otherwise up to that should be ok, its not a cheapo china power supply after all. that said, my coil gets warm even at 15A power supply side so probably worth keeping an eye on it if your upping the power significantly.
This is an existing install, however I'll be using the Eaton @ 240v with a j1772 adapter for the first time and wanted to be sure I had my head around it. I hadn't had enough coffee yet that morning when I posted though and had managed to forget about the ac/dc conversion going on inside the psu at the time. That 7.5a would be supply side of the Eaton @ 1800w (before losses) not supply side on the Adaptto.bigbore said:
The Adaptto would need to be at 31 amps on the supply side to max out the Eaton at the voltage it's currently set to. Speakon is good for at least 30amps, supposedly, so I'll probably keep edging it up from the 13amps it's at and keep an eye on overall temps. Probably settle around 25 amps if nothing gets too warm before that point, but we shall see.
graoully
1 mW
4 years later I've just performed the update capacity but now the right gauge ( small rectangles on the right of the display) flashes/scrolls and I got almost no power. is there a way to come back to normal ?graoully said:
graoully
1 mW
HK12K said:
You saved my life. You're right. I have an issue with my motor sensor (stuck to 0°C all the time) and I changed the wrong thermal sensor type. I still have the motor temperature issue to solve but at least I can ride. Any idea why I can't get the motor temperature ?
graoully said:
Hard to say but probably a wiring issue somewhere. If you have a multimeter you can look up how to test the sensor and see if you can't figure out where the communication breakdown is occurring. Could be a bad splice between motor and controller, poor contact in the hall/temp sensor connector, broken connection inside the motor or where the wires pass through the axle, or even something inside the adaptto itself.
Careful riding around without temp monitoring. It's really easy to drive a motor to overtemp and not realize it until it's already cooked.
DasDouble
100 kW
Max -e
is that 0.8v with it still connected to the controller? becuase if the motor hall signals are not connected to the controlelr's internal pullups, there will be essentialy no voltage on the signal lines, as those halls don't output any voltage, they only ground the pullup voltage whenever a magnet passes.
SUNDRIVE
10 W
Black cable ties worked on mine
litespeed
100 kW
I have an odd issue that I’m not sure is MaxE related or motor related. So every once in a while my motor will stutter out of no where. Very few and far between but when it starts sometimes it doesn’t go right away.....sometimes it does.
So today I’m out for a quick fix and all of a sudden it starts to stutter. Didn’t matter which mode or where the throttle was. Temp doesn’t seem to play a part. It’s done it on both hot and cold times. Did it for a couple miles and then stopped. Ran perfect and completely smooth & quite like always. WTF I’m thinking? Is there a chance that I have a hall sensor failing? Is intermittent operation of a hall sensor a possibility?
I suppose I could switch to the second set of halls on my QS 205 3.5T if anyone thinks that would be a good idea?
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom
So today I’m out for a quick fix and all of a sudden it starts to stutter. Didn’t matter which mode or where the throttle was. Temp doesn’t seem to play a part. It’s done it on both hot and cold times. Did it for a couple miles and then stopped. Ran perfect and completely smooth & quite like always. WTF I’m thinking? Is there a chance that I have a hall sensor failing? Is intermittent operation of a hall sensor a possibility?
I suppose I could switch to the second set of halls on my QS 205 3.5T if anyone thinks that would be a good idea?
Thoughts?
Thanks,
Tom
intermittent problems are almost always wiring, either the wires or the connectors or the join between wire and connector pin. can be literally anywhere between the actual components at either end of the connection (like hall sensor at one end, and mcu at the other, or fet on one end and motor phase coils at the other).
i'd start there.
i'd start there.
litespeed
100 kW
Thanks for the idea. I’ll get looking/checking.
Tom
Tom
Does anyone know if Adaptto is still doing repairs? The thermistor responsible for fet monitoring in mine has an intermittent issue which has been becoming more frequent. It will suddenly think it's overheating even though it's unlikely to actually be overheating.
Got frustrated yesterday and ended up intentionally changing the setting for the internal sensor to the wrong value just to keep it from pulling power. Then went for a high speed rip in boost with the batt, phase amps, and OVS maxed. If it had really been overheating before even pulling out of the driveway with barely any throttle input like it had said it was, that should have killed it good... So for sure it needs repairing because riding dirty without a temp sensor isn't a great long term solution.
Better yet, what are the chances a random local electronics repair place could sort this out?
Got frustrated yesterday and ended up intentionally changing the setting for the internal sensor to the wrong value just to keep it from pulling power. Then went for a high speed rip in boost with the batt, phase amps, and OVS maxed. If it had really been overheating before even pulling out of the driveway with barely any throttle input like it had said it was, that should have killed it good... So for sure it needs repairing because riding dirty without a temp sensor isn't a great long term solution.
Better yet, what are the chances a random local electronics repair place could sort this out?
inedible
100 W
That's a really common problem. Apparently moisture gets into the thermistor somehow. As for repairing it, Allex has said recently that Adaptto is still doing repairs. Email shop@adaptto.ru Shipping things to and from Russia is pretty expensive though.
A local electronics repair place should be able to swap the sensor no problem. The sensors are a dollar or two on ebay and are quite easy to replace. They're a tiny glass diode looking component. I found a pic on the russian forum here.
A local electronics repair place should be able to swap the sensor no problem. The sensors are a dollar or two on ebay and are quite easy to replace. They're a tiny glass diode looking component. I found a pic on the russian forum here.
Similar threads
