E-S LMX 64 Bike Owners

bzhwindtalker said:
Our sprokets are custom made in 7075-T6 because 14T is very small and not readyly available.
If the sproket wear becomes a problem we will look into getting some stainless steel ones made.
We had them sepcially made because 12mm wide is not standard and we wanted to integrate the flange into it.
Adam

Thanks Adam,

It'll be interesting to see how the other beta testers sprocket wear goes compared to CDs. Should the need arise for a steel sprocket, it appears Pfeifer Industries can supply, the not readily available, very small 14t pulley bar stock and flanges.
https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/8mm-polychain-gt-8mx-14s-108-steel-bar-stock-p-42.html
 
bzhwindtalker said:
Our sprokets are custom made in 7075-T6 because 14T is very small and not readyly available.
If the sproket wear becomes a problem we will look into getting some stainless steel ones made.
We had them sepcially made because 12mm wide is not standard and we wanted to integrate the flange into it.
Adam
Thanks Adam!
That explains it.

I think I will need that Stainless option and one in 14T and 15T. Hopefully they are not too $$$ though.

How are the other Beta testers front sprockets and belts holding up? Surely I'm not the only one noticing some wear?

Cheers
 
Yes we had them quote that but it was stupid expensive and still needed a lot of machining on our side. 14T does not fit easily in the lathe, it would need a 4T chuck. We will get some quotes for the sprokets in stainless steel.
Adam
 
Thanks Adam.

I wonder if there is any 3D printed options that would hold up ok? ABS? Nylon?
I did notice the noise was lower for the few seconds my PLA sprocket lasted. :lol:
Or maybe even 3D printed metal from one of those new startups? No idea what that would cost though.

As suggested by Brian the Chinese manufacturing company I used to get a bunch of torque arms made previously were these guy's:
http://t-artisan.com/
It was a while back now, but I think I contacted at least a dozen places both locally and in China before settling on them.
I got a few prototypes from different companies but these guy's had the best prices and decent quality. They did forget to add some rust inhibitor when shipping out the final run causing them all to rust, but it was an honest mistake.

You should get in touch with them and ask for a quote.

Cheers
 
Hi Guys

Finally got my bike together. Unfortunately there has been some issues with my battery going missing during shipping. SO i may be with out it for some time.

This was my first ever bike build so it was a pretty step learning curve. With lots of mistake, fortunately none that cost me money

The dropper post i have on this bike is the lowest stack height available for an externally routed dropper, its a 100mm KS Lev and it fits perfectly so that the dropper post butts up perfectly with the top of the seat post on the frame. I noticed that many builds had to raise the dropper post so that the bottom of it did not interfere with the rear suspension. I wanted to be able to drop it as low as possible for downhill, and it feels really great. Really happy with the bike even riding it with out the motor.

Components list:
Roxshox Lyric 180mm Front shock
Cane creek DBCoil IL 180mm rear shock
SRam NX Shiftier
SRAM NX Derailleur
SRAM XG-1175 GX 11 Speed Cassette
KS Lev 100mm Dropper post
Maxxis Minion DHR II 2.6 Rear tyre
Maxxis Assegai 2.6 Front Tyre
Spank 780 20mm rise Bars
Spank 40mm Stem
TRP Gspec EMBT brakes

bike-1.jpg


bike-2.jpg


bike-3.jpg


bike-4.jpg
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Question for those who might know...
I'm running a 2.8" tyre in the rear, and a 2.6" in the front and my flip chip is set to high.

Should I switch it to low?

Cheers

I know why you are doing that combo, but if you reversed the tires and put the 2.8 up front, you would notice an improvement in handing.
 
Rix said:
I know why you are doing that combo, but if you reversed the tires and put the 2.8 up front, you would notice an improvement in handing.
I ended up having to put a tube in my 2.6" front, so not so keen to swap them over tbh as the risk of pinch flats is higher in the rear.

I might try fliping the chip at some point and see how it feels.

Cheers
 
2 minute job CD, so worth experimenting. It will make the geometry slightly slacker (more stable) and turning more responsive with the bottom bracket sitting lower. Slight increase chance of pedal strikes
 
@Simonten Your bike looks very good and I really like the color of your stickers! Mine is raw alu now, but if i where to paint my LMX i think i would choose that color for the frame, and everything else black.
1227889d1544147045-2019-remedy-9ba4577f-9421-4783-9416-a707ee819e2c.jpg


I have never liked the looks of the #219 chain tensioner, wonder if it would be possible to remove a chain link to straighten it out a bit, and maybe add black pulleys instead of the red ones. I think that would look better.
(My LMX64 just works so i have time to think of looks and not just maintenance :shock: )

Regarding that.. I just dented my rim with a Maxxis DHR II 2.8 tire with 2bar/30PSI...
@Simonten what rims do you have? Is it the Halo Vortex?
I belive my original wheels needs some re-tightening now as it starts to feel 'loose'.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xVsgD4SMLoOJp6VO7LQeCmldz-OKC6ue-20PNK6yQeqOmM3J28_3HIFMkoBKoRg9hd_kGxW_1M8GJF3_tLbd1yD9tUoK0tk9uZwB94E3Fq4iYlvx7ev_18VGfLjNlza_lNpRRr1UZCDnQapiV3dXkT3v9doA6v-V7d9Y5wubXuXbFVLuuxAmfquU8QkYyDSB2HCtf7Oia-6Txu-wbKVcz2FXUuHH0ZcsZDOhjHADGnfnQxdZB_4eksNS8yUrB786689K8jIcCM0SNBiqVg2ZfuOW_wOErcrgABE9YGOUXLU-6G0ah4_yNn8dPACgvUslwjET_eyI02kfBEEzBqaAkDquUVGFPJMOOUfcZpN9kDU4eYJJez405V284lwbeA-hhqnnWUnzB9Az2Foicu1mi1T_XlzNFltOZQ0Mi4t6UUlLAvKBUn47MsdLk7G5gkkpjIDgDkG4Wb6EANRfU6LHC5UJ_cVZHyxf1qKAf4j5lvjjZ2Sz5qhcEossca9UY0NbUmdG_wXcqJtE0nJ6JasjSmwwcSHabs43EeHNn2MDkaelT1vrkAOn4bm62TSrXv2dwph_wNf_u746zVIa1DdLBL7qdoyRSAQTz9awE5o8YUm_svzm89R9nWZY616ZIC1dtI0eFntaybooWl2zPqzGFjESVudxo8PDhEw3zpo4AcIsg_GgEUzJ9Dno5dhZpg=w3274-h1841-no?
xVsgD4SMLoOJp6VO7LQeCmldz-OKC6ue-20PNK6yQeqOmM3J28_3HIFMkoBKoRg9hd_kGxW_1M8GJF3_tLbd1yD9tUoK0tk9uZwB94E3Fq4iYlvx7ev_18VGfLjNlza_lNpRRr1UZCDnQapiV3dXkT3v9doA6v-V7d9Y5wubXuXbFVLuuxAmfquU8QkYyDSB2HCtf7Oia-6Txu-wbKVcz2FXUuHH0ZcsZDOhjHADGnfnQxdZB_4eksNS8yUrB786689K8jIcCM0SNBiqVg2ZfuOW_wOErcrgABE9YGOUXLU-6G0ah4_yNn8dPACgvUslwjET_eyI02kfBEEzBqaAkDquUVGFPJMOOUfcZpN9kDU4eYJJez405V284lwbeA-hhqnnWUnzB9Az2Foicu1mi1T_XlzNFltOZQ0Mi4t6UUlLAvKBUn47MsdLk7G5gkkpjIDgDkG4Wb6EANRfU6LHC5UJ_cVZHyxf1qKAf4j5lvjjZ2Sz5qhcEossca9UY0NbUmdG_wXcqJtE0nJ6JasjSmwwcSHabs43EeHNn2MDkaelT1vrkAOn4bm62TSrXv2dwph_wNf_u746zVIa1DdLBL7qdoyRSAQTz9awE5o8YUm_svzm89R9nWZY616ZIC1dtI0eFntaybooWl2zPqzGFjESVudxo8PDhEw3zpo4AcIsg_GgEUzJ9Dno5dhZpg=w3274-h1841-no


Anyways.. @Adam It would be very nice with some news regarding the Silixcon controller now that you have some experience with it. How does it perform compared to the Nucular? I still have some issues with the Nucular when using PAS only. Sometimes it takes several seconds before it engages and starts assisting. I would gladly switch to the new controller, so any news would be much appreciated!
 
I flipped my chip today.
Bike seems a little better handling and I do notice the rear sitting a little lower.

I'll see how it goes, but one thing I have noticed is my saddle bag now hits my rear mud guard hard under full compression. I was touching before, but now it collides with force on big drops. Again, I'll see how it goes, but I don't want to have to buy a new saddle bag so will probably just flip the chip back if it's a problem.

One other thing I noticed is that even my new belt will still slip when the rear is under full compression. It only skips a few teeth, but I wonder if that's due to the worn front pulley or just a thing when under load and fully compressed?

Hey Adam any new's on a 14T or 15T steel front sprocket option?

Cheers
 
Thanks Adam!
I took the 64 out for a decent spin up a local mountain (Mt Tuggeranong) today which was a blast.

DSC_6010.JPG

The bike did well and eat up the very rough terrain and steep hills way better than the last time I did this hill on my Stealth Fighter. Climbing this hill with my fat hub motor Stealth would require me to stop and wait for it to cool down 4-5 times even with forced fan cooling, ferro fluid and hub-sinks.
I did stop once with the LMX though, more as a precaution as temps went to 110C after a long climb, but there was more (and steeper) to come so it would have definitely overheated if I just kept going.

The flip chip in the low setting is not for me though. The belt slipping is annoying, the geometry doesn't feel that much better, my saddle bag keeps smashing into the rear mud guard and the worst part is the pedal strike! I was already doing a bit of pedal strike before, but now it's much worse. I had several really bad strikes that nearly threw me off!
Anyway, needless to say, as soon as I got home I 'flipped it' and switch the chip back to the High setting!

Unrelated to pedal strike thought, I did have my first crash...it was only minor, but down a very steep section with a loose surface. I grabbed a bit too much front brake and came down on the side. Only damage was the handlebars twisted and brake lever a bit scratched, my thigh and wrist will be a bit bruised for a while. :oops: I'm just glad the bike isn't damaged that's all.

The new belt is holding up well so far. Apart from the slip under full compression since I flipped the chip it hasn't been slipping. It has developed the same squeak as my last belt, but I'll hold off adding any lubricants to it this time and see how I go. Hopefully this belt lasts longer as I don't have any more.

Hey Adam, did you see my previous comment? Is there any more news about the steel front sprockets in 14 or 15 tooth?

Cheers
 
Nice ride review CD, got any video of the crash? :lol: Seems like sticking with the chain drive over the belt is best for performance. I know the noise is more, but its reliable.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Thanks Adam!
I took the 64 out for a decent spin up a local mountain (Mt Tuggeranong) today which was a blast.

DSC_6010.JPG

The bike did well and eat up the very rough terrain and steep hills way better than the last time I did this hill on my Stealth Fighter. Climbing this hill with my fat hub motor Stealth would require me to stop and wait for it to cool down 4-5 times even with forced fan cooling, ferro fluid and hub-sinks.
I did stop once with the LMX though, more as a precaution as temps went to 110C after a long climb, but there was more (and steeper) to come so it would have definitely overheated if I just kept going.

The flip chip in the low setting is not for me though. The belt slipping is annoying, the geometry doesn't feel that much better, my saddle bag keeps smashing into the rear mud guard and the worst part is the pedal strike! I was already doing a bit of pedal strike before, but now it's much worse. I had several really bad strikes that nearly threw me off!
Anyway, needless to say, as soon as I got home I 'flipped it' and switch the chip back to the High setting!

Unrelated to pedal strike thought, I did have my first crash...it was only minor, but down a very steep section with a loose surface. I grabbed a bit too much front brake and came down on the side. Only damage was the handlebars twisted and brake lever a bit scratched, my thigh and wrist will be a bit bruised for a while. :oops: I'm just glad the bike isn't damaged that's all.

The new belt is holding up well so far. Apart from the slip under full compression since I flipped the chip it hasn't been slipping. It has developed the same squeak as my last belt, but I'll hold off adding any lubricants to it this time and see how I go. Hopefully this belt lasts longer as I don't have any more.

Hey Adam, did you see my previous comment? Is there any more news about the steel front sprockets in 14 or 15 tooth?

Cheers

have you tried to use shorter crank arms to avoid pedal strike? I think you have 175 now?
 
Rix said:
Nice ride review CD, got any video of the crash? :lol: Seems like sticking with the chain drive over the belt is best for performance. I know the noise is more, but its reliable.
Thanks Rick! No video...had nothing set up this time...which sucks!
I think the belt still has a chance. I think the 15T will make a big difference and if we can get the 14T in steel that will also help.
The noise of the chain is pretty bad...I don't think I could go back TBH. I'm a stubborn guy, so I'll find a way to make the belt work.

BCTECH said:
have you tried to use shorter crank arms to avoid pedal strike? I think you have 175 now?
Haven't tried that yet, but it was in my mind to try next if it keeps happening. I find it is still pretty bad even with the chip on High tbh. I don't remember my crank length, but 175 sounds about right...165 might be on the cards if it keeps happening.
Thing is, I know how to ride...not dropping the inside crank on corners etc...most of the strikes are not on the pedals, but the cranks themselves and not from cornering but large rocks on the trail or the high sides of ruts or holes etc.

Cheers
 
I agree on having more pedal/crank strikes than before. I think standard crank arm length is 170mm and Adam said he would offer 160mm for those who wanted shorter ones. 10mm doesn't sound like much, but maybe it will help.

@Simonten What RS Lyrik fork did you buy, 27.5" or 29"? I'm thinking of changing mine from 27.5" to 29" due to very small clearance with my 2.8" tire, but unsure what it will do with the geometry. I'm riding with the flip chip in high position.
 
We have shorter ones available, but they have a wider Q factor and only the hole is mooved inwards, so they have the same lenght as the 170mm ones.
We are waiting an order for miranda for new 170mm cranks, they could also provide them with shorter length, but with the ongoing situation shippments get delayed a lot.
Regarding the new controllers, they offer better waterproofing and torque sensor response. The display is color and has 5 modes.
It is not user tunable, but it is upgradable via USB.
Best regards, Adam
 
Thanks for the response Adam.

I haven't looked too closely, but are the cranks special? Could I just buy some compatible 165mm cranks and they would work?

If that new controller is not user tuneable, then I'm glad I got my LMX with the Nucular when I did...I love to tinker and push the limits. I think you should still offer both controller options at least for the LMX64 frame kit as there are plenty of others like me who would love to be able to tune and tinker with the controller settings.

Did you see my previous question about the front belt sprocket? Is there any news on the 14/15T in steel?

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
I think the belt still has a chance. I think the 15T will make a big difference and if we can get the 14T in steel that will also help.
The noise of the chain is pretty bad...I don't think I could go back TBH. I'm a stubborn guy, so I'll find a way to make the belt work.

Maybe a roller/guide wheel on the belt at the underside of the front sprocket (4 o'clock) that wraps the belt even more around it might help? It can be a fixed/stationary roller as the belt tensioning is done at the rear sprocket.
 
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