RadRunner from Rad Power Bikes change European Settings

Krakz

100 µW
Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
8
Dear people,
I have a RadRunner from Rad Power Bikes in the european edition. In my opinion, it has the same - bad - display, the same Bafang engine and - I think - also the same controller as the USA Bike.
But in Europe the engine is reduced to 250 watts, the throttle only helps up to 9 km/h and the top speed is only 25 km/h.

Does anyone have any idea how to get the USA settings on the bike?
And: Can you get another display? Unfortunately the normal Bafang cable is not installed. I assume that the controller is not from Bafang either.
 
None of the Rad controllers I've seen/worked with or read about are programmable at all, they have to be replaced with a different one (along wiht matching display, etc) in order to change the behavior. :/

Some of them have a few settings that can be changed in the display with the buttons on the handlebars, but it's just stuff like wheel size, etc. The max power, speed, etc. are not available to be changed. :(

The Rad controllers I've handled are by LiShui (LS), Li Shui, with displays by KingMeter.

IIRC the one Rad bike (rover?) I tried to help someone access via the USB_serial cable and LCD cable port, and the software they were sent (or found, I don't remember), but while it did "talk" to it, it couldn't change any settings.

But you'd have to ask Radpower themselves if this is the case with your particular model.
 
Bolton's kit is a straight plug and play using the Rad style connectors. I agree it would be a good solution. If you were feeling adventuresome, that same 35a KT controller and KT display (of your choice) could be sourced elsewhere for for about half - leaving you with the project of matching the necessary wiring (throttle, brakes, PAS sensor, motor). OR, you could purchase a "kit" that comes with a throttle, brake levers w/cut off switches, PAS sensor, KT controller, and KT display (LCD3 is popular). That leaves you with matching connectors everywhere but the motor, which you would need to figure out on your own. This "kit" isn't a lot more than just the controller and display, and makes a project like this pretty easy for a DIY'er.
 
Hi there,

was wondering if you find a solution to this. I just bought 2 radrhinos 250w and searching for a method to bypass the throttle settings and the downgrated power.
 
This is an interesting thread.

Im right now trying to upgrade a EU Rad Runner to be a little faster and more torque. I choosed to go for a plain Bafang controller + display instead, since the motor is a Bafang. A cheaper way to upgrade instead of Boltons kit. But it has not been easy (for me) and I´m not done yet. Rad Bikes has used Julet and Higo connectors, but the polarity and pins are not the same as the "Bafang standard". So I´ve created some adapters and have switched some poles in cables here and there. I think Rad Bikes has tried to create their own standard to make it complicated to to things like this... This has also been a great learing process for me. The thing is that I did not want to ruin the original cables and wiring. I want to be able to restore the bike back to original easily. Im pretty sure the hub motor on the bike is 500w with a 250w label on it. I have got this confirmed from vendors in the US and others. But not 100% sure. So with a 18A controller the bikes feel more alive. It now runs 36-40 km/h easily. I hope the motor will handle it.

But the bike upgrade project still has two issues left. I hope to get a little help here on the forum.

1. Display works fine, but the speed indication does not work, It says only about 2,5 km/h when riding. All other info is ok. I wonder if this can have something to to with hall sensor wiring? Display works on other bikes (a BBSHD). Please advice.

2. When I´m on PAS level 1,2,3 etc. (low effect) and I´m using the throttle the bike runs perfect and smooth. But if I use the pedals the controller goes crazy and pums out full effect for 1 sek, then calms down and goes back to a normal effect. Can this be something special with (the RAD Bike) PAS sensor? I thought PAS sensors was all the same all over. Or is it the same issue as above? Please advice.

All input welcome!
 

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