Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18
- Thread starter andrea_104kg
- Start date
HrKlev, I have no strange settings, only slightly higher values for "Assist whitout pedaling threshold", "Pedal torque adc offset adjustment", "Motor acceleration", because I like to feel the bike start immediately as soon as I put my foot on the pedal.HrKlev said:
I disabled "Experimental high cadence mode", because I consume less battery and my average cadence is 60, I rarely reach 80.
I always use "Street mode" with a 500W power limit.
There are no resources for this, free memory is 4%, better to keep it available for anything else.Patoruzusos said:
However, "Power assist", "Torque assist" and "eMTB assist", can be set as different driving profiles, depending on the conditions of use.
To connect throttle, brake sensors and / or gear sensor, controllers with an 8-pin connector are usually used.
I don't know Y cables for XH18 and throttle.
For the lights, you need to have a Y connector on the speed sensor, to which the lights are connected.
http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2017-cm-jnqg
Patoruzusos
1 mW
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- Jun 11, 2020
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I see. So many modes... it should be enough. I will try to install the firmware during the weekend and see what they are and how they work.mbrusa said:
I would like to feature request two battery profiles or at least two capacity settings, ie: city/cursing, Pack1/Pack2, That should take less space that full user defined profiles. Does it make sense? It cannot be I am the only one with two different packs.
Are you pulling and merging updates from the original version or going your own way?
In other words, a display independent feature as the one I mentioned above, should I ask here (Tsdz2 firmware open source adapted to vlcd5, vlcd6 and xh18), which is the version I plan to use, or there (TSDZ2 mid drive with 860C, 850C or SW102 displays only)
My Motor came with a Y at the front, one side went to the xh18, the other was open, and the TSDZ2 support explained it could be used for the throttle (they sent me the wrong cable, so I bought and added the throttle)mbrusa said:
Thanks, I will buy one, and disconnect the dynamo hub.mbrusa said:
Cheers!
mbrusa said:
OK, thanks a lot for sharing. I have been out riding and trying to adress it, and I think a lot of it is because my right pedal is almost really unresponsive. When the motor stops like I described in the first "problem" its always the right foot forward. I might buy another torque sensor or try to adjust the one I have. Anyway, I'm getting more used to it and its not a big problem. Still having loads of fun both up and down the trails. The extra cadence I got with the OSF is such a big deal when building momentum trying to get up a difficult spot
Atrihalov said:
From your ini file, I can see you have enabled the "Street mode on startup" in "Basic settings" page. And I noitced that you have not enabled the "Throttle on street mode" in "Assistance settings" page. May be you can try to enable it to see whether it can help.
The max battery capacity is only used to calculate the remaining%. Only one value can be saved in eeprom on shutdown.Patoruzusos said:
You should only change batteries when fully charged, which you can already do. You just need to calculate the% difference when using the one with the less capacity.
The display of the bars is also not sure, if you set the voltage values for one battery, it may not correspond with the other.
Remember that for lights the max output is 0.35A
HughF
100 W
Is there an option in the latest configurator to build a firmware file that will default to eMTB mode on power up?
If so, could someone build me a hex file if I give them a list of options? I do not have a working Windows machine at the moment, so would need to flash from Linux. I understand that even though the configurator is written is Java, it relies on the windows ST tools.
I have seen this in screenshots of the configurator, but I thought that the display would force the motor into standard mode on startup?
I would like to use my spare vlcd6 on my hardtail mountain bike, so would be looking to have this firmware fork on this bike.
If so, could someone build me a hex file if I give them a list of options? I do not have a working Windows machine at the moment, so would need to flash from Linux. I understand that even though the configurator is written is Java, it relies on the windows ST tools.
I have seen this in screenshots of the configurator, but I thought that the display would force the motor into standard mode on startup?
I would like to use my spare vlcd6 on my hardtail mountain bike, so would be looking to have this firmware fork on this bike.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Can anyone describe how easily we can save tested files in the configurator as in the exeprimental file area to the proven file area.
Thanks
Thanks
kallt_kaffe
10 mW
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Copy or move (and possibly rename) the ini-file from C:\TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-master\experimental settings to C:\TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1-master\proven settingsWaynemarlow said:
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Ah, its been so long using windows you forget about old Dos style movement of files. Thanks
kallt_kaffe
10 mW
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Got my STLinkV2 yesterday and have since been trying out this firmware. Still tweaking settings and just did ADC working range calibration. Right pedal measured 130 while left measured 120 so I entered 125 in the configurator. Is that the recommend thing to do or should I go with the lower or higher value?
Also I cannot get the "auto display data with lights on" to work on my display. Manual display of data works if I go into display mode but in set parameter mode with lights on it just goes E02 and the briefly flashes 00.0 a couple of times. It should display battery percentage and voltage as the two first numbers and those are not supposed to be zero. Manually displaying the data shows data as it should. My display (VLDC5) is version 5.0, and allows settings speed limit up to 60km/h instead of the normal 45km/h so I suppose it may work different in some ways compared to older displays. Anyone else seen this?
Also I cannot get the "auto display data with lights on" to work on my display. Manual display of data works if I go into display mode but in set parameter mode with lights on it just goes E02 and the briefly flashes 00.0 a couple of times. It should display battery percentage and voltage as the two first numbers and those are not supposed to be zero. Manually displaying the data shows data as it should. My display (VLDC5) is version 5.0, and allows settings speed limit up to 60km/h instead of the normal 45km/h so I suppose it may work different in some ways compared to older displays. Anyone else seen this?
Patoruzusos
1 mW
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mbrusa said:
I am really confused here. My unmodified xh18 calculates the remaining %, without knowing the capacity. How? Furthermore, I seldom charge to 100% (not always practical), I may even charge it for a few minutes while stopping at a restaurant, and the display always shows the remaining %. And the battery pack has additionally inside a 48v circuit board to also calculate the remaining battery, this time not in % but with 5 leds. it also only knows it is powered by a 48V pack. Con someone explain how this works without knowing the capacity and why this firmware needs it? My understanding says one cannot guess capacity level from Voltage level on Li Ion packs.
As I mentioned earlier, I have a city pack (13s2p) and a touring pack (13s and somewhere between 7p and 9p any way to verify this without tearing the pack apart?). I have a trailer and would like to place on top a solar panel to see if I can go touring with my 2p pack. This will be constantly and simultaneously charged/discharged. Will I be getting accurate %? Running out of power with a trailer in some distant mountain could be disastrous
Waynemarlow
10 kW
13S9P battery pack, is that what the trailer is for, to carry the pack
Patoruzusos
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Waynemarlow said:13S9P battery pack, is that what the trailer is for, to carry the pack
Almost true :lol:
The trailer is a small agile monowheel,
and the battery a rear pack, optically a normal size, until you lift it
But when also carrying large and loaded pannier rear touring bags, the center of gravity becomes too high.
So sooner or later the 9p will land on top of the trailer and be about 20cm lower than my bike wheels axis.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
Are you sure you wouldn't be better off with something with a bit more oooomph, the poor old TSDZ2 must be having an asthma attack trying to pull that lot around.
Patoruzusos
1 mW
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Waynemarlow said:
Maybe. It was (is) my first and only motor so far, bought 4 years ago. But more than this would probably be a legal problem in the EU.
Still it supported first the huge rear bags, later the fully loaded trailer, and more recently pulling my GF with a hand held bungy on difficult occasional moments (she has no motor, so all the load on me, and I pull her only when she gets too slow). Granted, pulling two slim persons, two bikes, loaded trailer bags with heavy camping equipment uphill I can do it only at low speeds
Rest of the times the legal restrictions are my limits, not the motor itself.The only real upgrade since then was a 52T wheelchain, a 11-50T cassette and removing front derailer. Now that I am replacing the blue gear (after 4 years, nylon again), found out and wanted to test what the new firmware could bring to it. And next upgrade/project, as I mentioned, solar power. The battery powers not only the bike but mini fridge, electric blankets, camping lights, phones, laptops, inflatable bed, etc. (I use a 48v - 24v 120W DC - DC converter to power most of the things). I might be pushing it too far, but it works well. and it is modular, so I can keep it as agile or heavy as required.
But honestly speaking, yes, when I bought 2 battery packs (one without cells for the DIY 13s2p) I had already in mind I the option of buying later a second motor kit (same or different depending on the experience) to have both bikes converted. I could move my TSDZ2 to my GF's in the future if you recommend something else for me
For people that have done internal maintainance.
What kind of lubrication do people use and has anyone found a way to reduce the drag caused by the rubber sealant rings on the chainring side?? (It's significantly less without these and the cranks full with gravity, but with them in place much more drag
I've had it apart once to check the blue gear after 1000 miles and regreased inside with lithium grease which sure helped. I was loathed to remove and ride without the rubber seal and find lots of dust or water inside when I next ride. Anyone tried this?
Any tips???
Jim
What kind of lubrication do people use and has anyone found a way to reduce the drag caused by the rubber sealant rings on the chainring side?? (It's significantly less without these and the cranks full with gravity, but with them in place much more drag
I've had it apart once to check the blue gear after 1000 miles and regreased inside with lithium grease which sure helped. I was loathed to remove and ride without the rubber seal and find lots of dust or water inside when I next ride. Anyone tried this?
Any tips???
Jim