My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Additional wheel set for front/rear w/ cassette

I think that was from my list of recommended spare parts. I may have forgotten to point out why I had that on there. It is so I do not have to remount studded tires in winter, and then swap tires again in the spring. Also, in spring and fall, some days I will be biking at lower altitudes where there is no ice and snow, and then the next day I may be in need of studded tires. So perhaps not everyone will be in need of a spare set of wheels.
 
barbarossa said:
and as front light the Supernova M99 Mini 25 pure - that works with the weak light power output of Bafang Ultra - (and Ergon GA-2 grips):
file.php

Very clean looking cockpit! How have you routed the wiring for the display, throttle and light?
 
JLam said:
barbarossa said:
and as front light the Supernova M99 Mini 25 pure - that works with the weak light power output of Bafang Ultra - (and Ergon GA-2 grips):
file.php

Very clean looking cockpit! How have you routed the wiring for the display, throttle and light?

yep, thank you :D
I was a little annoyed by all that cables and wires.
In fact wiring for the display (Eggrider V2 - but of course the original Bafang display would make no difference, its wire is even a little thinner), throttle and light and brake is hidden. I also have made a special cable for the original Magura motor cutoff plugs that makes out of a thin 2 core cable leaving the stem the 2 connectors for the Magura brake levers (but now I have my Shimano Saints - with one brake pressure motor cutoff switch for the rear brake hidden in the downtube). all original plugs and connectors are still there - I didn't modify the original wiring harness and I didn't solder the original wiring harness. but hidden in the fork.

My Frey AM1000 even looks a little cleaner because it has no dropper seatpost cable. :lol:

anyways. I routed all plugs & wires through the front fork and promax stem (had to modify it a little). original promax stem is perfect for the modification.
Main wire is leaving the downtube and then disappears in the fork
wiring.JPG

I replaced the original headset claw by a modified "SUPERNOVA Expander for The Plug":
stem1.JPG

supernova.JPG

assembled you don't see anything:
stem2.JPG
 
barbarossa said:
yep, thank you :D
I was a little annoyed by all that cables and wires.
In fact wiring for the display (Eggrider V2 - but of course the original Bafang display would make no difference, its wire is even a little thinner), throttle and light and brake is hidden. I also have made a special cable for the original Magura motor cutoff plugs that makes out of a thin 2 core cable leaving the stem the 2 connectors for the Magura brake levers (but now I have my Shimano Saints - with one brake pressure motor cutoff switch for the rear brake hidden in the downtube). all original plugs and connectors are still there - I didn't modify the original wiring harness and I didn't solder the original wiring harness. but hidden in the fork.

My Frey AM1000 even looks a little cleaner because it has no dropper seatpost cable. :lol:

anyways. I routed all plugs & wires through the front fork and promax stem (had to modify it a little). original promax stem is perfect for the modification.
Main wire is leaving the downtube and then disappears in the fork

That's amazing, just ordered one of those expanders! I tidied up my wiring as much as I could already, have a 500C display and a throttle hidden in the frame operated by a left hand XT shifter, so was already much better than stock, but this is so much neater again.
I imagine it looks even better on the AM1000 with the downtube cable entry at the bottom closer to the forks.
Any pictures of that Magura cable you made? And do all the connectors reach into the steerer tube, or is the main cable routed through the steerer tube and all the connections made in the stem?
 
barbarossa said:
anyways hard to say. I am 1.85m and have both, Frey AM1000 and Frey EX - both in L. Frey EX seems to be a little smaller or lets say "more handy".

As I'm 177cm I think Medium should suit me just fine in that case


barbarossa said:
Additional Charger
-> anyways, the default charger is 3A. you can use any AliExpress charger with DC plug - I take the C300 (also delivered with Frey AM1000) for charging the Frey EX - with 4A (originally it was set at 5A).


I've looked on both AliExpress and Alibaba for a "4a ebike charger" but the options available are staggering:
42v 4A ebike battery charger, 16.8v 4A charger, 12.6v 4A charger, 54.6v 4A charger, 50.4v 4A.... the list goes on and on. The supplied battery is 48V/14Ah. I don't know which is the better suited charger to be honest. Frey are charging US$35 for a spare


barbarossa said:
original rim set twice
Additional wheel set for front/rear w/ cassette, brake discs & Super Moto-X tires
-> Instead I would build a new set with Onyx Hub or go for the DTSwiss 1700(or 1900) - with SRAM cassette and Magura MDR-Ps.

I was quoted US$350 for a complete wheel set but for a "local" chinese manufacturer. I'll take on board your advice and remove the wheel set from my order. Thank you

barbarossa said:
44t is the biggest possible chain ring for Frey EX caused by the massive rear suspension, gear ratio with 40t was way too short for me:
I asked Cecilia about a 44t to be told "I've asked my boss. That's not possible sorry". As to whether that means they don't have a 4t in stock or she doesn't believe it will fit, I don't know

You've given me awesome help. Thank you barbarossa. I love your cockpit configuration by the way.

I am starting to give serious thought to aborting the whole process though.

I'm no closer to completing the order now than I was 8 days ago when I first opened dialogue.

I'm concerned that if Frey are this slow to communicate when I'm trying to spend almost US$5k with them how bad will they be if I have a serious issue in the future!?!?

Thank you for your time
 
Mr. Doctor,

Cecilia will only do what Ivy tells her, which is to advice a 40T max front sprocket, Ivy has told me the same.
My suggestion is to accept the manufacturers advice and when the bike arrives change it to a bigger one as suggested before.

Frey is always willing to solve warrantee issues and claims, within certain reason, many posters here will agree.

As I said, the Frey AM and EX are designed as eMTB's which means they are intended for torque which is what you need off road.
 
Hi,
I don't think it is that easy and someone just wants to give us a better offroad experience :D

I have the following presumption:

First of all chain ring is a part of Bafang Ultra motor kit. first this kit was delivered with a 44t chain ring by Bafang (I took the original Bafang 44t chain ring of my AM1000 motor for my EX). now it seems to be a 40t chain ring.

Bafang Ultra motor runs best & cooler at high rpms and low torque (low amperes) - resulting to the same wattage as low rpms and high torque. in fact you will kill your Bafang motor and/or it gets very hot when using low rpms and high torque (also applies to Bafang BBSHD motor - where the plastic gear just melts - but Ultra motor has no plastic gear -anymore- !).

If I would be a manufacturer and I would have returns with problems caused by that - what would I do ? = yep, I would provide a smaller chain ring :lol: problem solved. benefit would be lower temperatures and a longer motor lifespan which is not a bad thing at all.

of course it is not nice if you have to ride your Bafang motor at 11 teeth cog and 35 km/h or 20 miles/hour at highest possible rpm giving by the voltage and your human speed of being able to pedal the crank… when you are not offroad.

my solution: I use larger chain rings (44t with Frey EX and 50t with Frey AM) but also higher voltages with my own built batteries (up to 80 volts). right now I am building the 2 new batteries for my Frey EX. my Frey AM1000 is btw problem free with this large chain ring since around 3500-4000km. of course I take care of the right gear at hills etc. without my personal care of choosing the right low gear, yes, I would have destroyed or damaged the motor...
but of course this is not the solution for everyone…

only a presumption…

anyways, yes, you can change it to a nice 44t Wolftooth or RaceFace 130 BCD chainring.

cheers...
 
HerrDoktor said:
barbarossa said:
Additional Charger
-> anyways, the default charger is 3A. you can use any AliExpress charger with DC plug - I take the C300 (also delivered with Frey AM1000) for charging the Frey EX - with 4A (originally it was set at 5A).


I've looked on both AliExpress and Alibaba for a "4a ebike charger" but the options available are staggering:
42v 4A ebike battery charger, 16.8v 4A charger, 12.6v 4A charger, 54.6v 4A charger, 50.4v 4A.... the list goes on and on. The supplied battery is 48V/14Ah. I don't know which is the better suited charger to be honest. Frey are charging US$35 for a spare


I'm concerned that if Frey are this slow to communicate when I'm trying to spend almost US$5k with them how bad will they be if I have a serious issue in the future!?!?

Thank you for your time

thank you for your compliment :)

you would need : 54.6v 4A charger

yep, chargers at aliexpress. I think there are only 2 manufactures with 3-4 models each - only labels are different (depending on your cell group parallel count and voltage you have to choose the right wattage). So it is not really important which one you choose, although C300 seems to run a little cooler in general. for my Frey with around 80 volts I use the Wate 350watts with a Papst fan and for the Frey EX the C300 with 250watts and Noctua fan. I replaced the fans (loudness) and adjusted voltage and amperes.

but hey, to be honest: as a beginner it is probably better to use the original one from Frey and one as spare part for $35. I am very impatient so that 3A/h of the original charger :x … I even did not buy any charger with my EX bike.

"HerrDoktor" seems to be German. I am located in southern Germany/Swiss boarder. You can also send me a PM if you have your bike - always interested in other Frey bikes & riders :)

concerning Frey support I had only positive experience so far. In Switzerland there is also a guy who handles things for Frey, Marcel from near Zurich. Also some German guys buy their bikes there and he has normally always some on stock. that is where I bought my Frey EX during Corona lockdown - stripped down to the parts I really needed. -I don't know if this was legal at this time but who cares- :D

cheers
 
JLam said:
barbarossa said:
yep, thank you :D
I was a little annoyed by all that cables and wires.
In fact wiring for the display (Eggrider V2 - but of course the original Bafang display would make no difference, its wire is even a little thinner), throttle and light and brake is hidden. I also have made a special cable for the original Magura motor cutoff plugs that makes out of a thin 2 core cable leaving the stem the 2 connectors for the Magura brake levers (but now I have my Shimano Saints - with one brake pressure motor cutoff switch for the rear brake hidden in the downtube). all original plugs and connectors are still there - I didn't modify the original wiring harness and I didn't solder the original wiring harness. but hidden in the fork.

My Frey AM1000 even looks a little cleaner because it has no dropper seatpost cable. :lol:

anyways. I routed all plugs & wires through the front fork and promax stem (had to modify it a little). original promax stem is perfect for the modification.
Main wire is leaving the downtube and then disappears in the fork

That's amazing, just ordered one of those expanders! I tidied up my wiring as much as I could already, have a 500C display and a throttle hidden in the frame operated by a left hand XT shifter, so was already much better than stock, but this is so much neater again.
I imagine it looks even better on the AM1000 with the downtube cable entry at the bottom closer to the forks.
Any pictures of that Magura cable you made? And do all the connectors reach into the steerer tube, or is the main cable routed through the steerer tube and all the connections made in the stem?

Hi,
I think you are right. if I think about it the Frey AM1000 really looks a little smarter.
but hey, you also did a lot for a "smarter look" :)

some AM1000 photos :lol:

AM1000_1.JPG

AM1000_2.JPG

am1000_5.JPG

anyways, that is the cable:
plug_Magura.JPG

light cable = goes straight from the motor to the stem and is connected by JST plug to the light. I used a thinner cable (replaced original cable).
throttle & display cable : are connected in steerer tube with main harness
brake wire : the 2 core cable (GND + signal) is connected with 1 HIGO plug in the steerer tube with main harness. this cable (only around 10-15cm) ends in the stem. In stem it is connected to the brake cable (by my self made cable) .

what I had to buy: JST connectors (take much less space than HIGO), HIGO-Plugs (aliexpress, 2x HIGO extension cables), 2x core wire for light and brake cutoff (3 meter). and of course I needed some solder :lol:

so I am a little more flexible with lights and brake sensors.

for all modifications I used a dremel.
be sure to make the hole of SuperNova Expander a little bigger.
I also "dremeled"/grinded the stem to make the hole a little bigger (around 2-3mm). And I made a little more space at the down side of the stem being able to route the cables out of the stem.
After I modified the stem and expander I had to find the right headset spacer combination - not too high and also not to low - my cables should go through the hole without squeezing but of course stem has to have enough area to squeeze the steerer tube. but in the end the modification worked for my 2 bikes without any problems.
no sharp edges for the cables of course (sand paper).

cheers...
 
It’s possible to install any 48v capable light to AM1000.

”Steal” the current from here. Cut holes to the insulation with a scalpel and solder parallel wires that you take up front via the same route with other cables. Remember to insulate the ”stealing connections” well with vulcanizing tape and hot glue. Use as thin wires as the lamp has so there’s no need for a breaker. In case of a short circuit the thin wire will just burn and cut itself within a second.

This system of course requires a separate switch to handlebar if the lamp doesn’t have an on-off switch. I use a motorcycle light switch in my handlebar. Much more powerful lumination and convenient on-off system than with the original Bafang 5v joke. I have even low beam and high beam at my disposal with a press of a thumb.
 

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HerrDoktor said:
barbarossa said:
anyways hard to say. I am 1.85m and have both, Frey AM1000 and Frey EX - both in L. Frey EX seems to be a little smaller or lets say "more handy".

As I'm 177cm I think Medium should suit me just fine in that case


barbarossa said:
Additional Charger
-> anyways, the default charger is 3A. you can use any AliExpress charger with DC plug - I take the C300 (also delivered with Frey AM1000) for charging the Frey EX - with 4A (originally it was set at 5A).


I've looked on both AliExpress and Alibaba for a "4a ebike charger" but the options available are staggering:
42v 4A ebike battery charger, 16.8v 4A charger, 12.6v 4A charger, 54.6v 4A charger, 50.4v 4A.... the list goes on and on. The supplied battery is 48V/14Ah. I don't know which is the better suited charger to be honest. Frey are charging US$35 for a spare


barbarossa said:
original rim set twice
Additional wheel set for front/rear w/ cassette, brake discs & Super Moto-X tires
-> Instead I would build a new set with Onyx Hub or go for the DTSwiss 1700(or 1900) - with SRAM cassette and Magura MDR-Ps.

I was quoted US$350 for a complete wheel set but for a "local" chinese manufacturer. I'll take on board your advice and remove the wheel set from my order. Thank you

barbarossa said:
44t is the biggest possible chain ring for Frey EX caused by the massive rear suspension, gear ratio with 40t was way too short for me:
I asked Cecilia about a 44t to be told "I've asked my boss. That's not possible sorry". As to whether that means they don't have a 4t in stock or she doesn't believe it will fit, I don't know

You've given me awesome help. Thank you barbarossa. I love your cockpit configuration by the way.

I am starting to give serious thought to aborting the whole process though.

I'm no closer to completing the order now than I was 8 days ago when I first opened dialogue.

I'm concerned that if Frey are this slow to communicate when I'm trying to spend almost US$5k with them how bad will they be if I have a serious issue in the future!?!?

Thank you for your time

Cheers to Germany!

I’ve had no issues with Frey regarding warranty-related stuff. Every time something has broken I’ve had the spare part/refund at me within 2 weeks.
 
I’ve had no issues with Frey regarding warranty-related stuff. Every time something has broken I’ve had the spare part/refund at me within 2 weeks.

That's interesting. I did not experience that when I communicated with Frey regarding the problems I had due to faulty QC on the M600 V2 bike that resulted in the irreparable damage to the rear derailleur, including giving them the option to make it right by simply putting a new derailleur in with the next order for 4 bikes. They did offer to sell me a new derailleur, but as the price was 10% more than from Ali Express, I just bought one from Ali instead.

That is also irrespective of the goodwill I demonstrated by not asking for compensation with respect to 1: the issue of my bike arriving new with a significant number of Km's already logged on the odometer, and 2: a front hub sleeve and bearing that had been improperly installed. (these issues have been documented in previous posts).

I wonder if these apparent inconsistencies in post-purchase customer care between what you have encountered, and what I experienced, are due to the rep, and not the company.
 
tsellers said:
I’ve had no issues with Frey regarding warranty-related stuff. Every time something has broken I’ve had the spare part/refund at me within 2 weeks.

That's interesting. I did not experience that when I communicated with Frey regarding the problems I had due to faulty QC on the M600 V2 bike that resulted in the irreparable damage to the rear derailleur, including giving them the option to make it right by simply putting a new derailleur in with the next order for 4 bikes. They did offer to sell me a new derailleur, but as the price was 10% more than from Ali Express, I just bought one from Ali instead.

That is also irrespective of the goodwill I demonstrated by not asking for compensation with respect to 1: the issue of my bike arriving new with a significant number of Km's already logged on the odometer, and 2: a front hub sleeve and bearing that had been improperly installed. (these issues have been documented in previous posts).

I wonder if these apparent inconsistencies in post-purchase customer care between what you have encountered, and what I experienced, are due to the rep, and not the company.

Most likely this is due to my bikes faults been cheap to fix. Upper battery holder, the same connector on battery’s side and a $100 refund for rear hub failure. These were all relatively cheap faults to fix by Frey.

By any means I don’t challenge your story. Sometimes these things are very inconsistent. I find it a bit odd because just by sending a new derailleur goodwill would have been ensured, especially given that you were making a major order. Chinese mindset can be sometimes very different to the Western one...
 
barbarossa said:
"HerrDoktor" seems to be German. I am located in southern Germany/Swiss boarder. You can also send me a PM if you have your bike - always interested in other Frey bikes & riders :)

cheers
Alas, I'm East of Hamburg so just about as far away as we can get within the same country :| I've appreciated your help so far. You've been a huge help. Thank you
 
Sometimes these things are very inconsistent.

This factor might be due to something we probably have not considered much. Again, I'm wondering how much of the quality of the customer care someone gets is due to the rep they have. For example, after reading your comments, I started to wonder if any of my issues actually got passed along to the company, or if my rep perhaps rather than being an advocate for their customer, just handled the issues 'locally', and the company was largely unaware. I have no basis of comparison, because although many of the posts here mention the name of the reps they have, I have never seen my rep mentioned. Perhaps Rep's are assigned based upon the country of origin (Canada in my case).

My rep did have to take Mat leave after our present order was in progress. Since that time, as noted by HerrDoktor, communication has been very hit and miss. The last we heard 2 weeks ago from a system generated message was that 3 of the 4 bikes were assembled, and since then we have heard nothing.

Thanks for the tips on understanding the dynamics of the Chinese business culture. Having lived there for 7 years, and doing business with them weekly since then, I do my best to keep my expectations to a realistic level.
 
tsellers said:
I’ve had no issues with Frey regarding warranty-related stuff. Every time something has broken I’ve had the spare part/refund at me within 2 weeks.

That's interesting. I did not experience that when I communicated with Frey regarding the problems I had due to faulty QC on the M600 V2 bike that resulted in the irreparable damage to the rear derailleur, including giving them the option to make it right by simply putting a new derailleur in with the next order for 4 bikes. They did offer to sell me a new derailleur, but as the price was 10% more than from Ali Express, I just bought one from Ali instead.

That is also irrespective of the goodwill I demonstrated by not asking for compensation with respect to 1: the issue of my bike arriving new with a significant number of Km's already logged on the odometer, and 2: a front hub sleeve and bearing that had been improperly installed. (these issues have been documented in previous posts).

I wonder if these apparent inconsistencies in post-purchase customer care between what you have encountered, and what I experienced, are due to the rep, and not the company.

Flyingfinn earlier said this:

FlyingFinn said:
Frey provided a resolution of 130$. For total costs of 311$ this is more like a joke. Dispute escalated to AliBaba. Now you can see what the real ”Frey warranty” means. At best after thorough negotiations they might offer a partial refund...

The best was in a message above when they offered a 36-hole hub as a replacement in a 32-hole rim :lol:

Receipt of the new hub:
 

I rushed to fix the fault at my local bikeshop since I had a misconception that the shipping of spare parts would take long. Which turned out to be wrong.

Later my in-warranty spare parts have arrived within a week so now I totally understand why Frey would have liked to provide a spare part rather than offer a compensation. I need to admit that would have been a more beneficial arrangement for both of us.

I understand you might be aggravated. I’m just telling how my personal experiences have been lately. By no means I’m not undermining your stories knowing the erratic nature of the customer service. Please don’t shoot the messenger :D
 
Don't know if this is of interest to anyone, but I have found a derailleur hanger that is identical to the one fitted to the AM1000. I was promised a couple spare hangers during the order process, but turns out I misunderstood and they were never part of the deal :?

Nukeproof-derailleur-hanger.md.png


This derailleur hanger is fitted to

Nukeproof Scout 2015-19
Orange Crush 2016-19
Orange Clockwork EVO 2016-19

It's widely available online (got mine from ChainReactionCycles) and might be a good option if you're in a rush to get an extra one.
 
Is there any issue with going tubeless with the Frey bikes. It looks like they all come with Schrader valves which don't stick out very far from the double wall rims. The only tubeless Schrader valves I can find are 40mm. Seems short.
 
barbarossa said:
light.JPG

This is very tidy setup. Well done. :thumb:
What display are you using? Frey DCP18 sometime becomes foggy, this is due to moisture entering it via USB outlet port when rubber plug was not tightly fit. Moisture over time cause failure of flexible PCB manufacturer in China, that connect main PCB to LCD screen. No easy fix, just replace whole display. Can you share your experiences with that display? Where are controls buttons?
You also seem to have twin battery model of the bike, I can see some plugs on downtube. Did you just removed the battery holder and plugged wires back in to the tube?
 
2Slow said:
barbarossa said:
light.JPG

This is very tidy setup. Well done. :thumb:
What display are you using? Can you share your experiences with that display? Where are controls buttons?
You also seem to have twin battery model of the bike, I can see some plugs on downtube. Did you just removed the battery holder and plugged wires back in to the tube?

thank you :D

display is an EggriderV2. perfect solution in my opinion. you can program your motor settings with mobile app - no need for a Bafang programming cable. and there are several other features I like (multiplier of amperage, power profiles, battery type selection = no false information about charge level with 52v batteries, etc.). I like it and it is perfect tiny. display has control buttons: you can activate light, change levels = I has the same functionality as original display.

Concerning the battery connection: I have not finished the Frey EX battery configuration, yet. First I removed the original 2x power modules (for 2 batteries in parallel - that prevent current flowing through batteries connected in parallel if not charged equal) and original battery downtube holder. I will use 2 batteries in series ( 2x 36v 10s5p each) and prepared the wiring - for that reason I shorted the 2 wires at the moment to use the internal battery alone. Frey uses the Hailong battery case, I use a Reention battery case as external battery- but in the end it does not matter - I only think Reention is a little more stable in construction and I modified the Reention holder to use all 4 mounting holes of downtube (Reention Polly version with larger mounting system) - Freys Hailong battery holder only uses 3 mount points.

I bought this Reention battery case from AliEpxress as external battery (Reention Polly for max. 56 cells):
Reention_Polly.JPG

original Hailong battery mounting system connection, of course :DO NOT SHORT THE 2 WIRES !!!! (=parallel battery connection)
cheers
 
[/quote]

Concerning the battery connection: I have not finished the Frey EX battery configuration, yet. First I removed the original 2x power modules (for 2 batteries in parallel - that prevent current flowing through batteries connected in parallel if not charged equal) and original battery downtube holder. I will use 2 batteries in series ( 2x 36v 10s5p each) and prepared the wiring
[/quote]

Thank you for info on EggriderV2.

I can see that you have largest possible chainring on the crank, and also going for 72V battery. Are you chasing max speed?
Ultra with resistor mod should be able to output lots of power, assuming you have two original 48V batteries charged at same level. Why change?
 
2Slow said:
Concerning the battery connection: I have not finished the Frey EX battery configuration, yet. First I removed the original 2x power modules (for 2 batteries in parallel - that prevent current flowing through batteries connected in parallel if not charged equal) and original battery downtube holder. I will use 2 batteries in series ( 2x 36v 10s5p each) and prepared the wiring


Thank you for info on EggriderV2.

I can see that you have largest possible chainring on the crank, and also going for 72V battery. Are you chasing max speed?
Ultra with resistor mod should be able to output lots of power, assuming you have two original 48V batteries charged at same level. Why change?

long story…

First I started with a Frey AM1000 and 48v battery. It was nice but I was missing the thrill. so I did the shunt mod and used 45amps instead of 30amps. It was a totally different bike ! but of course if battery goes down to the mid&lower 40er volts the kick disappears. and of course high amps and low rpms are not really the goal. ok, then I built a 15s5p battery for the AM1000 (63 volts max). it was better and this was ok for me.
Finally I searched for the specs of the controller mosfets and hey: 85volts/120amps. normally you use around 80% of mosfet voltage and based on the Bafang printing on the controller for the caps "100v 1000uf" and "100v 470uf" my suggestion was: this motor was built for around 70 volts. and i finally built a 4s19p battery (I charge it up to 78 volts - borderline, but it was ok so far) and replaced the caps. only problem was the +63v voltage protection of display and the low voltage regulation of controller but I found a solution. and yes: Now it is and was like I hoped it should be. I rode my AM1000 yesterday and it was fantastic, it is fantastic each time I ride. I am always impressed by the power this motor can deliver - it tickles in the stomach area.

then I bought the Frey EX - no mods with 48v battery- and first I thought : is the motor broken ?
wow, I was very disappointed and I felt like riding a snail. First I did the shunt mod. It is a little better now. but hey: no comparison to my AM1000.
so things were clear and I started the conversion. btw this 2 battery idea is genius !!!! (thank you Frey !!!). this time I will use 81 volts and when controller would die I will go for the phaserunner (in combination with my v1.3 motor with hall sensors). I will exchange the motors: Frey AM1000=v1.5 from Frey EX and Frey EX gets the v1.3 motor from my Frey AM1000 (only v1.3 or v1.5 with hall sensors makes sense for phaserunner).

that is the story :D
 
barbarossa said:
2Slow said:
barbarossa said:
light.JPG

This is very tidy setup. Well done. :thumb:
What display are you using? Can you share your experiences with that display? Where are controls buttons?
You also seem to have twin battery model of the bike, I can see some plugs on downtube. Did you just removed the battery holder and plugged wires back in to the tube?

thank you :D

display is an EggriderV2. perfect solution in my opinion. you can program your motor settings with mobile app - no need for a Bafang programming cable. and there are several other features I like (multiplier of amperage, power profiles, battery type selection = no false information about charge level with 52v batteries, etc.). I like it and it is perfect tiny. display has control buttons: you can activate light, change levels = I has the same functionality as original display.

Concerning the battery connection: I have not finished the Frey EX battery configuration, yet. First I removed the original 2x power modules (for 2 batteries in parallel - that prevent current flowing through batteries connected in parallel if not charged equal) and original battery downtube holder. I will use 2 batteries in series ( 2x 36v 10s5p each) and prepared the wiring - for that reason I shorted the 2 wires at the moment to use the internal battery alone. Frey uses the Hailong battery case, I use a Reention battery case as external battery- but in the end it does not matter - I only think Reention is a little more stable in construction and I modified the Reention holder to use all 4 mounting holes of downtube (Reention Polly version with larger mounting system) - Freys Hailong battery holder only uses 3 mount points.

I bought this Reention battery case from AliEpxress as external battery (Reention Polly for max. 56 cells):
Reention_Polly.JPG

original Hailong battery mounting system connection, of course :DO NOT SHORT THE 2 WIRES !!!! (=parallel battery connection)
cheers

The egg is fantastic. what values do you use for 52v battery? Just the default ones?
 
barbarossa said:
2Slow said:
Concerning the battery connection: I have not finished the Frey EX battery configuration, yet. First I removed the original 2x power modules (for 2 batteries in parallel - that prevent current flowing through batteries connected in parallel if not charged equal) and original battery downtube holder. I will use 2 batteries in series ( 2x 36v 10s5p each) and prepared the wiring


Thank you for info on EggriderV2.

I can see that you have largest possible chainring on the crank, and also going for 72V battery. Are you chasing max speed?
Ultra with resistor mod should be able to output lots of power, assuming you have two original 48V batteries charged at same level. Why change?

long story…

First I started with a Frey AM1000 and 48v battery. It was nice but I was missing the thrill. so I did the shunt mod and used 45amps instead of 30amps. It was a totally different bike ! but of course if battery goes down to the mid&lower 40er volts the kick disappears. and of course high amps and low rpms are not really the goal. ok, then I built a 15s5p battery for the AM1000 (63 volts max). it was better and this was ok for me.
Finally I searched for the specs of the controller mosfets and hey: 85volts/120amps. normally you use around 80% of mosfet voltage and based on the Bafang printing on the controller for the caps "100v 1000uf" and "100v 470uf" my suggestion was: this motor was built for around 70 volts. and i finally built a 4s19p battery (I charge it up to 78 volts - borderline, but it was ok so far) and replaced the caps. only problem was the +63v voltage protection of display and the low voltage regulation of controller but I found a solution. and yes: Now it is and was like I hoped it should be. I rode my AM1000 yesterday and it was fantastic, it is fantastic each time I ride. I am always impressed by the power this motor can deliver - it tickles in the stomach area.

then I bought the Frey EX - no mods with 48v battery- and first I thought : is the motor broken ?
wow, I was very disappointed and I felt like riding a snail. First I did the shunt mod. It is a little better now. but hey: no comparison to my AM1000.
so things were clear and I started the conversion. btw this 2 battery idea is genius !!!! (thank you Frey !!!). this time I will use 81 volts and when controller would die I will go for the phaserunner (in combination with my v1.3 motor with hall sensors). I will exchange the motors: Frey AM1000=v1.5 from Frey EX and Frey EX gets the v1.3 motor from my Frey AM1000 (only v1.3 or v1.5 with hall sensors makes sense for phaserunner).

that is the story :D

Thank you for sharing, nice road-map :thumb:

First thought, my Frey EX is twin battery. Potentially 48x2=96V :lowbatt: . Where would that take us? :mrgreen:
Probably not far as motor will be outside it's thermal limits. But hey, I like your idea of series batteries :thumb:
 
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