Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

No problem!

Here's the first ebay listing I found for one: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/263444476296

It's a common enough part that if you have an electronics store in town they'll probably have one.
 
I’ve managed to fry my controller whilst charging. As Moscow is in full lockdown there is no chance of getting it repaired any time soon. Does anyone know somewhere in the U.K. that would repair it for me?
Thanks in advance.
 
A couple of pictures
 

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Had a scary moment a few days ago. On my 3kw hub driven by a midi e, I was cruising along a gravel bike track at about 5km/h with my 3yo on the back in the kids seat, two old ladies in front of me and my boys on bikes on their way to school. The throttle stopped working, then about 2secs later the bike goes WOT. Now I've got about 5secs til disaster....
Regen brake lever didn't over ride the throttle. I've got both XT (180mm rotor) jammed on. Had to let the front off (skidding) , but the motor is too powerful for the rear. Don't forget the old ducks, just got past them and now I'm at about 20kph which is way to fast for the situation and accelerating hard.
Had the mind to let the brakes go and quickly turned off the ignition which required letting go with one hand.
Thank the galaxy the system died and I stopped. A few more seconds and it would have been crashville. Not good with a 3yo on the back.
None around me had a clue... I was shaking away for a bit. :(
The culprit was the unique adaptto threaded throttle connection which had come undone. It has done it once before but never with that result.
Anyone else had similar? Why didn't the e-brake signal overide the throttle which it normally does. Sheet it was scary.
 
worst nightmare!
sounds like you got a short across the trottle wires. it surprises me greatly it did not cut out. iv never had that happen. there is a selection in menu to overide throttle with brake or not. checked that?
 
WOT throttle can happen when the ground of a throttle disconnects, because then the only thing the throttle signal has is a 5v source, and no ground reference, so it floats up to somewhere between 4 and 5v.

If it goes high enough and the controller has an "overvoltage fault", sometimes called "high pedal fault" or similar, where if the throttle goes over the maximum voltage the hall sensor could possibly put out, it shuts down. Unfortunately, the voltage doesn't usually go that high, so no shutdown occurs.

Controllers that use a potentiometer only for input can use a current-sense line on the pot to detect a broken connection, and shutdown when no current flows in a wire, but not many controllers are made that way anymore. (mostly old brushed controllers).

A short in the throttle wires shouldn't cause it, becuase the only two things there are to short to are 5v and ground. A short to ground would shutoff the throttle. A short to 5v should activate the fault protection.



I don't know what would cause the ebrake to not work, unless the ebrake is on the same connector as the throttle, so that the ebrake was also disconnected. Or if the ebrake is wired such that it requires something about the throttle circuitry to operate. Either way, seems like a pretty horrible design flaw, and a good reason to never use this type of controller, unless there is a workaround.
 
that explains it. i remember now i saw a similar thing in testing when the ground was disconnected.
with the adaptto the throttle and brake share the same +5 and ground :|
 
ridethelightning said:
with the adaptto the throttle and brake share the same +5 and ground :|
Click to expand...
Which is fine if they are on separate connectors, but disastrous if they are on the same connector.
 
Help needed.
I have a loose connection causing bms error. I have removed both connectors (one on the bms lead and the other one coming out of the controller). I was wiggling this lead and the error would come and go , so I know it’s to do with the connections.
On the controller side the 4 wires are coloured Red, Brown, Yellow, White.
On the bms side the 4 wires are coloured........ Red, Black, Orange, Brown.
I have connected them as shown above, and I just want to be able to check they are correct as I am still getting bms error, but this time it’s permanent when wiggling. Makes me doubt myself that I have wired it correctly. Is there a wiring diagram or a reference to this wiring anywhere? :(

I just wanted to check, before I open up the controller to see if any wire is loose in there.
 
Hello everyone, i have several different brands of motors that I want to rewire for my adaptto. I want all the wires for all the motors to be be in sync to speed up switching the rear wheel/tire/motor. Does the rotational position of the halls wires correspond to the rotational position of the phase wires? Which halls sensor corresponds to pin 1/yellow of the adaptto halls connector and how does that correspond the the phase wires? Sorry if this is a dumb question but I cant find the answer.
 
Two things :
Thanks AW and RTL, I guess the shared situation is so that you can use the throttle to vary regen if just using a switch for the regen? If I put my regen on full and apply throttle it varies the regen. I think that's for users with just using an on/off switch. I will check the settings to see if there's an option with that.
Definitely no need to repeat that incident!
Secondly.
With the adaptto bms I seem to just get random channels (cell groups) that suddenly go right out of whack. One day it's fine next it's 20-50mv out. After balancing for days it's corrected, then a while later some other group goes down. Once it's corrected, it doesn't happen again so doesn't seem like a sensor connection.
I'm suspecting the bms is draining groups randomly. Battery is physically fine.
Anyone else had that happen? Or know what it is?
Cheers
 
To elaborate, the throttle was partly disconnected, and it stopped working for a sec , so I gave it a touch more, then wot! Supports the voltage floating up to 4v idea.
 
Hello everyone, I have a problem with my adaptto max e. I turned on ignition, the screen lighted up normally. Then the display dimmed to leave only the backlight. Sometimes the display returns but disappears again. Has anyone ever encountered this problem? If so, what to do to repair? Thank you.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
To help out BCTECH after a PM I cracked out my old connectors to match up the Pin assignment on the display connectors. Hopefully this can help out others also.

I don't know if Adaptto are still doing it, but on my Adaptto for some reason they used different colours on both ends of the connector making it very difficult to match up if you remove them without first noting which is what.

DSC_2997.jpg

The connector on the right in the photo above has the Pin assignment as follows:
1=Yellow
2=Red
3=Brown
4=White

The connector on the left is:
1=Orange
2=Red
3=Black
4=Brown

Hopefull Adaptto don't do this anymore...it really is bad practice and doesn't make any sense. :x

Cheers
Click to expand...

Found this from cowardlyduck which answered my question I’ll leave it here for anyone else who needs it. Many thanks to cowardlyduck for posting.
 
Jackrabbit said:
Found this from cowardlyduck which answered my question I’ll leave it here for anyone else who needs it. Many thanks to cowardlyduck for posting.
Click to expand...
There you go....totally forgot about this, but glad that old post helped out. :D

TBH, I feel sorry for you guy's still running Adaptto's. They are a ticking time bomb in terms of keeping them running with Adaptto now a non-existent company and dwindling existing controllers out in the wild. I wish you guy's the best who are still running them. I know if I was, it would be a case of if it keeps working great, but don't expect it to last for ever.

Cheers
 
Jackrabbit said:
Found this from cowardlyduck which answered my question I’ll leave it here for anyone else who needs it. Many thanks to cowardlyduck for posting.
Click to expand...
There you go....totally forgot about this, but glad that old post helped out. :D

TBH, I feel sorry for you guy's still running Adaptto's. They are a ticking time bomb in terms of keeping them running with Adaptto now a non-existent company and dwindling existing controllers out in the wild. I wish you guy's the best who are still running them. I know if I was, it would be a case of if it keeps working great, but don't expect it to last for ever.

Cheers
 
Hello, what is the best email to contact Adaptto now ? I need that they repair my max e.

Cheers.
 
Cowardlyduck said:
Jackrabbit said:
Found this from cowardlyduck which answered my question I’ll leave it here for anyone else who needs it. Many thanks to cowardlyduck for posting.
Click to expand...
There you go....totally forgot about this, but glad that old post helped out. :D

TBH, I feel sorry for you guy's still running Adaptto's. They are a ticking time bomb in terms of keeping them running with Adaptto now a non-existent company and dwindling existing controllers out in the wild. I wish you guy's the best who are still running them. I know if I was, it would be a case of if it keeps working great, but don't expect it to last for ever.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Hi Cowardlyduck

Being one of those people (with 3 bikes with Adaptto controllers) I'm very interested in an alternative with the same feature set.
My absolute number 1 feature is the password protected ECO mode.
Do you know of any alternatives that has this feature?

Thanks!
 
bowers said:
Hi Cowardlyduck

Being one of those people (with 3 bikes with Adaptto controllers) I'm very interested in an alternative with the same feature set.
My absolute number 1 feature is the password protected ECO mode.
Do you know of any alternatives that has this feature?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Not exactly, but...
Nucular has password protect on startup.
A cycle analyst can be setup with a 3 speed switch wired into a hidden reed switch to enable power modes.

That's about as close as you'll get right now.

That being said, Nucular and Grin are still active companies, and both take on-board feedback and are continuing to develop their products.
In-fact, Nucular are looking for feedback right now:
https://feedback.nucular.tech/
You could probably suggest this as a feature. :D

Cheers
 
Cowardlyduck said:
bowers said:
Hi Cowardlyduck

Being one of those people (with 3 bikes with Adaptto controllers) I'm very interested in an alternative with the same feature set.
My absolute number 1 feature is the password protected ECO mode.
Do you know of any alternatives that has this feature?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Not exactly, but...
Nucular has password protect on startup.
A cycle analyst can be setup with a 3 speed switch wired into a hidden reed switch to enable power modes.

That's about as close as you'll get right now.

That being said, Nucular and Grin are still active companies, and both take on-board feedback and are continuing to develop their products.
In-fact, Nucular are looking for feedback right now:
https://feedback.nucular.tech/
You could probably suggest this as a feature. :D

Cheers
Click to expand...

Nucular seems promising. Thanks!
Would the Cycleanalyst be able to have forced PAS and a set power/speed limit on one mode and no PAS and full power on another?
Any recommendations on a controller to go with the Cycleanalyst in the Mini-E power range and size?
 
bowers said:
Nucular seems promising. Thanks!
Would the Cycleanalyst be able to have forced PAS and a set power/speed limit on one mode and no PAS and full power on another?
Click to expand...
not sure if the CA can do that, but the Nucular definitely can.
bowers said:
Any recommendations on a controller to go with the Cycleanalyst in the Mini-E power range and size?
Click to expand...
yes. Grinfinion.

Cheers
 
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