Stealth Bomber type electric enduro purchase

Battosaii said:
I have a EEB frame on order and suspension and other bits. But the drive train is still up in their air I'm doing as much research as possible before deciding on a Qs205, qs273 or a mid drive.
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I have EEB frame too. It can take mid-drive but its really meant for hubs. 205 is good for up to 12 to even 20kw (peak power) and after that you need to go 273. Even with lower power you get better torque with 273 but with cost of the weight.

But you deside! Dont let this guy who really likes his 205 tell you what to do :lol:
 
No feelings here. We help anyone. Experienced builders are not building on this frame, but newbs have to start somewhere. Most of the problems with the EEB frame had been solved by ES members, except for the weight. So it is a good place to find info.
 
MadRhino said:
No feelings here. We help anyone. Experienced builders are not building on this frame, but newbs have to start somewhere. Most of the problems with the EEB frame had been solved by ES members, except for the weight. So it is a good place to find info.
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I dont mind the weight as I have a motor and I don't ride off road really. I'm more of a urban rider. I ride my Esk8 alot and its awesome but I've broken my body too many times, worst accidents were for mechanical failures. Wanted to ride something with a bit more control at 40mph than a skateboard lol
 
ossivirt said:
But you deside! Dont let this guy who really likes his 205 tell you what to do :lol:
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Thanks for telling me what you think. I suppose that I should tell the guy to follow the fools with a 50lbs taxi cab rear wheel that has more power but none of them can use it because the bike rides like sh*t. :roll:
 
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
I like to call it "the welcome wagon" .. (most) everyone new here gets the welcome wagon haha .. :confused: all that really matters is if you like it.. 8)
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Agreed!
 
Battosaii said:
I made a similar purchase but I'm buying it in parts and building it my self. I come from the Esk8 world where we also have hub vs belt drive arguments. In esk8 belt drive or gear drive is the best because it allows you to use a real skate wheel and not a motor covered in a thin layer of PU. The other huge advantage is a reduction ratio on belt set ups.

I have a EEB frame on order and suspension and other bits. But the drive train is still up in their air I'm doing as much research as possible before deciding on a Qs205, qs273 or a mid drive.

If you already purchased the bike just ride it man dont let people make you feel bad about something you already did. Just enjoy it and maybe upgrade as you ride and learn what you want out of the bike.
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I appreciate the post... no worries, I was really half joking when I said that and I have a thick skin... glad to see some people Here see the value in appreciating the ride, the savings and how cool it is that we live in a world where vehicles like this are even possible... not just focusing negatively on the country of origin. Not all companies in China are out to screw people, especially if you take the time to get some references and find the right one.

Are u saying the mid drives rag on the Hub motors and reverse? Lol well I guess I’m on team hub motor for now... they are mad quiet. Really tho could care less what anyone uses. Just don’t use mine! 😬
 
MadRhino said:
ossivirt said:
But you deside! Dont let this guy who really likes his 205 tell you what to do :lol:
Click to expand...

Thanks for telling me what you think. I suppose that I should tell the guy to follow the fools with a 50lbs taxi cab rear wheel that has more power but none of them can use it because the bike rides like sh*t. :roll:
Click to expand...

Hey, I do love my 205, but who’s telling someone what to do? Sounds like you are telling madrhino how to feel lol 😉
 
MadRhino said:
ossivirt said:
But you deside! Dont let this guy who really likes his 205 tell you what to do :lol:
Click to expand...

Thanks for telling me what you think. I suppose that I should tell the guy to follow the fools with a 50lbs taxi cab rear wheel that has more power but none of them can use it because the bike rides like sh*t. :roll:
Click to expand...

Not sure I'm following exactly what you're saying there....But I use every bit of the power, both on road and off. Just got back from a long ride and that 273 had me grinning.
 
To go fast on a EEB QS273 basically you need more of everything..... more amps, more volts, more flux weakening, more brakes,more suspension. Bigger controller, BMS with bypass for discharge. Otherwise you you will never achieve your goals :lol:
 
Synics,
If your are only pulling 8500 watts then it sounds like you are defaulted to speed 2, you should max out at double that. Do you have a 3 position switch installed or is it restricted by the software?

Jonno
 
Jonno said:
Synics,
If your are only pulling 8500 watts then it sounds like you are defaulted to speed 2, you should max out at double that. Do you have a 3 position switch installed or is it restricted by the software?

Jonno
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Is there a way to bypass software , bc my bike has no three position switch and it is only hitting a max of about 6000 watts. I obviously have a different bike than he since he has a different motor, controller, and battery as his but the parts and frame and the assembly of them all are likely from the same factory... I don’t think my controller is programmable... it’s not a sabvoton , it’s just one of the blah silver ones that only does 100A peak.
 
Jonno said:
Synics,
If your are only pulling 8500 watts then it sounds like you are defaulted to speed 2, you should max out at double that. Do you have a 3 position switch installed or is it restricted by the software?

Jonno
Click to expand...

Jonno, this is actually a major disgruntlement of mine right now. Building this bike I was assuming I would be getting speeds in the 60s, and pulling around 12K watts easily. Apparently not so. I think my Sab 72200 is locked. I can't change the field weakening above 50 amps, and I can't adjust my DC current levels in the blue tooth MQCON app. And that's via android and ios apps. But I have another friend with a similar bike, but smaller battery (40ah 120amp bms vs my 49ah 150amp bms) and the 72150, and his draws 12kw and he gets close to 70mph. My bike doesn't seem to be set up to have speed levels, there is not option for that in my display (the new UKC1 display), and if it is stuck in a speed level then I have no idea how I would change that.

Do you know of any software available to unlock it? Is that possible? Because I've seen plenty of people running this controller with 150amps and higher of field weakening with no problem. WHY CAN'T I?!?!?

Also, I see your running a nuclear. How difficult would it be to swap controllers? I just have nightmares of it because of all the electronic problems I've had in the past with these things never seeming to do what they're supposed to do. With the lights, and pedal assist, braking etc...like if one little wire isn't connected properly the entire system doesn't work.
 
Hey u guys....

Pardon my newb knowledge but I need to know something.

Had I done more research I would have definitely upgraded the battery to a higher c-rating (I think mine is = 2c @ 72v 40ah) and the amp rating of my bms Is (100/120A continuous/peak). I really want to pull more amps that I am right now.

My controller is only 100A peak so I’m in the market for a better one like the one of the asi bac models

- Is there any way that I can pull more amps from my current battery?

I asked the manufacturer and they said no, I need to buy a new battery altogether (idk if maybe they just want another sale or what)

Can I just Upgrade the bms and use a better controller?

-Maybe I could sell my current battery and get new one, but I can’t sell it though until I buy the new one bc I need to be able to ride until it comes.

Maybe I could go lipo? I’ve learned a bunch about how to care for them and store then but I still feel might struggle with the build since I’m just beginning to understand electricity.
 
ok can you send pics on your controllers, displays and on/off controls and I'll see what I can do.

The NF24 is about the easiest controller to change to and I would say it's the best on the market at the moment.

Jonno
 
Jonno said:
ok can you send pics on your controllers, displays and on/off controls and I'll see what I can do.

The NF24 is about the easiest controller to change to and I would say it's the best on the market at the moment.

Jonno
Click to expand...

Pretty sure you wouldn't be able to tell me anything I haven't' already messed around with on my controller.
So you prefer nuclear over bac? For what reason? Those nuclears have a 4 month wait time. yeesh. Def cheaper though.
 
As some of the sabvoton/display combos don't work with an app unless you disconnect the white 3 pin connector, I was thinking that this the same principle to how they lock some of the features.


As for the Nucular -
Easy to set up
Easy to tune / customise for your needs
the ability to alter everything without an app or a laptop
Customer service - I think Vasily in attached at the hip to his computer :lol:
Defo worth the wait
I've now got two! :D

My tame test pilot on a QS138 with a NF24

https://youtu.be/9biZOjlL978

My advice is order one -you won't regret it.
 
Jonno said:
My advice is order one -you won't regret it.
Click to expand...

I know it is best. Yet I still wait to have feedback from someone running it 24s. I have a lot of expansive top quality 6s lipo bricks, and not willing at all to butcher them or step down to 18s. Did you try feeding a Nucular 24f with 24s/ 100v hot ?
 
j bjork said:
You may be able to go 95v, but I think it will turn off for protection if you go over. I have only used mine at 90v max.
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Really? Why would a controller marketed for 24s shut off when running 24s?

Kinda made me sad I was planning on building a 24s battery didnt know I'd have to keep it below a certain voltage or the controller won't work...
 
24f not 24s unless I'm mistaken :shock:

I can't find anywhere that says 24s for the controller.
The new bms is 24s but I woulds think that's for 3.7 volt max charge cells.

I use both of mine @ 92v 22s with no problems.

Max voltage is 95.9 for the controller
 
Jonno said:
24f not 24s unless I'm mistaken :shock:

I can't find anywhere that says 24s for the controller.
The new bms is 24s but I woulds think that's for 3.7 volt max charge cells.

I use both of mine @ 92v 22s with no problems.

Max voltage is 95.9 for the controller
Click to expand...
Yep. They spec their 24F 90v, but many are doing so today. We usually can trick them to run 100v hot. That is what I wanted to know, if someone had done it successfully with this controller.
Series of four 6s bricks is so convenient, because 6s quality lipo are readily available everywhere they sell big drones, agricultural or pro photography. And, I like all my bikes running with standardized mount, swap able batteries.
 
Battosaii said:
j bjork said:
You may be able to go 95v, but I think it will turn off for protection if you go over. I have only used mine at 90v max.
Click to expand...

Really? Why would a controller marketed for 24s shut off when running 24s?

Kinda made me sad I was planning on building a 24s battery didnt know I'd have to keep it below a certain voltage or the controller won't work...
Click to expand...

What? I have never seen any recommendations to run a nucular controller on 24s.
From what I have seen they recommend 20s, max 21s. But a few run 22s (so did I, when I had the nuc on the ktm)
 
Jonno said:
As some of the sabvoton/display combos don't work with an app unless you disconnect the white 3 pin connector, I was thinking that this the same principle to how they lock some of the features.


As for the Nucular -
Easy to set up
Easy to tune / customise for your needs
the ability to alter everything without an app or a laptop
Customer service - I think Vasily in attached at the hip to his computer :lol:
Defo worth the wait
I've now got two! :D

My tame test pilot on a QS138 with a NF24

https://youtu.be/9biZOjlL978

My advice is order one -you won't regret it.
Click to expand...

So if I put this in my bike and take out the 72200, will I also need a rerun all my wiring or can it still utilize the wires that the 72200 is using?
 
Have a look on the nucluar.tech site as I don't know your wiring setup.
They are easy to setup - you will need to change some connectors - throttle, on/off etc

Jonno
 
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