GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

flat tire said:

jjstripes said:

I'm not sure what all the complaints are about.

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Stock controller doesn't respond fast enough for racing where you are constantly on / off throttle and need instant response.

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Do you have pictures of the destructed magnets? I managed to blow mine just now, motor was still touchable hot by hand. Stator in good shape. The motor couldn't startup properly even with stock controller so I don't know if it's a factory defect crack that got worse. I still don't quite understand how the middle of the magnet gave way with both sides clamped by the metal cap...


With the bac2000 it pulled and revved like a motherf*ker though :lol:


I wish cyc did a 25% wider rotor version to handle more power, same way we have cyclone 3kw and 4kw. Since the cyc can fit 68mm frame, pf92 frames and above could fit a wider motor easily.

I would assume that this magnet was cracked during assembly.
It would be enough to have a small grain of metal or the magnet being not perfectly matched with diameter of the rotor. The crack can be almost not visible at first.
This is a wrong way to put it all together, but it is fast. You don't need a fixture and you don't have to wait for an adhesive to cure.
Machining undercut under magnets would help, but still crimping magnets with a sheet-metal cage is not the way to go.
I'm surprised this is not happening more often. Maybe once they see a crack they start over and only small group of invisible cracks goes out to the world.

That looks a little funky. Had magnets come loose on two 1,500 edge d.d. glue them back as needed two to make one as the magnets would jump and break magnets brake ez. Oh used jb weld high temp.
Still waiting on 5,000 Watt order June 6 with bac 855.

Ecyclist said:

I would assume that this magnet was cracked during assembly.
It would be enough to have a small grain of metal or the magnet being not perfectly matched with diameter of the rotor. The crack can be almost not visible at first.
This is a wrong way to put it all together, but it is fast. You don't need a fixture and you don't have to wait for an adhesive to cure.
Machining undercut under magnets would help, but still crimping magnets with a sheet-metal cage is not the way to go.
I'm surprised this is not happening more often. Maybe once they see a crack they start over and only small group of invisible cracks goes out to the world.

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The metal cap was a stop gap solution between gen 1 (glue) and gen 2 (glue again), it is referred to as gen 1.5.

Interesting it looks like it came out of the plain on one side.

Because the magnets are so brittle by their nature that looks like a bad way to go maybe they put some glue and that banding ? Angle pressure of the nailer how it's held in place how clean is the room you know . Why does it take 4 weeks to ship ? Are those punch marks holding the band together with the magnets done by hand or does he have a real machine ? Haha. Probably source from India as laborers cheaper than China nowadays

999zip999 said:

Because the magnets are so brittle by their nature that looks like a bad way to go maybe they put some glue and that banding ? Angle pressure of the nailer how it's held in place how clean is the room you know . Why does it take 4 weeks to ship ? Are those punch marks holding the band together with the magnets done by hand or does he have a real machine ? Haha. Probably source from India as laborers cheaper than China nowadays

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They usually avoid snail mail, it takes 2 weeks to arrive after it is set up.

I mean wide don't they have any in stock why does it take 4 weeks for them to put a kit together. Then after 4 weeks two more weeks of shipping or more. Why don't they have any in stock on the shelf in hand ready to ship ?

I mean wide don't they have any in stock why does it take 4 weeks for them to put a kit together. Then after 4 weeks two more weeks of shipping or more. Why don't they have any in stock on the shelf in hand ready to ship ?

When the magnets explode they totally came off in my case. Also if you get it hot enough to remove magnets they should be at least partially demagnetized. That could be a defect.

The case was also extremely hot every time I blew magnets. You can't keep your hand there.

Hi All,

Finally got my battery built and hooked up and wondering if anyone can help me understand the settings in the app a little more.

I have managed to get the PAS set up to some degree, however, it seems to cut out very quickly (brake cut out makes no difference).

Do we have a set of standard values and what each of the settings actually mean? The user manual seems wanting.

For example: PAS pole count for torque sensor version, says standard is 18...are there other options and what do adjustments either way do?

Cadence limit seems weird and to do little (is the limit for when it starts or cuts out??, starting torque limit for PAS seems to do little etc. Many of the settings seem this way.

I have no clue what the gear settings are all about either?!?! I get the mode 1, 2 and 3 etc as coming from a cycle analyst this is intuitive but having PAS gears and throttle gears...help?

So far, I am impressed with how smooth and quiet the set up is (coming from Tangent which is a beast). Torque sensing is my main desire for this build fwiw.

The gears within each mode are very important because it enables you to more gradually increase the power. I always start in 1 or 2 otherwise the chain skips. It's too much power too quick. Once I get going a little I press the button to go to 2nd and then 3rd, etc. There an instruction video on YouTube for how to customize it.

Thank you. I'll have a look see. Not sure why my mind didn't go to youtube already

Found this, pretty useful for sure:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7Nl77NC7jE

For anyone else wanting a little more guidance than the user guide.

A few things missing like:

Battery set up low voltage cut off...is it low voltage for the whole pack or per cell for example?

Motor RPM /cadence setting could do with a little more help like examples...

jjstripes said:

The gears within each mode are very important because it enables you to more gradually increase the power. I always start in 1 or 2 otherwise the chain skips. It's too much power too quick. Once I get going a little I press the button to go to 2nd and then 3rd, etc. There an instruction video on YouTube for how to customize it.

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Are you 100% sure it is the chain skipping? It might be something else, you can record your drive train in slow mo video to find out.

Tommm said:

jjstripes said:

The gears within each mode are very important because it enables you to more gradually increase the power. I always start in 1 or 2 otherwise the chain skips. It's too much power too quick. Once I get going a little I press the button to go to 2nd and then 3rd, etc. There an instruction video on YouTube for how to customize it.

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Are you 100% sure it is the chain skipping? It might be something else, you can record your drive train in slow mo video to find out.

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Not positive, but it feels and sounds like that's what is happening. I'll try your idea of videoing it. What else could it be?

I'd love some guidance on the PAS set up:

What exactly does the "assist start current TD (0.01a) (0-3000) do and what do adjustments in either direction to this do?

What does the "assist power factor TS (0.1/nm) (15-30) mean in real terms?

Power limit seems intuitive.

Sensitivity also.

Cadence threshold too appears obvious but I do wonder why if it is torque sensing it needs a setting for cadence thresholds?

The small round display shows my battery voltage in numerical but has yet to show the red line circle around the perimeter of the display for some reason?

And finally my speedo will not work, it occasionally spits out a number but mostly nothing. The reader on the rear wheel shows a red light when the magnet is right in front of it. Pole count is 1 as per the app and diameter is 660mm ish. Open to ideas on this one.

If anyone can help with the above then thank you!

jjstripes said:

Tommm said:

jjstripes said:

The gears within each mode are very important because it enables you to more gradually increase the power. I always start in 1 or 2 otherwise the chain skips. It's too much power too quick. Once I get going a little I press the button to go to 2nd and then 3rd, etc. There an instruction video on YouTube for how to customize it.

Click to expand...

Are you 100% sure it is the chain skipping? It might be something else, you can record your drive train in slow mo video to find out.

Click to expand...

Not positive, but it feels and sounds like that's what is happening. I'll try your idea of videoing it. What else could it be?

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Hub freewheel skipping or motor being damaged and unable to start with a load from 0rpm (happened to me).

My speedo was behaving the same. It's broken. Ended using my old one from the bafang.

Yes i spoke with CYC not long ago and they advised a faulty batch went out. New ones are available so I'm just waiting on my supplier now.

Thanks

Ok so I have had my first proper 17 mile test run of this set up...very impressed so far. Some throttle but mostly PAS as I wanted it for.

I have asked the following question over on the FB group but figured I'd share them and the response I may get here (feel free to answer any you know the answer too!):

1) PAS settings in Modes menu: Assist Start Current TS (0.01A) (0-3000) sounds simple but makes little discernable difference when altered.....0-3000 what exactly? What does setting 0 do vs setting 3000? Thank you

2) PAS settings in Modes menu: Assist Power Factor TS (0.1A/nm) (15-30) I assume a higher setting such as 30 offers more assistance per NM of effort I apply to the pedals? Is 15-30 the acceptable range allowed or can I set it to more? 15-30 what exactly...15 x 0.1a per NM of effort I apply? Thank you

3)PAS settings in Modes menu: Assist Sensitivity, Assist Start Torque. This seems simple enough in that the PAS will wait for me to apply a set amount of torque to the pedals before initiating help...however...1 or 5 makes little difference...

4)PAS settings in Modes menu: Cadence Threshold the app says this is either when it starts or cuts off...could you explain which of the two it is? Or can it be left at zero if I am relying solely on torque sensing? Thank you

5) Throttle settings in Modes menu. Throttle RPM limit (rpm) (0-1500): if the motors revs to around 9000 (at 60v) why would 1500 be an upper limit or perhaps I am misunderstanding this setting? Perhaps the (0-1500) in brackets are not the parameter limits?

6) Dashboard: this shows my throttle as showing an input current of 0.8v even when the throttle is not in use, I am used to the Cycle Analyst which shows 0v when the throttle is closed and not in use.

7) Dashboard: this shows the motor as drawing 5w when stationary?

8) The battery display shows my battery down to 39% when it is only at 70% discharge as per voltage and the BMS? I have it set as LiIon and 14s in the settings. Thank you

9) Sensors menu: PAS Motor Start RPM (rpm) 100-2560 I am very confused as to what this actually does as its sound simple but there is no difference in the PAS if I set it to 100 or 2560 as the parameters suggest are options?

an answer at last...."pas motor start rpm = The motor rpm that the motor will be running when you initiate the pedal assist. If it is higher, the response is quicker".

10) Sensors menu: Motor RPM/Cadence RPM (rpm) 0-255 same as above...I am not really clear on what this does and what the differences I should notice are between 0 or 255?

"motor rpm/cadence rpm:
This ensures the motor rpm is increased according to the gear ratio as you pedal faster, usually set it at 36 will be good. The default value. If you increase the value, you will need less power to pedal as you pedal faster"


9 and 10 perplex me the most!

I'll post any replies I get here.

Anyone have any thoughts on the various battery cell options and how they work with this motor with the stock controller?

I'm running 52v 8ah Samsung 40T right now, and considering Samsung 30Q and LG MJ1 for my next battery. All 52v, but 60v and 72v are options as well.

My application is commuting on a Trek Marlin. My present setup enables me to get up to about 37 MPH. I wouldn't mind going a few MPH faster. The 8ah battery I have now is enough to easily get to work and charge while I am there so that I can make it home, although I would like more range to help keep the battery from going down below 20%, and that's why I am looking at bigger batteries.

Thanks.

Using vtc6 cells 14s6p. Previously had vtc5a. Impressed with them.

flat tire said:

Leanier said:

cyclone 3000

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Think real hard about this because the cyclone 3000 in my opinion sucks more than twice as hard as the twice as expensive X1. The X1 not only is lighter and more powerful the build quality of the entire assembly is much higher. The stock controller is also better.

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If you were recommending a setup then what would it be? X1 Pro G2 with the ASI? I am getting closer to having a bike to put one on and would like to pull the trigger on a purchase.

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If you were recommending a setup then what would it be? X1 Pro G2 with the ASI? I am getting closer to having a bike to put one on and would like to pull the trigger on a purchase.
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I am pleased with the x1 pro gen 2 with the stock controller. The whole system works well along with the smartphone app. Lots of people on here are pretty negative on the stock controller, but I have no issues with it.

Gen 2 here too and very happy with it. Pas mode is sublime. Throttle is a little like an on/ off switch but i rarely use it so far.

App is good apart from the lack of full details on what the settings all do in detail.

Having electronic "gears" within each of the three modes is damn good too...nice to be able to have a quick way to switch the motor into a zero output mode and back again.