My1020 / Kunray / YaLU 1000 - 2000W motor ?

Thegonzoman7 said:

Let me tell you what man. The 2000w pushes me 50+ mph on a custom chopper scooter that weighs atleast 200 lbs without counting my 159 pound body riding it. So this 2000w little motor on 60v is a beast. Scares the hell out of me it has so much power. Especially during custom install when alignment of sprockets sends chain flapping around a wheel spinning 150 mph! ( learning days) it’s tough as hell too.

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This is awesome. Do you happen to have an exact kv value for this motor ? Seems to vary from one model to another.

qwerkus said:

Does anyone own one of those MY1020 / Kunray / Yalu or whatever motor they are called:

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Super cheap and readily available. They seem to come in 2 versions: a 124mm 1000W and a 134mm 2000W. Both 107mm diameter. Weight is somewhere between 3.5 and 4kg. A version with a 4-bolts foot is also available.

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My question is: are they usable ? Seem like an inrunner, and would love to seem more of the internals, if anyone has pics. Speed probably a bit high for bike use - better for karts or other EVs with small wheels. Maybe a WYE / Delta hack to make them more suitable for ebike use. Or plain rewind.

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Hi. I bought one the other day. I like it for what I paid for it, I guess. $100 for a motor that's bigger than the vaunted {and now discontinued Turnigy 80-100}

Nice weight and seems very powerful.

But I have a problem.........can't seem to get a controller for it.

Any ideas? Cheers.

neptronix said:

Low power to weight ratio on those babies.
Probably not great efficiency.

Of course they're cheap.

with dimensions like that, they'd be my last choice, as you'd instantly get a weight imbalance no matter where/how you mounted the motor.

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I think mine came at 4,4KG which is 9.7lbs in "Old Money" :lol: That is indeed a piece of weight.

I think they look value for money for some cheap fun and most people especially now probably don't have the outlay for the PERM or MARS/ETEK stuff.

Anyways this whole China thing needs rethinking.

Love your location by the way. That's pretty much how I feel about California too

Im helping build up a go cart with this type of motor. It says its rated at 48V 2000W but its outwardly identical to the 60V and 72V versions.

Are there any actual internal differences?
Id like to run it at 60 or even 72V.

Thanks!

I found this 72v 3000w kit from a seller in EU
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001053542520.html?spm=a2g0z.12010612.8148356.30.6b9f6307R9cI7o
I'm building a moped (a 70' garelli flexi) and this kit combined with a 72v battery could work for me.
What is the minimum amps my battery should push to be able to work with this motor/controller?

I have a Kunray 60v 2500w motor I am working with. I have scope traces. I ran a bosch cordless drill. I'm guessing I was around 1000 rpm. I captured the halls and the waveform. I was running a foc sin controller. Didn't work out so well. The traces were not smooth. They were consistent from phase to phase though. Theory is that the controller was trying to make the motor run smooth, but the it couldn't filter the wave. I can either buy a trap controller that doesn't really care about exactly what the motor is doing. I mean that a trap controller may not read back the distortion coming from the trace and just go off the halls so its not trying to filter it.

I had to take the pics a few times. The scope screen frequency was making the traces light or not there at all so in the phone. Thats why they look dark and light.





I didn't snap pics of the scope connected while the controller was running, but I did see the distortion in the trace at the top. The motor stuttered when it got over 1000 rpm. I switched around the phase wires trying to get it smoother and got to 2000 rpm before it stuttered. I could start doing the 36 hall phase combos, but I think I will get a motor that's cleaner and ready to run with the controller (KLS-S).

Hi all ( myfirst post 8)
Have been looking at these motor control kits 3000w 72v My question is are they any good for a conversion in a pit bike,
80cc motor cross bike or do i look for something different as its going to be my first go into the ev world.
Thanks in advanced

I've started building this Pit-Bike-Drift-Trike & Snowmobile! I'm going to use a 72v MY1020 with my Sabvoton SVMC72150 so I can shove 150 amps into it but tune it as needed for 2 very different setups. As a drift-trike the power requirements will be very different to a snowmobile, and of course the handling requirements will be different. Warning, steep learning curve ahead!

This may be a dumb question but do these motors run better in one direction versus the other? This is motor only, ignoring controller settings.

Thanks

Bmr4life said:

This may be a dumb question but do these motors run better in one direction versus the other? This is motor only, ignoring controller settings.

Thanks

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Equal torque and rpm in either direction, wouldn't want to ram it in reverse mind going flat out the sprocket will proberly spin on the motor shaft, there's only an interference oval fit sprocket with a lock nut that is one weak link the other is the magnet armature is just a press fit to the output shaft so over abuse will see this slip on the shaft, I had this problem with full power starts when warm, slippage inside the motor that's hard to fix with out rebalancing the rotor afterwards.

I do think some of my heating problems was to do with the cheap trapiz controller not being tuned for the motor leaving unwanted currents in the core making it get hotter at 4.4kw on a trapize controller compared to 4.4kw vesc in FOC mode, could have proberly tipped the 5kw mark if the mechanics of the motor could stand up to it for that the gearing would need to be less harsh than I was using, I had 4.9-1 where as 8-1 would see better acceleration and eliminate the slippage I saw.

Ianhill said:

Bmr4life said:

This may be a dumb question but do these motors run better in one direction versus the other? This is motor only, ignoring controller settings.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Equal torque and rpm in either direction, wouldn't want to ram it in reverse mind going flat out the sprocket will proberly spin on the motor shaft, there's only an interference oval fit sprocket with a lock nut that is one weak link the other is the magnet armature is just a press fit to the output shaft so over abuse will see this slip on the shaft, I had this problem with full power starts when warm, slippage inside the motor that's hard to fix with out rebalancing the rotor afterwards.

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Thanks. I figured it was related to weight shift (forward CW, reverse is CCW) with my kart. Reverse burns rubber and speed offs strong while forward is far less exciting.

So is anyone this motor with a kelly controller? I'm trying to set my up via the auto identity and that appears to cycle just fine. But when I try to bench run the motor I get high speed stutters with the rpms shooting all over the place. Funny thing is it worked fine when I first hooked it up and tried it with the previous motor setting but I thought it would be better off having the controller learn this actual motor.

Bmr4life said:

Ianhill said:

Bmr4life said:

This may be a dumb question but do these motors run better in one direction versus the other? This is motor only, ignoring controller settings.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Equal torque and rpm in either direction, wouldn't want to ram it in reverse mind going flat out the sprocket will proberly spin on the motor shaft, there's only an interference oval fit sprocket with a lock nut that is one weak link the other is the magnet armature is just a press fit to the output shaft so over abuse will see this slip on the shaft, I had this problem with full power starts when warm, slippage inside the motor that's hard to fix with out rebalancing the rotor afterwards.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I figured it was related to weight shift (forward CW, reverse is CCW) with my kart. Reverse burns rubber and speed offs strong while forward is far less exciting.

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Your getting more power one way than the other ?

It appears so but that doesn't make any sense. That's why I want to try the motor with my Kelly controller.

Bmr4life said:

It appears so but that doesn't make any sense. That's why I want to try the motor with my Kelly controller.

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Flip a phase and the matching hall the motor will spin backwards and give you that power in forward rotation if it's the case. E.g. yellow to green phase and halls then blue to blue on both phase and halls will see it spin in reverse.

Ianhill said:

Bmr4life said:

It appears so but that doesn't make any sense. That's why I want to try the motor with my Kelly controller.

Click to expand...

Flip a phase and the matching hall the motor will spin backwards and give you that power in forward rotation if it's the case. E.g. yellow to green phase and halls then blue to blue on both phase and halls will see it spin in reverse.

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Tried that a while back and nothing charged but the direction. Power going backwards still felt better. Really annoyed with setting up this Kelly controller. Had it relearn my Motenergy motor without issue but these cheap my1020 motors won't act right (I've tried two so far).

Bmr4life said:

Ianhill said:

Bmr4life said:

It appears so but that doesn't make any sense. That's why I want to try the motor with my Kelly controller.

Click to expand...

Flip a phase and the matching hall the motor will spin backwards and give you that power in forward rotation if it's the case. E.g. yellow to green phase and halls then blue to blue on both phase and halls will see it spin in reverse.

Click to expand...

Tried that a while back and nothing charged but the direction. Power going backwards still felt better. Really annoyed with setting up this Kelly controller. Had it relearn my Motenergy motor without issue but these cheap my1020 motors won't act right (I've tried two so far).

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I've found this to be the case. The halls are significantly advanced for one direction, so much so that to get it to run well with any aftermarket controller, I've had to use a hall combination for what I would consider reverse and then program the controller to run in the reverse of that with full power.

On a ASI Conroller the auto tune functionality doesn’t work for this motor. The motor is stuttering but nothing more. Which settings are detected by the the Kelly auto tuning? Perhaps, somebody can give some helpful advices?

I don’t like the fact, that this cheap motor couldn’t be run by an advanced controllers.

Problem is none of these motors are truly identical I've had 3 with differing scooter and they have had physically differing dimensions by 10mm, the amount of turns and KV different, I've only ever run them on trapiz, I've had a simular story with a Dualtron hub motor on a vesc but that was to do with low inductance I'm thinking do these suffer with low inductance too as the vesc can alter the halls timing and even go blind and I still had the same issue arrising missing control of the rotor when releasing the throttle and at start up the motor would spin backwards a step before moving correct direction.

Reviving this thread. These nominal 3000w motors are all over ebay for cheap and I've seen more good than bad about them, so certainly seems worth experimenting with one. Even though these weigh about 10 lbs there's still a roughly 17 lb system weight saving over a hub motor when driving a 16" diameter rear tire through a 7:1 or so chain drive.

Several questions:

#25 sprockets with 25H chain have held up for guys pushing these motors fairly hard?

Does anyone know if there is a physical difference between the 3000w 60v and 72v models?

Do not have a motor in hand yet but is there any reason not to TIG tack weld the magnet armature to the shaft, being careful to keep it balanced?

Someone mentioned putting a layer of Kevlar/epoxy over the magnets to keep them retained. Is there clearance for that and would that have much effect on the emf?

These are sold with controllers. I assume they work reasonably well, although they are large unsightly boxes and difficult to incorporate into a performance custom stand up scooter design... any advice on skipping the halls and running sensorless, and is there a small inexpensive controller that could work? I wouldn't object to giving the scoot a kick to get the motor spinning and I assume that so long as it's direct drive and machine is moving the no-hall setup could work. I'm a mechanical engineer not electrical...

How much cogging resistance have you guys noticed with this motor when pushing your various rides or "coasting" downhill?

Clearly it's best to drill the end caps right off the bat, and I think a thin fan blade could be affixed to the output shaft inboard of the sprocket...

Bump.

Would welcome any input from previous posters re specifics above, but will likely buy one anyway...

qwerkus said:

Thegonzoman7 said:

Let me tell you what man. The 2000w pushes me 50+ mph on a custom chopper scooter that weighs atleast 200 lbs without counting my 159 pound body riding it. So this 2000w little motor on 60v is a beast. Scares the hell out of me it has so much power. Especially during custom install when alignment of sprockets sends chain flapping around a wheel spinning 150 mph! ( learning days) it’s tough as hell too.

Click to expand...

This is awesome. Do you happen to have an exact kv value for this motor ? Seems to vary from one model to another.

Click to expand...

I’ll look it up. I still have that motor and still works. I doubled them up and continued to modify that same ride into a monster for what it was. I’ve moved on since then to a 10kw golden motor that is a absolute animal. I thought those little things had power.... I got my golden used for $200 and I’m throwing insane power at it and have only managed to burn controllers up in the process. I’m talking 40,000 watts, 50,000 watts, and 65,000 watts. You want fun, get ahold of me and I’ll share what I’ve learned so far. A lot. Those small motors are awesome. And very powerful. But get onto something running one of these babies... a Ferrari has no chance. Here’s a pic of the latest build. Still finishing it. The seat in the pic was just temporary till I get my seat cover and base finished . Moped conversion. 10kw.

I've got the 48v with 1800 watt controller from ebay, been running fine all summer.

Does anybody know the number of pole pairs and the rpm/v rating for these?

Any help would be appreciated.