new eZip motor

Status
Not open for further replies.
Sunder said:
You constantly remind me of why the trite truism "The poor pay twice" is well... True.
It does not **have** to be true.

Being intelligent both about the component selection process, and the waiting game for bargains of the selected components

can save a fair bit.

But patience over the long term and realistic expectations are just as important.

I think OP here is just not serious about actually achieving a practical result, just enjoys futzing about with this keep throwing mud see if something sticks approach.

Or something more deep seated, failure being in the comfort zone, succeeding maybe too scary. . .

 
I think OP here is just not serious about actually achieving a practical result, just enjoys futzing about with this keep throwing mud see if something sticks approach.

Or something more deep seated, failure being in the comfort zone, succeeding maybe too scary. . .

Not sure what that all means.

I built a lot of e bikes. most of them I ran many times without failure. I may have had to tighten up a chain here and there or change a tire.

I have spent more down time dealing with flat tires from broken road , potholes and glass than fixing loose chains and bad connections with wiring.

Anyone can buy an e bike assembled or install a hub motor kit. It is not that hard. It is what suits most I guess. The thing is here on ES a lot of members look for more. For me chain drives especially are part of my hobby. I do it for fun like building battery packs and even setting up little charging stations.

I have not just thrown away money. It is more complicated than that. I have learned things and still am learning. I enjoy doing it. I don't actually ride a lot. And right now cant build or upgrade much either. 98% of my stuff is 500 miles away. I need to get it here.

My most reliable bike so far is the one I have here. It is a rear hub. My opinion is a front hub is NOT as reliable as a chain drive but a rear hub motor is more reliable than a chain drive and front hub motor.
The reason I think that is I have two front hub motors that I cant fix. The entire front end shakes and need a bike shop to work on them. Any chain drive I can usually fix in a few minutes with a open end wrench.

I did not waste money ordering new batteries. All I had was old packs that were years old. Old batteries in storage also. And as far as that 1,800W motor. That is something I do not have either. I got a 1,000W brush motor but was taken apart and repaired. I learned how to do that also. It works but not sure how long.

The other brush motors are 750W , 800W and 500W. Not even close the the new motor. All I need to do now is start building big 18650 packs. I built a couple in NY and they worked well for over 6 months. I hooked them up wrong and damaged one but still have a good one. They were 36V - 10S packs. I now need to move on to 60V packs. 16 cells in series * 3 in parallel and hooked to a BMS. I need four of those for 12P and 192 cells. Then I can order the 60V - 2,500W controller and I will be ready for 40 mph. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
How are all the projects going LC?

I'm about to do a bit of custom metal work to mount a disc brake kit on a fork that wasn't designed for it. So I guess we are both going down the ghetto bike route now ;)

Just made me think of you. Hope you're well.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. New packs running great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20-inch-QR-wheelsON-Rear-Wheel-6-7-spd-Shimano-Freewheel-Folding-Bike-Disc-Black/264209281760?var=&hash=item3d8419b2e0

20inchreardisk.png

I just learned something just a few minutes before reading your post. A dual drive hub.

I did not know that was the official name for it. A flip flop hub wont work. I know that because I had to spend 120 bucks on a new Currie wheel to mount the 750 watt gear reduction motor.

The big thing now is I am facing the same problem as I was back when I first started this post. I live upstairs. It was the second floor back then and now is a third floor attic. Way too many steps to lug a heavy dual suspension 26" steel frame bike.

The chances are very good that I might have to wait another year before travel restrictions will allow me to go to NY and get my stuff. I still don't have a car on the road let alone a truck to haul the stuff and a moving company is around 1,600 bucks to load and haul it here.

So I am left with a lot of time on my hands and have enough 36V packs to run the 1,800W brushless motor I have sitting in my hallway for 36 volts and 1,350 watts and 33 mph gearing. I don't have any major hills so can get away with 33 mph 48 tooth sprocket for a 20" wheel.

I spoke with a guy from Kings custom sprockets a couple days ago and can get one which will bolt to a disk brake. However I will still need to get a mountain bike, Something cheap which is smaller and lighter for the stairs. For mounting the motor I will need at least 4-1/2" from the seat post to the rear tire. 5" or more would be ideal. The motor is 4-1/4" in diameter.

I am thinking a 24" bike with disk brakes and pull off the rear wheel and use the 20" rear rim with a freewheel and disk brake for the wheel sprocket. I can run a metal bracket for rear U brakes and the front will keep the factory 24" wheel with disk or U brakes. It will probably be cheaper for U brakes. I don't like V brakes.

I am not using wood to mount the motor. I will use heavy duty steel and get a 3/4" electric drill and steel drill bits at Home Depot. I now have an electric face mask from China. It took about two weeks to come in the mail so since COVID19 only lasts a few days outside the body I guess I am good. I still have my cloth mask and face shield so Wall-Mart and Home Depot are now an option for me.

I always struggled with chain building so might have a bike shop cut the chain but I think I can manage the rest. I don't really want to use #40 chain and defiantly wont use #25 or 8MM. I think standard bike chain would work and Kings custom sprockets have the best deal on standard bike chain sprockets

I can also get a 11 tooth standard motor sprocket from electric scooter parts. I am not sure what is on there now. I might get a 24" bike from Wall Mart . com or e bay. I am looking at around 100 bucks but the most important thing is the 4-1/2 to 5" clearance to mount the motor to the bike frame between the seat post and rear tire.

It might be close to the same weight as I have now but with a 20" wheel on the back and a 24" on the front I might not have to take the front wheel off like I do now to make the stairs. However disk brakes for the front is preferred so I have that option for going up and down all those stairs.

As far as any help with this I am looking for a great deal on a 24" mountain bike preferably with disk on front and quick release and a great deal on a 20" rear rim with disk. Or if they even exist a dual drive 20" hub. It would be cheaper to order a freewheel sprocket from electric scooter parts than dealing with Kings custom sprockets.

I have decided that I am going to wait on a 60V controller and huge 60V pack for 43 mph. When I get my storage I will take the 750W gear reduction motor off the Currie and use it for the 24" bike and put the 1,800 watt brushless on the currie and then build the 60V pack and order a controller and custom sprocket for 43 mph. That is like a year down the road probably.

Thanks and any help will be appreciated.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire burns. 7/17/20

switch.png


Not sure why nobody id posting. Probably because nobody likes chain drives and you all know I am looking for a match for the 1,800W brushless motor.

I installed the meter today and it works. I hooked up the battery and flipped the kill switch and the meter works and I turned the controller on and tested it by lifting the rear wheel off the floor and engaged the throttle.

I flipped the killswitch off and nothing happened. The controller module and meter continued to get power. That is the second switch this year I got from auto zone. The first was arching and turning the controller off and on while sparking. Total garbage. I could run the bike without the switch but prefer not to.

The bike will be down for at least 6 days or when the switch shows up.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
I cannot imagine thinking a breaker with those claimed specs could be of any decent quality at that price
 
I cannot imagine thinking a breaker with those claimed specs could be of any decent quality at that price

Not sure. I know it has to be better than thost cheap 5 dollar switches at Auto Zone.
 
Blue Seas, likes of Bussman & Eaton are known good.

Make sure DC rated, ignore ones designed for AC.

I noted from a thread that these are supposed to be good value

https://www.langir.com/dc-circuit-breaker/

Really fuses are the way to go for circuit protection at high amps.

And for use as **switches** to be used frequently, best to just buy proper switches , few breakers are designed for high duty cycles.
 
It dont give a price.

The breakers I ordered are 40 amps so should work for the e bike I am using now. A 500 watt 36V motor so 13.8 amps is well under the rating.

The next build however will be 1,350 watts @ 36V so will be 37.5 amps.

I might want to order a 50 amp or 60 amp breaker for the new build just to be safe.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Really, the best option would be a cheap relay, controlled by a cheap switch, and a cheap fuse in line for short circuit protection.

No arcing (that you can see or be exposed to anyway) will last a long time, and won't cost much for reliable quality. Except there's a bit of work and skill involved in that...
 
Rassy is the member who told me about these.

They are not expensive. I really do not see why they would not work. He uses them.

They are only a couple dollars more from electric scooter parts than e bay but I got free shipping with e bay. It looks pretty straightforward. either they work or they dont. However the cheap Auto Zone switches seem to work awhile.

Anyway I got a spare I can carry with me just in case. I will go with a 60 amp one for the 1,800W brushless motor build. I still have not found a suitable bike for the motor.

The diameter of the motor is only 4-1/4 but the mounting bracket on the bottom of the motor is almost 4-3/4 so that means I will need a minimum of 5-1/2 clearance between the seat post and back wheel for the mount. I put a 20" wheel on the back of a 24" bike before. I was hoping to go with a 20" BMX bike but may not be possible.

It could take me months to find the right bike for that motor. I have been looking. Also nobody likes chain drive builds here on this post I see as nobody posts about it. That really sucks as I like both hub driven e bikes as well as chain drives.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 

Attachments

  • rassy.png
    rassy.png
    7.3 KB · Views: 1,141
  • switches.png
    switches.png
    64 KB · Views: 1,141
I don't see a reason why this would not work either:

8e0d274114080038a38fe51b906f88b3.jpg


But it's still not the best tool for the job. For a DC breaker to be effective as a switch, you'd want it marked with "Switch Duty", and for the rating to be above the in-rush current, not the maximum operating current.

Better still, prevent in-rush current altogether. Even though you can't see it, the spark will still pit the contacts, and you will start getting unreliable connections after a few hundred to a few thousand connections. It's exactly why I switched from Anderson PP45s to XT90s, then XT90-S (The antispark model). PP45s are designed for 10,000 no-load connections, or 250 loaded connections... 250! For commuting, connecting twice a day, that's 125 days, or less than 6 months!

PP.jpg

Nothing wrong with chain drives. In fact my dream touring bike is a mid-drive attached to a internally geared hub, either with an over-sized chain (to improve longevity), or a belt. I'd like to be able to ride the flats of Amsterdam and the Swiss Alps with the same bike with nothing more than a wipe down at the end of the day. To do that with a hub, you'd need to oversize it, and then adjust voltage and current limits to keep in line with the law, and the chain and derailleur system would require a fair bit of maintenance on the road.

But for a known and repeated nearly flat commute, where I have a workshop at one end (home!), a tiny hub is so much easier and cheaper.
 
latecurtis said:
It dont give a price.

The breakers I ordered are 40 amps so should work for the e bike I am using now. A 500 watt 36V motor so 13.8 amps is well under the rating.

The next build however will be 1,350 watts @ 36V so will be 37.5 amps.

I might want to order a 50 amp or 60 amp breaker for the new build just to be safe.

Thanks.

LC. out.
You (still) neglect to recognize that motor watt ratings are output watts.
If you want reasonable performance, you will need to double the input watts!
For a "500 watt 36V motor so 13.8 amps" you would want a 30A controller, a 40A breaker and >14ga wiring.
For "1,350 watts @ 36V so will be 37.5 amps" you would want a 80A controller, a 100A breaker and >8ga wiring.

I vs O watts.jpg

*Just for comparison, actual "500w" motor, not listed.

And, compare performance at a 6.5% grade.
ebikes.ca simulator
..
 
You (still) neglect to recognize that motor watt ratings are output watts.
If you want reasonable performance, you will need to double the input watts!
For a "500 watt 36V motor so 13.8 amps" you would want a 30A controller, a 40A breaker and >14ga wiring.
For "1,350 watts @ 36V so will be 37.5 amps" you would want a 80A controller, a 100A breaker and >8ga wiring.

The controller for the 500W motor was included in the e bikeling kit. It is a match for the motor but do not remember the amps.

The two breakers I ordered are 40 amps

switch.png


As far as wiring i used a 16 gauge standard AC extension cord but used both , not a single . I did not split it in two. I used both positive and negative wire so not sure what gauge that would be.

Thank you DA for the heads up. Both breakers are for the 500 watt motor. One will be a spare.

I have not ordered a controller for the 1,350W - 36V build. I will try to get a 2 killowatt brushless controller or 2,500W if available.

I will look for a 100 amp breaker for the new build , 36V - 1,350W and can get 8 gauge wire at Auto Zone I think or e bay.
I still have not got the right bike for the new build. Just because I will be using a 20" kids bike does not mean it has to be a cheap one. BMX bikes have to be rugged as kids do tricks on them including jumps and stuff. What brand should I be looking for ? The big thing is the space between the seat post and rear tire. I will need at least 5 - 1/4 inches unless there is a way to mount the motor higher up. That might involve wood though which I did not want in this build.

If anyone has any good ideas I would love to hear them. A light weight 24" frame could work with a 20" rear wheel however 24" bikes are not really common. Thanks for posting DA. and glad to see you are still alive. This COVID19 shit is an ongoing nightmare.

I have been thinking that the currie in storage with the 750 watt gear reduction motor has the left drive freewheel and could take a 72 tooth bolt on sprocket and 8 mm chain for the 1,800W brushless motor. Problem is I have no idea when I will get my storage. The point is I might be waiting almost as long with this new 20" build as I have had no luck so far in obtaining a bike. Whats worse is my lack of tools and the brackets I will need and a drill and bits.

My point is it may be in my best interest to save the 1,800 watt motor for the Currie , a custom 60V pack and a future 43 mph project and just order a 20" hub motor kit for now and look for a decent inexpensive 20" BMX bike. It just makes more sense. I want the most power I can get but am limited to 36 volts. After over two hours of searching online this is the best I can come up with.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-48V-1500W-eBike-Rear-Motor-Wheel-Geared-Threaded-Type-20-inch-29/233642464195?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item36662d13c3:g:EDkAAOSwUCFd20JU&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkai8xCwosGKpC0NWj85e%252FB2MDoIPvXiwN4cwkyw0m5HjWhX5lYWB7Od4dFxmPs%252FkyDRj421OO%252FafyfU7JhkdtAUJfRA%252BxbYRf%252FEpPTfDmh0iiEtdhhSzqptG%252B5cwwVMkV2kQSq4eF4QA%252FkajLnIkNSICIFm3p7mkT3vxdTMlOqG0%252FKb86%252FMb30peqMOzhozwZ85ff2kDZLdVkYsl2TDnSZEEQ%252Ff%252FSQYjnL5QXMkpeGU%252B0Nd77Q9Y59rMBNCdv%252FWhThWUUPeoYB%252BUSjd6393n4SNJdDctFjzimd8O%252BeHp39vwXI52PmoQ5a9jWtjgYv5de1umAXaxrun%252FM6nBkdrYGiGEIBXqOU7Pf20Px%252F6CUGXDYcCBWP9pvgBhixNnRs%252FNvXdlCjkFttzJMHXb34WPVWgobRdbGanLuTTbfs1t9kezdsIKD9a20edcSGsLH%252B9cQ46F7uYXWTqJNHlC%252BzaTpb6BsTgtH6FiWkZbbt6B8kAcvOZvPEaMxA%252BA0q0xOPWaPiIiaEcHsvoDUhBfxAEfdAOoxx0RQ%252FWAB%252BTiSEA%252BtyIdyyiq8i3ja1CiRQ1tnPf%252FqDtDwrAG4HWUOJ8e4LTq5lHjttR41FgcOVHTfb%252Bi88ECj%252BZ15JYTjgDC03neC9e5%252FmtzmQaLzABRgrCOm9XwnilsBVLX6X0FhkfHRIukqPqqSzpp7DTwlZzrEVoiMT13W4hzOmDPCXQG03ltWu5hsFx0vN0KSp8WEIPF9Jtmk9VCFMvqboc1rYuEile38U5oeoICQBJqptJbkNBbKZKWSCg%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A233642464195eea1fcb84c67496ba242d1427838543b%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

download.png

if anyone knows of a better deal my requirements are 20" hub motor. At least 750W and the lowest price possible as not sure we are getting a second round of stimulus checks. I am sick of hauling that heavy 26" steel frame bike up three flights of stairs. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo fire Burns.

I got the circuit breakers today. I hooked one up and it seems to work well. First time I ran the bike with the power meter.
Not sure if it is accurate. It is a 500 watt motor and am getting readings over 700 watts and never even used full throttle.

Also it is very difficult to see when it is bright outside. How can a 500 watt motor put out 600 and even 700+ watts ? I also noticed that during take off at say half throttle I am getting crazy readings like 680 watts and even 747 watts I think it was. It makes no sense.

I think at about 10 to 15 mph on flat it was about 300 to 400 watts. That makes sense I guess. I did not even go up any steep hills. Not even a little steep. A small short hill read over 700 watts and went down about 100 to 150 watts when pedal assisting.

Please let me know what is going on. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
No such thing as a 500w motor. The motor will draw as much power as either the controller will let it, or there is torque to resist.

Impossible to tell you what is going wrong without seeing your setup. If it uses an external shunt, it's possible you have the wrong one. Or it's entirely possible that you are genuinely using that much power.

Also, 50% throttle doesn't always mean 50% current. Controllers often advertise themselves as either a speed controller or a torque controller. As you might expect, a speed controller will feed as much current as it needs to get you to your request speed. A torque controller will feed you a current proportionate to your throttle position, regardless of what speed you get as a result.
 
I will need to shoot a video and post it. I will need a camera and a cloudy day or late afternoon to do it so you can see the meter. Oh. I will also need a camera as the one I used to use is still in storage.

Probably not happening any time soon.


Thanks.


LC. out.
 
LC, what Sunder said is correct. If you purchase a 500 Watt kit (motor, controller, throttle, etc.) the 500 Watt rating means that is the continuous Wattage that the system can use without overheating, etc. A good example is my current 48V 750 Watt Bafang BBS02. The controller can be set to any maximum Amperage you wish, up to 25 amps. I use a 48V Ping battery which delivers over 50 Volts during the majority of its usage. The relationship between Volts, Amps, and Watts is V * A = W. so in my case 50V * 25A = 1,250W, Way more then the 750 Watt rating

I actually set the maximum Amperage at 15 amps and thus I normally see a maximum Wattage of about 750W.

I installed an identical system on a friend's tadpole trike and he was bogging down on hills, even when he used his lowest gear and applied pedal power. He weighs about 100 pounds more then me, so I reset his controller to a maximum of 20 Watts. On our first ride together after that we had to go over a fairly steep hill that I had never had any problem with, but he previously had to push his trike up the hill. This time he was able to easily ride up the hill.

Hope all this helps a bit. The manufacturer of your controller rated it at 500 Watts continuous, but the maximum Watts is usually about 50% more. It may or may not be listed on the web site. I think your Watt Meter is probably reasonably accurate and that there is no problem.

Also, just for the record I've seen a fair amount of criticism about using a DC circuit breaker like I recommended. While it is true that the "spark" still occurs within the circuit breaker, the contacts are made to take it and you should get years of service from the breaker. I started using them about 15 years ago, before ES even existed, and have never had a failure. In addition to my own, I have installed systems on about a dozen friends and relatives bikes and trikes and I always include a DC circuit breaker.

And, be sure to check the instructions on your Watt Meter. The original Watts Up meters specifically stated that the meter should be booted up before the load is applied. I ignored that once and everything seemed to work fine. For A Few Weeks, then the meter went crazy and never worked again. So depending on my choice for wiring things up I now either use two circuit breakers so I can first power up the meter and then the controller, or else I only run the negative wire through the meter and use a secondary wire to the positive side of the meter with any little toggle switch so that I can power up the meter first.
 
Actually ... a motors watt rating is the motors watt output at the rated volts and rpm.
Typically it will use (Input) 200%+ watts at full throttle till nearing rated rpm.

Input (electrical) watts is divided into output (mechanical) watts and output (thermal) watts.
Best power output might require 600 watt input for 500 watt motor output with 100 watt wasted as heat.
Same motor, up a hill (or during acceleration), might require 1000 watt input for 400 watt motor output with 600 watt wasted as heat.
 
I miss my video camera. From what I just heard from you guys there probably is not anything wrong with the meter then. There must be a considerable amount of heat watts when starting out from a dead stop. The fact that it is a small motor would explain that. Wattage drops from say 680 to 480 or less after reaching cruising speed. I take it easy on the motor and is why it has lasted me as long as it has.

The circuit breaker is obviously way superior to the tago switches from Auto zone with two failures now in less than a year. I will be ordering many more breakers. looking at least an 80 amp for the 1,800W brushless motor. 100 amp if possible. All my e bikes will have a circuit breaker hopefully someday.

I already know from experience that heat will destroy a motor so if I hear the motor under heavy load going up any hill that has a noticeable incline I pedal assist and there have been many times I just got off the bike and pushed it a block or two to get to the top.I also know there are plastic gears inside the motor so am aware of the limitations.

This is the reason I have got many miles and years out of the little e bike ling motor. After all a little exercise wont hurt me as long as I don't over do it. It is also why I was building e bikes with two motors. One for each wheel. Two separate controllers and battery packs will make the bike much more efficient up hills as all that heat is split up so not as damaging.

I miss my storage. I have so many motor and possible combinations. My favorite is a front hub and a rear chain drive. I went up a very steep hill at 36V and 750W with my Currie and the 750 watt gear reduction motor. If there were a watt meter I bet it would have been pulling close to 1300 watts easily even with my pedal assist. The hill was about 6 blocks and considerable incline.

I attacked the hill like DA said. I got about a block start on the flat so was going about 25 or 26 mph and did active pedal assist. Now if I were to add the 1,000 watt front hub motor Sunder sent it would have made the hill with no pedal assist from a dead stop. For a road bike going on long trips that would be the ideal set up. A 50 mile trip with hills fairly steep 1/4 to 1/2 a mile up. I would run at least 8P and 36V to each motor. A minimum of 160 - 18650 cells to share the load and the heat and two motors and controllers.

Unfortunately i really do not know if I will even live long enough to ever see my storage and all those unfinished and finished e bikes again. COVID19 is killing us all. The mutations will probably finish off the human race. The vaccine has the capability to kill millions if not billions when it mutates in the human body.

I have two electric masks and another on the way and wear a face shield but from what I am hearing on info wars with Alex Jones it is only the beginning. The Globalists and Chinese communists in the UN promoting new world order want to murder at least half of all Americans in under 5 years and are behind the race wars in the USA.

The chance I will be around even a year from now is highly unlikely. I also found a knife stuck in my door frame downstairs coming back from my bike ride yesterday. I live in a not so good neighborhood and am probably marked for death. I have no way to move as all I have is my e bike. I was unable to acquire a motor vehicle.

I have money but have moved so many times in the past that am just sick of even looking. And even if I did find something how would I get all my stuff there. It seems like an impossibility. I did extensive research on the geographical area of the western NY area around where DA. lives seems kind of nice if there was only a way to get there.

Jamestown looks ok and Olean NY area as well as Niagara falls. Buffalo is just another nightmare city. The areas around it seems ok though. I met a kid from Olean NY last year here in Canton. I talked to him a couple of times for about a half an hour. The last time was on a bus about 8 months ago. His name is Timmy Reitz. He is on my face book and lives here in Canton somewhere. I don't associate with anybody though due to COVID19. I don't ride buses or take cabs and try not to talk to anybody any more so I don't get sick.

Anyway I am glad to hear from all of you.

Thanks .

LC. out.
 
If is a crappy knife ... not a very serious threat!
Nice knife? Consider it a gift ... nice neighbor.

Stop watching conspiracy nuts!
Limit you political intake to Stephen Colbert, Seth Meyers or Trevor Noah. Will help you have a much better outlook on life!
 
Looks like your buddy Timmy was involved in assault and felony assault, in Olean area.
 
Looks like your buddy Timmy was involved in assault and felony assault, in Olean area.

I figured he was shady.

However I am no one to judge with my criminal background back in the 80s and early 90s. I just grew up a little. :lol:

The first time I met him was at the WallMart parking lot here in canton. He was holding a sign that said homeless please help me.
I told him he looked a little like Ricky on Trailor park Boys. He took it as a compliment. lol

His story was his car broke down and was towed. He came from Buffalo with a girl and the car broke down in Cleveland and the girl returned to buffalo. Something about the gas tank. It was probably stolen. I gave him a buck or two and told him where the city mission was. I think it was about a year ago. As far as a buddy . lol. He admitted to using Meth and was involved with some girl and a tweaker ran the place he was staying at. A tweaker is a meth head. He told me that. I did not know what it meant until then.

I told the kid that drugs are no good and better off just drinking some beer and smoking some weed. He said he wanted to return to Olean. I said if I found a car I would give him a ride there on the way to Schenectady to get my storage so he gave me his name and found him on facebook.

I friend ed him on facebook but we never communicated. I saw him a few months later on a bus. He said he found another place to live and had a camera he was trying to sell. It was very large and complicated. Nothing like my little cannon in storage so was not interested. He said he was getting stuff at the goodwill store and flea markets and selling the stuff for like 300% profit.

Yea right ? LOL.

Basically people like that are a dime a dozen here in Canton. I drink beer and have a medical cannabis card. I don't tell people like that where I live. :lol:

The few friends I have that I actually hang out with live in Schenectady NY.



Thanks.

LC. out.
 
latecurtis said:
I did extensive research on the geographical area of the western NY area around where DA. lives seems kind of nice if there was only a way to get there.
Don't you be thinking that life is all peaceful around here!
We had a virtual race riot during a BLM demonstration, some people actually yelled at each other when a horn got blown at demonstrators walking in street.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top