TWDay72 said:
Unless I'm missing something, the manufacturer did not intend this to be a repairable part.
None of these things are "intended" to be repaired; they build them all as throwaway items, like most stuff these days.
But it doesn't mean you can't repair ti...just that it's a PITA.
The circuit board, pictured, is a ways from a user-friendly serviceable part.
At least this one has a PCB--many do not, and one must take extreme care not to break off hall sensor legs and such. So you have it easier on this one.
The wire exists the motor shaft at 90 degrees on the right side of this picture. Not impossible, but the existence of 3 identically sized white wires (of a total of 9 wires) makes reassembly awkward at best.
I only see one white wire. Where are the other ones, and what do they go to?
What I see is six thin wires, the Red (5v), Black (ground), white (speed sensor), and the Yellow, Blue, and Green hall sensor wires.
Then there are three thick wires, the Yellow, Blue, and Green phase wires.
So...while it will be a PITA to unsolder the phase wires, the other six on the PCB are easy as long as you keep track of which color is on which pad now, and put them back the same way.
What I would usggest on the phase wires is to cut them somewhere else other than at the present splice points, say, right at the end of the present jacket that comes out of the motor axle (just past the 90 degree point)...but *only* cut those there, not any of the thin wires, which would be left at their original length to be resoldered as they are to their original posistions on the PCB.
The 9-pin connector (6 pins around the inner edge of the connector), also pictured, is a molded piece that almost had to have come preassembled with the cable. I can't think of a way a manufacturer could have assembled that connector after wiring the motor.
This "overmolding" is the normal way waterproof connectors are installed, done at the cable factory. I was just hoping that yours was not one of those, as it would've made it easier for you.
YOu can, of course, just cut and splice everything outside the motor, it just won't look as neat when done, and is a bit more difficult to waterproof.
As long as you have enough cable, then on the outside cut-splice, I would reocmmend staggering the splices so that none of them overlap each other. this makes the resulting cable splice area "thinner" in crosssection, and it also makes it much less worrisome to reinsulate the splice points from each other so they can never short.