Hi, I have recently bought myself a 100A sabvoton controller from HalloMotor. After a connecting the battery, motor and throttle I am able to throttle up the motor to a high rpm. While the hub motor is still spinning, I can apply more throttle and there is no problem. As soon as the motor stops spinning it becomes unresponsive to further throttle inputs and I get Hall Fault Error 13. When I turn the bike off and on again, I am once again able to throttle, but as soon as the back wheel stops spinning the same problem persists. Would anyone be able to help me with this issue?
Sabvoton Hall Fault Error 13
- Thread starter BebMan123
- Start date
I have tested the hall sense wires. I have 4.98-0.69V, 2.98-0.02V and 2.98-0.02V. Obviously one is different from the other two. While testing I noticed that, after a power reset, I could trigger error 13 by spinning the hub. My first thought was that perhaps the controller noticed the inconsistent voltages from the halls sense wires and put out an error, ostensibly it can only start showing the error when power is not being applied.
If the halls don't go up to 5v, but *are* going down to 0v (or close to those), then the most likely thing is a poor connection to the controller, since the 5v is actually provided by the controller, on the hall signal lines themselves. The halls just ground that whenever they activate.
amberwolf said:
Of course, how silly of me, the motor itself is not generating the voltage.
The thing is I do not believe my wiring to the controller is compromised. My motor has two sets of hall sense wires and both give the same voltages. The motor worked with my previous controller (cheap Chinese one) along with my friends old 80A sabvoton and did not produce a hall fault. I'm still at a loss as to what could be causing this; I plan to try another motor this weekend to see if it is motor specific.
If it hasn't been tested, you can't know. If it never worked right, you should test everything that hasn't ever worked. If it worked before, you can save that to test last, but just because it worked before doesn't mean it works now.BebMan123 said:
Troubleshooting is a step by step process, and the very first step on anything with wires is the connectors and wiring, because almost every single time there is a problem, that's where it is.
The controller only has one set of wires, right? And one connector?
Wiring faults cause this, most of the time.
Ther'es other stuff it could be too, but that's the first thing to check, and it is quite simple to do compared to other things.
Your choice what to do, but you came here and asked....
I've got the same error and are troubleshooting everything. Sometimes ground has been compromised through the frame from another wire I think (small balance wire or thick high voltage charge wire with voltage smashed between battery and frame) and my problem is mostly showing the hall error after 15-20 minutes of running.
When it shows it can be at a low speed mostly just juddering the motor and I have to stop as my throttle input won't help me out of the situation. Or at a pit stop doing a short errand to just get back and its a no start just throws hall error after turning the wheel 1 centimeter.
What I will do without any order:
Dubble check wiring coming from controller to motor halls
Dubble check wires from controller to touch the "metal frame"
Dubble check inside of controller to se hall cables or anything different
Dubble check fastening of think phase wires
Check voltages and signals coming from the hall sensor from the motor side with chinese hall sensor tool
When it shows it can be at a low speed mostly just juddering the motor and I have to stop as my throttle input won't help me out of the situation. Or at a pit stop doing a short errand to just get back and its a no start just throws hall error after turning the wheel 1 centimeter.
What I will do without any order:
Dubble check wiring coming from controller to motor halls
Dubble check wires from controller to touch the "metal frame"
Dubble check inside of controller to se hall cables or anything different
Dubble check fastening of think phase wires
Check voltages and signals coming from the hall sensor from the motor side with chinese hall sensor tool
leffex said:
That probably indicates a heat-activated issue. So it's probably inside the motor. Could be anything from a hall that's overheating (for it's particular specs), to a wire that's disconnecting (or has damaged insulation and is shorting against something else) when above a certain temperature (which could also of course disconnect or short under vibration, etc).
What do you measure on the hall power, ground, and signal wires when you are having the issue, vs when you are not?
amberwolf said:
I will test when I can but I'm not like in the dessert but time is running after me!
Your guess may be true. Heat may affect my performance alltough not yet made any significance effects on it so why its not the highest probable cause on the list. However it does take longer for the error to occur but we also know two errors can play at us at the same time but different instances (I feel sad beacause it may cause the highest performance to decrease more and more and also become unreliable after longer run times)
thanks mr Amberwolf. Looking forward to solve this one... sad I can't just open the motor right now. I must wait a few months untill i can take a peka boo as that's when the time is back on track.
