I need help, as i dont have anywhere to ask, and no one to help me

What do you think will 8 speed cassette fit ? https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/cassette-26-inch-48v-52v-1500w-rear-wheel-electric-hub-motor-kit-1179.html
 
Davidcroatia said:
What do you think will 8 speed cassette fit ? https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/cassette-26-inch-48v-52v-1500w-rear-wheel-electric-hub-motor-kit-1179.html
Click to expand...

That appears to be the standard kind of freehub body that takes an 8, 9, or 10 speed cassette, or a 7 speed cassette with a 4mm spacer behind it.
 
Btw i have news, seller has came and connected right way wires and i paid him alot, but this is how wires go
 
So 5 small hall wires yellow on yellow , from controller green on a blue in motor , blue from cont on green in hall , red on red , black on black , ohase wires controller blue on green motor , and yellow on yellow , and green from controller on blue mottor
 
The color combination is different with various controllers and motors. Finding the proper match is something we have to do often. After doing it a few times, it gets easy. It is a simple elimination procedure. I do it in 10 minutes now.
 
Yep i paid 55 euros my not knowledge and drilling in holes etc will be 55 euros , but atleast i havee knowledge now, and alsso plaanning to buy leaf motor kit
 
Davidcroatia said:
So that is one of the best 1500w motor kits ?
Click to expand...

Leaf Bike makes one of the best performing hub motors available now, for a surprisingly low price. Mechanical quality is better than the average of hub motors I’ve seen, though that’s not saying much. I have one, and it’s been good for me.

I don’t know enough about their cassette freehub body to say whether it’s any good. For this reason, I would probably choose the freewheel kind.
 
Crystalyte H3525 is quality, especially from https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors.html?limit=all
From ebikes.ca, you can get the motor built with a high quality rim and good quality Sapim spokes built by a professional wheel builder, who takes care lacing together a wheel .....


..... and not some factory line assembler over seas who's only thinking of lunch or supper on the slave hours and slave wages. Who knows what spokes they are using or nipples.
The Leaf 1500W is good too, just buy the hub motor itself, then buy a good rim, good spokes and lace it up well.
 
markz said:
Crystalyte H3525 is quality, especially from https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/motors.html?limit=all
Click to expand...

Sorry Markz
I agree that Justin does add some quality control and guarantee to this crap motor, but the H series it is the worst motor ever produced by Crystalyte. I know because I have had more than a dozen in two years. A third of them were not centered, badly wobbling brand new. The wiring exit off the axle was rubbing and cutting the wires if it was not mod. The axle twisted or broke easily...

But it could be fed much more power than other similar size motors at that time. That is why we were using it despite its horrible manufacturing quality. All of those that I purchased ended in a garbage can, some of them within a week.

The best motor from Clyte was the X54. Heavy, but powerful and durable. I still run one of them after eight years.
 
They parse and return those that are wobbly. They do the mod to the axle wiring exit.
They honour the guarantee.

But, it is still a H motor. It is so far from the Leaf motor... there is no possible comparison other than weight and size.
 
Davidcroatia said:
how i diagnose malfunction, i give up
Click to expand...

Well you need an understanding of how to troubleshoot and diagnose the problem. First, check the battery voltage with a digital multi-meter. Go out and buy a cheap one, do it. Check voltages of the battery pack. Crazy Aussie Dave Jones of Youtube channel EEVBlog always says "Thou shalt check voltages" though no one really knows his extent of religious devotions.

Always always always check the wiring for any damage, check the connectors too to see if they are connected or have in some way degraded and are not making a connection.

Did you crash at the end of your 15km or did you drop the bicycle when you came to the ice cream parlor?
 
My guess is battery does need to be charged, long enough to balance the cells that had been left on a shelf for a while.
 
Motor doesnt want to spin , i think controller died, seller has sent me the picture how to program the controller
 
Before you mess with the controller, disconnect the battery from everything for a few minutes, then plug it into the charger. While it's charging, carefully check the main power connectors and the phase wire connectors for signs of heat or arc damage. Then inspect your Hall sensor wires and throttle wires to make sure they're in good condition and fully plugged in, and that all the terminals are seated all the way into the plug housings.
 
Your controller might have cut for LVC (low voltage cut-off), or the battery BMS for the same reason, or cell group low.

Before blaming the controller, first make sure to have a fully charged and balanced battery.
 
MadRhino has got it right, its probably a battery that is way out of balance, and has one grouping or one cell that just brings the rest of the pack down.

Controller Low Voltage Cutoff, is set at different voltages for different controller voltage ratings, having a 36V(10S) battery, fully charged is 42V, but a 36V LVC for a controller is 31 or 32V. A 48V battery, 13S fully charged is 54.6V, but a 48V controller LVC maybe 40V. So your 36V battery, being that its 10S and fully charged would be 42V, hooked up to a 48V controller with a cutoff of 40V, you'd have 2V of usage, which would correlate to 15km range.
 
And the controller doesn’t light up?

Or the controller starts but the motor won’t spin?
 
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