Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
I twisted a knob on my fancy forks, and I liked it.
E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
nice pics!
@1ABV, yes it does look meaty.
@1ABV, yes it does look meaty.
I’m having trouble charging my battery I bought a new charger but im still unable to charge my b52 it has a small amount of charge 0% but still turns on I have checked power is coming from the charger and the battery just it won’t charge anyone have any ideas or advice?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rix
100 TW
Ben Purdy said:
Check the inside portion of your XLR plug port on the Bomber, see if the plastic is melted around it. If thats the case, You will need to either replace the XLR. This happened to me, and I ended up getting rid of the XLR and converted the charger and battery charger wire to Anderson XT 6mm bullet plugs, they are identical in size to the phase wire connectors on the motor and controller. If you go this route, remember to use the female connectors on the bike, and the male connector on the charger.
Could be a few things..
Like rix said check the xlr port, use a multimeter and check for continuity.. move the wires around when your doing this. Mine went out and you couldn’t see any issues from the outside..
Have you checked the charger? Hook it up to a multimeter check for output if it’s not reading it may need a draw to read. Mine didn’t need a draw I could read The output.
If all that checks out test the battery w a meter.
And finally you many need to “jumpstart” the battery. if it’s too low to take a charge the bms may be trying to protect it. Or you may have a bad bms. Jump starting can be dangerous.. if your not comfortable take it to a shop.
Like rix said check the xlr port, use a multimeter and check for continuity.. move the wires around when your doing this. Mine went out and you couldn’t see any issues from the outside..
Have you checked the charger? Hook it up to a multimeter check for output if it’s not reading it may need a draw to read. Mine didn’t need a draw I could read The output.
If all that checks out test the battery w a meter.
And finally you many need to “jumpstart” the battery. if it’s too low to take a charge the bms may be trying to protect it. Or you may have a bad bms. Jump starting can be dangerous.. if your not comfortable take it to a shop.
I'm the owner of a stealth FUTR bike, I know it's not exactly a "Stealth bike" but I have a new youtube channel about my 17kw bike, there is plenty of action and fast riding showcased, check it out if you can :wink:
Well, It’s been well over a year in the making, with countless hours filming and editing, finally here is the first video showcasing my bike,
In the end I finished with only 8 minutes of video, however now that I have Made a YouTube channel I will likely be uploading frequently, mostly with shorter clips and more vlog style videos (still need to make a walk around video), so please subscribe if you can. There will be more
enjoy, and let me know what you think,
ps. sorry the speedo and stuff on my phone is hard to see, youtube compression killed the quality
https://youtu.be/8O7Ect8Duh4
Well, It’s been well over a year in the making, with countless hours filming and editing, finally here is the first video showcasing my bike,
In the end I finished with only 8 minutes of video, however now that I have Made a YouTube channel I will likely be uploading frequently, mostly with shorter clips and more vlog style videos (still need to make a walk around video), so please subscribe if you can. There will be more
enjoy, and let me know what you think,
ps. sorry the speedo and stuff on my phone is hard to see, youtube compression killed the quality
https://youtu.be/8O7Ect8Duh4
Rix
100 TW
\\ (•◡•) / said:I'm the owner of a stealth FUTR bike, I know it's not exactly a "Stealth bike" but I have a new youtube channel about my 17kw bike, there is plenty of action and fast riding showcased, check it out if you can :wink:
Well, It’s been well over a year in the making, with countless hours filming and editing, finally here is the first video showcasing my bike,
In the end I finished with only 8 minutes of video, however now that I have Made a YouTube channel I will likely be uploading frequently, mostly with shorter clips and more vlog style videos (still need to make a walk around video), so please subscribe if you can. There will be more
enjoy, and let me know what you think,
ps. sorry the speedo and stuff on my phone is hard to see, youtube compression killed the quality
https://youtu.be/8O7Ect8Duh4
Just watched your video. WOW!!! you have done so much work to your alpha, The hamershmidt, the custom axle blocks for adjusting the chain. Is that a white industry freewheel?, Your build is top notch, so is the battery. Your bike rips, acceleration is phenomenal. It is one of the nicest Alphas I have seen.
Rix said:
Thanks Rix, sadly not a white industry freewheel, although I did actually look at them originally, the freewheel is a generic one but is actually very tight and has been good so far,
Glad to here your feedback, the bike was defiantly ALOT of work, but good fun is always had when riding it.
here are some pics of the torque arms I designed, they're preety similar to a bomber setup in the way that the chain is pulled, but mount differently.
(The above pic was before it was drilled, so that tab at the top was drilled out then the dropout security bolt goes through it)
the torque arms are made from one solid piece for strength
I'm still loving the bike after I believe 1 year already
Rix
100 TW
\\ (•◡•) / said:Rix said:
Thanks Rix, sadly not a white industry freewheel, although I did actually look at them originally, the freewheel is a generic one but is actually very tight and has been good so far,
Glad to here your feedback, the bike was defiantly ALOT of work, but good fun is always had when riding it.
here are some pics of the torque arms I designed, they're preety similar to a bomber setup in the way that the chain is pulled, but mount differently.
(The above pic was before it was drilled, so that tab at the top was drilled out then the dropout security bolt goes through it)
the torque arms are made from one solid piece for strength
I'm still loving the bike after I believe 1 year already
Its apparent the work you put into it. Top notch. Hope to see pics and videos of future rides.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Wildlife in Dallas
Rix
100 TW
Roadrunner?
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Rix said:
I'm thinking Egret, but some people think it's a Blue Heron
Hello gentleman. Just bought a new bomber from Stealth and looking for some tips. Bike is a blast as has the new 6200w motor but I'm a big guy, and a bit lazy, and want more power. I would also like longer range to keep up with my buddy and his custom build. I don't have the available brainpower to start getting into a heavy customization where I have to figure a lot out. I use the bike to blow off steam because after work I don't want to think anymore. So can I upgrade the battery and that's it? Do I need a new controller? I don't know where to start.
To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.
Thank you!
To summarize, I want more low end power, would be ok sacrificing top end speed, want to go farther on a charge and want it to not shit the bed. Fast, Cheap, Reliable... I know I only get two so I'll choose fast and reliable if given the choice.
Thank you!
Rix
100 TW
selvator said:
A motor with a higher turn/wind count would give you more oomph off the line at the price of loosing some top speed. And as you eluded too, a bigger battery would give you more range. Just going to a bigger battery will yield some performance as the volt sag would be less under load which translates into more peak KW
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:
Shows what I know, which aint shit about birds.
Battery upgrade will probably be the easiest. Like rix said that will give you range. A motor upgrade you’ll have to either relace it yourself or get it relaced. Both will require minor setting adjustments to your dc1
If you go for a bigger heavier motor it will negatively affect Suspension but get you more power.
If you go for a bigger heavier motor it will negatively affect Suspension but get you more power.
Hi All, I'm searching the board on how to replace the Vboxx bearings that the swingarm bolts to. I've seen some videos and topics but I don't want to disassemble the Vboxx. I just want to do the bearings. Is it possible without removing the covers? I don't want to misalign the gears so I haven't tried.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Longshot said:
I replaced my Swing arm bearings a few years ago. You can do it without removing the Vboxx. Just be careful on the right side not to disturb the output shaft. It's a pretty easy job
May I ask what you used to pull the bearings off? Do I need a special puller or do they come off by hand? My right side bearing is totally gone. The left side is like gravel. I got some shielded and sealed bearings I thought might work better to keep water out. I think I made the chain too tight trying to get rid of it's slapping noises. I have less than 1k miles on the bike. The star shaped sprocket holder has some markings from hitting the splines on the bottom bracket screw that holds the bearing. It seems like it should be ok for a while longer, I hope...
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Theodore Voltaire said:
I wrote about here it in Aug 2014. Here's some information from got back then.
"At the bearing houses, I just ask for 6808-2rs. They knew right away what I was talking about. The first place I called sold u.s. made SKF for $140 a piece, and they didn't have any in stock. The second place I called had 1 NSK bearing for $80 something each, but would have to order the second. The third place had nondescript Chinese bearings in stock for $16 each plus tax so that's what I ended up with. They told me these were good bearings that they haven't had much trouble with.
One thing you have to understand about bearings is no matter who makes them, they can come in different qualities. A good local bearing house will only try to sell bearings that are high quality, because if their bearings are crap they'll have to hear about it from angry customers. It's hard to say how well the Chinese ones I bought will hold up. but as easy as they are to replace I'm not that wild about paying $100 a bearing. There's a chance a $16 Chinese bearing will be better quality then a $5 Chinese bearing. There's probably more than 100 factory's in China that make bearings, and some of them will be better than others. All I can hope for is the ones I bought came from a good part of China. Now that I know how easy they are to change I'm not as concerned about them."
Park makes the bottom bracket tool you need. It's BBT-22. It fits common European style, sealed bottom bracket cartages. I think it's great that VBoxx uses the same tool for what is essentially a Bomber bottom bracket."
"The bearing is a 6808-2RS.
Tighten the swing arm pivot bolts to 10Nm with some loctite.
When you remove the part on the vboxx that holds the sprocket be very careful not to move the shaft going into the box. If you move it from side to side you may put the shifting mechanism out of alignment. The only fix for this according to Dlogic is to pull the whole box apart and realign everything. You don't want this!
Goodluck."
"A good mechanic could change these bearing at a race track in 5 minutes."
