Custom frame for the Cyclone Coaxial motor
- Thread starter Chambers
- Start date
I am pretty convinced that it's a good idea so if no one else posts a vid before I get to it I will. I don't think it will be too difficult but you never know.Tommm said:
I will most likely use epoxy, The only thing I see as being a potential problem in the casting process is bleeds/leaks into the air gap which might be difficult to post process.
I want to have my Nuc' 12f on hand first though because I ordered a temp sensor with it that I want to install pre-potting.
I suppose I could just order another temp sensor though.
Chambers
I’m reluctant to check on my 12f from necular. Seems like it’s always wait. All I want is auto learn and adjustable regen brakes. No one in the industry reading what people want to compete with necular? I’ll give them my business, yes virus I know, but this waiting makes is almost not worth it. Anyone else except for power velocity, company seems iffy, or sabaton etc that I may never get working correctly? I’m sure nuclear is awesome but I may never get my hands on one.
I’m reluctant to check on my 12f from necular. Seems like it’s always wait. All I want is auto learn and adjustable regen brakes. No one in the industry reading what people want to compete with necular? I’ll give them my business, yes virus I know, but this waiting makes is almost not worth it. Anyone else except for power velocity, company seems iffy, or sabaton etc that I may never get working correctly? I’m sure nuclear is awesome but I may never get my hands on one.
yeah I hear ya,Skaiwerd said:
For me it's the form factor, cooler quieter running and easy set up that's the draw card for the Nuc'.
But at some point soon I may have to get something else just to move the project forward... But I don't know what - Of course I could use the standard yuyang king (spelling?) that cyclone use but I want more tuning options and a good display. I read somewhere someone was having issues with the PV controller and cyclone motor.
I guess my point is there's a level of trust and support with the Nucular that other controllers don't seem to have - I also like their charging solution....
But if anyone knows of some other controllers that will work with similar levels of functionality please let us all know.... One day I would like to offer complete ebikes or kits for sale (whether it's this project remains to be seen) and it will be pretty hard to use the Nuc' if they still have supply issues. Heres hoping they get it sorted!
But if anyone knows of some other controllers that will work with similar levels of functionality please let us all know.... One day I would like to offer complete ebikes or kits for sale (whether it's this project remains to be seen) and it will be pretty hard to use the Nuc' if they still have supply issues. Heres hoping they get it sorted!
This looks like a good store from AliExpress. I know to look for power, ground and signal for adjustable regeneration braking. Some of these controllers you can get the bluetooth dongle and a display. Just think they are underrated as volts times amps is 3-4 times what the rating really is like how qs motors are rated.
Anyone with a entrepreneur sprit will know a steel frame, rigid ok, 1 1/2” fork compatibility, to match this motor will be a good seller. Or the start of a nice custom ebike. I’m talkin dual chain version here.
I’m thinking nuc may be making their oem customer(s) the priority now as the virus slowdown has them in catch up mode and they probably want to preserve that stream of bulk orders. Meaning they need a USA distributor to ensure some confidence in them.
Anyone with a entrepreneur sprit will know a steel frame, rigid ok, 1 1/2” fork compatibility, to match this motor will be a good seller. Or the start of a nice custom ebike. I’m talkin dual chain version here.
I’m thinking nuc may be making their oem customer(s) the priority now as the virus slowdown has them in catch up mode and they probably want to preserve that stream of bulk orders. Meaning they need a USA distributor to ensure some confidence in them.
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I am using the bac2000 on mine. It is quite happy.
Also I noticed there is less heat vs the square wave yuyangking when lugging it at low power levels, so PAS at very low power levels could be doable. I think it might be due to the wave form being able to deal with the motor being between two positions for a longer time.
Only issue is the hall sensors aren't working, I read the kellys only work when powering the halls from 12v instead of 5v, the asi does have a 12v wire but I personally can't be bothered for the moment.
Also I noticed there is less heat vs the square wave yuyangking when lugging it at low power levels, so PAS at very low power levels could be doable. I think it might be due to the wave form being able to deal with the motor being between two positions for a longer time.
Only issue is the hall sensors aren't working, I read the kellys only work when powering the halls from 12v instead of 5v, the asi does have a 12v wire but I personally can't be bothered for the moment.
Skaiwerd said:
Does anyone know offhand what the model of yuang king controller is that is normally paired with the coaxial?
Tommm said:
I remember reading in one of the LR Bigblock threads that the ASI and Kelly KBS controllers had trouble finding the hall signals, Pretty sure someone posted a fix too? Could be wrong though :lol:
ASI's seem to be pretty nice but for the money personally I want something that will work out of the box with minimal fiddling -
Chambers said:
https://ibb.co/album/VwPWg2
It is right next to motor. Huge blue transparent speaker cables connecting each way. It is mounted with cable ties in a way it is flexible but self correcting. A blow to any corner or side will cause the controller to pivot a little in its direction, then pull back to position. That way nothing is breaking or going loose after. The controller isn't significantly wider than the battery box, 105 vs ~115, and is wrapped the same way with cf vinyl.
I had my old big controller mounted in the rear between wheel and seat tube. Now it is home to a bottle cage. For water or tools. Pic taken at full compression.
Got around to put the mini heatsinks all over the motor. They have thermal adhesive pads but not meant for outdoor use. Some zipties spliced in, they are conducting heat and motor is happier.
Tommm said:
Thanks for the pics - it's always interesting to see how different people attack problems, That actually blends in pretty well.
Did you do the heat-sinks at the same time as the controller swap? Would be interesting to see what difference one or the other separately vs both together makes to the temps.
Chambers said:
So far with the sinks it hasn't even gotten warm and we were doing big climbs. I think the asi only runs the motor cooler at low rpm, about 20% of max. There it is noticeable. Otherwise only quieter.
The best part of this controller is the battery power foldback, under a custom limit, the lower your battery voltage is the more it will throttle power. So it is possible run high watts without fear of something getting tripped to lvc.
I had an idea for the battery connections - Copper carries current better than Nickel and I don't like the idea of multiple layers of spot welds (I still may end up doing it though :lol: )
My idea is to create a Copper-Nickel combined sheet for the series connections as below - Obviously the sheets would have to be made to shape this is just the concept...
My idea is to create a Copper-Nickel combined sheet for the series connections as below - Obviously the sheets would have to be made to shape this is just the concept...
Chambers said:
Make sure it is compatible with whatever cell holders you plan on using, a lot of them poke out up in the 4 corners of each cell. Also the cell insulator stickers, possibly something else too, your cells might rub against the cutout of the copper holes.
How do you plan on connecting the two sheets? If it is spot weld, you are still doing multiple layers, just with 3 different materials.
Looks like someone beat me to it 3 or so years ago :lol: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=84680&start=100 Also looks like spot welding a nickel copper sandwich works quite well, so that's the method I think I'll use.
A few more mods while I look for parts, This frame shape allows for different controllers where as the other one pretty much only fits the nucular 12f anywhere that's out of the way. The new seat uprights will have a graduated curve - It was just easier in Inventor to add folds. 
also working on my battery config
also working on my battery config
GP-tech
1 mW
Hey Chambers, great looking bike and mint design skills!
looking forward to see the prototype running. Maybe consider mounting the shock to toptube(less stress for the mainframe) and the rearend pivot piont in the seattube(mentioned before) with the full width of your frame(thats the weak point of an monolink rearend).
Keep in mind that spotwelds should be forcefree at the connections by design(cut and stepdown bend, like bosch packs).
looking forward to see the prototype running. Maybe consider mounting the shock to toptube(less stress for the mainframe) and the rearend pivot piont in the seattube(mentioned before) with the full width of your frame(thats the weak point of an monolink rearend).
Keep in mind that spotwelds should be forcefree at the connections by design(cut and stepdown bend, like bosch packs).
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