I need help, as i dont have anywhere to ask, and no one to help me

Davidcroatia said:
Davidcroatia said:
Hello, this is my first ebike build and i dont have a clue what could be rhe problem, im adding throttle but almost nothing helps . https://imgur.com/a/4zvbfoy



https://youtu.be/lXGZ-mxtYY8

https://youtu.be/feRsy8ailhM
Nothing here doesnt give away i dont posses a lcd screen except the whole video that i shot, 40% of the video happens on an lcd i own

Nice videos of an LCD screen and controller. With that detailed information, someone should be able to help. :thumb:

Sorry, I didn't click on your youtube link, since it looked a little fishy with the address being "youtu.be". We get tested a lot on that for work (anti-phishing).
You might want to try reading the top two stickies at the top of this forum. They are short, but will help you get your answers a lot faster. Following this process seems to work for me, it's inside one of the stickies: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66302&start=25#p1485445
 
My lcd is kt lcd 3, my exact controller is in the subject and i drive 1000w qs motor. I connect the charger to it and it just goes charging, not charging, and after few minutes usb cable gets reallly hot :)
 
Balmorhea said:
Youtu.be is the domain you get when you copy a link from YouTube.

Good to know. I guess most people embed the link so you never see that part.

Davidcroatia said:
My lcd is kt lcd 3, my exact controller is in the subject and i drive 1000w qs motor. I connect the charger to it and it just goes charging, not charging, and after few minutes usb cable gets reallly hot :)
Maybe it's your phone. What model is it? Per Kunteng's website, the port is only good for 1A, so it would be unusual for the cable to get heated up like that unless there's a direct short or your phone is pulling too much current. Check the voltage on the USB port to see what's going on.
http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=434
 
markz said:
Balmorhea said:
markz said:
Do you use your H-brake with its one wire?

I don't use any kind of electrical brake. My torque arm only works for forward drive. And my rim brakes are really good.

Yeah I prefer rim brakes myself, can't beat $4 pads! Cheapest disc pads are $21 cdn here, such a ripoff.

I forget what I actually paid, but Nukeproof pads from chain reaction were very budget friendly and do the job well.
 
Balmorhea said:
Good V-brakes cost $20 brand new, and don't need to be bled like used hydraulics. Where I live, a single brake bleed costs more than $30 by itself.
.

I got a bleed kit from Aliexpress for less than $10. Can recommend, though I bled mine before it arrived without even needing it. Just popped the cap and kept dripping and squeezing.
 
OP: the phone is probably attempting to draw more amperage than the lcd can provide. Get a portable usb power bank for phone charging.
 
HK12K said:
OP: the phone is probably attempting to draw more amperage than the lcd can provide. Get a portable usb power bank for phone charging.

There are 2 or 3 USB protocols for charging and stuff that require different amperes, not sure what each one is, maybe 1A (original version) and 3A (newer version) or something, completely guessing on my part specific Amps. A simple web search should reveal.
 
HK12K said:
Balmorhea said:
Good V-brakes cost $20 brand new, and don't need to be bled like used hydraulics. Where I live, a single brake bleed costs more than $30 by itself.
.

I got a bleed kit from Aliexpress for less than $10. Can recommend, though I bled mine before it arrived without even needing it. Just popped the cap and kept dripping and squeezing.

Yep. It's a great way to oil and ruin your brake pads. On the other hand, brake pads have never been destroyed by coming into brief contact with a cable.
 
Uh, I bled from the top side, so no chance of that happening. Didn't lose a drop. You might come in contact with a tree should that cable snap though.
 
HK12K said:
Uh, I bled from the top side, so no chance of that happening. Didn't lose a drop. You might come in contact with a tree should that cable snap though.

Or if the hose gets the slightest damage.
 
Cables are fine, but there was a reason every production motorcycle switched to hydraulic decades ago. They're better.

But this was never about one vs the other. It was about being competent enough to not give someone else $30 to do a simple job for you.
 
Speak for yourself. Mike bike weighs 100 and will do 100, lol. Not to mention your 15lb bike weighs how much after you throw your leg over the saddle again? More. Quite a bit more. Now point it downhill.

All of that aside though, hydros offer considerably better feel and modulation and significantly more stopping power overall. But again it was never about one vs the other, it was about being able to do the most basic of maintenance yourself.
 
What do you buy for a battery cover to be waterproof? Upp battery producer doesnt have a waterproof battery cover so large for my battery. Mine is 24.5ah 91 cells hialong case dolphin i think
 
dont understand how is 1000w
https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/26-inch-48v-52v-1000w-rear-wheel-electric-hub-motor-kit-1067.html faster than 1500w?? https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/26-inch-48v-52v-1500w-rear-electric-hub-motor-kit-1181.html
 
Davidcroatia said:
dont understand how is 1000w
https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/26-inch-48v-52v-1000w-rear-wheel-electric-hub-motor-kit-1067.html faster than 1500w?? https://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/26-inch-48v-52v-1500w-rear-electric-hub-motor-kit-1181.html

Thats the speed that the motor will try to turn, not the speed that the motor has enough power to reach. Using too fast a motor for the amount of power your controller and/or battery can supply is a rookie mistake.

Note that the performance data for those motors show the 1000w model producing 21 Nm of torque from 24 A of current (about 1000W), and the 1500W version producing 86 Nm of torque from 90A of current (about 2700W).

The 1500W motor is heavier, with more copper and wider magnets. It can produce more power without overheating. The “speed” of the motor is a result of the motor winding and how many volts you feed it. It does not result in you going that speed unless there is enough power available to do that.
 
Lets say 6t winding is a good winding for start and stop, i mean it comes as a first option. So its good for a quick start stop all day, thats what i need. Then i use 48v 24.5ah battery with 40amp bms , i need speed up to 50km h , what would be the difference bezween 1000w and 1500 w ?
 
Davidcroatia said:
Lets say 6t winding is a good winding for start and stop, i mean it comes as a first option. So its good for a quick start stop all day, thats what i need. Then i use 48v 24.5ah battery with 40amp bms , i need speed up to 50km h , what would be the difference bezween 1000w and 1500 w ?

1500W is a little heavier and will heat up less under load. 50 km/h will take about 1300W at the wheel, so at least 1600W from the battery. That’s a better match for the 1500W motor in my opinion.

Don’t assume that the same winding will give the same RPM per volt or the same torque per amp, when applied to these two different motors. Those values will probably be different.

Your battery contains a little less than 1.2kWh of energy, if you run it completely down to exhaustion. You won’t get all day endurance from that, if you have lots of starts and stops and you want to go 50 km/h. Have a plan to recharge as you go, or have a second battery in rotation.
 
https://youtu.be/yt78ZCLJ7V4 kranz died and has eaten the kranz adapter how to solve this? Distancer we are thining it
 
Davidcroatia said:
https://youtu.be/yt78ZCLJ7V4 kranz died and has eaten the kranz adapter how to solve this? Distancer we are thining it

You stripped the freewheel thread? If so, you need to get a new motor side cover. There’s not a quick and easy fix for that.
 
Its not so stripped , but its a little bit stripped, why it has stripped ? Thats why i need cassette adspter...
 
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