E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners
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Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
No, not really, yah its 6-7 pounds less of suspended mass, but because the weight is so low, I can't tell. And because of where the weight is, to get these bikes to handle good, the rebound needs to be slowed down alot more than if it I was setting up a regular bike, or dirtbike for that matter. The 55xx accelerates better than the 54xx given same amps volts input is the noticeable difference.
Rix
100 TW
Longshot said:
http://www.crystalyte.com/
I used to deal with Kenny back when I was importing motors to the US, because I worked with Electric Rider in Texas, I could get away with ordering as little as 5 units at a time. I have been told if one deals with Crystalyte directly, the minimum order is 50 units, however, I haven't confirmed if thats the case.
Rix,
Do you know where to get a UFO motor if I only wanted the one? I checked with stealth, they have them as I recall they were asking 6675 plus shipping from Australia... Love to see if there is anything closer to cut down on shipping and cost.
thanks!
Do you know where to get a UFO motor if I only wanted the one? I checked with stealth, they have them as I recall they were asking 6675 plus shipping from Australia... Love to see if there is anything closer to cut down on shipping and cost.
thanks!
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:
Six thousand dollars for a electric motor? It better have gold windings
Rix
100 TW
1abv said:
Not anymore, Mike from Electric Rider shut down business a few years back, and now Electroride has picked up their line. I had a bad experience with Electroride many years ago, I ended up driving from Fallon to Palo Alto to recover the motors and rims I had shipped there. I had talked to the owner by phone, he was in crisis, but tried to do right by me after I had already retrieved my motors. This was back in 2012, maybe Electroride is under new management/ownership now. They don't have the HS55xx or UFO55xx in their inventory, but because of the volume they do, they could get motor in on one of their sea freight shipments, but they probably only order 2-3 times a year and in volumes of 100-200 units per order. Anyway, if you contact Electroride and come up with an arrangement, its at your own risk, I think you would be okay now as it looks like they have grown and expanded, but its not my money were talking about here. .
Rix
100 TW
Longshot said:
Yah, the 5580 will be better than the 5403, maybe a few MPH slower, but a bit more accleration/thrust. I ran my Bomber with the stock controller, it was good for about 70 amps DC, so maybe 175-180 phase. I'm not sure what the programmed ratio is from the factory. 2.5:1 is your typical Phase to DC amps ratio.
I've ruined three crank arms in three months for my Stealth Bomber. It appears SR Suntour no longer supports the vboxx, and replacement crank arms can only be sourced through Stealth. Stealth sells the arms for a reasonable price, but it's insane to pay $45 (usd) just for shipping every time I need a set. Do you know if there is any alternative? Any other place we can order from, or any other part that can be used? I'm also getting really frustrated with bending these things, and I'm about ready to have a brand new set 3d scanned, and then order up a batch of CNC'd billet cranks arms that can actually stand up to the abuse of such a heavy bike.
zedifier said:
So Ive bent these a few times. I wound up buying a new set measuring them and bending the old ones back to the correct position. They work fine. I've actually had to bend the same ones more than once but if your careful about your measurements they will bend and be aligned. IF you dont want to do that and have some bent ones you want to get rid of, I know a guy
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:So Ive bent these a few times. I wound up buying a new set measuring them and bending the old ones back to the correct position. They work fine. I've actually had to bend the same ones more than once but if your careful about your measurements they will bend and be aligned. IF you dont want to do that and have some bent ones you want to get rid of, I know a guy
1abv, could you describe the method you use to straighten them? I have 2 left side arms that are slightly bent.
1abv said:Made a couple of tools.. Pretty basic but useful thought I would share.
Since the v boxx cranks like to bend I made a board that has measurements on it at specific distances so when I bend the cranks back that would be in spec.
Bomber board with measurements.
I clamp a piece of square tubing and back the crank up against it, and now I can use it to measure how bent my cranks are and where they are bent.
finally I get a ruler or tape measure and line it up to the marks.
I put the cranks in a padded vice, wrap them in cloth and bend em back in shape.
This is version one of the board but its been real helpful. Hope it helps....
Tool #2
Bomber strut. I used this when I removed the rear shock to hold up the bike. pretty basic but here you go..
its really easy to do this the most important measurement is the one at the end of the crank. I usually a length of pipe and slide it over the crank arm to get more purchase.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
Thanks 1abv,
A few years ago I was riding along, and dropped one of my gloves. I turned around and when back to get it. I got off the bike, but didn't turn it off, or put it on the stand. When I leaned down to pick up the glove I did I accidentally twisted the throttle. The bike took off while I was at the most awkward position. I ran along beside the bike trying to regain control, but the wheels started rolling under my feet tripping me. The bike when down, and I fell on top of it in a heap. At almost the exact same moment there was one of the biggest earthquakes Dallas has seen in my lifetime, about 3.0. My handle bars were twisted, and my crank arm was bent so I immediately started for home. Within a half a block a skunk ran across the street in from of me. At that point I was thinking I needed to be very careful or I might not make it home alive.
A few years ago I was riding along, and dropped one of my gloves. I turned around and when back to get it. I got off the bike, but didn't turn it off, or put it on the stand. When I leaned down to pick up the glove I did I accidentally twisted the throttle. The bike took off while I was at the most awkward position. I ran along beside the bike trying to regain control, but the wheels started rolling under my feet tripping me. The bike when down, and I fell on top of it in a heap. At almost the exact same moment there was one of the biggest earthquakes Dallas has seen in my lifetime, about 3.0. My handle bars were twisted, and my crank arm was bent so I immediately started for home. Within a half a block a skunk ran across the street in from of me. At that point I was thinking I needed to be very careful or I might not make it home alive.
Theodore Voltaire
1 GW
1abv said:
Looks like a pretty good bike, but the wheels are too skinny for that kind of power and weight. Looks like everyone is gunning for Sur Ron's now, but I bet it's going to cost a lot more too.
Rix
100 TW
Theodore Voltaire said:
At least its running a 19x1.40 MC rim on the rear with a MTB wheel up front. But yah, its under engineered for the power and what the bike is intended to do.
1abv said:
I bought mine directly from Stealth 5565, it is noisier and pickup from standing start is significantly better , so much so that i needed to change my riding position a little so it didn't wheelie. (not difficult but week one was noticeable).
In AUD laced into a rim with a couple of other parts i needed was about $1400.
I gave them my 5403 to relace into a 19" moto rim as per RIX's advice re me chopping through a small fortune in tyres. I bought the bike at 3000kms binned the stuffed battery, binned the RST front forks which were leaking added MT5 front (will do rear when i run out of ebay pads) also replaced the aluminum fill ins in the side covers with carbon (tape them in mark a line then rough up the sealing surface and use silicone not epoxy which is brittle (did it twice to figure this out) $30 mod which saves some weight, creates a little more battery space and shits all over the CF sticky tape on the stock bike. at 9700kms now and i haven't had it on the road for 12 months so yet= IM frocking HAPPY WITH IT
So..... I lashed out and bought the heatshrink $12 for the next battery build - 22S12P will fit, 21S 14P will fit too (14cells ontop). I love to cover the kms / miles and being able to go 20% further is appealing even with 2.77kWh the (22S10P pack I built ) I could do with more. 20% less sag or 20% more grunt with a slightly bigger controller would be nice too. This would make the 5403 just as quick off the mark without the 10% decrease in top speed. see next post what BMS, i dont think i need it for output, be happy with just a fuse in case of crash, I like being able to check battery voltages without breaking out the multimeter with the BT BMS I bought last time but it is huge and there is at least .6V drop across it at 5.8kW - without it the bike peaks a shade over 6.2kW. I guess i could beef up the copper bus bar and traces etc but really ....cant be frocked for a couple of hundred watts
Ahh.... if we had unlimited budgets.
so the last BMS I bought was this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000553945009.html?src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9604210690&albag=100463787298&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4000553945009&netw=u&device=c&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4000553945009&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7Nj5BRCZARIsABwxDKJ7wqC5Vp-dtxu7wDBifshXPNJ32W_GEUkp7sKypXl8hgyVkesYMwUaAphvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
300A with no screen
next one? Dont think I actually need it for output but I do like being able to measure, and like CD notes the cells simply dont drift much if any hence BMS functionality is a nice to have but probably only for insurance
300A with no screen
next one? Dont think I actually need it for output but I do like being able to measure, and like CD notes the cells simply dont drift much if any hence BMS functionality is a nice to have but probably only for insurance
Rix
100 TW
KarlJ said:1abv said:
I bought mine directly from Stealth 5565, it is noisier and pickup from standing start is significantly better , so much so that i needed to change my riding position a little so it didn't wheelie. (not difficult but week one was noticeable).
In AUD laced into a rim with a couple of other parts i needed was about $1400.
I gave them my 5403 to relace into a 19" moto rim as per RIX's advice re me chopping through a small fortune in tyres. I bought the bike at 3000kms binned the stuffed battery, binned the RST front forks which were leaking added MT5 front (will do rear when i run out of ebay pads) also replaced the aluminum fill ins in the side covers with carbon (tape them in mark a line then rough up the sealing surface and use silicone not epoxy which is brittle (did it twice to figure this out) $30 mod which saves some weight, creates a little more battery space and shits all over the CF sticky tape on the stock bike. at 9700kms now and i haven't had it on the road for 12 months so yet= IM frocking HAPPY WITH IT
Ahh.... if we had unlimited budgets.
Glad you are happy with the mods. Damn, it sounds like the 5565 hits really hard off the start if you have to reposition yourself not to wheelie over backwards
