new eZip motor

I do not recommend LiPo for either John or Mike. They are new to e bikes. Neither of them ever even rode one. I am not going to be responsible for them burning their houses down. I told them the truth. The 48V lithium ion pack will get them about 20 miles if they do not pedal unless there are a lot of steep hills. I said that the battery could fail in 3 miles if it is a really steep hill and they do not pedal. It could also last 30 or 40 miles if they pedal a lot and mostly flat with not many hills.

Click to expand...

Ok, so do the 36v 20Ah pack. Every extra Ah is great to have if needed. You say you get less than 1 mile per Ah, so I would recommend the 20Ah over the 14Ah any day. I like being able to go where I wanna go without worrying about having to walk home. That's all!

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Pedaling is over rated. :lol: :lol:

Still have not made it to the bike shop. Both front hub motors have bent rims. Not even sure how the 20" hub motor got bent. I do not remember hitting anything with it.

What I do know is they will never be front hub motors again and the first two new builds or upgrades in the case of the 20" Turbo bike are the elimination of milk crate baskets or baskets period. I have a back pack to haul stuff and eventually the car once I get the tire fixed.

I did manage to get a floor jack , a four way for the lug nuts. A jack stand and chocks for both the rear wheels as it is front wheel drive and will roll backwards when jacking up the front. It already happened. I am waiting on a ride to the junk yard for a spare tire and am in no big rush to spend any more money this month.

I spent 1,000 on the car. The insurance and triple A was almost 200 bucks as well as over 700 bucks getting my storage hauled here and the new storage unit. I spent way over 2,000 all together. I got ripped off by the garage for over 70 bucks on used tires and was unable to get a ride to have it repaired. New tires at Wall-Mart and 6 quarts of oil will set me back about 150 bucks so I would just as soon wait until next month when the disability checks come in. I need to budget my money and still want to save for a place to move.

The 20" bike needs a front wheel and brake work as well as the hub motor straightened out. It will never be a pedal bike and neither will the Giant Roam. I might order a factory triangle rack for the Giant. I would like to house both the lithium packs as well as the controller in a waterproof compartment.

I do not even have a card on file with my google account to order any thing but did order two of the 40 amp DC breakers so did install one on the 20" Turbo last night and with a couple of hooks on the bottom of the frame I built and the right size bungee cords the batteries can be secured. I can also paint the wood frame I built black with a small paint brush and some outside paint. I will get a quart of primer and a quart of paint. At the post office there is a 100 amp DC breaker for when the 1,000 watt hub motor gets fixed for the Giant.

It will most likely be painted before I get the wheel fixed and a ride to storage for the front wheel as the rear wheel that was on there will not fit, I posted the video on how to build a rear wheel from scratch. I do not know when I will try it. I am basically on stop mode for anything that has to do with spending money. Everything is at a stand still right now. That could change next month especially if a second stimulus package is passed.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Rims can go out of true just from vibrations and normal road bumps. A good quality wheel on smooth pavement can last years and thousands of miles without needing a true. But a low quality wheel on a poor quality road can require truing as little as every 100 kilometers. Having a heavier load and traveling at higher speeds also increases the need to true the wheel.

Not sure but don't think I rode that 20" hub motor that much. Must of hit something and just don't remember. I see a lot of people here in Ohio riding around on gas bikes and never pedal. I see electric scooters sometimes also. Those little razor scooters.

Legally I think you are supposed to have pedals but do not think they enforce it. This is not NY. I would not be able to run any non pedal bike there. Even if the shocks on the Giant Roam were wide enough it is like I said. I don't like front hub motors. As soon as you hit a pot hole it can bend the rim again. At least when it is on the rear the front wheel takes the brunt of the blow.

The only exception will be the front wheel on Easy Street with the e bikling geared 500 watt hub motor, The same exact motor on the rear of the 26" dual suspension 26" bike I have been running for 16 months since I moved to Ohio. I want to run both motors on Easy Street. However I may want to re build both wheels so they are 700c. Easy street is already 700c but those really skinny tires have to go.

I am not sure if a wider tire will fit on the rim. In fact it could be a rather expensive upgrade as not even sure if the controllers are the same amps. Easy street seemed to have at least 30% more power. It could be that Easy Street is a lighter bike with a larger wheel though. For a daily commuter and super reliable two of those motors would be better up hills especially with pedal assist and all the gears working. The gears and brakes do not work well at all on the 26" dual suspension I have been running.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Front hubs are only good for one thing - Simplicity. They are they easiest to get working, easiest to change the tyre on, and hardest to get wrong, which is why I sent you one in the first place.

Now you have more skills working on bikes, rear hub and PROPER chain drives with sensible gearing and RPMs are your best bet.

front hubs on the rear are even more simple as long as you get rid of the pedal chain and gears. if you got a decent hub motor that is 800 or 1,000W no need to pedal.

That's what i can do right now. Later on when I get more money I can build some wheels with dual drive axles. I need to build at least three for the motors I have I am not using.

Thanks. LC. out.

8/19/20 9:41 PM.

I finally got the little Turbo bike going. The back wheel was set up for a chain drive back in NY but by removing an axle nut used for spacing it was not difficult to make it work for the front. The rear frame where the axle goes has a lot of area to work with and was able to drill two small holes and bolt the torque arms to the frame instead of using clamps. It really needs the torque arms as the throttle is very sensitive. Anyone who did not know that could definitely snap the drop outs in the rear.

I am not letting anyone ride the bike. I know how to work the throttle for low speeds and prevent a disaster. That hub motor is way too snotty for the front anyway. The cops here really don't care as I was seen by the Canton police NOT pedaling and going down a one way street. :lol: I am going to call it my down town bike as I only have the front brake working for now but I plan on riding it a lot so will be getting brand new brakes front and rear installed.

The bike is very heavy for it's size. The hub motor weighs a lot. I carried it down stairs with the battery pack hooked up though. I could carry the batteries separate and get a quick release for the front but probably will not as it fits perfect in the trunk of the Cadillac where it is now, The old lithium packs in the back seat. I can still fit a spare tire in the tire compartment under the bike and is room for the 4 way and floor jack on the side.

I might have to put the jack stand and wheel chocks in the back seat or on the floor in the back but as soon as I get the wheels straightened and brand new brakes that bike will be very reliable and won't have to lug it up and down stairs thank god. That alone is worth putting about 100 bucks in the wheels and brakes.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Seven perfect reliable e bikes within the next year. 5 just for me


The little hub motor on the 20 inch Turbo bike is way better up hills than the 500W e bikeling motor. The rating on the 800W 20" hub motor was 800 watts @ 48V is what I thought. If that is real than it should only be 533W @ 36V but it seems more like 800W. I don't have a meter for the 20" Turbo. My meter is on the 26" dual suspension.

The reason for this post however is I have figured out exactly what I want to do for the next three builds or re builds. And what makes sense for the other bikes and motors in storage. The Giant Roam is the lightest bike I own so should get BOTH e bikeling 500W Geared hub motors. Both those motors probably weigh less than the 1,000W 26" hub motor. In fact the 800W direct drive might weigh more than both the 500W geared e bikeling motors.

So the Giant Roam will be the best it can be with both e bikling motors and the Upgrade for the heavy 26" dual suspension with the power meter I have been running for 16 months with the little e bikling motor can be the 1,000W direct drive 26: motor that needs rim work.

The 20" Turbo needs both the rear wheel that I put on the front with the 800W front hub motor that is on the back put on a machine and straightened and BRAND NEW brakes front and rear and it is finished. The only other thing I will be doing to it is installing a power meter and move the DC breaker from the frame to the handle bars for emergency access.

The brakes need to be fixed on the 26" dual suspension. It will not need gears as the 26" 1,000 front hub motor on the back will work great for hills without pedal assist.

The Giant Roam will have all pedal gears as the REAR e bikling motor will be on the back. The gears and brakes should be perfect as the bike is in brand new condition. The big issue with that build will be making BOTH motors 700c. The rear e bikeling motor is 26". The front motor on easy street is 700c but the tires are way too skinny. I think however that the rear is disk on the Giant so the 26" e bikeling motor could work and the brakes should work with the 700c wheel on easy Street as well but hopefully a wider tire will fit as I can't live with tires that skinny.

The Currie is a very heavy e bike and solid frame. It should be perfect for 60V and 2,250W and 43 mph with the 48V 1,800W brushless motor.

Then there is the Haro V3. I think that with a stock 26" Currie wheel the 24V 500W motor could run @ 36V and 750W with a 90T freewheel #25 chain sprocket. The original Currie rack is on the Haro so the hook up will be the same as the Currie upgrade in the beginning of this post. It lasted two years and never failed. I took the motor off and it was destroyed attempting to install it on a 20" bike.

The 1,000W 48V brushed Unite motor and the 800W 36V brushed unite motor can go on the Clear creek and the Dimond back in storage. I will need to order two stock Currie rims or order the dual drive hubs for 36 bucks each and learn to build wheels from scratch. Those two bikes I am passing on to John and Mike. My wife's two sons.

All four chain drive builds will be last. I also have the 750W geared reduction motor can be a spare motor or another build. Sounds like a winter project along with wheel building. The rest of Summer and the Fall will be the Giant Roam , the 26" dual suspension and finishing the Turbo by getting new brakes and the wheels straightened and perhaps a power meter and a speedo.

All builds from not on get a DC breaker , power meter and speedos. I am going to prove to everyone here that I am a professional e bike builder and all my bikes will be properly geared as well as reliable. Any one of you would be willing to ride the e bikes that I build. Please let me know what you all think about that.


Thanks.

LC. out.

If I remember correctly, a bicycle has a chain, that is connected to the front sprocket and to the rear sprocket. To be a legal Ebike it must have those items. Not trying to piss you off but that is the law.
They might not bother you there, but you never know. It's also nice to pedal on starts and be able to pedal home if something fails.

Remember 700c wheels are large diameter, which need more torque to get moving than 26". 20" needs the least torque/amps at starts and get to top speed faster.

Don't forget, you need the hub, WHEEL and SPOKES. It might add up to the cost of a built wheel. Especially if you don't build them yourself!

Have you looked at these https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1578414#p1578414

Good luck with your projects.

Dan

If I remember correctly, a bicycle has a chain, that is connected to the front sprocket and to the rear sprocket. To be a legal Ebike it must have those items. Not trying to piss you off but that is the law.
They might not bother you there, but you never know. It's also nice to pedal on starts and be able to pedal home if something fails.

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Yea. This might be true however I already own those front hub motors and they run better on the rear of the bikes. My main commuter will be the Giant Roam which will have all pedal gears. The only problem I see is the brakes as they are not disk. The bike takes 700c wheels. That is great for the 700c e bikeling motor on the Giant which is also 700c. However I can't live with that skinny tire. Hopefully I can fit a tire on there a little wider.

For the rear I might need to convert it to disk brakes if possible as the 26" wheel with the geared e bikeling motor would work on the back but with a separate thumb throttle on the left side handle bar. I do not need to use the rear motor on flat or down hills. The 700c front motor is a 700c wheel so the rear motor would just hold the front motor back. However going up hills they can work together.

The question is would it be more expensive to convert the rear of the Giant Roam to disk brakes or pay someone to build a whole new 700c wheel. I don't see an increase in speed and if I were to guess the 700c motor even though only 500W will go about 5 mph faster than the 26" rear wheel. Therefore the 26" wheel is better for up hills than if I were to put the motor on a 700c rim. Either way top speed on the flat will be around 25 mph and when I use the rear throttle up hills I won't have to pedal as hard but will have all the pedal gears if I need them.

One thing for sure is I will be building a custom triangle rack. I plan on using 3/4" plywood. It will be cut EXACTLY the size to fit the triangle. It should be a tight fit. It will be secured with about a dozen zip ties after it is sanded smooth, primed and painted gloss black to match the color of the bike. I will need a new plastic battery compartment which will fit in the bottom of the triangle rack on a custom built shelf. The two brushless controllers will go above the batteries on each side of the triangle rack.

The Giant will be my best and most complete e bike with all wheel drive via lightweight geared hub motors and 21 pedal gears and brand new brakes. It is also my most expensive and newest bike and will be my long range cruiser.

I wont need those 48V batteries as am running all three bikes with hub motors at 36V for now. However I will be ordering four of those 4S hard shell LiPo packs later on for the Currie for 43 mph with the brushless chain drive. That is not happening until I build all three bikes with hub motors. Thanks.

LC. out.

Unlikely the frame has mounts for disc brakes!

I posted adapters on the bottom. I remember my friend Doug in NY telling me about them. I am just not sure which ones to order or if universal.???

I know you have been recommending quality brakes on my builds for years and really hate going fast down hills. It is not even ok on country roads as a deer at 40 mph could be curtains. I learned that expression from someone who lived in the City and went to plays I think where when someone dies they close the curtains. Could also end up a quadriplegic.

How I know this is I hit a deer with a 3,800 pound Cadillac at 55 mph back in the 90s. The car was shot. Front end caved in. passenger side door would not open. A deer is solid muscle. If I do go 40 mph it wont be where there is woods. I will need to see what is ahead and be in control of speed. Going down a steep hill at 40 mph is like hoping aboard a run a way train.

I like the 20" Turbo with no pedal as can go on the sidewalk and just go slow over bumps. If someone just hoped on it that did not know the snotty personality of that hub motor they could easily break something on take off. Many people here on ES have told me these things and it is all true. Other than the 500W e bikeling going on the Giant Roam I have no plans to run front hub motors.

I also am not building or attempting to build a 30 to 40 mph 20' bike The Turbo might hit 20 mph but is stronger up hills than one e bikeling motor. I will not be taking a NON pedal bike more than 2 to 3 miles from the house unless I have a phone to call a taxi if the bike breaks.

They might not bother you there, but you never know. It's also nice to pedal on starts and be able to pedal home if something fails.

Click to expand...

If the frame is not worth much I could pull the motor and leave the rest. The Giant Roam with two motors and controllers and throttles and 21 pedal gears is my best ticket for long distance but also the greatest liability if I have to haul it back as it has two motors and the frame alone is worth at least 300 bucks used. There is two sides to that coin.

will those adapters work ? I need disk brake calipers that hook up to them. I will order them if I know exactly what to order. I do not want to order the wrong thing. I did have brushed motors apart several times and was a challenge putting back together. I had to tie little strings on the magnets to keep them back to screw it together. Not sure if I could build wheels though but a blown rear 26" motor would be great for the guts of the front hub motor. I would like to see videos of the inside of hub motors and brushless motors.

I am reaching a new level of e bike building where all my bikes meet certain standards. Good brakes. DC breakers. heavier gauge wiring for voltage > 36V and 800W will happen next and I am already running better battery packs. I started out with LEAD ASS batteries. :lol: Now I know how to charge LiPo and am mounting stuff in or on the frames of bikes instead of stupid looking stolen milk crates.

Thanks.

LC. out.

A disc brake can be (but isn’t necessarily) a good strong reliable brake.

A disc brake attached to a weak, crappy, strapped-on adapter is never a good strong reliable brake.

A disc brake can be (but isn’t necessarily) a good strong reliable brake.

A disc brake attached to a weak, crappy, strapped-on adapter is never a good strong reliable brake.

Click to expand...

OK so if those adapters are crap then where can I find good ones ?

The front brakes are 70% stopping power I was told. The front wheel will be the correct size for the front brake. I am putting adapters on the back for disk as I plan on running a 26" wheel on a 700c frame. I prefer to have working brakes on the rear.

Also welcome to this post.

If anyone knows the difference between crap adapters and good adapters please post a link. I am looking to do an awsome build here. If I need to spend 50 bucks on adapters instead of 15 bucks then I will. The only other option is building a new 700c wheel for the 26" hub motor.

There are not many bike shops that do that. It is possible if I order the spokes and rim I could do it myself but will need to watch a lot more you tube videos. It would be easier to have it done and probably cheaper to put disk brakes on the rear.

Thanks.

LC. out.

8/21/20

I found a bike shop that is willing to work on hub motor wheels and install new brakes but they are extremely busy so will need to drop it off. Also I was thinking about front hub motors on the rear and a single pedal gear. The only way for that to work is a sprocket that will screw on the opposite side the motor wires come out. For that to work I would need to reverse the direction the wheel turns. I don't know if that is even possible. I know that electric scooter parts has #25 screw on sprockets that screw on where a free wheel would go but not sure if they have standard bike chain sprockets.

Looking at the 1,000W 26" hub motor and the 26" dual suspension bike that would not work anyway as disk brakes are the only option in the rear. There is no mounts for V or U brakes. The only chance for a single pedal gear is a screw on sprocket on the side the motor comes out. Not sure if the axle is long enough for that. The 20" bike is in the trunk of the Caddy. It uses standard V brakes. If the motor is reversible I could maybe use a screw on sprocket or hook a sprocket up to where the disk brake rotor would go if it is set up for disk. I will look when I go downstairs. Just please let me know if those hub motors are reversable so I don't burn out the controllers. Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

A disc brake can be (but isn’t necessarily) a good strong reliable brake.

A disc brake attached to a weak, crappy, strapped-on adapter is never a good strong reliable brake.

Click to expand...

OK so if those adapters are crap then where can I find good ones ?

Click to expand...

The only good kind of disc brake mount is the kind that’s built into the frame. If your bike didn’t come with one, and it's a steel frame, and it’s reasonably sturdy, then maybe you can have a disc tab welded or brazed on. Otherwise, use the kind of brake it was set up with originally.

OK.

Now you can see why I want to do this motor swap. And what I will be swapping. The e bikeling motor is a geared 500W motor and light weight compared to a direct drive motor. The 26" dual suspension is a steel frame and very heavy compared to the 700c Giant Roam.

Since the heavy bike needs a lot more power the 1,000W hub motor is a much better match.

Vice versa the little geared hub motor will do better on the lighter 700C bike especially when I add a front 700c hub motor which will be a twin to the one on the back of the lightweight Giant.

You are new to this post and everyone here knows I like doing things my way. HOWEVER I am attempting to do respectable builds from now on so might not get everything my way. I know I can probably run the 1,000W hub ,motor on the front of the heavy 26" bike but I prefer using it as a rear hub motor but that would sacrifice pedal and make it an illegal bike. But everyone agrees that rear hub motors are safer and much better on slippery roads and climbing hills.

I also could just run a front hub motor on the Giant but prefer dual motors as the 500W geared hub motors struggle up hills and could last a lot longer running dual motors.

Thanks and appreciate your helping me with this.

LC. out.

The linear pull brakes on the Giant are nothing special, but should work very well with Kool Stop salmon pads and the appropriate lever. My fast e-bike has linear pull brakes, and it stops at least as hard as any disc braked bike I have tried. The rear wheel skids any time I forget it’s not a rear drum brake like on my cargo e-bike, and squeeze a little too hard.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I think I got lucky.



That is a picture of the rear of the Giant Roam.

That is disk brake ready right ?

That is awesome. I can use the 26" e bikeling geared 500 watt motor on the rear of the 700c giant.

that wont solve the pedal problem with the heavy 26" dual suspension however.It will not be possible to use the 1,000 26" rear hub motor on the back of it and have a pedal gear and rear brakes. I looked it up and hub motors are NOT reversible however pedal cranks are but that frame only supports disk brakes and cant use a pedal crank with a motor if it is not a freewheel. As far as I know bolting a freewheel to a disk brake mount is not possible or is there an adapter ?

If not I will just have to use it as a non pedal bike and hope the police wont notice. They do not seem to care here but am looking to move about 60 miles East of here to the Youngstown Ohio area. I am currently in Canton Ohio but like that neck of the woods a lot better.

I just thought of another option for pedal. If there is a way to leave a pedal chain on the derailleur but not hook it to a cassette or gears I may be able to give the appearance of pedaling. A cop would not even know unless he was up close to the bike. I wish there was a way I could just use the pedals to charge batteries but would probably be very complicated to hook up a small pedal generator if one even exists.

Please let me know if there is any other options. I thought about ordering a rear hub kit and fixing the front 1,000W motor and putting it on the front but I would rather spend my money on new brakes and getting the wheels straightened as I already own four hub motors as well as four chain drive motors.

Thanks.

LC. out.

It might be and/or it needs an adapter for the caliper.

Dan

Balmorhea said:

with Kool Stop salmon pads

Click to expand...

I agree, these are the best brake pads I have ever used, and they come in several different styles, even for disc brakes.

Also, LC, I understand you want to adapt a disc brake because you might change the wheel size, but with all the different bikes and hub motors you have it seems that you would be well served to learn how to lace a wheel. It is a fair amount of work, but very rewarding once you master it. Then keeping your wheels trued is a bonus that you also learn in the process.

I dont have any sand paper. I forgot it when I got the paint. I just did the first coat. The top picture is the shelf I stole from my cabinet. It kind of came with the apartment. It was in the bathroom when I moved in. I had wood left over from the other rack I made for the 20" bike.

Sometimes simple is better. I can mount identical controllers one on each side and most of the wires can be tucked up under between the two sides.

I am not sure if I will be running the front motor until after I move. The front has a quick release rim so will be about 30 pounds less weight to carry up and down stairs. It also has 21 pedal gears so can do better pedal assist up hills than the heavy 26" dual suspension.

I am really not sure if I can just pull the brakes off the 26" bike and install them on the giant though. Also I do not know if I want to take brakes off a fully functional bike. I might want to order a rear direct drive 1,500W motor for the rear of the 26" bike.

That really sucks though as I can't possibly finish the Giant Roam myself. It will need to go to a bike shop for disk brakes on the back.

It looks like the bike shop will be making a lot of money off me as I have so many bikes that need brakes and gears done. Also I am not sure how long the 20" bike will run without getting the hub wheel straightened and I still have only 3 wheels on the Caddy as Mike , the guy fixing it could not find a spare for it so it is on a jack stand and he had a new tire put on the rim he said when I talked to him on the phone earlier today. It also needs the oil changed as there is 5 quarts too much oil in it. He said he will be here tomorrow to work on it.

I might have to find a pair of 20" wheels and pull the gear reduction motor off the Curris and install it on the back of the 20" Turbo. I rode it to Wall-Mart earlier tonight and it seems to be getting worse. That hub wheel needs a professional bike shop or will have to take it off the bike soon I think.



That is the front 700c rim that was on the Giant Roam. Basically The 26" dual suspension bike needs brakes adjusted. The brakes are intact but barley work at all. The guy down stairs said the back caliper might need a new spring or some part. I might just be better off pulling the 26" hub motor off the 26" bike and just riding the Giant Roam with just the front brake as it works perfect and the 26" bike is currently a death trap.

I can ride the Giant with the front brake and rear motor and later on down the road have the rear brake installed at a shop and then install the front hub motor from easy street. However not sure if the front 700c rim is the same as the one in that picture. I hope so as that tire is a little wider than the one on the 700c front hub motor. I definitely can't cheap out on tires and tubes for the Giant Roam build. I will need really quality puncture resistant tires,

Thanks.

LC. out.

as the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo fire Burns. I really hate brakes. Especially disk. They suck.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttSmWo-7apQ&feature=youtu.be


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqzxY-Ko8M0&feature=youtu.be


Yea the disk brake rotor bolts in with two bolts and took five minutes to take it off the 26" dual suspension bike but the video shows what happens when I try to turn the wheel. Complete garbage. Wheel spins perfect with no brakes.

Now you all know why I hate working on brakes. The Giant is a much better and lighter bike but will only have a front brake unless a bike shop can fix it. It looks like it needs a smaller rotor or maybe extra washers between the frame and the axle , or perhaps both. Not sure. All I know is I don't like doing brakes at all and I completely DETEST disk brakes. :x

I remember the nightmare I had to deal with changing the tire on the dual suspension. I barley made it home and had to go to a bike shop to get extra washers to get the wheel to stay on as kept getting hung up on the stupid disk brake caliper.

I guess I will be taking it to the bike shop as I am sick of going down hills with only a front brake. At least with the 20" Turbo I can use my feet for back brakes. :lol:

I should have it running by tomorrow I hope.

The e bikling controller for the 26" hub motor is 36V - 600W and 22 amps.

All I know is from what I remember the same size motor from e bikeling of the 700C wheel seemed about 8 mph faster. I am pretty sure it could hit 26 mph and the motor on the 26" dual suspension I would guess 20 maybe 22 mph tops.

I guess when I put the 700C e bikling motor on the front with a separate throttle and a speedometer I will find out. I do know that this Giant Roam feels just as light as Easy Street , the 700C hybrid so it will go as fast as I want to go on it. Easy street was a scary ride when I got into the throttle.

Note I went faster than that but on smaller bikes where my feet can touch the ground. I fear going down steep hills where my feet can't touch ground. I am not as scared with smaller bikes at around 30 mph on flat smooth ground. It is always inter secting roads , kids and critters that I worry about going fast.

In the city I sometimes go 5 mph on sidewalks to avoid traffic. It is why I prefer a 20" BMX style bike in the city. The 20" wheels don't seem to bend as easily when hitting pot holes either. Basically if I cant put a wider tire on the 700c hub motor I will be selling it. I am probably keeping Easy street for slightly wider tires and a MAC motor in the future. I do not want to put a big heavy direct drive on that bike. I am looking for a geared lightweight hub motor that has about 50% more power and torque than a single e bikeling motor. That would be a MAC.

For now the Giant roam will be my main transportation for distance. I will make sure all pedal gears work and hopefully a bike shop can get the back brake going. It is the best looking bike I own and the most money if I wanted to sell. :lol: Imagine that. I might get buried with it. That bike is not going anywhere. Thanks.

LC. out.

You can’t just stuff in spacing washers willy-nilly when you have disc brakes. The spacing from dropout face to rotor mounting face is a fixed value, and when you mess with it you’ll get problems.

Doing that stuff also fouls your wheel centering, but the symptoms of that are more subtle.

There are three reasons why I hate messing with brakes , chains , derailleurs and pedal gears.

1. Lack of parts. I would need to own a bike shop and hardware store.

2, Lack of tools. same reasons.

3. Lack of mechanical skills.

This also applies to chain drive motors.You all know I like chain drives but hub motors are so much more simple to build an e bike with. No mounting brackets and hardware to deal with, No chain breakers and wheel sprockets.

The most reliable long lasting chain drive was the original Currie upgrade as the 80T wheel sprocket bolted to the freewheel that the stock Currie wheel came with. Spoke sprockets will warp the rim and fail after about 500 miles or less. I also had the motor sprocket fail due to improper alignment.

This don't mean I am giving up on chain drives. It just means that if I run low on funds and stop ordering parts then it becomes an unfinished project and it sits around somewhere collecting dust.

Thanks.

LC. out.

That is what it looks like so far.

When I get up tomorrow afternoon I will be hooking up the DC breaker and testing it. Then hopefully riding it.

I am still getting the front 700c wheel. I might be trading the Caddy for a Dodge Caravan this week. That will solve my problems with the stairs and will be able to get all my bikes here to work on.

!50 bucks later and still have a flat tire on that car and no spare tire. The 80 dollar used tire Mike put on it is leaking air. He was supposed to get a new tire at Wall-Mart.

Mike is on his way to Florida and John , his brother called me earlier today and said he got a van. I think he said it is a Caravan like the one I had but never got on the road. John said the tires are good on it. I will definitely do the trade. That Caddy has been nothing but bad luck.

Thanks.

LC. out.