Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
Colomka said:
Hmm ok, you know the port number can change ?
So It`s not a bad idea to check it before you connect.
You dobbelt check the cables are correct to the Votol, maybe try to swap RX\TX and see if that`s better.
Also 100% sure the Votol got full power from battery and is turned ON.
larsb
1 MW
Colomka said:Were you able to restore the controller? When programming, I had about the same problem( since the previous owner left bare wires. And I didn't even ride the controller I bought. Maybe that's why I can't connect to the controller.larsb said:My votol stopped working today. Reason turned out to be a broken unprotected splice hidden in the main cable sleeve that connected to the throttle +5V
I found it when bike suddenly started working when i tried to program (then USB fed +5V through the splice to the throttle)
48F99570-8B1C-45BE-9A3D-F69A3DF9F5BE.jpeg
Poor workmanship, beware if you get issues like this
It was just to reconnect the wires again and all started working.
Assuming that the controller burned out, I decided to disassemble it. I did not disassemble it for a long time, using flat bits. Inside the controller I have not found when connecting directly the error persists in all the software. I am already ready to pay if they help me connect the controller to the PC.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lScfrDcdLqXFyySyyWO3_SQIflUAKCb
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lScfrDcdLqXFyySyyWO3_SQIflUAKCb
SilentEnduro
10 W
Folks, we are back in game with Votol!
https://youtu.be/AyHSfSWHV1M
https://youtu.be/AyHSfSWHV1M
j bjork
100 kW
liteglow said:
I saw your earlier settings a few pages back, they were totally wrong.
I think I replied then with some of the settings, when it was clear what motor you had.
Have you set up the right settings for the motor now?
They are posted several times in this thread.
Hi and thank you for the reply.
It does not matter, the controller will not receive settings anymore.
If I change something, it goes back to other value after you reconnect.
QS is taking it back, but they are extremely slow returning e-mail. (support is very bad)
So I guess it will take to long time to get it running this summer.
I had my Votol for 3 weeks, and only been able to do 1 test run!!
And it stopped at 60kph.
I hope I never have to see a votol again.... This controller have not lived up to any expectation at all.
WIll never recommend anyone I know to buy it .
larsb
1 MW
Driving motor with wrong parameters can kill any controller. Reason is that it loses control which can cause overcurrent spikes and overvoltage.
One can never be sure what was the true problem with your controller but if i had a business, sold it to you and read this thread then i’m not sure i’d give you warranty.
It’s tough to be in the controller business :wink:
Ps: try to get a .dat file with settings from someone here and reflash your controller with these. It might just wake up. I even think there’s a few uploaded in the thread if the links are still active.
One can never be sure what was the true problem with your controller but if i had a business, sold it to you and read this thread then i’m not sure i’d give you warranty.
It’s tough to be in the controller business :wink:
Ps: try to get a .dat file with settings from someone here and reflash your controller with these. It might just wake up. I even think there’s a few uploaded in the thread if the links are still active.
larsb said:
Well they did tell me controller was "set up" when delivered.
Plugged everything in but motor was only shaking.
AFTER that I plugged in USB and all setting was off, it had 16 poles and surface mount magnet etc...
No doubt for a hub wheel.
I did not drive motor with these settings, but I got "OK" settings from other members on the FB Group.
Motor was doing OK on my test (but I could not get a decent rpm) , it needed more tweaking.
But on the bench trying to adjust settings, controller suddenly stopped to save settings.
When I try to change flux to recommended settings, it "autosave to 60" .
QS said they will take it back for a repair and check.
But they take usually 3-4 days before I got any answers from them.
When I can`t run a controller that works, I can't recommend it either. sadly...
If they can get it running, I will be more than happy to rate it different.
Edit: I have saved my config files, tried to figure out where each settings is within the file.
I changed parameters in the file, uploaded it to controller.
When I log in to my controller, some of the basic settings is saved, but the "flux" parameter settings is not saved.
There was other here on this forum mention that to much changing parameter in the controller breaks it.
It`s that is the case, the controller have a bad fault.
nardcox
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2020
- Messages
- 85
I have the EM150 connected up and everything. However it almost completely doesn't respond to my throttle inputs. If I spin the wheel by hand and give some throttle it gives a small nudge of power but that's it. Does it need to calibrate or something? Might something be 'wrong' with the hallsensor?
EDIT: Just connected it to my laptop. RPM are being counted when I spin the wheel with my hand.
EDIT: It shows it as the EM100 instead of the EM150 which is also stated on the unit itself.
EDIT: It also stopped responding with the little thrusts. Don't know where to start trouble shooting this. If printscreens of the settings are required let me know. These settings have been set from QS Motors as fas as I know. The motor connected however is a standard Super Soco motor from 'Bosch'.
EDIT: Just connected it to my laptop. RPM are being counted when I spin the wheel with my hand.
EDIT: It shows it as the EM100 instead of the EM150 which is also stated on the unit itself.
EDIT: It also stopped responding with the little thrusts. Don't know where to start trouble shooting this. If printscreens of the settings are required let me know. These settings have been set from QS Motors as fas as I know. The motor connected however is a standard Super Soco motor from 'Bosch'.
larsb
1 MW
It’s time, at least for me, to stop posting in this thread since everything just goes round and round and you guys can’t be bothered to read the info, even when the thread contains most or all you need to know already. 
Every motor has to be matched to the correct phase angle setting FOR THAT MOTOR. If you don’t you risk burning your motor and/or controller.
If you have a question how to do it.. read the thread.
Every motor has to be matched to the correct phase angle setting FOR THAT MOTOR. If you don’t you risk burning your motor and/or controller.
If you have a question how to do it.. read the thread.
nardcox
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2020
- Messages
- 85
Thanks. Will make printscreens of all the pages and posted them in the following link (to keep this topic clean):liteglow said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fASHVhmBg7NhmAXn7
I'm sorry you feel this way. I'm the first to admit I'm a rookie at all of this and might ask some stupid question and questions that have been answered a dozen times again.larsb said:It’s time, at least for me, to stop posting in this thread since everything just goes round and round and you guys can’t be bothered to read the info, even when the thread contains most or all you need to know already.
Every motor has to be matched to the correct phase angle setting FOR THAT MOTOR. If you don’t you risk burning your motor and/or controller.
If you have a question how to do it.. read the thread.
Is there a 'post' that contains this kind of info or perhaps the FAQ? We can ask an admin to include this info in the topic start so that all info is gathered in one place. That will make your lives as well as the rookies live much easier. I've read the last few pages but without knowing what to 'search' for it's kind of difficult to get the info that is relevant. I will admit I didn't read all 1070 posts so far.
The "phase angle settings' is specific enough I think, I'll start searching, thanks for the info Lars!
EDIT: So the number of pole pairs and the hall angle seem important.
I'm been searching and found info is scarce... I found one post where someone said the TC motor has 27 pole pairs. That's far from the 16 in my settings...
EDIT: Instead of messing with the settings I've just decided to connect the QS Motor (since the settings should be ok for that one) but no luck either..https://photos.app.goo.gl/x2vQEBhkRR7p1Uj7A
EDIT: I'm thinking it has to do with the throttle input or something. What can I do/measure to check if it's working properly?
larsb said:It’s time, at least for me, to stop posting in this thread since everything just goes round and round and you guys can’t be bothered to read the info, even when the thread contains most or all you need to know already.
Every motor has to be matched to the correct phase angle setting FOR THAT MOTOR. If you don’t you risk burning your motor and/or controller.
If you have a question how to do it.. read the thread.
This thread is 42 pages long.
Can't expect everyone to read 42 pages with mostly wrong answers, or different answers. And if your lucky you can find maybe one setting that is close to what you need.... But not 100%
There should definitely have been a sticky for a motor that is so popular and what setting/gear ratio that is reccomended.
Anyway, my answer is simple: Stay away from any Votol Controller as it sucs.
Controller almost never work directly from factory.
Software and manual have English that is very hard to understand.
Software make no logic sense.
Controller stop working if you try to adjust settings to much.
Many of the settings in the software does not work as they are supposed to do.
And the support from QS is bad and takes forever.
THIS is what I find out after reading every page in this thread, and study all pictures of the settings posted here.
Including 3 different FB groups, and reddit.
No matter how many different users I ask, they all have the same answer, buy a Kelly or any other controller.
And the support in this thread also seems to have stopped, only 2-3 people that reply after some days/week..
Guess most people have sold the Votol or it's dead.
j bjork
100 kW
I think you are the first person I have seen recommend a kelly over the votol 150sp.
I have no personal experience with kelly, but from what I have seen on this forum they dont seem very reliable..
I have no personal experience with kelly, but from what I have seen on this forum they dont seem very reliable..
j bjork
100 kW
liteglow said:larsb said:It’s time, at least for me, to stop posting in this thread since everything just goes round and round and you guys can’t be bothered to read the info, even when the thread contains most or all you need to know already.
Every motor has to be matched to the correct phase angle setting FOR THAT MOTOR. If you don’t you risk burning your motor and/or controller.
If you have a question how to do it.. read the thread.
And the support in this thread also seems to have stopped, only 2-3 people that reply after some days/week..
Guess most people have sold the Votol or it's dead.
I think a lot of the answer is in your quote. The most of the users get tired of answering after a while.
nardcox
10 W
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2020
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- 85
Isn't it an idea that some of the more experienced user write together a small FAQ so save everybody some time and frustration? If most questions have been answered it should mainly be some copy/paste work right?
I'm an active member in several communities (PC Hardware, RC Racing, SIM Racing) and I know it gets frustrating answering the same questions over and over. So in every single community we spend time on gathering the basic data and most FAQ and put it together in the topic start or a sticky depending on the typ of info. Once that's done you get to say things like: RTFM
. Before getting frustrated make sure you've done what you've can to avoid it.
If I would have the knowledge I'd be more than happy to create it, unfortunately I don't and don't want to mis inform people, no info is better than wrong info. I also know there is a document with lots of info but have to say it's often times pretty hard to understand what they actually mean so I think some people here can do better than that. Anyway a small start:
Anyway, if someone can find the time in their schedules to help me get on my way that would be highly appreciated.
I'm an active member in several communities (PC Hardware, RC Racing, SIM Racing) and I know it gets frustrating answering the same questions over and over. So in every single community we spend time on gathering the basic data and most FAQ and put it together in the topic start or a sticky depending on the typ of info. Once that's done you get to say things like: RTFM
. Before getting frustrated make sure you've done what you've can to avoid it.If I would have the knowledge I'd be more than happy to create it, unfortunately I don't and don't want to mis inform people, no info is better than wrong info. I also know there is a document with lots of info but have to say it's often times pretty hard to understand what they actually mean so I think some people here can do better than that. Anyway a small start:
Anyway, if someone can find the time in their schedules to help me get on my way that would be highly appreciated.
larsb
1 MW
nardcox said:Once that's done you get to say things like: RTFM
Thing is that there’s a manual. It’s already ok to just read and use. Most difficulties outside of this are answered already in this thread. So you are too lazy to read a 42 page thread to get help with your issues? That’s only your problem as we don’t work for the Votol support company. Read the frocking manual.
To all users complaining about shitty votols: If they were not programmed before using then it’s your fault or the sellers issue, not Votols.
If controller busts due to this, same.
If you use controller outside of spec, it’s on you also.
When controller locks due to unstable program it’s a shitty votol and it’s been happening for some. Please mind that bartosh and silentenduro, maybe even j bjork and some others are messing with parameters that might kill the controller just to get racing performance. Doesn’t mean you have to do this, need to do this. They take a risk, it’s their issue if controller busts.
I was a fan of the Votols for some time, now i am more hesitant to recommend it. Still way better than a kelly in my experience. I’ve owned and killed five kellys and zero votols during the same type of use.
nardcox
10 W
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Yes, I know, I've read it but missed the trouble shooting part. There are (guess) 100+ settings so kind of difficult to search for the setting that's causing the issue, especially for a rookie like myself. Even with your tip of the pole pairs and phase angle it remains difficult for me to find the problem. As far as I can read the motor should run but just crappy. Mine doesn't do anything, it just sits there (like in the video).larsb said:
Aside from that I can't find any info on pole pairs and phase angle for the super soco motor and QS (17x3.5" 4000W 273 40H V3 960rpm) should be pre-programmed. I've send out 2 mails to both vendors asking for these settings but haven't gotten a response yet. So if anyone knows..
I'm reading the topic, am on page 10 I believe but like I said many things are really difficult to understand with the limited knowledge I have atm. My point on the consolidated posts stands though, I'm a 99% sure not everybody will take the time to read 1.000+ posts to find a solution to a problem that others might answer within 10 Minutes.
I totally agree with you, if a product fails due to user error it's not a shitty product (unless there is an option to prevent users from using incorrect settings). I've seen some video's of people using a Sabvoton controller and the thing was automatically calibrating itself which sounds like an great feature if that means skipping settings like pole pairs and hall angle.
j bjork
100 kW
nardcox said:
This 273?
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/en/article_read/QSMOTOR%2017inch%20273%204000w%2040H%20V3%20Electric%20Motorcycle%20BLDC%20Hub%20Motor%20Price/242.html
In that case it seems to be 16 pole pairs, from the info on the site.
nardcox
10 W
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Yes that seems correct. I was looking on this site which only had the 40mm magnet height.j bjork said:
https://www.qsmotor.com/product/17inch-4000w-scooter-motor/
So settings are probably correct as QS also indicated. They basically said they preprogrammed everything that was required. That's why I'm thinking the problem is not with the battery, bms, controller, motor but with the throttle (which they also supplied). Don't know how I can check that.
Read till page 14, so 1/3th in. Will continue reading later. Will do some searching how to test throttle.
EDIT: I measure ~5,5V connecting the black & red wires together shortly...how can I measure the 'signal'?
EDIT: A black and green cable voltage measurement... I'll give it a shot.
EDIT: 0,0V neutral or full throttle doesn't make a difference.
EDIT: Switched back to the 'normal' throttle and F*CK YEAH it worked. No strange noises perfectly smooth. Downside is that I can't mount the motor in my rear arm because it's too wide. Just placed everything back in the frame and hooked up the regular motor. It's making all kinds of strange noises but it's not moving. At least the throttle is coming through, just need to have the proper motor settings now.