My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

A good morning to all.
Does anyone know the torque specs for the shock, main pivot, clevis and dw-link bolts for the AM1000 5.0?
Does anyone know the brand and model of the dropper post shipping on the AM1000 5.0?
 
JohnnyEppelseed said:
A good morning to all.
Does anyone know the torque specs for the shock, main pivot, clevis and dw-link bolts for the AM1000 5.0?
Does anyone know the brand and model of the dropper post shipping on the AM1000 5.0?

Only thing I’ve managed to find about the rear shock linkage is that in FAT1000 the multiplier is 2.4. Given the similarity to AM1000 the multiplier has to be the same or very close to that. So a 50 mm rear shock generates 120 mm of travel. I’m running a 200x57 coil which was the biggest that could be installed on a FAT. Getting 136 mm of rear travel to go well with my Manitou 150 mm front fork.
 
Good afternoon to all.
Please forgive me, apparently I was not clear in my post regarding torque specs for rear suspension bolts. This might make it more clear.
How much torque for the shock bolts in Nm?
How much torque for the main pivot bolt in Nm?
How much torque for the clevis bolts in Nm?
How much torque for the dw-link bolts in Nm?
Loctite yes/no?
 
I wonder if someone can help with this.

Just assembled a new CC out of the box. It has a dropper post. The dropper post stem functions as it should, but the seat post does not move up in the seat tube (when you release the seat post clamp and try to raise the seat post, it feels like the dropper post cable is holding the seat post down).

I'm wondering what the possible pinch points for the dropper post cable routing might be. For example could the motor be pinching it?
 
No, the dropper post works normally, except if you pull up on the seat post it's functionally the same as activating the lever, which indicates the cable is pinched.

I'm thinking that perhaps one of the folks in here that have assembled their own system that is similar such as with the Dengfu frame and have routed the cables would be able to help.
 
tsellers said:
No, the dropper post works normally, except if you pull up on the seat post it's functionally the same as activating the lever, which indicates the cable is pinched.

I'm thinking that perhaps one of the folks in here that have assembled their own system that is similar such as with the Dengfu frame and have routed the cables would be able to help.
It looks like it would be hard to internally route a dropper cable on a CC frame. Looks like the only place to route through would be right where the tube of the dropper would be. Unusual to have a dropper on a CC but I'm guessing you put it in for convenience between switching to a different rider. Unless your planning on some rough downhill on the CC.
 
Thanks for that, I'll investigate that routing today.

You guessed right on the dropper post. We ordered 4 bikes on the same order, 2 CC and 1 EX for friends, and one for myself, and I just put a dropper on each one of them as a default option. It is mainly my 5'2" spouse that will ride it, and it is a good fit for her with the seat post all the way to the bottom and the dropper post about 1/3 extended. But the ability to accommodate my 6' frame from time to time, which will require the ability to raise the post as well as the dropper, would be a desirable feature.

BTW, another desirable feature of a dropper, even if the rider does not require it, is placing two opposing bikes on a trailer hitch rack. The ability to adjust the seat height allows you to nest the two bikes optimally side by side.

Edit/Update: Got the problem sorted. It does not route via the motor, it goes internally through the crossbar. It seems to work its way back toward the front, and then as it has to make a 90 degree bed, it binds up. The solution is to try feeding it from the entry port on the frame while pulling the seat post up and down and eventually the cable will feed itself back toward the seatpost and the seatpost will come up.
 
tsellers said:
Thanks for that, I'll investigate that routing today.

You guessed right on the dropper post. We ordered 4 bikes on the same order, 2 CC and 1 EX for friends, and one for myself, and I just put a dropper on each one of them as a default option. It is mainly my 5'2" spouse that will ride it, and it is a good fit for her with the seat post all the way to the bottom and the dropper post about 1/3 extended. But the ability to accommodate my 6' frame from time to time, which will require the ability to raise the post as well as the dropper, would be a desirable feature.

BTW, another desirable feature of a dropper, even if the rider does not require it, is placing two opposing bikes on a trailer hitch rack. The ability to adjust the seat height allows you to nest the two bikes optimally side by side.

Edit/Update: Got the problem sorted. It does not route via the motor, it goes internally through the crossbar. It seems to work its way back toward the front, and then as it has to make a 90 degree bed, it binds up. The solution is to try feeding it from the entry port on the frame while pulling the seat post up and down and eventually the cable will feed itself back toward the seatpost and the seatpost will come up.
Yeah that's what I figured. Only place to run it through. That crossbar is too close to the bottom of the dropper tube. Only solution I can see is external routing.
 
My 11 month old FAT1000 frame snapped whilst driving in forest trail. This bike is outright dangerous! Beware!

Rear frame is busted!
 

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:lol: :lol: :lol:

Normal bikes are normal because they're proven to work in the long term.

Cool new stuff is, well, cool. But not necessarily reliable, properly engineered, or a good idea in any way. And it's sold by people who know that their buyers aren't concerned about things like that.

Welcome to being an unwitting product tester!
 
Without any weight on bike the fracture looks like this. Very hard to notice!

Everyone check your vertical rear strut between chainstay and seatstay!
 

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With Thousands of bikes sold this is the first I am hearing of this. You seem to be having more problems than the rest of this board combined. If I was FREY I would buy the bike back from you and not sell you any more bikes. I learned that sometimes you have to fire your customers. I have had my bike over a year and I am extremely happy with the bike and FREY.
 
bugnut said:
With Thousands of bikes sold this is the first I am hearing of this. You seem to be having more problems than the rest of this board combined. If I was FREY I would buy the bike back from you and not sell you any more bikes. I learned that sometimes you have to fire your customers. I have had my bike over a year and I am extremely happy with the bike and FREY.

Why on earth? I drive my bike as it’s designed in adverse conditions except DH-riding. I’ve now ridden 3200km’s with the bike. Never crashed, never fallen. Never jumped the bike in such a fashion that a rim would have bent or tire exploded. Jumped I have but nothing more agressive than on Frey exchange tour Youtube-videos. If it’s advertised to be jumped, then it should tolerate that as well.

These issues will be ahead for all of those that ride their bikes outside roads and streets. This is a mountain bike meant for offroad usage.

During 11 months and 3200 km’s of riding following parts have broken:

-Rear hub freewheel
-Battery connector lock mechanism
-A bearing on rear sviwel (bought new one for myself)
-Battery connector at battery end (bad contact)
-Frewheel and main gear on the motor
-Motor gasket was partially inside the motor from factory. New gasket installed by Innotrace
-Controller (My own fault. Bought the Innotrace one)
-Frame
 
Unfortunately, this is something we should all live in fear of.

Not because Frey makes a bad bike, but because as my professional welder friend pointed out, all aluminum frames that experience torque tensional stress will crack given enough time. That time of course depends on the composition of the alloy. Frey gives the spec for their frames as 6061 aluminum, which is common. Why? Because the stronger alloys such as 7075 and 2014 are almost impossible to weld. Given that the tensional yield strength of the other alternative, 7005 aluminum, is only 5.5% stronger than 6061, and it appears the break happened beside the weld and not in the weld, it really has me questioning if the fracture comes down to the tube shape. A quick Google search seems to indicate that round tubes are stronger than square or rectangular tubes.There is one post on a forum for builders of aircraft frames that suggest square tubes are most likely to fail at junctions rather than flats.

Given the above, I've decided that the best preventative maintenance I can do to prolong this part of my bike frame is go on a diet.
 
tsellers said:
Unfortunately, this is something we should all live in fear of.

Not because Frey makes a bad bike, but because as my professional welder friend pointed out, all aluminum frames that experience torque tensional stress will crack given enough time. That time of course depends on the composition of the alloy. Frey gives the spec for their frames as 6061 aluminum, which is common. Why? Because the stronger alloys such as 7075 and 2014 are almost impossible to weld. Given that the tensional yield strength of the other alternative, 7005 aluminum, is only 5.5% stronger than 6061, and it appears the break happened beside the weld and not in the weld, it really has me questioning if the fracture comes down to the tube shape. A quick Google search seems to indicate that round tubes are stronger than square or rectangular tubes.There is one post on a forum for builders of aircraft frames that suggest square tubes are most likely to fail at junctions rather than flats.

Given the above, I've decided that the best preventative maintenance I can do to prolong this part of my bike frame is go on a diet.

100% true. I doubt it’s coincidence that Frey has changed rear sviwel design in their EX model. EX has a better battery mount system as well.

Unfortunately EX wasn’t an option for me. I’m riding snow trails in winter that’s why I need the frame clearance for fat tires.
 
bugnut said:
With Thousands of bikes sold this is the first I am hearing of this. You seem to be having more problems than the rest of this board combined. If I was FREY I would buy the bike back from you and not sell you any more bikes. I learned that sometimes you have to fire your customers. I have had my bike over a year and I am extremely happy with the bike and FREY.

What a silly statement. Perhaps the reason is he uses the bike as intended. Ever see the electrek clip on the CC? "Yeah, that's a Frey bike". Always makes me cringe. As if these bikes are somehow superior or more suitable to handle the abuse.
 
Ever see the electrek clip on the CC? "Yeah, that's a Frey bike". Always makes me cringe.

Funny, I have a CC, and I had the same reaction, which was repeated when his friend tried to do a wheelie on the shop floor. Although the reviewer probably didn't think much about that statement, that channel lost a lot of credibility to me at least. However I do prefer his channel to EBR, which is the most cringe worthy.
 
Tom said:
What a silly statement. Perhaps the reason is he uses the bike as intended. Ever see the electrek clip on the CC? "Yeah, that's a Frey bike". Always makes me cringe. As if these bikes are somehow superior or more suitable to handle the abuse.

I agree. That user sounds like our banned old ”friend” formula101...

I watched the video. My highest jump ever is less than 1/3 of that!

All my jumps were like this: [youtube]xCZL9m14rjA[/youtube]

This can’t be the explanation.
 
Hi,

you aren't the first to have this issue with the frame, see attached pictures. I first took the pictures to Frey (Ivy) to have it handled under warranty, but it has been nearly 6 weeks and still, I have not been given a date on when I might get replacement parts. This summer has finished early for me due to their delays. Let me add a video to this so you know when it happened: [youtube]https://youtu.be/WuYMRXMJpv0[/youtube]
 

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Oh crap! Same place. Now all of us are paranoid. As well as dieting, I am going to cut my daily beer ration in half as well. Had I known this, as well as all the other spare parts I bought from Frey, I would have ordered a spare rear triangle as well. I guess Frey could not have foreseen this was going to happen, hopefully they have enough resources as well as the will to make this right.
 
Are these breaks happening from serious off road riding? I was still considering buying one for almost entirely on-road use...
 
Hi, everyone im a newbie here and in fact a complete newbie to forums so please excuse my naivety and lack of knowledge. I took the plunge about 2months ago and bought the am1000, I've got a few days to wait until shipping and believe me I've been counting the days in anticipation, but reading these last few posts have got me a bit anxious, is this normal for the frame/triangle to fail.
 
I doubt that it's "normal" for it to fail. I'm trying to find out if it's a substantial risk for road riding, or only for things like jumping.
 
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