new eZip motor

Good to see you are making progress in the right direction, but:::::::::::::::::::::: That outrigger is not going to be hard on your knee?

That outrigger is not going to be hard on your knee?

Click to expand...

No. I sat on the bike and it is forwards enough and don't stick out that much. Plenty of clearance to pedal. The other controller will go on the opposite side for the front motor.

One thing I do know though is that narrow ass seat has to go. I don't know how anyone can sit on such an uncomfortable seat.
The seat on the 26" dual suspension is a little worn so sprayed a little paint on it. I will install it later when completely dry.

I got some really sticky black gorilla tape and cut a few pieces to fit perfectly on the bottom so wires do not hang out from the bottom. I also covered part of the controller but left the part with the e bikeling logo for a more professional look. It is getting dark outside so will hook batteries up tonight to test it but tomorrow is the first run if it don't rain. I will have to check the weather.

The DC breaker is right where it needs to be for an emergency. The power on and of module wont bolt down as handle bars are too large. Also I will need to move throttle to left side as the rear motor wont be used on flat ground. I need the front motor throttle to be on the right as I am right handed and might not be able to control it as well.

I plan on all the pedal gears to work perfect however so will be pedaling on take off then easing into the right thumb throttle for the 700c hub motor and only engaging the left throttle for the rear motor up hills while also pedal assisting. I will probably pedal this bike more than any e bike I have before.

I have a 100 amp DC breaker so will swap it for the 40 amp on the 20" turbo bike when I hook up the 700c motor. It will go on the opposite side the 40 amp breaker for the rear motor is now.

I will have better pictures tomorrow and am trading the Cadillac for a Caravan later this week and going to storage and bringing some bikes down to work on including Easy Street with the 700c motor.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I am ready for a beer. :lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrThDGGGFRM&feature=youtu.be


OK. Seat is installed and rear as well as front lights.

If you look close you can see the spring in the front brake is loose. The brake seems functional but not trusting my life going down a big hill if a car pulls out of an intersecting road.

You can also see the rear brake cable which went to the V or U brakes is unhooked. I am hoping the bike shop can work with it and wont have to run a new line for the disk on the back. If so I might have to unhook the controller and that would suck big time.

The only other thing I will need to address is the battery bag. I think I could use a better looking one. That is an 8P pack. I think it is safe to say 200W each P * 8 = 1,600W. I remember the power meter and seeing over 700W but not remember seeing 800W. The controller is 36V@22A. = 792W 8P should < 1,600W so I should be good. running my old 10P and new 8P packs both is too much weight in batteries. I

don't want a basket on it and what I built is not meant for that kind of weight and space.
Only using rear motor up hills and pedaling will help range. will be efficient as geared hub motors have no drag so two motors are only necessary up hills and the rear motor has no drag on flat when the front motor does all the work.

I have not seen DA. post graphs of power and gearing lately. I am interested to know what his graphs would predict for overall performance. My educated guess would be the front 700c motor will do at least 25 mph on the flat. I am about 90% sure running both front and rear motors on flat ground will NOT increase speed. That is because the front 700c wheel is geared about 4 or 5 mph higher than the rear. Acceleration from 0 to 22 mph would be quicker using both throttles.

I would love to see the power and speed curve going up a long hill though WITH and WITHOUT pedal assist. Is it possible to hook the power meter and make it work with both motors and controllers. Will that diagram work ? DA. can you do a graph with the rear motor assisting up a hill and then add the value of pedal assist ? I know one motor would not go up a really steep hill but not a lot of steep hills here in this part of Ohio. I am just wondering how it should theoretically perform.

I ran direct drive and geared hub motors. I don't know why they make direct drive. Geared is better power to weight ratio. Why don't they just make bigger geared hub motors. Direct drive hubs are heavier than DC chain drive motors.

Anyone here on ES knows I have been experimenting with dual motor e bikes awhile now. I got dual motor 20" chain drive in storage to test out soon. :lol: Made a video years ago going up the hill I burnt the original 450W Currie motor.

I will dig up my Cannon camera and can test the graphs. I comprehend your scientific data when you said that 800W hub motor was a heavy hauler about 4 years back. That motor is strong up hills. The little e bikeling motors are more efficient but not up hills. They lack the torque. But two e bikeling motors and some pedal assist should prevail.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I checked the tire size on the front wheel currently on the Giant Roam and it is 700C * 40C.

I checked tire widths for 700c rims on google search and saw that the smallest is 25c and there is 28c as well as 38c. I would guess the tires on Easy Street to be 25c or 28.

I want to run 40C and if wont fit then 38c and nothing smaller. I also saw they have tubeless tires. I am rather skeptical on those.

I am looking for really good quality puncture resistant tires and tubes. I can't afford a flat tire 10 or 20 miles from home.

Please let me know what the top of the line tires and tubes will be.

Thanks.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=94555

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ebikeling-Waterproof-36V-500W-26-Geared-Front-Rear-e-Bike-Conversion-Kit/143647137468?hash=item2172095ebc:g:ZfMAAOSwROtefjOG

I found that when doing a google search. That is different from my current build as I am going to run two motors and controllers.
My build will climb hills better with two motors, I looked at the specs. of the kit.

It does not reccoment 40C tires for the 700c rim. All I know is if I cant put at least 38c tires on that rim it will be a deal breaker. I will sell the 700c motor. I hate tires that skinny.



I am not getting rid of Easy Street just because I am taking the front hub motor off it. Eventually it will be getting an upgrade.

https://lunacycle.com/mac-motor-asi-high-performance-hub-kit/



I should be able to hit 40 mph right ? I just can't cruise that fast. Cruising speed is about 30 mph right ?

I might order that the minute the second stimulus checks come in.
Thanks.

LC. out

NO 6turn!!!!!!! Not for you. Weak low end power and heats up too fast. Not great on hills and you should be pedaling on all starts. Would be ok on a 24" wheel but not a 26 and larger wheel. Yes you could get your 40mph out of it since I have seen 40mph with my 8turn and 15s or 55.5 nominal. You want a 8t or 10t in that motor. My 12t on 66,6v does just over 31mph.

I put a 700 x 54 0n my wife's bike 5 years ago. but here is a smaller one https://www.amazon.com/Continental-...T0RV8J&psc=1&refRID=ACTPNEF0EB4RCFT0RV8J&th=1

Dan

OK. I may as well get two for both front and rear for that price. Thanks for posting that link. I should probably order those for every bike I have.

I might just order a direct drive motor for the back of Easy Street if I do get a van. I don't mind heavy motors on bikes as long as I don't have to haul them up stairs.

It might be awhile before I upgrade Easy Street. I still have a lot of other bikes to deal with. I still have that 1,800W brushless motor as well as four brushed chain drives in storage to deal with.

Right now I am waiting until the first of next month and need to upgrade my e bay account with a new card for payment. I really hope I get that van as I want to go to storage. I have to decide what I can build with parts I already got.

The first thing I will order though is those tires and tubes.

6:46 PM.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. new eZip motor / Left Thumb Training. 8)

The thing about a front hub motor is throttle at take off. The Currie currently has a 750 watt gear reduction motor. It is a 36V motor. It is a rear chain drive. I have the magic light touch with my right thumb so switch the throttle so the rear is on left for the chain drive. I can practice the light touch with my left thumb on the chain drive for take off if I don't pedal at take off. The Currie is pedal assist (manual pedal and throttle). If I screw up and the chain pops off the rear motor the front hub motor has a separate battery pack and controller and pedal chain.

It is not a secret that I like to build all wheel drive e bikes. None so far have gone 30+ mph but they do climb hills and posted videos years ago. I succeeded in building dual motor e bikes.

I burned out my first original e bike motor on the Currie. I rode it about a year on the original motor and upgraded the batteries and controller to 36V from 24V then burnt out the motor. It is the first pages of this post.

I think that the best place for the 1,000W front 26" motor SUNDER sent is on the front of the Currie. I will run the old 10P - 36V packs for the gear reduction motor and the new LiPos for the hub motor which will also be 750W@36V because the hub motor is rated at 1,000W@48V.

Since both brush and brushless motors are 750W then gearing should not be significantly different. Since both motors are geared for approximately 25 mph at full charge 42V and 21 mph at 36V The bike will be the most powerful and reliable long range cruiser and an animal up hills. The same thinking with the Giant Roam for efficiency by running the front motor exclusively on flat and decline and only engaging the rear motor upon take off and if increased acceleration is necessary.

That is my next build after the Giant Roam. I would like to sand and paint the Currie and order new stickers. It is my first e bike and a solid frame. I just need to have the van as it would be impossible to haul it up two flights of stairs.

After that the third build will be the 1,800W brushless motor@60V and 43 mph. The dual motor chain drive 20" bike in storage. It has a 500W and a 800W chain drive. It worked as the 500W-24V hooked to 80T #25 sprocket and chain and the 800W 36V motor on front was 56T #40 chain. This is history and full functional bike 30 mph @ 36V and 1.550W total and approx 30 mph gearing. I will ride and test before pulling the motors for the 60V 2,250W brushless motor upgrade. It will be rear chain drive.

Both the 500W and 800W brush motors will be for the bikes I am giving to John and Mike. The guys that got my storage to Ohio. I got too many bikes. They are getting the Clear Creek Schwinn for John and the 27" Diamond Back for Mike as he ie 6 foot 4. I am keeping my vintage 26" Diamond Back outlook and 20" viper frames. Future builds or future wall decorations. Also keeping the Haro V3. Getting rid of about everything else. Like to get rid of storage bill.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

The thing about a front hub motor is throttle at take off. The Currie currently has a 750 watt gear reduction motor. It is a 36V motor. It is a rear chain drive. I have the magic light touch with my right thumb so switch the throttle so the rear is on left for the chain drive.

Click to expand...

Thumb throttle is OK for low watt motors but for precision control you would want a half-twist throttle.

Thumb throttle is OK for low watt motors but for precision control you would want a half-twist throttle.

Click to expand...

I never liked twist or half twist throttles. The Currie came with one when I bought it. The thumb throttle was one of my first upgrades.

I saw the van today I will be trading for the Cadillac. It is a Crysler Town and Country. It has decent tires not flat like the Caddy. It seems to run good. It has 220k miles but don't matter. I wont be driving it much. If it can go another 20k I will probably have it 5 years from now.

I will be getting my storage. I have to build two chain drive bikes for John and Mike. John is a little impatient. I am not sure how I am going to make it work. Not sure about a battery either. I really need to do the best I can with what I have as I have so many projects.

I am not sure if I am ready to build wheels with dual drive hubs. Not sure how much the spokes and rim are. The hubs are 36 bucks I think. A new Currie wheel is 120 at least so wont be able to order two. I have 56T and 60T spoke sprockets but are #40 chain and still not large enough for 26" wheels. I really do not know how I will accomplish those two builds.

I remember discussing belt drives awhile back instead of chain drives for 26" wheels. Does anyone happen to know the exact part needed to replace the motor sprocket ? I remember seeing a kit with hardware and what looked like a rim with no spokes which bolted to the rear bike rim for the belt. Not counting the hardware installing a belt drive should only be three major parts. The rim the belt uses , the wheel that replaces the motor sprocket and the belt. I do know that the FX 75-5 motor is belt driven so know they are capable of going faster than 30 mph.

If anyone knows if all that comes in one kit or if there is a link for separate parts please post if possible. I also have been told by Dan many times how a high speed chain could do damage to me if it were to come off at say 30 to 40 mph. If I can use belt drives instead of chain perhaps that would be safer. I know it is difficult to deal with proper gearing using 26" wheels , 50+ tooth sprockets and I hate breaking chains so any and all help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I have been looking at bicycle push trailers as well as side cars awhile. I really want something in between. It don't need to haul cargo or people. It would be perfect if it could hold SLAs for weight on the wheel and the motor could be under the batteries and controller so if the chain did pop off at high speed it could not do any damage to the rider.

What I don't like about push trailers and side cars is the size. It only needs to be large enough for motor and controller and batteries on top and should be able to bolt to the bike in about 5 minutes or less. If I want to haul cargo that can be accomplished with a rear rack and a bolt on basket or saddle bags.

What do you guys think. It would definitely solve my gearing issues , motor mounting and wheel sprocket issues. I am sick of always coming back to the same issues when this post started which is pairing a 2,500 or 3,000 rpm motor with a 26" bicycle wheel. As it takes an 80 tooth wheel sprocket to get anywhere close to proper gearing and that is with cheap #25 chain.

I wish I could eliminate the trailer or side car all together and bolt a small wheel to where a mid drive motor would go in the center bottom of the frame with the batteries and controller built into a triangle rack. Then hook the chain up to the third wheel which would be close to the bike rear wheel which would look much better than one that sticks out a foot or two. I have never seen anything done like that but would like to.

Another idea would be building a large super heavy duty rear rack which I could bolt it to a front fork or cut off the back frame of a scrap bike and bolt it to the rear rack and put the smaller electric wheel behind the bicycle rear wheel. I could probably use flat steel bar as long as it is wide and thick enough and drill holes for a 20" or 18" bike wheel. The motor could bolt to the heavy duty rear bike rack. (bottom pic).

Please let me know what you guys think. Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Push trailer. blueprints.


I am still in the planning stage but just called a bike shop and they are out of stock on 185 mm axles. I will look online. They only charge 30 bucks to change out an axle. That will make installation a snap. Two axle nuts and a thumb throttle connector to convert a bike to electric. I just need to find go cart wheels now and look at the different sizes for desired gearing.

The unit wont be any larger than needed. It will be compact and by design safe as motor placement can be very close to the wheel axle. The drive chain can be very small and shielded so if it did come off it would not injure the rider. I can use cheap SLAs or a large lithium pack. I could also use smaller chain as it wont be as long. #25 or 8mm chain should do the trick.

I can use 3 or 4 SLAs and have the option to switch to lithium later on. I will be building two. One for the Clear Creek Schwinn and one for a 27" DimondBack. I will probably build one for myself sometime after that also and maybe use the 1,800W brush-less motor. Not sure. I know I wont need SLAs as I can use both the old 36V - 10P packs and switch to the new 8P - 36V packs. There needs to be some weight over the drive wheel for traction.

The design will need to be compact and the controller or controllers will be built in. It should take less than 5 minutes to bolt it to the rear axle and plug in the thumb throttle and the cost to build it should be less than a wheel sprocket and stock Currie wheel. I might be able to build three for the price of a 120 buck dual drive Currie wheel and 80 or 90 tooth sprocket to bolt to it. I will never have to deal with impossible gear ratios again with high RPM electric motors and chain alignment and possible mishaps such as chains popping off.

I wish someone would post. I will be researching DIY push trailers as I am looking for a simple effective design. I know that companies are working on electric wheels with the controller and batteries built in but it is not common. What I plan to do will be better and more versatile as large cargo baskets or even a large Coleman cooler could stack on top. I plan on having a platform to bolt stuff to over top of the motor and controller for batteries. It will accommodate larger battery packs if needed.

I think the design without the rear rack will look much better and easier to do. What do you all think ?
Please post when you can. Thanks.

LC. out.

I'm reminded of the time I put a hub motor in a 16" wheel, and mounted it in a kids "half bike" trailer (after removing all the extraneous bike parts).

I attached the trailer tongue high on the seatpost, so motor drive would tend to push the little wheel into the pavement. Despite this, the motor wheel would spin a lot on startup, and kick out sideways going around curves. It also had an annoying speed wobble at a not very high speed when the trailer was pushing.

I fitted big heavy wire baskets to the trailer frame, which improved traction a little, but lowered the speed at which wobble became a problem by a lot.

I don't think your idea is practicable. If the motor wheel mounting is rigid, then any unevenness in the surface will lift one of your rear wheels off the ground. If they're both in contact, they'll fight the bike when it turns (one tire will scrub). And if the motor wheel mounting is made flexible to maintain contact with the ground, it will lack enough traction to provide a satisfying amount of power, because most of the weight will be on the other wheels. And like I discovered, a flexible mounting is likely to wobble at speed when power is applied.

If you want to use a pusher trailer, make it a two wheeler, and hitch it near the bike's rear axle. And don't expect drive power that's out of proportion to the amount of weight on the trailer's drive wheel(s).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJG5u-QawaI


OK. That makes sense I guess. That video has been on youtube for awhile. It should not be difficult to build that with a chain drive motor. It looks like a smooth ride. I will also be looking at other videos. I like the axle mount better but what works the best and is test proven is the way I should go.

I will continue to research. I like that video as it is really quick to hook and unhook it. Keep posting guys. This is a big move for me but I believe for all the right reasons.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLvtmrcplGc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HLbWHTiLrZs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yb9T6q-17gk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJTdTl62B0Y

There are a lot of different options also besides a push trailer. Welding a bracket to the frame for a motor close to the wheel looks awesome also. I am just looking for the best design at the lowest price.

Thanks.

LC. out.

8/31/10:44 PM.

https://www.bikeexchange.com/blog/road-bike-wheels-what-to-know

Yea I am still dumb when it comes to bicycle parts. I really did not know the difference between an axle and a hub. When I called the bike shop about changing the axle to a longer one for a push trailer they said 30 bucks to change an axle. I got to thinking would it be extra to change the hub also.

It looks like the hub comes with the axle. I will call tomorrow and see how much to install. #25 chain and bolt on freewheel sprockets are tested and proven to be reliable under 1,000W as I rode the Currie for about two years with the 80T sprocket and 1,000W unite brush motor at 36V and 750W.

The 26" Schwinn can use an 80T #25 sprocket and the larger 27" bike the 90T which I can order at Electric scooter parts. I have a 1,000W unite motor and will be geared exactly like the Currie was , about 24 mph. I will calculate the 27" bike with the 800W 36V brush motor.

The 26" bike will go 24 mph like the Currie and will be 750W and the 27" bike will be geared for 27 mph @ 800W. That is what I should do instead of a push trailer however I still have the 500W 24V motor that is 2,500 RPM. At 36V RPM will be 3,750. For a 26" wheel I would need a wheel sprocket larger than 100 tooth. That moter then can be my push trailer experiment. That leaves the Currie with the 750W gear reduction motor. That might be perfect for the front of a 20" bike and the Currie can get the 1,800W brush-less motor @ 60V and 43 mph.

#40 sprockets for the wheel is a lot of money and so is standard bike chain but 8mm is about 1/4 as much money so





Thanks.

LC. out.

I think you're looking for friction drive. I even saw one fella who took an electric scooter wheel and pressed it down onto his rear wheel, quite far back on his rear wheel, I think behind a rear rack, probably attached to the back of it. It was a few years ago when I think I saw a video of it.

People have had trouble with getting grip of the friction drive wheel onto bike tire. I like how a rubber drive roller grips, and that solved it for me. I have the impression that this

Rear Wheel with 2.80/2.50-4 Tire and Tube
Rear steel electric scooter wheel with 2.80/2.50-4 tire and tube, 90mm band brake, 55 tooth sprocket with freewheel, rim, two wheel bearings, bearing spacers, axle, wheel adjusters, and mounting hardware. Fits version 41 and up of the Razor® E300, E300S, and E325 electric scooters.
Item # E300-REARWHEEL3

would work. It's from the scooter wheel page at https://electricscooterparts.com/electricscooterwheels.html It has a freewheel in it. I had bought one once to try doing it, but never got around to trying it.

I do want to build a friction drive but with a small RC motor. I saw a picture earlier on in this post. It was not a large rubber wheel but a tiny but mighty RC motor bolted to the frame and driving the rear wheel I think. It could have been the front. I will look for the picture or a similar one.



If it is possible to have dual drive hubs installed for around 70 bucks it would be much cheaper than 120 for a rear Currie wheel. The reason is the rear Currie wheel is test proven to work unlike a push trailer or a friction drive.

I would prefer a belt drive for those two or three builds I mentioned but can't find the post where the spoke less rim bolted to the rear wheels rim and don't know the exact part for the motor. I was hoping for a link to that.

Basically at some point in time I want to build every possible type of e bike. Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

You're welcome. I also had a currie wheel that I hoped to try out. I don't think it's a bad way to do it.

I thought about band drive with a narrow pulley, which is a little different from a belt. The part where the band goes in a narrow pulley looks like it could be functional. However, I found that when I drove the band with a rod, threaded or not, the band would move sideways on it and get jammed.

latecurtis said:

I would prefer a belt drive for those two or three builds I mentioned but can't find the post where the spoke less rim bolted to the rear wheels rim and don't know the exact part for the motor. I was hoping for a link to that.

Click to expand...

https://www.bikeengines.com/shop/drive-rings-36-spoke/

You can get wheel sprockets, belts, and motor sprockets from these folks. They're stinking gas bike mongers, though, so no help with electric motors.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns, New ebay card.

My life is a slow motion deal as far as e bike workshop goes. I am not only dealing with 3 flat tires on the Caddy but the battery went completely dead about a week ago. The van I was supposed to trade needed a radiator and will need brakes. Hopefully some point in time I will have the van. I had a smart charger for 3 amps to charge the car battery but was a smart charger (not very smart) and could not charge as was below 6V. The meter read about 2.5V. So bought a 12V only 1 amp charger at Wall-Mart and the next day was at 11.4 so switched to the 3 amp smart and at 60% now. Tomorrow I will have access to the trunk and the 20" turbo.

Obviously something is draining the battery so will be unhooking the negative terminal when not running the car. I wont be keeping the 20" bike in the trunk any more either. I will be able to pump the tires up with the little compressor which plugs in the cigarette lighter.

The Giant Roam still needs a rear disk caliper installed and have not been riding it until I have it done at a bike shop. At least the Turbo has a working front brake and can use my feet for rear brakes as is a 20" bike and am only 5 foot 8. Also COVID 19 put me back health wise. I was at 215 and working out but stooped when the YMCA closed and in 7 months went back up to 225 so started walking 5 to 6 miles a day about 5 days ago and am finally getting a weight bench and dumbbells tomorrow at Wall - Mart as found out the exact time it will be stocked so can get them before sold out.

I do not have the money just yet for the tires but will be ordering them next. I will need new torque arms which I ordered to finish this build and will most likely put the 1,000W direct drive hub motor (once the rim is fixed) on the front of the 26" dual suspension.I am not putting it on the back but may order a 26" 1,000 hub motor for the rear also but must have the same specs as the one on the front that SUNDER sent so I can use one throttle for both controllers.

I ordered the torque arms so I have enough or extra but need to know if there is additional hardware such as washers and replacement axle nuts just in case. Please let me know. Also if SUNDER knows what the specs. are on that front motor as if I order a rear 26" motor in the future I want the gearing to be the same and how to hook a single thumb throttle to two controllers and both motors need to run off 36V. I think I run that front hub motor at 36V but has been so long I am not 100% sure as I may have used the LiPo packs DAN sent as they were in series for 44V. If so I may want to order a 2 killowatt 36V - 48 or 60V variable controller to run two 48V - 1,000W 26" hub motors but if they will work with 36V I can save money as long as a single thumb throttle will work.

Thanks.

LC. out.

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.


Does anyone here ever post anymore ????????????????????????????????????




Yes. I like that idea however not the price tag. Is it possible to DIY a recumbent conversion for 200 or less. I saw recumbent bikes when I lived in NY but were way too low to the ground. I like a height so can see better but prefer the comfort and front pedal of recumbent as my right knee was supposed to be replaced 6 years ago, I can walk 5 miles but pedal is limited as cannot bend my knee at a 45 degree angle. Only a slight angle. Maybe 22.5 degrees maximum. I am strongest with only a slight bend of the knee. Also the more I bend it the worse it will hurt. I can bend it a little.

That would also solve my problem with using the 1,000 watt front hub motor SUNDER sent on the rear as the rear is disk brake and the front would be pedal making it 100% legal by state and federal laws as 1,000W @ 48V = 750W @ 36V. As long as the controller will work at 36V.

I am thinking of a front 26" wheel with pedal crank and when I build a triangle rack for the controller building the framework to mount a recumbent seat like in the picture. I have electric mask and face shield as well as a car soon so Home Depot or Lowes home improvement for hardware is not a problem. I just need to order the seat and a front 26" wheel with a pedal crank, It may have a geared 3 speed hub but not important as long a one gear is a good all around pedal gear.

Please post if possible. I am getting my tires on the Cadillac done tomorrow. I have been pumping them up every 2 days as I have 3 leaking. The tire shop is putting a new tire on the front for 45 bucks to match the 80 dollar tire on the drivers side. They are also sanding the rims and sealing the tires so they do not leak for 15 a wheel and guaranteeing their work. 75 bucks + tax.

The hold up has been the car. I charged the battery and got it running last week, There is a drain on the battery for some reason so I unhook the negative battery terminal when not running the car. Once I find a spare or a donut I will be taking the 1,000W motor to a shop to get the rim fixed and going to storage to get e bike projects to work on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pefj4hjcIPM

I don't know what to make of that video. I never rode a recumbent bike. I would want front chain drive though like the picture, That is rear drive. I am not getting how the steering works without handlebars. Also is it possible to have the pedals on the front axle and not have the seat lean back as much. I need to be higher up and have handle bars like a normal mountain bike but with the front pedal. Some kind of a hybrid. The seat will lean back but be adjustable like the incline weight bench I bought. In the city I can sit more straight up and on road trips on roads going a distance I can decline a little but need the handlebars for throttle , speedo , power meter. ect.

I will be building a triangle rack for the 26" dual suspension I plan on converting to recumbent if that is at all possible. Please post and let me know if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks.

LC. out.

https://www.ebay.com/i/153853663605?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=153853663605&targetid=935065067187&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1023608&poi=&campaignid=10876471603&mkgroupid=107964302620&rlsatarget=pla-935065067187&abcId=9300401&merchantid=8457064&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIH7BRAbEiwAoDxxTtC7Y7ugkLIdRRO2hLjHgHEFAcC-6GSK0WC3AMRcBU2A5A14sbxCHhoCGgsQAvD_BwE

http://funicycle.com/magasin/unicycle-c-171/unicycle-spares-c-171_2/hubs-c-171_2_18/hub-quax-36-holes-standard-cotterless-bearing-pitch-100mm-p-313.html?zenid=n9rhgbnosklkm02ujk1h5eu007

9/15/20

Unicycle wheels are available but not in 26" or at least not very common. Lots of 20" and 24". Cheap on e bay and around 50 bucks. Best bet is the unicycle hub and pay 30 to 50 bucks for a bike shop to install it. As for the seat , the one with a backrest is a post seat and probably wont work. I will need a adjustable back rest that can slide on the top rail of the bike frame and slide backwards or forwards 4 to 5 inches so easier to pedal and can adjust the seat back for long road trips. I can see in my mind how it could be done but am not sure where I would get the parts from.



It really looks good and simple on a diagram. Only thing missing is how to keep it in place after sliding back and forth.

Oh. One other thing missing. Ambition. I drank beer until daylight and slept most of the day. I did not even roll out of bed to get my tires done on the car. I am a lazy alcoholic.


Thanks.

LC. out.

I'm still here.
NO on the unicycle wheel. You would be spinning the crank faster than you could pedal. Does not freewheel so the crank spins all the time.

Do you have a link to the picture of the front chain drive?

I don't think you would like the seat on Ebay.

The concern with the front pedal up high is that you might drop a foot off the pedals and fall. My old recumbent didn't have pedals that high and it was still important to keep your feet on the pedals all the time. Also tricky to get your feet up on starts.
I also don't like laying low for vision of you and the cars around you.

Dan

NO on the unicycle wheel. You would be spinning the crank faster than you could pedal. Does not freewheel so the crank spins all the time.

Click to expand...

The unicycle wheel is a freewheel.

Also if the back is adjustable you can sit higher in town or traffic and lower on long roads out of town.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQZaVPI_pH4&t=443s

This forum is awesome. Since I parallel up all the old 36V lithium packs for 10P I am getting much more power and range expecially with that little 20" hub motor on the little 20" turbo bike.

I rode it 5.6 miles yesterday to Wall-Mart and back and was 40V when I got home and 42.1V before I left.

That is telling me I can get 15 miles with no pedal as long as not many hills to go up. The little bike is fun and since I can pop out the back seat of the Caddy as the battery is under the back seat I have the negative terminal unhooked so it wont drain the battery,

All I have to do is unlock the drivers door with the key and the rear seat fits in the front and can unlock the rear door by pulling up the thing and a piece of cardboard covers the battery and the bike slides in the back perfectly. It is actually easier than pulling it out of the trunk.

I am walking 5 to 6 miles about 5 days a week for my health and to lose weight. I already took the 20" bike for a spin about 4 miles a little while ago to the medical Cannabis store. :lol: Now it is time to get exercise. I dont really need a recumbent bike or anything more than my little 20" bike but I love building e bikes. It is my hobby and keeps me out of trouble.

I think the idea of a cheap inexpensive hybrid recumbent is a good idea and if we can figure it out would be a great road bike for long distance. A 1,000W rear hub motor is perfect for around Ohio as not many steep hills. Certain parts of NY or climbing mountains I would go with a 1,500W rear hub motor.

Thanks for posting and hope you all can check in on my new idea. It will have brakes and be safe and is NOT one of my 40 or 50 mph hair brain schemes so would appreciate any positive feedback.

I have to get my walk on now but will check in when I get back. I will be building some sort of triangle mount for the 1,000W controller on the dual suspension maybe later tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks.

LC. out.

9/16/20 - 12:43 AM.

I guess it really don't matter if I have working pedals or not. For one thing all motorized bikes are legal around here. A lot of people ride gas powered bicycles and are NOT pedaling. It is one of the main reasons for moving to Ohio. A guy on a dirt bike did at least a 15 second burn out about 10 feet away from me near the Wall-Mart parking lot tonight. They ride them around all the time and a guy rides a mini bike around right down the street.

I just thought a recumbent hybrid would be a good idea but I am not investing much money in it. If I happen to be able to get the parts cheap like an exercise bench and the parts for a freewheel pedal then I will go from there but not spending much over 50 bucks. It will be 50 bucks probably just to fix the bent rim on the 1,000W hub motor.

I checked my e mail and my torque arms are at the post office. Hopefully it won't be long before the dual suspension 26" mountain bike is back on the road with the 26" front hub motor on the back.

Awhile I was walking home I got to thinking and decided I will be putting the 800 watt 36V chain drive brush motor that is on the 20" dual chain drive cargo bike in storage on the front of the Currie that has the 750W gear reduction motor on the back. If anyone is wondering why. It is because I can. At 48V the total power will be 2,016W and will be gearing it for 40 mph. 800W / 36 * 48 = 1,066
750 / 36 * 48 = 1,000.

Two reasons why.

1.) because I can.

2.) I already have one 48V brush controller and a second one will be about 20 bucks vs. 125+ for a variable 36 - 60V brushless controller for the 1,800W brushless motor. for the gear reduction motor I can change the 20T freewheel to a 16 tooth and wont need to change the 11T motor sprocket and order a 20 dollar controller , a 72 tooth wheel sprocket and 14T motor sprocket.

I would have to order a 8mm wheel and motor sprocket anyway for the 1,800W brushless motor as well as a 60V battery pack and a 125 buck controller. I will save a ton of money. I will build the brushless chain drive some other time.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

I guess it really don't matter if I have working pedals or not. For one thing all motorized bikes are legal around here. A lot of people ride gas powered bicycles and are NOT pedaling. It is one of the main reasons for moving to Ohio.

Click to expand...

Awesome, you found one. Be on the lookout for another.

It sure seems that the one you listed is direct not a freewheel. The video is a rework or special build.

Doesn't matter I guess, you can do what ever you like, like the rest of us. As long as you enjoy doing it, why not.

Dan

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. I feel about useless.

"Meir Kryger, MD, an expert in sleep disorders at Yale Medicine, says that "being tired in the daytime and energetic at night is usually caused by circadian rhythm abnormalities," explaining that it means that "a person's body clock runs late and they have a burst of energy in the evening."

That makes sense. It is why I came up with the name latecurtis. :lol:

Drinking beer don't help either. I slept all day again and did not even get to the post office to pick up my torque arms. The garage also closed at 5 PM and I just rolled out of bed a little while ago and am on my second cup of coffee.

It started way back in 2003 when I started washing dishes from 4 PM until 11PM and did so about 9 out of ten years. Finally I got fired in 2013 for being late and went on unemployment and then welfare for two years and then disability. I have major mental health issues dating back to childhood as well as pending knee replacement , back surgery , shoulder surgery and heart surgery and battling type 2 diabetes . On top of all that I am a lazy alcoholic.

My car has three flat tires now and still have not been to a garage. The temporary tag expires tomorrow, Motor vehicles closes at 5 PM also and have to come up with 50 bucks for hard tags or metal license plates.

I really don't want to be bothered with life stuff. :lol: I am sick of watching the news. China sucks and made the whole world sick. I am so tired of hearing about their bio weapon and the protesters trying to tell everyone they have to say something. Frankly at this point I really don't care.

I would just like to move way out in the middle of the woods with two reliable motor vehicles and grow a bunch of weed , get drunk every night and watch rated B sy fi movies at night and build electric bicycles that go 40 and 50 mph and maybe even an electric 4 wheeler that will do about 90 with the FX-75-5 motor.

Unfortunately I don't have the ambition to make that all happen so will continue to hide in my house and go for walks every day and drink beer every night. I do not want any part of modern day society. I have no faith at all in modern day youth. I see and hear them walking down the street with no masks on thinking everything is a big joke.

They can't even complete a single sentence without saying the N word. They are not at all intelligent but dis functional illiterates and juvenile delinquents. If that is the future of our country and they will be in charge in 10 or 20 years we may as well just start a full scale nuclear war and get this world over quick.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Ouch!!!!

Dan