New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

mctubster said:
feketehegyi said:
mctubster said:
feketehegyi said:
fyi, video about 2nd version of my Android app with new feature: digital throttle.

Very cool, was unaware of this simple patch against the original firmware. Is your Android app able to datalog out of interest?

Cheers

Thank you! I'm not sure what do you mean with your question. If you were meaning to log data into file then yes, it can write data out into .csv format.

Correct - Log data into a file. Are all the values you display available? At what frequency can the data be logged? I want to capture some real time data from the original firmware. I assume the Opensource firmware is using a completely different data structure (ie this will only work for the original firmware)? Cheers

Yes, all data is available. I use now one second frequency. But it can log more frequently as well.
 
Are there solder pads under the rubber here? How are the red and black wires connected to the coil?
I want to disconnect them without cutting the wires if possible.
 

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sysrq said:
I was referring to graphical representation of current profile/curve.

OK. I had a look at the WM150. Not something I would put on a bike unless you can bypass if something goes wrong. I just use my ear's to work out how much current my motor is using ;)
 
famichiki said:
Are there solder pads under the rubber here? How are the red and black wires connected to the coil?
I want to disconnect them without cutting the wires if possible.

So I took a chance and removed the silicone rubber. Yes there are solder pads for the torque sensor coil under there and it looks like the best place for disconnecting the wires if you want to replace the roller bearing.
 

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Griepje said:
When i really tighten the tzdz2 in the bottom bracket it starts to rattle when the motor is off or soft pedaling, giving a lot of recistance, is that only me or is this a normal behaviour? I read some posts from people that tightened the last bit with soft strokes with a hammer.
Are you sure that the motor on the sprocket side does not touch the chain stay? If so, you need to insert spacers! Yes, I also tightened the silver nut with a rubber mallet!
 
trying to mount a tsdz2 but the opening for the internal cables is interfering with the fit. but the real problem is that I have to tilt the motor so far back there is no room for the fixing block. are there any alternatives? I will try ton include pictures when I get home
 
Damn i am having alot Of bad luck on vacations with my tsdz2 😅, first it Lost tbe firmware, bought a new cable and reprogramed it. Then when i went for a Ride sodently it became damn hard to pedal (like real hard), even with the motor off . Limped home and opened it, but i cant find anything bad. If i remove the motor (and leave just the blue gear ) i can pedal easly (by hand), if i put it back its again hard to pedal. The blue gear seems ok, the motor also , if i put the blue gear and the shaft in the motor and try to move them by hand There is resistance but but way less .
Can someone Help me on This? Blue gear is kaput, motor is semi kaput ?
 
Anyone been able to increase the pedal responsiveness of the OSF 1.0v similar to that of the stock TSDZ2? I really like the overall performance of the OSF and its total power delivery, but trying to overcome the 3-4 pedal turns for the assist to initially kick in or kick back in from coasting. The stock unit seems much more instantaneous than the OSF. However, if this is the difference in nature between the two, I will stick with the OSF hands down due to it's feature richness. Trying not to go overboard with tweaking the startup boost settings to much. I'm just curious as heck how the factory settings manage this. (torque settings or boost factors???)
 
Big_Daddy said:
Anyone been able to increase the pedal responsiveness of the OSF 1.0v similar to that of the stock TSDZ2? I really like the overall performance of the OSF and its total power delivery, but trying to overcome the 3-4 pedal turns for the assist to initially kick in or kick back in from coasting. The stock unit seems much more instantaneous than the OSF. However, if this is the difference in nature between the two, I will stick with the OSF hands down due to it's feature richness. Trying not to go overboard with tweaking the startup boost settings to much. I'm just curious as heck how the factory settings manage this. (torque settings or boost factors???)

Yeh, I just posted the same issue on the other forum (OSF with 860C display). Tried a few things but no luck getting that standing start power improved. Everything else is great, so hoping a resolution can be found. I have put back the stock firmware for the moment, as I live on a hill and need the extra boost on startup.
 
here are some pictures. do you think the shape of the downtube will cause problems? As you can see I can't mount the fixing block. Tips please.

http://imgur.com/a/HnAeAuh
 
Do your research, its been discussed here many times, you do not need the rear block mount if you dimple the small non drive side plate at the BB line, correctly size the spacers and you tighten the castellated nut with enough pressure. We run all 5 units we have here on full suspension bikes at about 650W's max without an issue.
 
vass said:
Damn i am having alot Of bad luck on vacations with my tsdz2 😅, first it Lost tbe firmware, bought a new cable and reprogramed it. Then when i went for a Ride sodently it became damn hard to pedal (like real hard), even with the motor off . Limped home and opened it, but i cant find anything bad. If i remove the motor (and leave just the blue gear ) i can pedal easly (by hand), if i put it back its again hard to pedal. The blue gear seems ok, the motor also , if i put the blue gear and the shaft in the motor and try to move them by hand There is resistance but but way less .
Can someone Help me on This? Blue gear is kaput, motor is semi kaput ?
Seems like the controller is suddenly operating in a generator mode after programming or the motor is shorted. Will have to wait for other more confident opinions.
 
Goody5 said:
Big_Daddy said:
Anyone been able to increase the pedal responsiveness of the OSF 1.0v similar to that of the stock TSDZ2? I really like the overall performance of the OSF and its total power delivery, but trying to overcome the 3-4 pedal turns for the assist to initially kick in or kick back in from coasting. The stock unit seems much more instantaneous than the OSF. However, if this is the difference in nature between the two, I will stick with the OSF hands down due to it's feature richness. Trying not to go overboard with tweaking the startup boost settings to much. I'm just curious as heck how the factory settings manage this. (torque settings or boost factors???)

Yeh, I just posted the same issue on the other forum (OSF with 860C display). Tried a few things but no luck getting that standing start power improved. Everything else is great, so hoping a resolution can be found. I have put back the stock firmware for the moment, as I live on a hill and need the extra boost on startup.

Did you have to go back to the stock VCL5 display or reflash your 860c (didn’t know if it works with stock software)? Flashing software is easy but re-wiring and displays are a pain in the tail to keep doing. You wouldn’t think it would be that big of a deal to get that kink out as evolved as the OSF has become, but then I’m not a programmer either and the job that Casainho and others have done with the OSF is simply amazing. The biggest struggle is not knowing what parameters control the startup power boost in the stock software and their counterparts in the OSF so that you know where to fiddle and tweak!
 
Big_Daddy said:
Goody5 said:
Big_Daddy said:
Anyone been able to increase the pedal responsiveness of the OSF 1.0v similar to that of the stock TSDZ2? I really like the overall performance of the OSF and its total power delivery, but trying to overcome the 3-4 pedal turns for the assist to initially kick in or kick back in from coasting. The stock unit seems much more instantaneous than the OSF. However, if this is the difference in nature between the two, I will stick with the OSF hands down due to it's feature richness. Trying not to go overboard with tweaking the startup boost settings to much. I'm just curious as heck how the factory settings manage this. (torque settings or boost factors???)

Yeh, I just posted the same issue on the other forum (OSF with 860C display). Tried a few things but no luck getting that standing start power improved. Everything else is great, so hoping a resolution can be found. I have put back the stock firmware for the moment, as I live on a hill and need the extra boost on startup.

Did you have to go back to the stock VCL5 display or reflash your 860c (didn’t know if it works with stock software)? Flashing software is easy but re-wiring and displays are a pain in the tail to keep doing. You wouldn’t think it would be that big of a deal to get that kink out as evolved as the OSF has become, but then I’m not a programmer either and the job that Casainho and others have done with the OSF is simply amazing. The biggest struggle is not knowing what parameters control the startup power boost in the stock software and their counterparts in the OSF so that you know where to fiddle and tweak!

I put the same connector as the 860C (I think it is a higo) onto my VLCD5 so that I can quickly change between stock and OSF firmware. Took a while as the colors and pinouts are different but makes it really easy to test different settings and switch back to stock firmware when I need to
 
Big_Daddy said:
Goody5 said:
Big_Daddy said:
Anyone been able to increase the pedal responsiveness of the OSF 1.0v similar to that of the stock TSDZ2? I really like the overall performance of the OSF and its total power delivery, but trying to overcome the 3-4 pedal turns for the assist to initially kick in or kick back in from coasting. The stock unit seems much more instantaneous than the OSF. However, if this is the difference in nature between the two, I will stick with the OSF hands down due to it's feature richness. Trying not to go overboard with tweaking the startup boost settings to much. I'm just curious as heck how the factory settings manage this. (torque settings or boost factors???)

Yeh, I just posted the same issue on the other forum (OSF with 860C display). Tried a few things but no luck getting that standing start power improved. Everything else is great, so hoping a resolution can be found. I have put back the stock firmware for the moment, as I live on a hill and need the extra boost on startup.

Did you have to go back to the stock VCL5 display or reflash your 860c (didn’t know if it works with stock software)? Flashing software is easy but re-wiring and displays are a pain in the tail to keep doing. You wouldn’t think it would be that big of a deal to get that kink out as evolved as the OSF has become, but then I’m not a programmer either and the job that Casainho and others have done with the OSF is simply amazing. The biggest struggle is not knowing what parameters control the startup power boost in the stock software and their counterparts in the OSF so that you know where to fiddle and tweak!

I put the same connector as the 860C (I think it is a higo) onto my VLCD5 so that I can quickly change between stock and OSF firmware. Took a while as the colors and pinouts are different but makes it really easy to test different settings and switch back to stock firmware when I need to
 
sysrq said:
vass said:
Damn i am having alot Of bad luck on vacations with my tsdz2 😅, first it Lost tbe firmware, bought a new cable and reprogramed it. Then when i went for a Ride sodently it became damn hard to pedal (like real hard), even with the motor off . Limped home and opened it, but i cant find anything bad. If i remove the motor (and leave just the blue gear ) i can pedal easly (by hand), if i put it back its again hard to pedal. The blue gear seems ok, the motor also , if i put the blue gear and the shaft in the motor and try to move them by hand There is resistance but but way less .
Can someone Help me on This? Blue gear is kaput, motor is semi kaput ?
Seems like the controller is suddenly operating in a generator mode after programming or the motor is shorted. Will have to wait for other more confident opinions.


Nope 😂, after opening all , cleaning all i put the motor on without the blue gear and it was hard to pedal , mind i was doing This with the tsdz2 still on the bike. Then i took some pressure off the crank nut and voila , all was ok, put it all back and its working 😅. I have a full susp bike and i had to diy the "thingy" That doesnt let the motor move, i Guess it moved and warped the metal casing on a way it was making something to the shaft/motor angle. Now i have a hard plastic in the front off the motor preventing This to happen again (i hope). I Guess i had luck in not breaking something (did a 50km Ride today without problems)
 
fireflyer451 said:
I am not understanding the graph display on my 860c (version 1.0 & OSF 1.0) . The temperature sensor is installed and has been tested to be accurate. What do the large numbers at the top and bottom of the scale represent? They do not seem to have a relationship to the actual temperature value.

Below are images from the Units being set to Imperial or SI.

Thanks

SI
cel-2.jpg

Imperial
far2.jpg

Fireflyer451, did you ever figure this problem out? I have the same issue and chased this gremlin as well.
 
I'm trying to flash the firmware on the 850c display and I am having difficulty, I'm hoping I can get some advice.

My order for eunorau came with a USB cable that with a male to male dongle connects to the display.
See:
IMG-20200904-195456-Copy.jpg

I plugged it in and I was find the COM in the Apt-burn-tools, opened the com and tried installing the firmware. I pressed the power button on the display (in a variety of ways) and Burn-Tools would just keep saying waiting.. waiting..

If I tried to turn on the display while it was plugged in to the USB it wouldn't turn on. I'm wondering if the USB dongle provided isn't a high enough voltage so the display isn't on. Its the same dongle as the display so I assumed it was the display.. My display works when I plug it back into the battery, so no update executed.

I appreciate any thoughts, I ordered all the hardware to built the DIY bootloader but I thought I'd try this USB as the male to male cable made it possible to use the USB provided by eunorau.

Thank you.
 
szchz said:
I'm trying to flash the firmware on the 850c display and I am having difficulty, I'm hoping I can get some advice.

My order for eunorau came with a USB cable that with a male to male dongle connects to the display.
See:
IMG-20200904-195456-Copy.jpg

I plugged it in and I was find the COM in the Apt-burn-tools, opened the com and tried installing the firmware. I pressed the power button on the display (in a variety of ways) and Burn-Tools would just keep saying waiting.. waiting..

If I tried to turn on the display while it was plugged in to the USB it wouldn't turn on. I'm wondering if the USB dongle provided isn't a high enough voltage so the display isn't on. Its the same dongle as the display so I assumed it was the display.. My display works when I plug it back into the battery, so no update executed.

I appreciate any thoughts, I ordered all the hardware to built the DIY bootloader but I thought I'd try this USB as the male to male cable made it possible to use the USB provided by eunorau.

Thank you.

Looks similar to the setup I used the other day to program my 860C. Are you providing seperate power (36V in my case) to the display? The USB device will not provide this by itself. I made a lead which added a connection to my 36V battery to power display
 
Goody5 said:
szchz said:
I'm trying to flash the firmware on the 850c display and I am having difficulty, I'm hoping I can get some advice.

My order for eunorau came with a USB cable that with a male to male dongle connects to the display.
See:
IMG-20200904-195456-Copy.jpg

I plugged it in and I was find the COM in the Apt-burn-tools, opened the com and tried installing the firmware. I pressed the power button on the display (in a variety of ways) and Burn-Tools would just keep saying waiting.. waiting..

If I tried to turn on the display while it was plugged in to the USB it wouldn't turn on. I'm wondering if the USB dongle provided isn't a high enough voltage so the display isn't on. Its the same dongle as the display so I assumed it was the display.. My display works when I plug it back into the battery, so no update executed.

I appreciate any thoughts, I ordered all the hardware to built the DIY bootloader but I thought I'd try this USB as the male to male cable made it possible to use the USB provided by eunorau.

Thank you.

Looks similar to the setup I used the other day to program my 860C. Are you providing seperate power (36V in my case) to the display? The USB device will not provide this by itself. I made a lead which added a connection to my 36V battery to power display


Thanks I think I'll try that.

I found the cable on Alibaba

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001002027135.html?spm=a2g0n.detail.0.0.3f0b5RAM5RAMYY&gps-id=storeRecommendH5&scm=1007.18500.139671.0&scm_id=1007.18500.139671.0&scm-url=1007.18500.139671.0&pvid=61a3a702-6bac-4118-a000-ac69a4eedcbd&_t=gps-id%3AstoreRecommendH5%2Cscm-url%3A1007.18500.139671.0%2Cpvid%3A61a3a702-6bac-4118-a000-ac69a4eedcbd%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%230%23131923%2316_668%23808%233772%23863_668%23888%233325%2319_668%232846%238115%23859_668%232717%237563%23552__668%233374%2315176%23539&browser_id=f17fedcef81145de80a9d1e8c3ce9c28&aff_trace_key=a60c6ddb223f40c4899abf9eb78e75ec-1599319984739-08579-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=rmpgf2d6mjmcarcq1745ee77f075ade688a215dc27&gclid=&_imgsrc_=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHe99a85e79dff4adeb54504fd22b9f2caX.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp
 
Elinx said:
Jaybee258 said:
Hi Guys. I have a 52 volt battery and a 48 volt motor. ..... does anyone know of any better solutions?
...
If you don't get OSF working as you want you can flash modified stock FW too.
In that case you can use the 52V battery.
Instructions by eco cycles
Stock FW archive

Hi Guys. I reflashed back to the modified stock firmware choosing the 52v version to match my battery. It seemed to take ok, but I still cannot get the motor to work. I reconnected the original stock VLCD-5 screen (which is fixed on 48v I think).
1. When I turn the screen on now, pedals vertical, it seems to initialise within a couple of seconds. I understand this switching on should take some time??
2. The battery indicator shows one bar even though the battery is fully charged at 57volts. This is not correct.
3. I now have a motor with modified stock FW at 52 volts and a 48v original FW display. Is this correct, or what display should I use? I don't see a way to change screen voltage to match.

Flashing the FW onto the controller seems to work ok. Does this mean that the controller is working properly? Is there any way of checking the controller? What symptoms would a faulty controller give if I needed to replace it? If I buy a new 48 volt controller, I am still stuck with the mismatched 52 volt battery.

I bought a 52 volt battery and 48 volt motor intending to just use the open software. I have completely failed to make the OSF work, and I'm looking at ways to try and get the motor to work in any configuration. I'm tempted to buy a new controller, but it does seem to accept the flashing, so is the controller likely to be the fault?

I read of plenty people buying motors of a particular voltage to match the old battery they already own, which is not always the best decision process. Has anybody used a buck converter or step controller to match battery to motor? A 30amp one at £28 should do the trick, but the first issue I see is that the motor controller cannot look after the battery on low voltage cut off because it only sees converter voltage.

A lot of questions but I am completely stuck on what to try next. I have already tried every configuration of swapping 8 pin leads, tx and Rx, reflashing everything, rechecking wire colours and connections. Everything was triple checked, so nothing should have been blown.

As no instructions came with the motor, I'm assuming that I put pedals vertical, switch everything on, wait for the screen to show, key in an assist level and ride away!

Many thanks in advance.
 
Jaybee258 said:
Hi Guys. I reflashed back to the modified stock firmware choosing the 52v version to match my battery. It seemed to take ok, but I still cannot get the motor to work. I reconnected the original stock VLCD-5 screen (which is fixed on 48v I think)....

Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
 
jbalat said:
Jaybee258 said:
Hi Guys. I reflashed back to the modified stock firmware choosing the 52v version to match my battery. It seemed to take ok, but I still cannot get the motor to work. I reconnected the original stock VLCD-5 screen (which is fixed on 48v I think)....

Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Thanks jbalat
Do you think this will work with the 52v battery? The VLCD-5 will be expecting 48v and I don't think I can change that.
 
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