New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Jaybee258 said:
jbalat said:
Jaybee258 said:
Hi Guys. I reflashed back to the modified stock firmware choosing the 52v version to match my battery. It seemed to take ok, but I still cannot get the motor to work. I reconnected the original stock VLCD-5 screen (which is fixed on 48v I think)....

Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Thanks jbalat
Do you think this will work with the 52v battery? The VLCD-5 will be expecting 48v and I don't think I can change that.

It Will, i have the same firmware in a 52v13amp battery. You can also use the temp sensor
 
I managed to fix my display, I installed the 1.0 firmware on both the display and motor.

I am getting error breaks message on my 850c.

I'm worried I may have hastely installed the TSDZ2 firmware and the data memory/option bytes are wrong. I saw from a previous post it means there is no communication between the motor and display. When I previously had the v0.6.2 it would show the voltage but wouldn't load past that.

Ugh. Not sure where to go from here, somehow install stock?

I found the original data / option bytes and I updated the firmware with them but no change while keeping 1.0 software. (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=3550#p1415882) I bought a 48v version from eunorau

Update: When I go back to the 0.6.2 (display) / 0.52.0 (motor) I am able to see voltage but it says waiting TSDZ2.
Update: I tired installed these (data/program/bytes): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGcBtTj8GrGQ4tDJAECr6ejMrpW2ZqvH with 48v version (bytes confirmed to 28) then reinstalled the 0.52.0 program memory ... still no luck. Probably time to go to bed for work tmrw. Is there anyway to get 850c back to stock so I at least have one control variable?

I appreciate any guidance!
 
vass said:
Jaybee258 said:
jbalat said:
Jaybee258 said:
Hi Guys. I reflashed back to the modified stock firmware choosing the 52v version to match my battery. It seemed to take ok, but I still cannot get the motor to work. I reconnected the original stock VLCD-5 screen (which is fixed on 48v I think)....

Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Thanks jbalat
Do you think this will work with the 52v battery? The VLCD-5 will be expecting 48v and I don't think I can change that.

It Will, i have the same firmware in a 52v13amp battery. You can also use the temp sensor

That's great. I will let you know how I get on. I will discharge my battery to 48 volts too. Will I see a temp reading, or does it just protect the motor?
 
Can someone point me in the direction of how to use a gear sensor with the TSDZ2?

Can I splice it together with the ebrake so they cut off either way?
 
Jaybee258 said:
vass said:
Jaybee258 said:
jbalat said:
Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Thanks jbalat
Do you think this will work with the 52v battery? The VLCD-5 will be expecting 48v and I don't think I can change that.

It Will, i have the same firmware in a 52v13amp battery. You can also use the temp sensor

That's great. I will let you know how I get on. I will discharge my battery to 48 volts too. Will I see a temp reading, or does it just protect the motor?

You dont need to discharge it, just use the right config in the Java configurator.
The lcd5 on data mode Will display temp (you need to follow the wiki on osf to install a sensor) , it Will also reduce "power" at a pre defined temp to protect the motor.
 
BMboomer said:
jeff.page.rides said:
BMboomer said:
Hi from Australia, haven't posted for a long time, but still into electric bikes, & my original cheap eBay direct drive hub bike has been improved over the years, & is still going strong.
Now for my latest project. I ordered a TSDZ2 kit, months ago just before the Covid 19 restrictions kicked in. & I still haven't got it. I thought things might get difficult, so I ordered it from Amazon AU, from a company called Greenergy-AU. It costed more than ordering from China, but I was thinking that I would be ordering from Australian stock.
Not so. It's coming from China anyway
Tracking tells me that it's still stuck at " Depart from overseas processing facility", & has been for a month now.
Anyway the delay has given me plenty of time to select a candidate bike for the TSDZ2 if & when it arrives. So I bought a great bike on Gumtree, that would be very suitable, & it was only $125. It's a Raceline Comp. Not very well known, but Raceline was the high end of Apollo, who are a very reputable bike brand in Australia. This bike is very well equipped. With decent Manitou forks, Hayes hydraulic disc brakes. Mavic rims on Shimano hubs. 9 speed cassette with Deore XTR derailleur. Deore shifters, all in a nice big light alloy hardtail frame with a standard 68mm BSA BB.
All set, but still waiting for the motor, & then I see on Gumtree an almost new condition, 2008 Giant Trance X0 frame, with 5" of Fox Float air suspension. More than twice the price of the Raceline, but it really is a thing of beauty. So I bought it thinking I might cannabalise all the good bits from the Raceline, put them on the Giant frame, & have a nice full suspension bike for the motor when it comes.
I know I would have more difficulties installing the motor in the FS frame, but at least it is a 68mm BSA BB.
What is the community opinion.
Is the extra difficulty of fitting worth the extra comfort of the FS frame, considering that I'm an older bloke, & probably won't be going more off road than gravel walking paths. Or should I stick to the Raceline, which is pretty much an ideal install.

Every full suspension bike is diffrent to install the TSDZ2 on. So try it on the full suspension bike first and if it's simple give it a try. If it is going to take a lot of work or will not work you can move it to the hardtail.
The motor finally arrived, & it wasn't going to go in the Giant Trance frame as the bottom floating suspension pivot was right in the way, so I fitted it into the Raceline hardtail which almost seemed like it was made for it.
I found the motor was a bit underwhelming at first, as I'm used to riding in the lowest level on my direct drive bike, but it wasn't too bad in the third level. It was super economical though giving me 140km on the first charge of the new 36v 17.4 ah Samsung 29e battery run down to 30v. That was including climbing over Buderim with it's 10% hills, twice.
After that economy & performance testing, & with my watt meter still in series, I thought I'd give the Open Source Firmware adapted to Vlcd5 that has been put together by some of the amazingly talented people that post here. I had already got the ST link V2, & it all went pretty easily.
I tried it at 36v using mostly the default settings in the Java Configurator, & was immediately blown away. Not only by the extra performance, lowest level almost felt like 3rd level did, & going up from there as the levels go up. But the whole thing felt much smoother & quieter.
Then I seriesed up 3 more parallel sets with my 10s to make a 13s, & tried it at 48v. That didn't seem to make much difference, to it's performance. Just doing it at a few less amps. The way that I will be using it, I won't be over stressing it anyway, so I am quite happy to stick with 36v. I'm quite commited to 36v. All my other e-bikes are 36v, & 10s is a nice round number.
I'm feeling like this is an awesome bike now. It's making my old legs feel 50yrs younger, & getting me up hills that have me walking if I'm on a road bike, or working a bit harder than I want to on most other e-bikes I've tried.
Now I've fully charged the battery to see if the extra performance comes at a cost to economy. So far it's looking good. I've done 45km, my Vlcd5 is telling me I've got 88.9% left, & I've still got 5 out of 6 bars on the gauge.
I'm thinking about my next project now (love retirement). Probably a stealthy road bike, with an AKM 128 CST. I want to use 36v but that motor seems to be only sold rated at 48v these days. I remember people using it at 36v & getting good torque. Anybody know if they're different windings these days?

You noted that you used OSF with the Vlcd5 On the 36V motor? Can you send a link to that firmware please
 
Goody5 said:
....... OSF with the Vlcd5 On the 36V motor? Can you send a link to that firmware please
You find that version of OSF here
This is the Endless-Sphere topic for info and questions.
 
Just wondering if anyone else has felt some mechanical drag at some point or another.

Sometimes first thing in the morning it will be very hard to peddle and make a different noise then all of a sudden it clicks and its working properly again

My gut feel is that it might be the small bearing that holds the end of the drive gear on the motor. It must be moving and not meshing properly with the other gears

Anyway it only lasts a few seconds but a friend of mine says that this is happening all the time with his motor.. Both of us now have in excess of 20,000kms I'm guessing


Thanks
JB
 
szchz said:
I managed to fix my display, I installed the 1.0 firmware on both the display and motor.

I am getting error breaks message on my 850c.

I'm worried I may have hastely installed the TSDZ2 firmware and the data memory/option bytes are wrong. I saw from a previous post it means there is no communication between the motor and display. When I previously had the v0.6.2 it would show the voltage but wouldn't load past that.

Ugh. Not sure where to go from here, somehow install stock?

I found the original data / option bytes and I updated the firmware with them but no change while keeping 1.0 software. (https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=79788&start=3550#p1415882) I bought a 48v version from eunorau

Update: When I go back to the 0.6.2 (display) / 0.52.0 (motor) I am able to see voltage but it says waiting TSDZ2.
Update: I tired installed these (data/program/bytes): https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGcBtTj8GrGQ4tDJAECr6ejMrpW2ZqvH with 48v version (bytes confirmed to 28) then reinstalled the 0.52.0 program memory ... still no luck. Probably time to go to bed for work tmrw. Is there anyway to get 850c back to stock so I at least have one control variable?

I appreciate any guidance!

After slowly looking through the instructions I realised I made a significant mistake... I never wired the display to the TSDZ2. My 850c display came working with the motor. I'm somewhat unsure as to what to do, because from my understanding from most sellers they don't sell the 850c display because it isn't compatible stock? Eunorau must have done something to make it work?

So I think my next step is to splice the cable from the display side, in the picture at the bottom of the page:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Wire-860C-850C-to-TSDZ2

I see the display cable wires directly to the 8 pin, my cable came with an Accessories 1T4 cablehttps://www.amazon.ca/Electric-Bicy...s=bafang+cable&qid=1599534208&s=sports&sr=1-5. Can I splice the cable on the accessory end or do I have to splice it directly on the 8-pin controller wire cable?
 
knutselmaaster said:
cowrevenge said:
Can someone point me in the direction of how to use a gear sensor with the TSDZ2?

Can I splice it together with the ebrake so they cut off either way?

Yes you can split.
Easier is to order the Y cable with it.

Are the gear sensors simple momentary switches or do they have some kind of timer circuitry built in? I read some complaints about them cutting power for a couple of seconds, but can't remember if that was in relation to the TSDZ2 or Bafang motors.
 
They are momentary switches.
According to the manufacturer of the sensors, the latest versions of the motor should have some kind of compatibility in the software to speed things up.
 
I use the ebrake to cut the power off on my trike when shifting the rohloff. I adjusted the mechanical brake so it doesn't get engage with the first few millimeters of squeeze on the lever. I use the mechanical switch type ebarke. I do have to file away some of the plastic on the switch so it will cut the power off sooner with a light squeeze.
 
I posted about this a while back, it's from the the Tongsheng VLCD5 manual regarding the hidden service menu. Without any pressure on the pedals, the recommended initial value for the torque sensor should be within the range of 50-105.

When I first read this I misinterpreted it to be the range from no pressure to maximum pedal pressure. Mine is around the maximum value with no pressure so I'll adjust it down to account for any drift, but I wonder whether being in the middle or at lower end of the range is better. The example shows 85, could that be the ideal value?
 

Attachments

  • initial torque value.jpg
    initial torque value.jpg
    84 KB · Views: 1,130
Goody5 said:
BMboomer said:
jeff.page.rides said:
BMboomer said:
Hi from Australia, haven't posted for a long time, but still into electric bikes, & my original cheap eBay direct drive hub bike has been improved over the years, & is still going strong.
Now for my latest project. I ordered a TSDZ2 kit, months ago just before the Covid 19 restrictions kicked in. & I still haven't got it. I thought things might get difficult, so I ordered it from Amazon AU, from a company called Greenergy-AU. It costed more than ordering from China, but I was thinking that I would be ordering from Australian stock.
Not so. It's coming from China anyway
Tracking tells me that it's still stuck at " Depart from overseas processing facility", & has been for a month now.
Anyway the delay has given me plenty of time to select a candidate bike for the TSDZ2 if & when it arrives. So I bought a great bike on Gumtree, that would be very suitable, & it was only $125. It's a Raceline Comp. Not very well known, but Raceline was the high end of Apollo, who are a very reputable bike brand in Australia. This bike is very well equipped. With decent Manitou forks, Hayes hydraulic disc brakes. Mavic rims on Shimano hubs. 9 speed cassette with Deore XTR derailleur. Deore shifters, all in a nice big light alloy hardtail frame with a standard 68mm BSA BB.
All set, but still waiting for the motor, & then I see on Gumtree an almost new condition, 2008 Giant Trance X0 frame, with 5" of Fox Float air suspension. More than twice the price of the Raceline, but it really is a thing of beauty. So I bought it thinking I might cannabalise all the good bits from the Raceline, put them on the Giant frame, & have a nice full suspension bike for the motor when it comes.
I know I would have more difficulties installing the motor in the FS frame, but at least it is a 68mm BSA BB.
What is the community opinion.
Is the extra difficulty of fitting worth the extra comfort of the FS frame, considering that I'm an older bloke, & probably won't be going more off road than gravel walking paths. Or should I stick to the Raceline, which is pretty much an ideal install.

Every full suspension bike is diffrent to install the TSDZ2 on. So try it on the full suspension bike first and if it's simple give it a try. If it is going to take a lot of work or will not work you can move it to the hardtail.
The motor finally arrived, & it wasn't going to go in the Giant Trance frame as the bottom floating suspension pivot was right in the way, so I fitted it into the Raceline hardtail which almost seemed like it was made for it.
I found the motor was a bit underwhelming at first, as I'm used to riding in the lowest level on my direct drive bike, but it wasn't too bad in the third level. It was super economical though giving me 140km on the first charge of the new 36v 17.4 ah Samsung 29e battery run down to 30v. That was including climbing over Buderim with it's 10% hills, twice.
After that economy & performance testing, & with my watt meter still in series, I thought I'd give the Open Source Firmware adapted to Vlcd5 that has been put together by some of the amazingly talented people that post here. I had already got the ST link V2, & it all went pretty easily.
I tried it at 36v using mostly the default settings in the Java Configurator, & was immediately blown away. Not only by the extra performance, lowest level almost felt like 3rd level did, & going up from there as the levels go up. But the whole thing felt much smoother & quieter.
Then I seriesed up 3 more parallel sets with my 10s to make a 13s, & tried it at 48v. That didn't seem to make much difference, to it's performance. Just doing it at a few less amps. The way that I will be using it, I won't be over stressing it anyway, so I am quite happy to stick with 36v. I'm quite commited to 36v. All my other e-bikes are 36v, & 10s is a nice round number.
I'm feeling like this is an awesome bike now. It's making my old legs feel 50yrs younger, & getting me up hills that have me walking if I'm on a road bike, or working a bit harder than I want to on most other e-bikes I've tried.
Now I've fully charged the battery to see if the extra performance comes at a cost to economy. So far it's looking good. I've done 45km, my Vlcd5 is telling me I've got 88.9% left, & I've still got 5 out of 6 bars on the gauge.
I'm thinking about my next project now (love retirement). Probably a stealthy road bike, with an AKM 128 CST. I want to use 36v but that motor seems to be only sold rated at 48v these days. I remember people using it at 36v & getting good torque. Anybody know if they're different windings these days?

You noted that you used OSF with the Vlcd5 On the 36V motor? Can you send a link to that firmware please

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281&start=1375

https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1
 
casainho said:
Is there any mechanical engineer that can help design a part for 3D printing, to reuse the VLCD5 remote keypad circuit board and the touch pad, to add the small wireless board and the button cell?

Do you still need help for the design of a 3D-printable housing?

regards
stancecoke
 
stancecoke said:
casainho said:
Is there any mechanical engineer that can help design a part for 3D printing, to reuse the VLCD5 remote keypad circuit board and the touch pad, to add the small wireless board and the button cell?
Do you still need help for the design of a 3D-printable housing?
Yes, please.

The idea is to reuse the cheap and easily available VLCD5 remote keypad and the extra electronics to make it a wireless remote button, that uses the wireless EBike standard protocol, just like the other commercial EBikes use: ANT+ LEV profile.

I bought a Bluetooth button and does not implement the ANT+ LEV profile, so, it does not work on the wireless EBike displays. Also it is for a car application, have issues like not being water prof or lack of tactile feedback. Pictures of this button and VLCD5 remote keypad with the wireless board with ANT+ LEV profile.

The board and firmware works already (project page: Repository: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/ebike_wireless_remote)

[youtube]O67TSVkCuRM[/youtube]

01.jpg


02.jpg


03.jpg
 
casainho said:
Yes, please.

Do you want to integrate all parts in one housing, or do you want the to keep the VLCD5 remote keypad as it is and place the buttoncell and the PCB in an extra housing? Can you tell me the dimensions of the button cell + PCB?

regards
stancecoke
 
stancecoke said:
1. Do you want to integrate all parts in one housing, or do you want the to keep the VLCD5 remote keypad as it is and place the buttoncell and the PCB in an extra housing?
2. Can you tell me the dimensions of the button cell + PCB?
1. The PCB and flexible key pad must be reused because it is hard to replicate them in DIY. What will be added as extra is: wireless board + battery + 3D printed housing. All parts on the housing and the housing should be increased on the Z axis. This is an advantage also because this printed part can have custom inclination related to the handle bar, etc.
For the housing, I think we can just design and print the part that is in contact with the handle bar (PCB is attached to this part and the flexible keypad is on top of this part.

Here a comparison of the board size, it can be placed
image.png


I tried to design one version, not finished but the battery and wireless board were nice placed:
image.png


I could not finish the design because the flexible key pad membrane has a very specific curves in 3D and it needs to fit very well... I could not do it...

I even tried to design the top part... because the original one is gray and I would like to have everything black... still, this is not a priority as the original has only the disadvantage of being gray but it will work anyway:
image.png


2. Yes I can tell you, maybe the best is to share on the repository the 3D files I did where they fit well. But what you need is the VLCD5 keypad - do you have one or should I send one to you by mail?
 
casainho said:
Yes I can tell you, maybe the best is to share on the repository the 3D files I did where they fit well.

Ah, you already started with the 3D-design. I'm not very experienced with freeform surfaces, but I can try.
What software are you using?

regards
stancecoke
 
stancecoke said:
casainho said:
Yes I can tell you, maybe the best is to share on the repository the 3D files I did where they fit well.
Ah, you already started with the 3D-design. I'm not very experienced with freeform surfaces, but I can try.
What software are you using?
FreeCAD because is free and OpenSource, so, no limitations for anyone use it and access the project source files.

I am not a mechanical engineer and I have very low knowledge for 3D design, maybe that is the reason I could not do it on FreeCAD or maybe FreeCAD is not up to the task?? I think only a experienced developer can say.
 
casainho said:
FreeCAD because is free and OpenSource
That's great, for hobby projects I use it, too.
If you add the CAD-files to the repo, I will take a look!

regards
stancecoke
 
stancecoke said:
casainho said:
FreeCAD because is free and OpenSource
That's great, for hobby projects I use it, too.
If you add the CAD-files to the repo, I will take a look!
Here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/ebike_wireless_remote/tree/master/3d_design

I think would be great if you could do a pull request with your contributions. Very happy to work with you again ;)

One question: since I remember you prefer to not use displays on your ebikes, so, what is your motivation to help on this project?
 
casainho said:
what is your motivation to help on this project?
I'm just happy if I can help :)

My latest hobby project for driving a BionX Motor with a cheap no-name battery and a Kunteng LCD3-display is almost finished, so I have some spare time now :wink:

https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/bmt-bionx-motor-mit-no-name-akku-und-kunteng-display-betreiben.79599/post-1516083

index.php


https://github.com/stancecoke/BionX_Minimal_Translator

casainho said:
Here: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-fir ... /3d_design

Ok, this is the lower part, that doesn't fit exactly to the upper part of the VLCD5? Or do you need the design of the upper part, only taking the rubber sleeve and the PCB from the original VLCD5?
Lower Part.PNG

regards
stancecoke
 
stancecoke said:
My latest hobby project for driving a BionX Motor with a cheap no-name battery and a Kunteng LCD3-display is almost finished, so I have some spare time now :wink:

https://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/bmt-bionx-motor-mit-no-name-akku-und-kunteng-display-betreiben.79599/post-1516083
Great work!! and seems you are not looking to make your work accessible / project having success, since you wrote in DE and not in EN??
I am seeing your videos on YouTube, they help me to understand, they are good!

The idea of TSDZ2 using the standard of wireless EBike is to make it more accessible, where users have much more choice on the displays and remote buttons to buy and use (or as alternative DIY), and in the limit not buying them and use only his mobile phone.
You understand very well the issues of everyone being using custom technology and not a standard on EBike motor controllers and displays, like everyone trying to use KT displays and being hard because of missing bits of information, different communication protocols, etc.

And TSDZ2 is very popular by now, I see a lot of references of it on social networks like on YouTube and Instagram... and EBikes sells had grow a lot and will keep growing. I think TSDZ2 usage will also keep growing and so the potential for this project is big!

stancecoke said:
Ok, this is the lower part, that doesn't fit exactly to the upper part of the VLCD5? Or do you need the design of the upper part, only taking the rubber sleeve and the PCB from the original VLCD5?
Yes... It is very hard to make the measurements but maybe I can try and send to you. The best was if you had it with you for testing.

Maybe we should keep talking about this development on the specific thread: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=106346
 
Back
Top