New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
jbalat
10 kW
Yeh it did sound like the blue gear but without power that wouldn’t happen, maybe just check everything is tight, like the spider and chainring, check the motor isn’t moving around and that it is seated properly and has a rubber piece between the motor and frame. Check peddles. Funny enough but it could even be the seat post or suspension joints or a rear wheel bearing that’s gone (you can check this by taking back wheel off and spinning it in your fingers to see if you feel anything). these creaks are pretty hard to diagnose since they echo through the entire frame.Swannking said:
if it is the motor then you will need to take it apart again and regrease it and check for any play. Check all the bearings too to make sure they spin smoothly.
Mr.Flibble
10 W
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- May 5, 2020
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- 90
AZUR said:
Very nice!!
Transmitting the heat to the casing,then increasing the surface area to get rid of said heat.
Would the fins be better aligned with the airflow?
Mr.Flibble
10 W
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- May 5, 2020
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- 90
charakaSamawry said:
The "official" grease only seems to come in giant buckets, and costs the gdp of a small country.
I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mobil-Mobilith-SHC-100-Lithium-Complex-Synthetic-Premium-Grease-380g-Cartridge/173699066372?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 which is the new version of the "offical" bafang grease, and has the advantage of costing less than a new motor.
charakaSamawry said:
I wouldn't touch the sprag clutch or roller clutch inside the blue gear in case they start slipping. But since you are in the UK, the easiest solution is to order a small container of Molycote PG-75 from Performance Line Bearings and use that for everything else as it's safe for plastic gears.
https://www.performancelinebearings.com/product/gear-grease-for-ebike-motors/
Can bbt-18 8 notch tool be used on TSDZ2 BB locknut. Decided to cut the one supplied with the motor so that it can be used while riding without removing the crank. Turns out it's too flimsy for that. Can't seem to find anything else (castle socket with 40mm inner diameter, cup and cone BB locknut is 41.17mm). Hook wrench keeps slipping. Probably will have to grease the drive side BB attachment point and inner shell to minimise the probability of frame damage while using blue locktite on notched locknut. The upper plate of anti-rotation bracket also seems to be bending slowly while tightening the bolt, so that one also has to be tightened periodically.
JaiCee
1 mW
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- May 6, 2019
- Messages
- 12
Is anyone having any trouble with the light function with an SW102 controller? This used to work on an older version but over the summer I upgraded to the latest version and haven't used them. Now when I turn on the lights the power to the motor cuts out.
Retrorockit
1 kW
AZUR said:
On page 309 I posted about a motor heatsink I made. There was no photo so it's easy to miss. But I think the description is complete enough to build it. It's an aluminum ring that surrounds the armature and transfers heat to the cover, and the base plate of the motor. Thermal pads have heat conductance value of 6-12. Aluminum is 240. Plus this goes all the way around the motor. I think it would be a nice upgrade for what you've done. It would work well with the external heatsinks you've added. Technically it would be a "heatspreader" but that's what the TSDZ2 is missing.
Retrorockit said:
The improvements of your both I have mentioned too in the "Hardware temperature control tsdz2" topic
So it is more easy to find if some looks at that topic.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=102046&p=1585144#p1585144
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
TSDZ2 pedal slipping / main gear bearing fail
On last days, me and my wife, we were far from home, on holidays. We had planned two full days riding our ebikes with TSDZ2. On first day my ebike TSDZ2 did fail and I was really upset!! My pedals were slipping and I could not pedal at all... I had to use the virtual throttle feature for over 20 kms to go back.
I was really upset at begin because I tough the issue were with the blue gear and this way there would not be a way to prevent this fail... but, then I could understand the issue was in the main gear other way the motor would not pull the chain ring. Then I realized I had some symptoms since some weeks ago that I just ignored because I thought the issue was with the cassette - I had was listening cracks when I did pedal harder.
I just updated the wiki TSDZ2 FAQ with the issues, possible causes and solution about pedal slipping mains gear:
Comparing a Specialized EBike with TSDZ2 EBike
I had to rent am ebike and I had the luck to be able to have a nice Specialized EBike that I was happy to compare with TSDZ2 EBike:
Advantages:
- more silent motor: a clear advantage on this Specialized EBike is the more silent motor, clearly TSDZ2 is noisier and I think it is due to using metal gears instead of belts.
- pair with my GPS unit / EBike wireless standard: this Specialized EBike could pair / connect wireless with my GPS Garmin that I use to travel and where I had the tracks / courses of my planned route
Disadvantages:
- limited assist levels, speed limit of 25 km/s and lack of customization: this EBike had only 3 different assist levels and I wanted to ride form 80 kms, on a flat surface. I decided to ride with assist level 1 to save battery and I found it was to much, I wanted to pedal harder because of fitness purposes and also to save the battery for that 80 kms. I found assist level 1 was to much and my effort was to little for what I wanted... and I could not go fast because it hit the 25 km/h limit.
My wife always use a bit more battery than me and she endup with 25% of battery SOC on his TSDZ2 EBike and I had to pedal the last 5 kms with this Specialized EBike, simple because I could not save battery, because the assist levels are not customized like on our OpenSource firmware for TSDZ2.
- incorrect battery SOC: the battery range on the display was not correct because the motor did stop at 8% SOC and I had to pedal the last 5 kms. That 8% SOC should be enough for that last 5 kms.
- heavier: because I always have to lift with my hand the EBikes to put on the car support, I also had to do this 4 times with this Specialized EBike and I found it heavier, even with my EBike with rear panniers and some tools inside.
Experiencing EBike wireless standard with the Specialized EBike
While I was riding I realized that this Specialized EBike is turned on in the battery and not on the display, like if the display is not really needed and quickly I figured out this model could implement the EBike wireless standard. See that I am in the middle of developing the same EBike wireless standard for TSDZ2.
I had my Garmin GPS unit on the handle bard already because I had our route planned and we were following it. I just had to go to wireless sensors configuration and click on discover new sensors and I got this ones from the Specialized EBike:
Note that the heart rate sensor is the one from my watch:
Then automatically the following main screens were added:
EBike main screen to control assist level, see battery status and light status:
At the end of our ride, on the Garmin app, we can see graphs of fitness and cycling metrics but also the pedal human power, speed and cadence were recorded:
And interesting is that there is a map showing the route but with color gradients that we can select for some variables and the pedal human power was available:
On last days, me and my wife, we were far from home, on holidays. We had planned two full days riding our ebikes with TSDZ2. On first day my ebike TSDZ2 did fail and I was really upset!! My pedals were slipping and I could not pedal at all... I had to use the virtual throttle feature for over 20 kms to go back.
I was really upset at begin because I tough the issue were with the blue gear and this way there would not be a way to prevent this fail... but, then I could understand the issue was in the main gear other way the motor would not pull the chain ring. Then I realized I had some symptoms since some weeks ago that I just ignored because I thought the issue was with the cassette - I had was listening cracks when I did pedal harder.
I just updated the wiki TSDZ2 FAQ with the issues, possible causes and solution about pedal slipping mains gear:
Comparing a Specialized EBike with TSDZ2 EBike
I had to rent am ebike and I had the luck to be able to have a nice Specialized EBike that I was happy to compare with TSDZ2 EBike:
Advantages:
- more silent motor: a clear advantage on this Specialized EBike is the more silent motor, clearly TSDZ2 is noisier and I think it is due to using metal gears instead of belts.
- pair with my GPS unit / EBike wireless standard: this Specialized EBike could pair / connect wireless with my GPS Garmin that I use to travel and where I had the tracks / courses of my planned route
Disadvantages:
- limited assist levels, speed limit of 25 km/s and lack of customization: this EBike had only 3 different assist levels and I wanted to ride form 80 kms, on a flat surface. I decided to ride with assist level 1 to save battery and I found it was to much, I wanted to pedal harder because of fitness purposes and also to save the battery for that 80 kms. I found assist level 1 was to much and my effort was to little for what I wanted... and I could not go fast because it hit the 25 km/h limit.
My wife always use a bit more battery than me and she endup with 25% of battery SOC on his TSDZ2 EBike and I had to pedal the last 5 kms with this Specialized EBike, simple because I could not save battery, because the assist levels are not customized like on our OpenSource firmware for TSDZ2.
- incorrect battery SOC: the battery range on the display was not correct because the motor did stop at 8% SOC and I had to pedal the last 5 kms. That 8% SOC should be enough for that last 5 kms.
- heavier: because I always have to lift with my hand the EBikes to put on the car support, I also had to do this 4 times with this Specialized EBike and I found it heavier, even with my EBike with rear panniers and some tools inside.
Experiencing EBike wireless standard with the Specialized EBike
While I was riding I realized that this Specialized EBike is turned on in the battery and not on the display, like if the display is not really needed and quickly I figured out this model could implement the EBike wireless standard. See that I am in the middle of developing the same EBike wireless standard for TSDZ2.
I had my Garmin GPS unit on the handle bard already because I had our route planned and we were following it. I just had to go to wireless sensors configuration and click on discover new sensors and I got this ones from the Specialized EBike:
Note that the heart rate sensor is the one from my watch:
Then automatically the following main screens were added:
EBike main screen to control assist level, see battery status and light status:
At the end of our ride, on the Garmin app, we can see graphs of fitness and cycling metrics but also the pedal human power, speed and cadence were recorded:
And interesting is that there is a map showing the route but with color gradients that we can select for some variables and the pedal human power was available:
hehehe tsdz2 dont like portuguese people or the north, had also alot off issues when i was in vacations in Viana do Castelo.
In the end all off them were caused by my mistakes
(bad soldering of the brake sensor and temp sensor overtightning the motor and riding on sand 
)
Also is it better to get a new main gear clutch or replace the bearing in the old one with a better one?
In the end all off them were caused by my mistakes
(bad soldering of the brake sensor and temp sensor overtightning the motor and riding on sand )Also is it better to get a new main gear clutch or replace the bearing in the old one with a better one?
casainho said:TSDZ2 pedal slipping / main gear bearing fail
On last days, me and my wife, we were far from home, on holidays. We had planned two full days riding our ebikes with TSDZ2. On first day my ebike TSDZ2 did fail and I was really upset!! My pedals were slipping and I could not pedal at all... I had to use the virtual throttle feature for over 20 kms to go back.
I was really upset at begin because I tough the issue were with the blue gear and this way there would not be a way to prevent this fail... but, then I could understand the issue was in the main gear other way the motor would not pull the chain ring. Then I realized I had some symptoms since some weeks ago that I just ignored because I thought the issue was with the cassette - I had was listening cracks when I did pedal harder.
I just updated the wiki TSDZ2 FAQ with the issues, possible causes and solution about pedal slipping mains gear:
Comparing a Specialized EBike with TSDZ2 EBike
I had to rent am ebike and I had the luck to be able to have a nice Specialized EBike that I was happy to compare with TSDZ2 EBike:
Advantages:
- more silent motor: a clear advantage on this Specialized EBike is the more silent motor, clearly TSDZ2 is noisier and I think it is due to using metal gears instead of belts.
- pair with my GPS unit / EBike wireless standard: this Specialized EBike could pair / connect wireless with my GPS Garmin that I use to travel and where I had the tracks / courses of my planned route
Disadvantages:
- limited assist levels, speed limit of 25 km/s and lack of customization: this EBike had only 3 different assist levels and I wanted to ride form 80 kms, on a flat surface. I decided to ride with assist level 1 to save battery and I found it was to much, I wanted to pedal harder because of fitness purposes and also to save the battery for that 80 kms. I found assist level 1 was to much and my effort was to little for what I wanted... and I could not go fast because it hit the 25 km/h limit.
My wife always use a bit more battery than me and she endup with 25% of battery SOC on his TSDZ2 EBike and I had to pedal the last 5 kms with this Specialized EBike, simple because I could not save battery, because the assist levels are not customized like on our OpenSource firmware for TSDZ2.
- incorrect battery SOC: the battery range on the display was not correct because the motor did stop at 8% SOC and I had to pedal the last 5 kms. That 8% SOC should be enough for that last 5 kms.
- heavier: because I always have to lift with my hand the EBikes to put on the car support, I also had to do this 4 times with this Specialized EBike and I found it heavier, even with my EBike with rear panniers and some tools inside.
Experiencing EBike wireless standard with the Specialized EBike
While I was riding I realized that this Specialized EBike is turned on in the battery and not on the display, like if the display is not really needed and quickly I figured out this model could implement the EBike wireless standard. See that I am in the middle of developing the same EBike wireless standard for TSDZ2.
I had my Garmin GPS unit on the handle bard already because I had our route planned and we were following it. I just had to go to wireless sensors configuration and click on discover new sensors and I got this ones from the Specialized EBike:
Note that the heart rate sensor is the one from my watch:
Then automatically the following main screens were added:
EBike main screen to control assist level, see battery status and light status:
At the end of our ride, on the Garmin app, we can see graphs of fitness and cycling metrics but also the pedal human power, speed and cadence were recorded:
And interesting is that there is a map showing the route but with color gradients that we can select for some variables and the pedal human power was available:
casainho
10 GW
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
vass said:hehehe tsdz2 dont like portuguese people or the north, had also alot off issues when i was in vacations in Viana do Castelo.
In the end all off them were caused by my mistakes
Also is it better to get a new main gear clutch or replace the bearing in the old one with a better one?
I lack the tools and knowledge to replace the bearing so I just simple buy and install a new main gear - took me 20 minutes no install the new one.
bergerandfries
1 W
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2019
- Messages
- 59
My sprag clutch just died this morning. 2000 miles or 3200km on the motor with OSF the whole life of the motor. It started with a strange squeak at a non-consistent point of rotation of the cranks for probably a couple of hundred miles. Then the chain started skipping in only the most extreme outside rear gear (highest gear on my 9 spd rear cassette). This went on for a week or so, say 30-40 miles. Then the clutch just totally spun out this morning. I'd make a video, but this one has done it all! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldJ4rTrNlC8
jeff.page.rides
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2019
- Messages
- 295
This is a copy of a reply to an email I received asking about the displays and firmware available for the TSDZ2.
I thought I would share my opinion on the different versions of firmware and the different displays
Hi Lee,
There are four different displays with three different firmware programs available for the TSDZ2. The 860C display only works with V1 but is by far the best display. The 850C display works with V1 and V19 but you can’t read it in the sun. The LCD3 display works with V19 and V20 and is a good display that works in the sun, but has to be disassembled to flash. The VLCD5 is a very limited display that works with the stock firmware and V20. But to change settings or view different information with V20 is very difficult. But the display doesn’t need to be flashed, only the motors need to be flashed and it’s easy and very quick to flash with different settings and works well with V20.
Version 1 is very refined but very complex and difficult to set up and to get working correctly. It does have the potential to be very good at some point down the road, but at this time lacks low RPM power and starting power. It also doesn't work well with a coaster brake, when you stop pedaling it stops but has a high rate of resistance when you pull back to brake, you have to move the pedals back forward 1 inch then pull back again and the resistance stops so you can brake.
It is the only version at this time that works on the 860C which is the best display.
Version 20 is very good, but it could use a few refinements. I believe this is the very best software for any setup.
I hope at some point someone will get version 20 to work with the 860C.
Version 19 is an older version that some people still like, but will never be improved, it does not work with coaster brake motors.
If you could take the good parts of version 1 and version 20 and get them to work on an 860C that would be the very best scenario.
Later,
Jeff
I thought I would share my opinion on the different versions of firmware and the different displays
Hi Lee,
There are four different displays with three different firmware programs available for the TSDZ2. The 860C display only works with V1 but is by far the best display. The 850C display works with V1 and V19 but you can’t read it in the sun. The LCD3 display works with V19 and V20 and is a good display that works in the sun, but has to be disassembled to flash. The VLCD5 is a very limited display that works with the stock firmware and V20. But to change settings or view different information with V20 is very difficult. But the display doesn’t need to be flashed, only the motors need to be flashed and it’s easy and very quick to flash with different settings and works well with V20.
Version 1 is very refined but very complex and difficult to set up and to get working correctly. It does have the potential to be very good at some point down the road, but at this time lacks low RPM power and starting power. It also doesn't work well with a coaster brake, when you stop pedaling it stops but has a high rate of resistance when you pull back to brake, you have to move the pedals back forward 1 inch then pull back again and the resistance stops so you can brake.
It is the only version at this time that works on the 860C which is the best display.
Version 20 is very good, but it could use a few refinements. I believe this is the very best software for any setup.
I hope at some point someone will get version 20 to work with the 860C.
Version 19 is an older version that some people still like, but will never be improved, it does not work with coaster brake motors.
If you could take the good parts of version 1 and version 20 and get them to work on an 860C that would be the very best scenario.
Later,
Jeff
There is forgotten one version of the OSF based on v0.20b1, but with some additions that are also inside v1.0.jeff.page.rides said:
That is the OSF BTversion of mspider65, that works with bluetooth and Android display.
jeff.page.rides
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2019
- Messages
- 295
Elinx said:
I haven't been following the wireless forum, I didn't know that some code from V20 was being used. Thats good to hear, I thought it was all code from V1. Can this version be flashed and used on the 860C with out using any wireless devices? I have two hand cycles one has tried the VLC5 & the LCD3, both with V20, the other one has tried the LCD3 and 860C with V20 and V1. My wifes bike has a 850C and has tried V19 threw V1. We have used the displays and firmware versions in the last several months. It's a lot of work consistently changing systems but it's the only way to compare them accurately. Thanks to electrifybike.com for flashing them each time, and my wife and family for being my hands. As a weak handcyclest I notice things easier than others. And the TSDZ2 is 18" in front of my face, so can hear small changes and can touch the TSDZ2 anytime easily.
SlowCo
1 MW
casainho said:
That looks great :thumb:
jeff.page.rides said:
Jeff do you know whether an 850C display can be used with the stock TSDZ2 firmware? Have a TSDZ2 with OSF that I need to restore back to the stock profile but my display is an 850C. If so, any idea where I can download the program files that will change the 850c OSF display back to the original Bafang GUI, or whatever user interface supports using an 850C with stock TSDZ2. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
jeff.page.rides
100 W
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2019
- Messages
- 295
Big_Daddy said:
Yes if your TSDZ2 came with stock firmware on the 850C when you bought them together then it's possible to put it back on. But if you bought an 850C separately from your TSDC2 or with OSF software you can not put the original software back on. If it came with a VLCD5 you can put the original firmware back on the TSDZ2 or you can put version 20 on the TSDZ2 that works very well.
