Kepler Bottom Bracket Friction Drive For Sale (Finally)

Hi all.

Just letting you know drive brackets are now back in stock. Please contact me via PM if you are interested in purchasing.

$100 USD plus postage ($20 USD anywhere in the world)
Manual supplied with purchase detailing other required parts and installation.

You will need to purchase separately and suitable outrunner motor, Vesc controller, and battery. There is a guide at the start of this thread to help you understand how the complete drive is put together.

I also have limited quantities of Arduino interfaces and custom button throttles.

An example of the extreme stealth that can be achieved.
Speed controller and interface hidden inside the frame and a single 6S 6000mah Lipo battery hidden in the water bottle.
150 Watts for an hour which is plenty on this type bike.
 

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Kepler said:
Hi all.

Just letting you know drive brackets are now back in stock. Please contact me via PM if you are interested in purchasing.

$100 USD plus postage ($20 USD anywhere in the world)
Manual supplied with purchase detailing other required parts and installation.

You will need to purchase separately and suitable outrunner motor, Vesc controller, and battery. There is a guide at the start of this thread to help you understand how the complete drive is put together.

I also have limited quantities of Arduino interfaces and custom button throttles.

An example of the extreme stealth that can be achieved.
Speed controller and interface hidden inside the frame and a single 6S 6000mah Lipo battery hidden in the water bottle.
150 Watts for an hour which is plenty on this type bike.
so what would be a rough estimate costwise for a complete setup using the exact specs on this bike?
 
The bike is 2018 Trek Domane SL7 Project One. Cost around $6000 USD. Approx $400 USD for the complete electric drive system (not including labour of course :) ).

I decided to use this bike because you have access to the inside the frame through a small removable cover under the water bottle

I am using a modified bracket for the carbon frame. The drive bracket uses the same lower section and pivot mechanism but a custom clamping upper bracket. Its not something I offer as there are so many different carbon frames and the clamp I used was hand built and very specific to this bike. Just showing what can be achieved with this system.

If you want to do something similar with a road bike, find a frame using a bottom bracket with screw in bearing cups. (these are becoming popular again) Also road bike manufacturers are starting to offer in frame storage solutions which will be perfect for this drive. Check out the 2020 Trek Domane bikes.
 
hey kepler, coulndt the motor be permanently in contact with the tyre. lets say if you ran out of juice or wanted to pedal without boost you could decouple it. that would allow for tesla style piloting?
 
You could lock it up if you wanted to by removing the shim washer in the pivot mech. You could then lock it on the tire when you wanted and unlock it off the tire should you run out of batteries.

I do run a permanent contact setup with my mountain bike which has some advantages.(Thread on that bike here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=96581). Firstly it will work in wet weather providing you keep the Watt limit quite low (around 200W) and secondly you can set up the drive for regen if you want to. Regen works really well with a Vesc controller and makes a lot of sense on a mountain bike as you are typically spending quite a bit of time going down hill.

On a road bike, it makes more sense to have the drive decouple when not required so you get the most out the natural pedaling efficiency of a light weight road bike.

Certainly the option is there to use both methods.

I am glad you mentioned this as it is feature I haven't documented with this drive.
 
Kepler said:
You could lock it up if you wanted to by removing the shim washer in the pivot mech. You could then lock it on the tire when you wanted and unlock it off the tire should you run out of batteries.

I do run a permanent contact setup with my mountain bike which has some advantages.(Thread on that bike here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=96581). Firstly it will work in wet weather providing you keep the Watt limit quite low (around 200W) and secondly you can set up the drive for regen if you want to. Regen works really well with a Vesc controller and makes a lot of sense on a mountain bike as you are typically spending quite a bit of time going down hill.

On a road bike, it makes more sense to have the drive decouple when not required so you get the most out the natural pedaling efficiency of a light weight road bike.

Certainly the option is there to use both methods.

I am glad you mentioned this as it is feature I haven't documented with this drive.

Hi ive pmed with regards to the updated bracket design and implementing regen on my old kit. Thanks!
 
I've ordered the drive kit and am piecing together the rest of the parts.

What's the latest recommendation on the controller? I was looking at the Vesp-x but have been unable to find. It looks like it is now rebranded as Enertion FocBox, but I am only finding the Unity variant that is listed at $300.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Kepler said:
Hi all.

Just letting you know drive brackets are now back in stock. Please contact me via PM if you are interested in purchasing.

$100 USD plus postage ($20 USD anywhere in the world)
Manual supplied with purchase detailing other required parts and installation.

You will need to purchase separately and suitable outrunner motor, Vesc controller, and battery. There is a guide at the start of this thread to help you understand how the complete drive is put together.

I also have limited quantities of Arduino interfaces and custom button throttles.

An example of the extreme stealth that can be achieved.
Speed controller and interface hidden inside the frame and a single 6S 6000mah Lipo battery hidden in the water bottle.
150 Watts for an hour which is plenty on this type bike.

Hi could you please pm me details as well.. been on the fence forever and am finally ready to get it. Cheers
 
Researching on the best way to build my friction drive, and Kepler is awsome! Seriously considering Kepler brackets.

But a question if u dont mind pls? (is it ok to post questions here?)

Im quite familiar with ebike / escooter controllers. Been using them for few good years. But why do you guys recommend this drone controller (VESC) ? Any particular advantages over regular chinese ebike controllers? I see that this recommended Flipsky vesc4 cost considerable more then a 36v ebike controller ....

Thanks!
 
tcss000 said:
Researching on the best way to build my friction drive, and Kepler is awsome! Seriously considering Kepler brackets.

But a question if u dont mind pls? (is it ok to post questions here?)

Im quite familiar with ebike / escooter controllers. Been using them for few good years. But why do you guys recommend this drone controller (VESC) ? Any particular advantages over regular chinese ebike controllers? I see that this recommended Flipsky vesc4 cost considerable more then a 36v ebike controller ....

Thanks!
1) VESC it's not a drone controller, how did you get that? VESC was originally designed for skateboards.
2) VESC is small and can be programmed to do much more than just control motor.
3) VESC 4.12 can handle up to 60k erpm and VESC 6 150k erpm.
If you want to know more check the esk8 forum.
www.electric-skateboard.builders
 
Hey Kepler,

I'm interested in purchasing a bracket for my gravel bike, and was also wondering if you're providing anymore kits with programmed VESC, Arduino, and throttle etc.

Thanks,
Joe
 
@Kepler,

Any suggestions on what to do when the motor just doesn't seem to have enough "oomph" to kick up to the tire when its resting spot is off of the tire? I've tried adjusting the gravity spring to get the motor as close as I can to the tire, but it just doesn't seem to want to kick up into a driving position when I apply power. I'm using a 63mm outrunner that's pretty heavy (almost 700g). I went big because I'd read that the larger diameter motors tend to run cooler, and I'm a clydesdale. :oops:

Do you think a motor with a 50mm can size might kick up better? Or perhaps a shorter 63mm unit like [urlhttps://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aerodrive-sk3-6354-260kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html]the one you recommend in your documentation[/url]?a BTW that one calls for an 8s-10s battery - does it work OK on a 6s pack?
 
There are 3 possible reasons for this.

1 > Your speed controller is ramping throttle too slowly.

2 > You are not applying enough power. (Needs to be above 100W)

3 > The most likely reason is that you have not got the correct geometry setup on the drive. Please refer to the picture below.

Drive9.JPG

In the engaged position, draw a line through the bracket pivot point, the centre of the motor, and wheel axle. The centre of the motor should sit just below this line. If you send me a side on picture of your bike with the drive fitted, I will be able to confirm if the geometry is correct.
 
Hi John,


I would love one of your its on my folding bike is there any way this can be made a reality love your work.

I am new to the scene so may be a bit late hope you still have this available :)

Thanks in advance.


Milan
 
I have standard drive brackets available however the design may not suit a folding bike due to the typical distances between the bottom bracket and the face of the tire. The drive is adjustable from 60mm to 110mm. The drawing in the previous post shows the drive set to 80mm.

However the bracket lends itself to be be adapted to a custom bracket that suits your bike as the main mounting plate is in two halves.

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Below is a concept on how to mount the drive on a bike using the kickstand space between the bottom bracket and the tire. To be clear I don't make a kickstand mount, just showing an example of how the mount can easily be customized.
 

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Hi John,

Thanks for the reply I am not very technical and looking for a whole system to purchase, so you only sell brackets at the moment is that correct?

Happy to pay whatever it is am in Melbourne and the closest thing I have found to this is Hidden Power but I like yours better :p

Anyway let me know if it may be at all possible to get something made up I am in Blackburn which is not far from you I believe :)


Milan
 
I also have a folding bike. Thank you for that mockup of a kickstand mount. Do you think a steel corner bracket would be stiff enough to mount the drive bracket?

everbilt-corner-braces-20487-64_1000 (1).jpg
 
Hi Kepler,

I've just heard about your stunning friction drive mounts and would like to purchase one if possible.

Based on your latest suggestions, its planed to be mounted on the kickstand mounting platform with a kickstand counter plate like this: https://www.hebie.de/en/parking/stand-accessories/attachmspare-parts/counter-plate/ a probably custom-­built threaded block and an adjustable mounting bracket with 2 long holes, like shown in your latest picture. If one of the hole spacings (22 / 25 / 30 mm) should match, the Ganter Norm GN 828 Bearing block https://www.ganternorm.com/en/produ...s-for-Stainless-Steel-Adjusting-screws-GN-827 could also be a convenient solution.

Referring to the adjustable brackets: are these also included or would it be possible to purchase them seperately?

Thanks!
 
Got one for sale if interessted
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=107749
Thanks
 
Hi Kepler!
I just recently discovered your very well designed friction drive, and I am trying to get my hands on one.
Are there any left from the last batch? If not, is a new batch coming?

Thanks!
 
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