New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

Swannking said:
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.

mctubster said:
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.
 
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?
 
Try to put the stock firmware on just to ensure its not a bad config on osf (or a strange bug).

Andrew707 said:
Swannking said:
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.

mctubster said:
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.
 
It means that its probably dead and you need a new one , you could try to check if the programming software (STVisualProgrammer) can read/write from and to it, but my guess is you fried it (with luck the lcd is ok)

szchz said:
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?
 
leisesturm said:
maximusdm said:
1. Why does the sensor value not change on force?
2. Also is there a way to simulate pedal force without installing it on motor?
3. I read the wiki but is not very clear how to do it with 2 screwdrivers.
3a. Maybe someone knows better how a torque sensor works and has some ideas.
1. It probably is changing, however, it is calibrated to record force levels FAR ... FAR in excess of anything you can generate with your fingers.
2. No. See answer 1. Above. The whole system has to be assembled and the test weights need to work through the leverage of the ~6"+ crank length to generate meaningful signal levels.
3.I skimmed the wiki and did not take away anything involving Screwdrivers. What I took away was that calibration could involve known weights like large bags of sugar, or flour, or children(!). I can't see how you could simulate a 'known' weight with two Screwdrivers. I would probably be unconscious after two Screwdrivers but your alcohol tolerance might be much higher.
3a. It has been explained to me how the torque sensor works. To have better ideas than the ones in the wiki, I would need to know what exactly is your issue? Is your motor operational or not?
Hi,

By calibration hardware I mean the process in which the torque sensor range is increased significantly versus stock. Usually the torque sensor can measure up to 260 torque units. If it starts from 180, the whole range is 80 units.
If you manage to align the magnets and the sensors correct you can start from 60 lets say. So 200 units range. I do not make the software process implemented in latest version of OSF with weights.

The symptoms are: the display starts with no errors and on pedal press the motor is not started. When checking the diag menu for torque sensor, the value is constant: 80 units.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-calibrate-the-torque-sensor
Please see:How to adjust the torque sensor part below.
 
vass said:
It means that its probably dead and you need a new one , you could try to check if the programming software (STVisualProgrammer) can read/write from and to it, but my guess is you fried it (with luck the lcd is ok)

szchz said:
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?

yup, I can read/write no problem.
 
vass said:
Try to put the stock firmware on just to ensure its not a bad config on osf (or a strange bug).

Andrew707 said:
Swannking said:
A quick google search showed E04 is throttle error.
Yeah, I saw that too but my motor is 6 pin with no throttle function.

mctubster said:
Did you do the temp sensor mod? Do you have it correctly configured in the firmware?
No, I didn't do temp sensor mod. The only modification I did was heat dissipation "improvement" after which I started having all these problems.
Good idea! It was worth a try. However, the problem persists. Stock firmware doesn't show E04 error but the motor stops working after biking for half a minute or so. :(

I was thinking what else could be wrong... So back in the days when everything worked fine I noticed that there was a bit of play when pedalling with no power on. Once any assist level is turned on then the pedal play disappears. Right now I put everything very tightly and there's no play with no power on. Maybe by overtightening bottom bracket lock ring I pressed the right side too much on the bottom bracket shell and damaged something? I've tried loosening the lock ring but the problem doesn't go away.
 
Retrorockit said:
ATF is thinner, and has Anti foaming properties. If you want to do this you can clean the grease out of the roller/sprag clutches also. ATF is the perfect lube for those. ATF has become the normal lube for a lot of manual transmissions, and even the final drive on fwd cars. Adding fins to the outside of the cover will be useful just as with air cooling. The drag of the rotor in the ATF will tend to heat up the fluid. Leaks will probably happen. But I'm all in favor of someone else trying it.

I'd love to have a go. Especially if it reduces the sound a bit. I still would like to use my blue nylon gear though. Any thoughts on which oils would not soften the nylon?
 
Hello everyone,

I have been using the TSDZ2 on my MTB for about 800 miles now and have been very happy with the install. I'm currently looking at adding a Bafang 860c screen and open source firmware. I've successfully built a bootloader out of some old Arduino bits and flashed the screen but, before I swap out the existing XH-18 and upload the new firmware to the motor, I was wondering if anyone could help me with some of the set up options please? In particular it is the 'Max current' and 'low cut-off' fields in the battery section: https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Features-and-configurations-on-display#Battery that I'm struggling to find the right values for.

I'm currently running a Junstar 36v 10Ah RF2500 kettle battery which apparently has a 10s8p configuration. I've not been able to find a more detailed data sheet anywhere, nor a direct way of contacting the manufacturer. Does anyone know where I might find this information, or can anyone suggest some sensible default values that I should be using for this kind of battery?

Many thanks
 
safe cutoff voltage for typical LiIon cells is 3.0V, so with 10 cells in series ("10S"), you would multiply those voltages by 10, so 30V low voltage cutoff

8P sounds funny for a 10AH, that would suggest the individual battery cells are only 1250 mAH, while the usual 18650s are more typically 2400-3500 mAH depending on quality. A 36V 10AH bottle battery can probably sustain as high as 20 amps, 350 watts is at most 10 amps, so setting it to 15 amps won't limit your motor power (thats another setting, anyways)
 
Hello! I have had the TSDZ2 for a while now and love it. However I have had a bit of an issue for the entire time I've owned it. The crank has some play, and the chainring has some play. I know everything externally is tight (allen bolts that hold the chainring and spider, lock ring etc., all of the movement seems to be in the chainring spider. I emailed the vendor on Amazon and they told me it was normal...So i ignored it and rode 1500km. I know that wasn't the best idea, but I was frustrated and wanted to ride.

However winter is about to hit and I wouldn't mind getting my bike ready for the frosty commute, so now is the time to tackle this issue. I have posted a GIF of the wiggle below from a when I first noticed (It hasn't really gotten much worse).

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/com...th this issue. I would love to figure it out.
 
I keep getting this error message. I tried two different displays and two different ST-Link. Loaded and installed "en.stsw-link009". Then "SW102_First_Install_Windows" is loaded and "sw102-full-0.19.11.hex" is extracted into the folder. The correct wiring was checked several times and finally painted on a piece of paper.
 

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Can anyone please tell me where the 3 springs behind the torque sensor should sit? In the long slots by themselves, or around the nipple in the circular holes? There's conflicting info around.. OK Feet's disassembly video shows them in the circular holes, but other repair guides show them in the long slots.

Edit: I just read the comments in the OK Feet video, someone else mentioned their springs were in the slots instead and there were marks on the back of the disc where the springs had been. Sure enough, checking my disc in the light shows some marks indicating the springs were previously located in the slots. So I wonder if they changed the positioning at some stage or has that motor been taken apart and put back together wrong.
 

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I have this problem too, which is posted unanswered in the "E-Bike Technical" section. Anyone have any ideas?
by cellmate » Jul 13 2020 3:16pm

Hi there,

I just got a brand new TSDZ2 from eco-cycles. It is working, but have noticed that the resistance when turning the cranks is not continuous all the way around. It is smooth all the way except one spot, where it has a bit more friction. It's not a huge amount, but you can feel it when pedaling. There is also a subtle/quiet grinding sound at that point. It's very quiet (nothing like some of the things I've found when googling this), but it is definitely there once you notice it.

I noticed that if I put the bike on the repair stand and use the throttle to turn the chainring, there is a tiny wobble to it, right at the point where it makes the sound.

I removed the drive-side crank, chainring, and spider, and ran it again. Now the motor is smooth and silent. If I put the spider back on again but don't tighten the 5 retaining bolts fully, it is also smooth. As soon as I tighten them even the tiniest bit (< 1nm) the wobble and grind comes back.

The motor works, but I feel like something isn't right, and I suspect it will get worse if I don't deal with it sooner rather than later.

Has anyone had this before?
 
Hello guys, can you recommend any service guide for TSDZ2?
I have the 750w motor, I done so far 1300km and no problem so far.
I need a guide to provide my mechanic, so I can help him do the maintenance service of the motor.

Only highlights:
1) a little wobbling (which i had noticed since the installation of the kit) but it is not at annoying level
2) speed sensor does not always work good. sometimes shows 0 km/h, although i am moving fast
 
cargowill said:
Hello! I have had the TSDZ2 for a while now and love it. However I have had a bit of an issue for the entire time I've owned it. The crank has some play, and the chainring has some play. I know everything externally is tight (allen bolts that hold the chainring and spider, lock ring etc., all of the movement seems to be in the chainring spider. I emailed the vendor on Amazon and they told me it was normal...So i ignored it and rode 1500km. I know that wasn't the best idea, but I was frustrated and wanted to ride.

However winter is about to hit and I wouldn't mind getting my bike ready for the frosty commute, so now is the time to tackle this issue. I have posted a GIF of the wiggle below from a when I first noticed (It hasn't really gotten much worse).

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/com...re happy the way your motor is operating now.
 
Strange, then that part of the controller is ok , try to put factory software back just to test the short didnt do something to the one on the controller (like wipping the chip were it is stored).
Did you also test the battery? maybe the short fried the bms and the batt is dead :(

szchz said:
vass said:
It means that its probably dead and you need a new one , you could try to check if the programming software (STVisualProgrammer) can read/write from and to it, but my guess is you fried it (with luck the lcd is ok)

szchz said:
If I blew my controller, would that mean I can't program it?

I forgot to unplug the battery when I cut some cables, sparks flew... my display doesn't work but how do I know if the controller is okay?

yup, I can read/write no problem.
 
Hi,

Anyone with experience in torque sensor has some ideas why the sensor does not read any change in torque?

Thanks!

maximusdm said:
leisesturm said:
maximusdm said:
1. Why does the sensor value not change on force?
2. Also is there a way to simulate pedal force without installing it on motor?
3. I read the wiki but is not very clear how to do it with 2 screwdrivers.
3a. Maybe someone knows better how a torque sensor works and has some ideas.
1. It probably is changing, however, it is calibrated to record force levels FAR ... FAR in excess of anything you can generate with your fingers.
2. No. See answer 1. Above. The whole system has to be assembled and the test weights need to work through the leverage of the ~6"+ crank length to generate meaningful signal levels.
3.I skimmed the wiki and did not take away anything involving Screwdrivers. What I took away was that calibration could involve known weights like large bags of sugar, or flour, or children(!). I can't see how you could simulate a 'known' weight with two Screwdrivers. I would probably be unconscious after two Screwdrivers but your alcohol tolerance might be much higher.
3a. It has been explained to me how the torque sensor works. To have better ideas than the ones in the wiki, I would need to know what exactly is your issue? Is your motor operational or not?
Hi,

By calibration hardware I mean the process in which the torque sensor range is increased significantly versus stock. Usually the torque sensor can measure up to 260 torque units. If it starts from 180, the whole range is 80 units.
If you manage to align the magnets and the sensors correct you can start from 60 lets say. So 200 units range. I do not make the software process implemented in latest version of OSF with weights.

The symptoms are: the display starts with no errors and on pedal press the motor is not started. When checking the diag menu for torque sensor, the value is constant: 80 units.

https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/How-to-calibrate-the-torque-sensor
Please see:How to adjust the torque sensor part below.
 
Adarsh881 said:
cargowill said:
Hello! I have had the TSDZ2 for a while now and love it. However I have had a bit of an issue for the entire time I've owned it. The crank has some play, and the chainring has some play. I know everything externally is tight (allen bolts that hold the chainring and spider, lock ring etc., all of the movement seems to be in the chainring spider. I emailed the vendor on Amazon and they told me it was normal...So i ignored it and rode 1500km. I know that wasn't the best idea, but I was frustrated and wanted to ride.

However winter is about to hit and I wouldn't mind getting my bike ready for the frosty commute, so now is the time to tackle this issue. I have posted a GIF of the wiggle below from a when I first noticed (It hasn't really gotten much worse).

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/com...ch bearings, so I will go that route I think.
 
nomidis said:
...
2) speed sensor does not always work good. sometimes shows 0 km/h, although i am moving fast

Make sure the magnet on the spoke crosses the speed sensor at the tick mark, and not the big end. It also can't be too close, it prefers about 1cm.
 
Finally I have the TSDZ2 wireless board working!! (using the EBike wireless standard)

I did a minimalist very first version that only changes the assist level - on the wireless firmware I setup the default settings for my ebike, like the wheel size, assist level factors, etc. Once I turn on the system, it is ready to work and I just need to change the assist level on the GPS display, using the touch screen or the wireless remote.

Next step is to start working on the Android app so it will be possible to change the settings with it.
Any suggestions for the Android app? - maybe I should fork the TSDZ2-ESP32 Android app??: https://github.com/TSDZ2-ESP32/TSDZ2-ESP32-Main

Here a picture of the wireless board connected to the TSDZ2 LCD connector:

image.png
 
Jaybee258 said:
vass said:
Jaybee258 said:
jbalat said:
Have you tried using the OSF version that works with the VLCD5 ? My friend used it and he is very happy. He came over to my house and it only took a few moments to flash it.

I do have a copy of it on my laptop in the garage if you cant find any links to it
https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=98281

link to download
https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1

Thanks jbalat
Do you think this will work with the 52v battery? The VLCD-5 will be expecting 48v and I don't think I can change that.

It Will, i have the same firmware in a 52v13amp battery. You can also use the temp sensor

That's great. I will let you know how I get on. I will discharge my battery to 48 volts too. Will I see a temp reading, or does it just protect the motor?

Thanks casainho, vass, Elinx, jabalat, Behan for the help. I have got the modified stock working. It was a problem with option bytes. I'm going to ride it a bit before I try OSF again

So, this is the first time I have ridden the TSDZ2 and I'm amazed how good it is. Far far better than the Bosh that I had hired in the Alps. My first ride was 112 miles along the canal, so it is very economical. Next, I have been on steep muddy trails and a trail center in the Yorkshire Dales where I normally push. Incredible, and I can see why casainho has chosen this motor as the base for his project. Brilliant.

I mounted the motor on a trek ex8 full suss. Mounting the battery is tricky and still lives in my rucsack, but the bike is still light and we'll balanced. I thought ground clearance was going to be a big problem. I may make a bash guard, but this won't help cooling. Any good ideas? I included a wattmeter on the battery, and this is proving very interesting and very useful in working out range and planning long trips. It is possible that it will do 200miles in eco on tarmac with slicks, no wind and flat roads. We will see

I'm off up Ingleborough, then 3000' Skiddaw and Helvellyn in the UK Lakes before I do any more flashing. It is a mountainbike after all... I do fear that maybe my 860c display is faulty and is causing all my problems, a bit stuck on how to solve that one, but I can try OSF with VLCD-5 first.
 
AZUR said:
Hi all,

I would like to share with the Forum what I did on the TSDZ2 engine to improve heat dissipation.

Part 1

I acted in 3 areas:

1 - Installation of Thermal Pad according to what is described in this forum.
2 - Installation of heatsinks in the motor housing
3 - Lubricate the engine with a grease suitable for nylon Blue Gear.
I lubricated with a grease that is used to lubricate the nylon gears in the wind turbines. I used the Molykote PG-65 grease.

Below are some pictures.


Hi Azur. Thanks for sharing, and great work. I like the heat sinks that you made. That's the first time I've seen that done. Where did you get those from and how did you fix them? Many thanks
 
Jaybee258 said:
AZUR said:
Hi all,

I would like to share with the Forum what I did on the TSDZ2 engine to improve heat dissipation.

Part 1

I acted in 3 areas:

1 - Installation of Thermal Pad according to what is described in this forum.
2 - Installation of heatsinks in the motor housing
3 - Lubricate the engine with a grease suitable for nylon Blue Gear.
I lubricated with a grease that is used to lubricate the nylon gears in the wind turbines. I used the Molykote PG-65 grease.

Below are some pictures.


Hi Azur. Thanks for sharing, and great work. I like the heat sinks that you made. That's the first time I've seen that done. Where did you get those from and how did you fix them? Many thanks
I would like to add the heat sink also. Looks like u screwed then onto the housing. I think using JB weld should work also and more simple.
 
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