Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

Hello I was just wondering if I could get a little help. I just purchased a Nucular 6f and got it all set up today and so far am very impressed but have a slight problem. I am using a cyclone 3000w motor and 72v battery and the controller is in FOC mode with hall start. the problem is when I start to pull away the motor stutters, it only happens on very low throttle. is there some setting somewhere that will help me get rid of the stutter ? or has anyone got a cyclone 3000w already set up that I can have the config for ?. Any Help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Did you get this resolved. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I'm using the 46kv 30mm LMX motor which is similar to your cyclone. Mine stutters really bad when I barely creep on the throttle from a roll. It also does it really bad when the wheel is at max speed when off the ground. So its definitely related to transitioning from light load. This is bad in FOC mode.

I changed it to square sensored mode and the transient load stutter problem mostly goes away. However in square mode with sensored or combo mode I can get it to fault by opening the throttle too fast from a dead stop. It will kill the throttle for a few seconds then recover. It acts like its unable to sync under that quickly changing load.

I'm not using any of the clutch settings. Its a direct drive setup with little to no chain slack and no freewheel.

Sine mode does not work at all which is common for this motor. Sensorless stutters violently unless I am very slow with the throttle.

Throttle is in torque mode.

The only setup I have done is the Full auto setup routine. When it is free spinning during the auto setup routine it stutters really bad the whole time.

Should I start messing with the hall settings manually?
 
DanGT86 said:
Did you get this resolved. Mine is doing the exact same thing. I'm using the 46kv 30mm LMX motor which is similar to your cyclone. Mine stutters really bad when I barely creep on the throttle from a roll. It also does it really bad when the wheel is at max speed when off the ground. So its definitely related to transitioning from light load. This is bad in FOC mode.

I changed it to square sensored mode and the transient load stutter problem mostly goes away. However in square mode with sensored or combo mode I can get it to fault by opening the throttle too fast from a dead stop. It will kill the throttle for a few seconds then recover. It acts like its unable to sync under that quickly changing load.

I'm not using any of the clutch settings. Its a direct drive setup with little to no chain slack and no freewheel.

Sine mode does not work at all which is common for this motor. Sensorless stutters violently unless I am very slow with the throttle.

Throttle is in torque mode.

The only setup I have done is the Full auto setup routine. When it is free spinning during the auto setup routine it stutters really bad the whole time.

Should I start messing with the hall settings manually?
Click to expand...
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=97163&start=325 looks like he got an answer here
 
24s Lifepo4 ok, lithium-ion impossible. It's 90v max !
 
serious_sam said:
john61ct said:
So 22S otherwise, and even then keeping charging well below 4.1V
Click to expand...
The maximum recommended pack for Nucular controllers is 20S.
Click to expand...
So there are components that can't tolerate over 84V

or just building in a conservative cushion for extra reliability / longevity?
 
Darren2018 said:
I am seriously surprised that nobody has asked this question before. :confused:
Click to expand...

It is certainly because you looked badly. The question has been asked many times.
 
serious_sam said:
Darren2018 said:
I am seriously surprised that nobody has asked this question before. :confused:
Click to expand...
Or you could just use field weakening...
Click to expand...

I have been trying to understand if field weakening is a true replacement for kV but I can't find or get an answer from anyone. Does FW really make the motor behave like one with a higher kV?

PITMIX said:
Darren2018 said:
I am seriously surprised that nobody has asked this question before. :confused:
Click to expand...

It is certainly because you looked badly. The question has been asked many times.
Click to expand...

Even without 100V+ it is still the best controller. The features, design and price beat every controller on the market imo.
 
FW is the weakening of the magnetic field of the motor at high speed. It only increases the rotational speed when maximum rpm is reached. The magnetic field being lower, the motor turns faster because it turns freely without resistance, but this implies a drop in torque. It is the same as increasing the voltage for maximum speed but it does not allow to have as much acceleration and power at low revs. This is how I understand it.
 
PITMIX said:
FW is the weakening of the magnetic field of the motor at high speed. It only increases the rotational speed when maximum rpm is reached. The magnetic field being lower, the motor turns faster because it turns freely without resistance, but this implies a drop in torque. It is the same as increasing the voltage for maximum speed but it does not allow to have as much acceleration and power at low revs. This is how I understand it.
Click to expand...

Finally as explanation that I can understand! :lol:

Now I would just like to see it on a graph like a before and after but that is for another thread.
 
Could anyone from the Nucular team tell me when uLight will be ready? When can we expect the 24S BMS system? And most importantly when can I expect my 1350 24F order to be ready to ship? 8)
 
Pretty hard to try to predict the future, lots of uncontrolled variables in the mix.

I'm sure Vasili is doing his best.

Use Telegram for more direct comms
 
I was going to order one of these units until i read a few posts lol.One month isnt quick enough let alone some of you guys waiting six plus months is crazy,guess its each to there own :wink:
 
Problem is the other big-current FOC options, can't be programmed for an arbitrary motor without paying an expert to do the programming for you.

Solutiin is, place your Nuc order now - cost you nothing, zero downside, and

meantime use a quicker cheaper unit to "get by"
 
@speedy1984 If you have an urgent need to get your machine up and running quickly grab a cheap controller and have fun while your Nucular gets home. Definitely worth the wait. Even though other controllers can give the same performance, you won't find the possibility of having the same customization and modifications so easy to do. So far the only one that does the same is the Adaptto.
 
BAC or Nucular are probably the best controllers available. BAC look like they have the more professional solution but Nucular has far more useful features for the average consumer. When you buy the Nucular you are buying more than a controller you are actually investing in an eco system, you will get the opportunity to have a perfectly integrated lighting solution, an efficient lightweight feature rich BMS and a neat charging solution. Most controllers do not even include charging let alone the option to have sophisticated lighting and a BMS all neatly integrated. When I last spoke to Vasily it sounded like he had more features he was planning to incorporate into the Nucular line up so again you are not just getting something that is an EOL product from the get go you are actually getting way more as each firmware is released. The journey and development of this product will be exciting which is another reason to wait for the Nucular.
 
BACs are far away from professional. beside their frocking idea to have a login to setup their shit, half of them blown and need repairs.
some just die seconds from startup, other for no reason. search about ASI problems and after that search NUC problems.
ASI controllers have no Protections at all.

i would give 10$ for it to get the info why their controllers have stickers:
made in china
made in canada
made in taiwan

you cannot tell me they have 3 factories producing their shit.

anyway. nuculars are the best you can get if you are on a DIY setup.
 
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