E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

Odogster said:
Hello all,

Can anyone tell me what is involved in switching from a triple crown to a single crown fork on a Stealth Bomber please?
Click to expand...

I can't think of any reason you'd have a problem making the switch. Just make sure you have a 1 1/8" straight stem.
 
Odogster said:
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
Click to expand...

What kind of computer are you using?
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Odogster said:
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
Click to expand...

What kind of computer are you using?
Click to expand...

Do you mean to get into the Sabvoton?
 
I was able to pick up a nice set of DVO Emeralds so looks like i wont be switching after all. Thank you guys for the help either way!
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Odogster said:
Hello all,

Can anyone tell me what is involved in switching from a triple crown to a single crown fork on a Stealth Bomber please?
Click to expand...

I can't think of any reason you'd have a problem making the switch. Just make sure you have a 1 1/8" straight stem.
Click to expand...

Would the single crown, not make the front a lot lower?
 
Odogster said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Odogster said:
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
Click to expand...

What kind of computer are you using?
Click to expand...

Do you mean to get into the Sabvoton?
Click to expand...

Well, my bike came with a CA3. B52 use DC3 in think. I was just wondering what you might be using with a Sabcoton if anything?
 
Santacruz said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Odogster said:
Hello all,

Can anyone tell me what is involved in switching from a triple crown to a single crown fork on a Stealth Bomber please?
Click to expand...

I can't think of any reason you'd have a problem making the switch. Just make sure you have a 1 1/8" straight stem.
Click to expand...

Would the single crown, not make the front a lot lower?
Click to expand...

No not necessarily, it just depends on the length of the fork legs.
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
Santacruz said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
Odogster said:
Hello all,

Can anyone tell me what is involved in switching from a triple crown to a single crown fork on a Stealth Bomber please?
Click to expand...

I can't think of any reason you'd have a problem making the switch. Just make sure you have a 1 1/8" straight stem.
Click to expand...

Would the single crown, not make the front a lot lower?
Click to expand...

No not necessarily, it just depends on the length of the fork legs.
Click to expand...

That was sort of my point. Most triple crown have 180 to 200 mm travel. Most single crown have 80 to 110 (maybe more IDK), so I would guess ending up about 80mm +/- shorter in the swap. Just something to be aware of and measure for.
 
My sons 2015 B52. I just installed new tires. He's always run crazy bob's because that's what Stealth uses so they must be the best. I've been telling him Hook Worms beat the crap out of them, but what do I know, I'm just the monkey butt that works on his bike for free. This time he didn't have a choice, he couldn't find any crazy bob's.

 
Theodore Voltaire said:
My sons 2015 B52. I just installed new tires. He's always run crazy bob's because that's what Stealth uses so they must be the best. I've been telling him Hook Worms beat the crap out of them, but what do I know, I'm just the monkey butt that works on his bike for free. This time he didn't have a choice, he couldn't find any crazy bob's.

Click to expand...

That is looking sweet man! So to answer the computer question I originally had the DC1 proprietary Stealth computer, but I don't know if it's possible to use it with a Sabo as I searched but couldn't find anything saying it had been done. So I'm using a UKC1 now or might move to a 750c. I have both here. I also decided on the DVO Emerald upgrade from Stealth so I'm staying with the triple crown for now.
 
Odogster said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
My sons 2015 B52. I just installed new tires. He's always run crazy bob's because that's what Stealth uses so they must be the best. I've been telling him Hook Worms beat the crap out of them, but what do I know, I'm just the monkey butt that works on his bike for free. This time he didn't have a choice, he couldn't find any crazy bob's.

Click to expand...

That is looking sweet man! So to answer the computer question I originally had the DC1 proprietary Stealth computer, but I don't know if it's possible to use it with a Sabo as I searched but couldn't find anything saying it had been done. So I'm using a UKC1 now or might move to a 750c. I have both here. I also decided on the DVO Emerald upgrade from Stealth so I'm staying with the triple crown for now.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that information. I'll remember it for when to day comes that I may have to replace my motor. Hopefully not any time soon.
 
Got the dreaded creak sound once again. :x
During a 43 MI ride. Nothing abusive a mellow ride 54 mph top speed 14.3 mph average. Only used 10 AH.
Went down sidewalk curb slow standing and the sound started soon after. So shouldn't be the seat sub frame. Maybe where V-box connects to frame. Will clean up and try to figure it out tomorrow. F##K
 
Well this morning I removed battery. Tightened subframe. Cleaned and decreased my bomber. While drying I found small hairline crack at V-box to frame weld.
Im only 165lbs only ride on smooth streets occasional gravel paths. This is the second time frame has cracked. Many cracked frames in the forum :| .
We are RnD for stealth. This sucks!
I guess I have the 6.0 super duty of stealth.
 
I've had a few cracks in the frame on my bike..
-by the vboxx the rear tab, I had a plate and brace welded in, never had a problem since.
-cracks in the frame by the rear battery box, welded and reinforced.. no longer a problem.
thankfully stealth has a lifetime on the frame but it was easier / cheaper to have a local guy weld it.
 
Odogster said:
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
Click to expand...

What battery specs do you have and what is your output? I'm looking for a new controller and looking at sabo or nuke..
I have 72 35ah battery.. stock clyte motor
 
Thanks..1abv I'll find someone in town to fix it. What's the best replacement for the mini XLR Hall connector? While cleaning got water in it. Bike shutter couple of times. I disconnected it to let it dry out. Plugged back together now nothing. I must have broke one of the wires in it. It's the original connector and has been fixed once already.
Thanks again :thumb:
 
https://www.amazon.com/Plug-Waterproof-Connector-Cable-Black/dp/B007VBSUKS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41uYnwwt2FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0NZK68AFAXBGBYHPN0RY

Here is what I used. I had to shave down the outer par a bit to get it to fit through the frame hole but it works great and it has space to add a therm as well..
 
1abv would you be able to snap a close up photo. Your hall wires and thermostat sensor wires are ran through the frame? Would I have to mess with the cav3 as right now I am not utilizing my motors thermostat wire.
Thanks for the help. 🍺🍻
 
1abv said:
ELECTRICAL:
Replaced all connectors coming from the motor. Ran a separate temp gauge set of wires so I wanted to get one connector to connect all of the halls and the temp wires…
27438167054_3c88e1bea4_z.jpg


The new connectors have waterproof gaskets in them and are twist lock.
27949522072_4930290990_z.jpg


Had to also make a second connector inside the frame which had to be modded to fit in the slot in the back of the frame (it was too wide) so I could disconnect just the CAV or just the controller.
28051925585_f9a59131e5_z.jpg


Heat shrunk everything everwhere…
New Anderson connectors for the battery.
26845119760_9e25b8d113_z.jpg


Everything was either heat shrink connected or silicone taped or both
The new connector for the halls and the temp sensor is attached w Velcro to the vboxx.
Temp sensor was soldered to CAV 3 ( the red and black lines indicate where the wires were soldered.
26845191410_183a3d8958_z.jpg


case was drilled to fit the wires and hotglue holds the wires in place so no tension is on the solder connection.
3m 2 sided HD tape was used to attached the CAV3 on to the frame.
Here is a pic of the wiring harness
27756710081_f4b1c8c971_z.jpg
Click to expand...

Take a look at this... I’ll find pics of the frame.
 
1abv said:
Odogster said:
So I managed to install a Sabo 72150 into my Stealth B52 which has what I believe to be the Crystalyte 5304. It is very fast now, with flux weakening ive hit 50 mph and may have had a couple more to go. The torque is also more than respectable, although not close to a QS205 with the same controller. I think the 205 I have is wired for Torque as with the 150 amp Sabo on it the front wheel lifts off the ground dangerously easily. I already got thrown off once. While the Clyte does not have that kind of pull, like I said before it is more than respectable. Ill try to do some time runs and see what i get. I will def say that the little Clyte controller that came with it was really underutilizing the motor. Now whether or not it blows up in a week or two with this kind of current remains to be seen. But until that happens I highly recommend this mod. Next Im thinking of switching to a single crown fork. Any pointers or advice on that one?
Click to expand...

What battery specs do you have and what is your output? I'm looking for a new controller and looking at sabo or nuke..
I have 72 35ah battery.. stock clyte motor
Click to expand...

Hello, I have a guy who builds me generic cell batteries using 21700 that seem to work great and hold up. The one in my stealth is a 72V 28AH, the one in my sv ebike is a 84V 35AH batt, and they have both been awesome. When I bought the stealth it had a seriously depleted battery in it and not only was i getting less than 10 miles of range but it was shutting down at around 40% and also had this surging feeling all the time when hitting the throttle. Now I am not sure what my range is with the newer battery but I can say ive hit 20 miles and had almost 50% left. The display i use though doesnt represent the remaining battery well and seems to be a bit skewed in that the 2nd 50% of the battery gets a bit less distance than the first 50%. This thing is really, really nice as far as the acceleration curve and top speed go. Im easily hitting over 50 mph on flat ground and it really pulls you out of hole with the torque. I need to find a mod to cool the motor down a bit but the controller runs nice and cool.
 
Thanks for the info!
Do you know what you are putting out (power wise) to the motor? w the stock controller on the older models (mine) is 4500 watts?
 
1abv said:
Thanks for the info!
Do you know what you are putting out (power wise) to the motor? w the stock controller on the older models (mine) is 4500 watts?
Click to expand...
Mine isnt too old, ive been asking around to find the year but no one seems to know or tell me if they do. Its number 833 and it has the 5200 watts. It flies. I cant wait to get my qs205 on it but its having a hall fault so im using the clyte for now
 
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