I received a couple of spare parts recently and there were some interesting changes. First, the blue gear 609RS end ball bearing was very firmly fixed in place whereas it would spin within the gear on the one that came with my motor. And now the drive side cover has a small amount of machining done to the inside to help stop any rubbing of the big gear.
New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"
- Thread starter larsottar
- Start date
No this isn't possible. There are 4 forks of the OSF and you have to choose which you want to use.Jaybee258 said:
Every fork is developed for a certain display and has advantages and disadvantages.
You decide which is most important for you.
1-KT-LCD3 by casainho and buba
2-850C-860C-SW102 by casainho
3-Vlcd5-Vlcd6-XH18 by mbrusa
4-Bluetooth/Android by mspider65
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
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- 6,045
No one should consider KT-LCD3 firmware option as it is outdated, it misses the last good new features that makes TSDZ2 a great option.Elinx said:
Option 850C-860C-SW102 is the one that I keep up to date so is the one I recommend.
I can't talk by options 3 and 4, I don't know how updated they are.
With updates it has also to do with expectations and if you want to jump to another display, but as I can see are option 2 and 4 the most up to date versions with fieldweakening for more effective higher cadence.casainho said:
So imho it is the following update order: 2, 4, 3, 1
Hi! I have ridden my excelent tsdz with osf for 600km now, it was in storage for 6months because problem with the battery. The motor made this strange creaking sound when under load and was outputting lots of torque, I filmed this video back then and now go new battery and the noice still haunts me 
Any ideas what could cause this? I opened the motor, cleaned and re-greased everything 6months ago, with no effect
Video of the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YkTqahKT-o
Thank you very much, awesome motor and excellent community
Edit: In the video you can see the seal around the axle is pretty deep, would that maybe allowed some dirt to get in the axle space, that's the only thin I did not touch back then because I feared I would break the torque sensor
Any ideas what could cause this? I opened the motor, cleaned and re-greased everything 6months ago, with no effectVideo of the sound https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YkTqahKT-o
Thank you very much, awesome motor and excellent community
Edit: In the video you can see the seal around the axle is pretty deep, would that maybe allowed some dirt to get in the axle space, that's the only thin I did not touch back then because I feared I would break the torque sensor
What's the size of the external circlip on sparg clutch axle. Guessing by manual it's 30mm. Thinking about regreasing the secondary gear after 500km only, since it seems to be noisy again. Could be due to cold weather 7°C.
On a previous day at 12°C there didn't seem to be any gritty growling noise similar to struggling tractor.
On a previous day at 12°C there didn't seem to be any gritty growling noise similar to struggling tractor.
bergerandfries
1 W
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- Mar 2, 2019
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- 59
So this thread had some posts about TSDZ2 wearing out standard bicycle parts in the drive train. I had the following damage to my freehub which I suspect was caused by 500W motor power plus my 250W on the smallest cog on the rear hub. The left bit is the inner race with a broken ridge, middle bit is the broken ridge piece, right bit is an intact inner race. A new freehub has fixed the skipping I had on the smallest cog as well when applying full power to the bike.
feketehegyi
100 W
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- Jul 11, 2018
- Messages
- 117
fyi, how I managed to replace sprag clutch bearing at home.
[youtube]Kn-GjeRA1Lw[/youtube]
[youtube]Kn-GjeRA1Lw[/youtube]
bergerandfries
1 W
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- Mar 2, 2019
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When you remove the old sprag clutch, you'll see clear bearing adhesive on the outer surface. This helps the bearing not spin when under load. The loctite or similar automotive bearing and sleeve compound are even better than the clear junk Tong Shen puts on there.sysrq said:
I too have replaced my sprag clutch using just home tools. My advice is to not hold back hammering in the new clutch. Even with heating and cooling things, it's still a very tight fit. Force is needed!
knutselmaaster
1 kW
Just heat the gear with a hair dryer and the bearing will come out easily.
If it doesn't, it means that you are not pressing 100% flat and you risk to damage the fitting.
If it doesn't, it means that you are not pressing 100% flat and you risk to damage the fitting.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
I've replaced two now without using locktight and without problem. Just be aware as with all press fit bearings, if it pushes in without much effort then do use a locking agent.
Also note it will cost you a lot more too get the correct bearing with the O ring indentation, I've been using the standard bearing without and simply looping the small O ring around the outer section with a very small line of " gasket maker " paste around the face, do use this carefully though as you don't want excess in the bearing face.
Please note the inner seal is not a water repelling seal and all the water sealing done, has to be at the cranks seal and the spider, the water has to be stopped getting to the bearing.
Also go along to your nearest metal shop and get them to cut a couple of pieces of tube that fits appropriately, hammering a bearing is never ideal. Both times I've repalced the bearings, if you line up and get the bearing exactly in line, they press in no problem using a vice.
Also note it will cost you a lot more too get the correct bearing with the O ring indentation, I've been using the standard bearing without and simply looping the small O ring around the outer section with a very small line of " gasket maker " paste around the face, do use this carefully though as you don't want excess in the bearing face.
Please note the inner seal is not a water repelling seal and all the water sealing done, has to be at the cranks seal and the spider, the water has to be stopped getting to the bearing.
Also go along to your nearest metal shop and get them to cut a couple of pieces of tube that fits appropriately, hammering a bearing is never ideal. Both times I've repalced the bearings, if you line up and get the bearing exactly in line, they press in no problem using a vice.
Elinx said:
Hi Guys, thank you again for the very useful info. As I said before, I have do far failed to get my 860c to work with 1.0, so am looking for my next best option. I am quite excited to have finally got option 3 above to work. Now I have it working, the TSDZ2 is brilliant, along with great community help and support. Thank you all.
My current feeling is that maybe my 860c is faulty and I am looking to buy another display. I notice the 850 is somewhat cheaper. The New P850c looks almost identical to the 860c but cheaper. Does anybody know if this version of the 850 is also suitable for flashing the OFW 1.0? Thank you
LeftCoastNurd
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2019
- Messages
- 127
the 860 is a little bit larger, and a whole lot brighter.
For those not already convinced, I want to tell you how good I think the TSDZ2 really is. I just cycled up England's two highest legal mountainbikeable mountains. Both +3000'. Helvellyn and Skiddaw. I went for the 52 volt battery to minimise overheating problems on this type of ride, but the motor was still cool on the chilly summit, and I managed to pedal most of the way with minimal pushing. People on the summit could not believe seeing a bike up there. This is what I bought the TSDZ2 for, conquering big mountains and minimising the pushing. My donor bike is a full suspension Trek ex8, so the descent was magic. If I had spent £5k on a bike that did so well, I would have been happy. I kinda half expected to burn the motor out on my first trip , but we are cool.
I met a guy on a +£5k Specialized ebike who was having a great time. Brand new bike but he had already had the motor replaced once under warranty. His mates had also had motors replaced under warranty. They seemed happy with this arrangement because the warranty had been extended to 3 years because of unreliabilities. We could buy 10 replacement TS motors and still be in pocket!!. Spare 500w batteries at £800 too. TSDZ2 may have failings, but don't think paying £5k will get you anything more reliable. Next time you have to replace a blue cog, just think it could be a failed belt drive in a sealed unit needing a new motor.
I met a guy on a +£5k Specialized ebike who was having a great time. Brand new bike but he had already had the motor replaced once under warranty. His mates had also had motors replaced under warranty. They seemed happy with this arrangement because the warranty had been extended to 3 years because of unreliabilities. We could buy 10 replacement TS motors and still be in pocket!!. Spare 500w batteries at £800 too. TSDZ2 may have failings, but don't think paying £5k will get you anything more reliable. Next time you have to replace a blue cog, just think it could be a failed belt drive in a sealed unit needing a new motor.
bergerandfries
1 W
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- Mar 2, 2019
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- 59
Jaybee258 said:
I replaced my failed sprag clutch with a smile on my face! Open Source for the win!
LeftCoastNurd
100 W
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- Oct 22, 2019
- Messages
- 127
TSDZ2 with 860C, 1.0.0 firmware, running at 52V with current limited to 12A to reduce heating. Only ridden it about 70 miles so far, have temp sensor set to shutdown at 185F, and I've only got that once
Several times today it's stopped outputting any power for some distance then started working again. Always at the worst time, like accelerating from a stop, or beginning a hill climb. Display isn't blinking, speed is reading fine, as is cadence and human power, just shows 0 motor watts and 0 amps.
Any idea what might be wrong?
Several times today it's stopped outputting any power for some distance then started working again. Always at the worst time, like accelerating from a stop, or beginning a hill climb. Display isn't blinking, speed is reading fine, as is cadence and human power, just shows 0 motor watts and 0 amps.
Any idea what might be wrong?
LeftCoastNurd
100 W
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- Oct 22, 2019
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- 127
mctubster said:
i believe it is set properly for the 52V battery (Samsung 35E 14S 4P), anyways, I had like an 80% charge when this was happening.
last leg coming home today, I noticed that sometimes 'motor power' would flatline at 180W or some other kind of random value, yet I could intentionally modulate my "human power" all over the place, from less than 100W to around 220 or 240W. then suddenly, I'd be getting the right pookah for the power assist level I'd set (I customized the power assist levels to just 10 rather than 20 and have it set so 4 is a good happy medium, 5 or 6 is extra boost up a hill when I'm tired, and 2 or 3 is good for the flats when I don't want to push my speed too hard. 3 gives me motor power about 2X human power, 4 is more like 3X, and 5 is more like 4X, all powers in watts, and no, I've not calibrated the torque sensor, just using the defaults there the way it came from eco-ebike, who programmed it for me.
as far as how long it misbehaves, its kinda random. sometimes its 3 or 4 or 5 full turns of the cranks, sometimes a fair bit more (10-15 full turns at maybe 60 or 75 cadence). carrying a 1L Hydraflask, and a 9 lb Kryptonite chain my pannier today, climbing the 8% grade I live up was a beating when the boost cut out. I'm not sure I can see how it could be an external wiring issue, as the display never reset, the speed and cadence and human power were always reading correctly.
Hello Community,
I am wanting to splice/wire my stock thumb throttle to my 8 wire cable that goes to the TSDZ2 motor/controller. I am having trouble finding information the wiki that tells which wires which to splice. Maybe someone can help please.
Wires:
Thumb Throttle - yellow, green, red.
8 wire cable to TSDZ2 (remaining 3 wires unspliced) - white, green, orange.
Following is a link to a photo of my cable and throttle.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ap1XSKp4oeU_KV-qhYm6t7TxHdPZvA_v/view?usp=sharing
Many thanks.
I am wanting to splice/wire my stock thumb throttle to my 8 wire cable that goes to the TSDZ2 motor/controller. I am having trouble finding information the wiki that tells which wires which to splice. Maybe someone can help please.
Wires:
Thumb Throttle - yellow, green, red.
8 wire cable to TSDZ2 (remaining 3 wires unspliced) - white, green, orange.
Following is a link to a photo of my cable and throttle.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ap1XSKp4oeU_KV-qhYm6t7TxHdPZvA_v/view?usp=sharing
Many thanks.
LeftCoastNurd said:
May be the torque sensor is failing. I would go into the technical menu which shows the value of the sensor while u are riding and try to see what’s going on with the value when that happens. I highly recommend for u to do the sensor calibration. I used a cheap luggage scale.
casainho
10 GW
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- Feb 14, 2011
- Messages
- 6,045
If the human power is well calculated (you can test it with motor disabled at assist level 0), motor should not give different currents / power than what you expect. I can´t imagine why that would happen. There no reports of such issue.LeftCoastNurd said:
I hope you can figure out the issue...
And don´t forget to update to latest firmware version.
Waynemarlow
10 kW
The only time we have seen motor current draw problems was both times a battery fault. Turned out to be a poor weld on some of the cells which was restricting the current, as soon as you stopped or at rest the voltage would recover back to the norm.
