E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

50069160021_486d17a97d_z.jpg"


down in the valley so low...
 
Hi Guys...

Its been a while since I've been on, I hope everyone is being safe and sound in this crazy year...!!

I still have the 2016 Bomber and everything has been going great up until about a week ago. I got a flat tire in the back, removed the wheel replace the tube and tire while I had the wheel off, put everything back together and now the motor wont turn. All the wires look good, I removed the wheel again, inspected the wires going into the hub and all looked good. Inspected and cleaned all of the connectors and tried again... same thing. The ONLY common denominator is the connectors, so I focused my attention on those. Here is where the issue is... I dont clearly understand what each connector does and I'm unable to find any detailed information on the forum... so where is where I need your help.

I have the following:
1 - BLUE Wire - Socket Connector
1 - YELLOW Wire - Socket Connector
1 - GREEN Wire - Socket Connector - This wire connection feels a little loose to me. The socket on the Controller side, not the wheel side

1 - Silver Connector - The connector has a key-way and has 4 or 5 PIN's
1 - very small Black Connector - The connector is square

Again, I'm not sure what controls what and where I should check for voltage. I did read on one thread that people were having problems with the Blue/Yellow/Green socket connectors and replacing them. While I'm happy to do so if thats the case, I just want to make sure I understand.

Because I ONLY removed the tire to fix the tube, I really think its a connector issue. NOW, on another note, when I try to Reset the controller, I'm unable to do so.... I can got thru the menu's, but I am unable to "arrow" Up or Down...? possibly that will help with the troubleshooting...?

Any help guys would be GREATLY appreciated... I hope to hear back on some troubleshooting ideas..

Thanks again and Please BE SAFE..!!

Rick
 
Theodore Voltaire said:
I don't think you'd want Fox 40s on a bike such as you describe. Most of what they offer would be wasted on a bike like that. Look for something like these. https://enduroebikes.com/product/rockshox-boxxer-suspension-forks/
Click to expand...
I thought putting a powerful hub motor in front, required strong **steel** forks to resist the torsion stress?

 
john61ct said:
Theodore Voltaire said:
I don't think you'd want Fox 40s on a bike such as you describe. Most of what they offer would be wasted on a bike like that. Look for something like these. https://enduroebikes.com/product/rockshox-boxxer-suspension-forks/
Click to expand...
I thought putting a powerful hub motor in front, required strong **steel** forks to resist the torsion stress?
Click to expand...

Front wheel motors don't put that much stress on forks because the wheel will spin long before the forks would have a problem. The brakes put more forces on the forks than a motor does.
 
It has been ages since I have checked in here. I have just worn out a VeeRubber rear tyre I got from Stealth and looking for something better. Any reccomendations for 19 moto rim(dirt) would be much appreciated as I'm going to order a new tyre this week.

My old Bomber (#178 2012), is still on the original battery, losing range but still has plenty for the typical short riding on our farm(hilly but generally under 15k's). I blew a fet on the original controller and replaced it then blew it again, so I bought a new controller from Stealth which was expensive but I'm so happy with it! I used to hit 4400 watt peaks now I'm getting 6200 watt peaks. 8) It pulls up the hills much better than my original controller.

I'll start searching through the recent posts too. So cool to see familiar names still posting! :D
 
Hey guys... just want to bump this up to the top... I'm hoping that someone can give me some direction on what to look at...? Or possibly a schematic.

Any help or assistance would be great...

Thank you again...
 
StudRock said:
1 - Silver Connector - The connector has a key-way and has 4 or 5 PIN's
Click to expand...

Odd that there isn't a way to count them. How are you estimating?


BLUE Wire, YELLOW Wire, GREEN Wire, assuming use of caps mean big wires, are the phase wires. If what you are describing is bullet connectors, I'd just squeeze the female side a little with some pliers to create more friction. Even if it were a little loose, it would still work a little, unless by loose you mean the crimp to the wire.

Silver Connector - The hall sensor wires are thinner, so easier to damage, so that's where I'd look more closely
very small Black Connector - likely a temp sensor

I'm just curious about your other note. Were you trying to reset your controller before or after this issue? If after, why would you do that in the middle of trouble shooting this issue? Are there other things going on?
 
Nice pics! Is the foam in front of your seat for a kiddy seat?

I went with a Shinko SR241. :wink:
 
Hey guys... thank you for your input... I'll be happy to move it into the Stealth Owners thread... that was my oversight...

@ E-HP... Thank you for your feedback. In an effort to kill this thread, I'm going to reply back to your questions via IM and repost in the Owners thread..

Thanks again..!
 
Hi Guys...

I inadvertently created a new thread for this issues and it was suggested to put my post in here for further assistance...

Its been a while since I've been on, I hope everyone is being safe and sound in this crazy year...!!

I still have the 2016 Bomber and everything has been going great up until about a week ago. I got a flat tire in the back, removed the wheel replace the tube and tire while I had the wheel off, put everything back together and now the motor wont turn. All the wires look good, I removed the wheel again, inspected the wires going into the hub and all looked good. Inspected and cleaned all of the connectors and tried again... same thing. The ONLY common denominator is the connectors, so I focused my attention on those. Here is where the issue is... I dont clearly understand what each connector controls and I'm unable to find any detailed information on the forum... so where is where I need your help.

I have the following: (see picture below)
1 - BLUE Wire - Socket Connector (XT150 Connector)
1 - YELLOW Wire - Socket Connector (XT150 Connector)
1 - GREEN Wire - Socket Connector - This wire connection feels a little loose to me. The socket on the Controller side, not the wheel side (XT150 Connector)

1 - Silver Connector - The connector has a key-way and has 5 PIN's
1 - very small Black Connector - The connector is square

Again, I'm not sure what controls what and where I should check for voltage and what voltage. I did read on one thread that people were having problems with the Blue/Yellow/Green XT150 connectors and possibly wires and replacing them. While I'm happy to do so if thats the case, I just want to make sure I understand.

Because I ONLY removed the tire to fix the tube, I really think its a connector issue. NOW, on another note, when I try to Reset the controller, I'm unable to do so.... I can got thru the menu's, but I am unable to "arrow" Up or Down...? possibly that will help with the troubleshooting...? I also disconnected the battery for a few days as well.

Stealth%20Issue.jpg


Any help guys would be GREATLY appreciated... I've been down and out for about 2 weeks with no clue where to start from here.

Thanks again and Please BE SAFE..!!

Rick..
 
StudRock said:
Hi Guys...

I inadvertently created a new thread for this issues and it was suggested to put my post in here for further assistance...

Its been a while since I've been on, I hope everyone is being safe and sound in this crazy year...!!

I still have the 2016 Bomber and everything has been going great up until about a week ago. I got a flat tire in the back, removed the wheel replace the tube and tire while I had the wheel off, put everything back together and now the motor wont turn. All the wires look good, I removed the wheel again, inspected the wires going into the hub and all looked good. Inspected and cleaned all of the connectors and tried again... same thing. The ONLY common denominator is the connectors, so I focused my attention on those. Here is where the issue is... I dont clearly understand what each connector controls and I'm unable to find any detailed information on the forum... so where is where I need your help.

I have the following: (see picture below)
1 - BLUE Wire - Socket Connector (XT150 Connector)
1 - YELLOW Wire - Socket Connector (XT150 Connector)
1 - GREEN Wire - Socket Connector - This wire connection feels a little loose to me. The socket on the Controller side, not the wheel side (XT150 Connector)

1 - Silver Connector - The connector has a key-way and has 5 PIN's
1 - very small Black Connector - The connector is square

Again, I'm not sure what controls what and where I should check for voltage and what voltage. I did read on one thread that people were having problems with the Blue/Yellow/Green XT150 connectors and possibly wires and replacing them. While I'm happy to do so if thats the case, I just want to make sure I understand.

Because I ONLY removed the tire to fix the tube, I really think its a connector issue. NOW, on another note, when I try to Reset the controller, I'm unable to do so.... I can got thru the menu's, but I am unable to "arrow" Up or Down...? possibly that will help with the troubleshooting...? I also disconnected the battery for a few days as well.

Stealth%20Issue.jpg


Any help guys would be GREATLY appreciated... I've been down and out for about 2 weeks with no clue where to start from here.

Thanks again and Please BE SAFE..!!

Rick..
Click to expand...

The blue, yellow, and green wires are the phase wires. They go to the motor windings. The silver connector with 5 terminals hook to the hall sensor. The black plastic connector I believe is for the temperature sensor.
 
Studrock, I'd triple check the three main wires and their connections. I had a similar issue on my last flat where the motor wouldn't go after I put the back wheel on. When I checked the wires I found I had yellow tape(from a preivious repair) on a green wire and had plugged them in wrong. Look under that electrical tape to be sure.

Also pull on the wires a little to make sure they are tight inside those Xt Connectors. I have had one work loose. It must have worked itself partially loose when riding then arked, heated and melted the plastic(probably why the yellow tape was on the green wire). It looked OK but when I pulled the wire it just fell out of the XT connector. I have an old bomber and the heat sensor wire isn't even plugged in so I don't think it will be that.

Best luck with it.
 
Hi Ezza... thanks for getting back to me.

I took your advice and checked under the colored tape and the tape and wire colors match up. I checked the connections again to make sure the connectors were secure, and they were. The wires also felt secure in the connectors as well, however, who knows if they are corroded underneath.

I'm not sure if this will help in the troubleshooting process or not... but the one concerning thing is the display. while I'm able to scroll through the menus and use the OK Button, just the UP arrow is working. The DOWN arrow is not.. I remove and reseated the connector to the display and retried, but its still not working... This may not being an issue, but I just thought I'd mention it..

Does anyone have any information on Voltage checks I can look at on the various wires..? Honestly, I'm at a loss at this point...any thoughts would be great... Thanks guys..!
 
So I have a few recommendations. Looks like you are running the OG wiring.

I coat all of my connectors w dialectic grease. grab it at your local auto parts store.

-the wires that are going into the silver connector (I swapped my connector out so I could add my temp sensor to it), they can break really easily and the break may not be seen. With all of the wires including phase I would do a continuity test. You may have a hidden break or bad solder at the connector. When you do this make sure to move the wires a little bit as it may reveal the break.

-How the wires go into the motor can pinch and rub may want to check there.

This is more a preventative for the future kinda thing...
-The sheathing on those phase wires is pretty crappy and stiff and falls apart due to heat. Mine were like dust, first a clear coating came off then the coloring. I wound up replacing with thicker gauge silicone wires, much nice and more flexible.

-all of the wiring goes into a large heat shrink that can chip and get water in it over time. I wound up re-doing this as well and putting an plastic wire loom around it for protection.

-good luck!! I would bet its one of the hall sensor wires but you never can tell..

Ezza yea thats my high tech kiddie seat for my 7 year old...crazy the difference in performance with him on it!!!
 
27438167054_3c88e1bea4_z.jpg


you can see the large black connector replaces the silver and the temp, that was a pain in the ass to solder.. everything was so tiny and exact...

27949485302_bd96d2841f_z.jpg


My phase wire falling apart...

27756710321_c913e57d8f_z.jpg


anderson connector falling apart..

27756710081_f4b1c8c971_z.jpg


overall re wire. I designed to to be taken apart at different places, more moduar, easier to work on.

if you look at the CAV3 manual it should indicate what all of the wires going into it do and where they are.
 
The Toecutter said:
TimL said:
5: In the photo, you will notice a velomobile shell - we rotomould "Rotovelo" here - i'll be replacing my one with a new one soon and be getting electric assist - anyone want to suggest a hub motor system? Don't need high power due to the aero as you can easily get yourself into trouble... Probably 500w is plenty, but i still want strong regen.
Click to expand...

Regarding the hub motor system, what are your goals? Are you looking for something that is direct drive or something geared with a clutch? How important is weight for your application? How important is efficiency for your application? What about cost? Do you need something that could go to a higher wattage value in the future?
Click to expand...

Thanks for that! Good questions. I thought direct drive like the stealth. I don't need high power - its really to push me up the hills so i don't end up bathing in sweat and 30km/hr or so uphill would be ok. Weight is not critical as the motor fixes that problem and when cruising at a constant speed it shouldn't matter. Efficiency not critical either. Only 22km commute to work, so providing it can get me there and back with plenty of reserve then no worries. Higher power in the future unlikely as i can't see super smooth roads/paths being an option and although fun, its not safe enough. Cost - IDK - must be suitable kits available?
 
KarlJ said:
I actually have my 5403 at Stealth in Dandenong waiting for the right spokes to relace it into a 19" moto rim.

The solution for flats is the motorcycle tube - have not had any flats since and i'm almost down to the canvas on the crazy bob thats on it now.

I did have the question if anyone had tried these https://www.pushys.com.au/maxxis-holy-roller-24x2-40-bmx-tyre.html
as i just grabbed a hookworm from stealth but they are pretty dear!

Replacing the chain with a belt is simply out of the question as not enough width and not much if anything other than suntour bits bolt to the Vbox. At 6000kms i'm recommending removing the front sproket and re-installing it 90 deg as it really only wears in the power stroke of your legs hence 1/2 of it ends up flogged to bits and the other half still looks good.
I changes mine today with a new chain and i'm substantially poorer as a result!
I'm happy to pay it though! Now restrictions have lifted i'm up north in Diamond creek but happy to ride about anywhere!

K
Click to expand...
Thanks Karl - just got a 19" MC rim laced on at Stealth. It fits my existing fenders without too many adjustments also which is good. I'm running a holy roller on the front with no flats yet, but not that many km on it either.
No riding for me atm as i dropped the mtn bike at a start of a ride (Still in the carpark) and my lower foot didnt unclip and i've got a minor fracture plus sprained the crap out of half the ligaments in my ankle.....
 
1abv said:
27438167054_3c88e1bea4_z.jpg


you can see the large black connector replaces the silver and the temp, that was a pain in the ass to solder.. everything was so tiny and exact...

overall re wire. I designed to to be taken apart at different places, more moduar, easier to work on.

if you look at the CAV3 manual it should indicate what all of the wires going into it do and where they are.
Click to expand...

Thanks 1abv... I'm going to take your advice and take the wheel back off and do another inspection and continuity test on the wires.

To answer your question, yes, that is the OG wiring, so I will probably take your advice there as well and replace the wiring & connectors. The condition of my wires look very similar to yours in the picture. What gauge wire did you go with if I might ask. And for that matter, do you happen to know what type of connector the "silver connector" is...? If I have it all apart, I might as well just take my time and replace it all...

Thoughts..? Thanks again...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

L
enduroebikes.com 2 versions?
Replies
1
Views
90
amberwolf
amberwolf
D
Build a bike to commute not sure what I need.
Replies
13
Views
484
E-HP
E-HP
T
E-bikes are arguably worse than electric cars
2 3 4 5
Replies
111
Views
12,295
calab
C
B
    • Like
Arduino Virtual Flywheel Throttle controller
Replies
10
Views
472
DingusMcGee
D
H
Building not an eBike.
Replies
17
Views
653
heavylift
H
Back
Top