New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

JaiCee said:
I'm having a problem with my motor, I can often rotate the pedal a quarter of a turn before it feels any resistance also if I push down hard it feels like something inside the motor is turning or slipping without the gear moving. Is this the sprag clutch failing?
Click to expand...

It sure was for me. It got worse the more I pedaled against the lack of resistance (I tried to limp home, but the sprag clutch wasn't having it)
 
LeftCoastNurd said:
I didn't bother with the shift sensor, I just back off on the pedals when shifting, same as I always do.
Click to expand...

What firmware? I loose way to much power for way too long doing this.
 
mctubster said:
LeftCoastNurd said:
I didn't bother with the shift sensor, I just back off on the pedals when shifting, same as I always do.
Click to expand...

What firmware? I loose way to much power for way too long doing this.
Click to expand...

was 1.0.0, now 1.1.0. I didn't play with the ramp-up speeds, thats all default.

I also tend to shift BEFORE I need the gear, with many years of road biking behind me, its a habit, and I try and keep my cadence around 75 RPM. I've got an Alivio 8 speed derailleur, with a HG50 cassette and trigger shifters, it shifts crisply and quickly. I dumped the front shifter when I went to the TSDZ2, and am running the stock 42T front, and an 11-32T rear. oh and a decent quality chain, I've found the cheapest chains don't shift that smoothly. all this on 700c wheels with 40mm tires.
 
mctubster said:
Very cool. What gear shift detector are you using?
Click to expand...

Just the one that came with my eco-cycles kit.
It’s marked “Model: ENA-GS-EX” and “Designed by BTN-EBIKE”. It originally seemed to trigger the brake circuit for close to a second, making eg. downshifting up a hill very problematic. Now I can pretty much just pedal through a change without feeling much power loss.

I guess different sensors might have different dwell times so might not be as beneficial depending on the sensor and gear system. Adding the microcontroller though means can just use the leading edge of the sensor signal as a trigger to set a specific off time, rather than letting the sensor signal set the dwell of the off as well.
 
When I set my assist level to maximum and turn off the bike, the next time I turn it on again, it will be on ECO. Is there a way to always have it on maximum assist?
 
scianiac said:
Figured you guys might find this useful.

Building on najbyk's work I made some aluminum heatsink shims that replace the thermal pads between the motor endplate and gearbox housing. I actually made a crude test version a few months back and it performed well, I was never able to get the temperature above 42C (48V motor 52V battery, max current limits). Since installing the final version I've only had one warm test day which while I wasn't watching the temps super close it seemed to peak out in the low 30s after some steep climbs. I made a few of these and threw them up for free here, so if anyone wants one just cover the shipping and it's yours. If people are interested I might make some more.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this. I have ordered one via your site. I'll let you know how I get on with it, although it's getting cold here in the UK at the moment.
 
scianiac said:
Figured you guys might find this useful.



Building on najbyk's work I made some aluminum heatsink shims that replace the thermal pads between the motor endplate and gearbox housing. I actually made a crude test version a few months back and it performed well, I was never able to get the temperature above 42C (48V motor 52V battery, max current limits). Since installing the final version I've only had one warm test day which while I wasn't watching the temps super close it seemed to peak out in the low 30s after some steep climbs. I made a few of these and threw them up for free here, so if anyone wants one just cover the shipping and it's yours. If people are interested I might make some more.

Click to expand...

Looks fantastic, great job!
Do you have a CAD file or precise geometry measurements available?
I'm based in the UK otherwise would definitely just buy one.
 
scianiac said:
Building on najbyk's work I made some aluminum heatsink shims
Click to expand...

Diamond is better for that.
 
vulcanears said:
When I set my assist level to maximum and turn off the bike, the next time I turn it on again, it will be on ECO. Is there a way to always have it on maximum assist?
Click to expand...
I assume you refer to original firmware and displays where it is like so as you have described.
However there is one way to do so: if firmware (original factory default) does not receive instructions from display then it uses maximum assist by default. And as well it uses 26" wheel and max. speed as 25Km/h by default. When these parameters are good for you then if you switch off "serial RX" to motor it will work with them.
I've also managed to change these default parameters with some patching on the firmware: https://github.com/wptm/tsdz2_maxspeed_wheelsize_assistlevel .
 
Hi

I have just purchased the 860c display for my TSDZ2. I have built the ST link and can see the controller firmware with it, so all good there.

The one question I have is do I flash the 860c with the same ST Link and configuration or do I need to make a different one? The wiki is a bit sketch about this.

My unit is 6 pin.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Alfie said:
Hi

I have just purchased the 860c display for my TSDZ2. I have built the ST link and can see the controller firmware with it, so all good there.

The one question I have is do I flash the 860c with the same ST Link and configuration or do I need to make a different one? The wiki is a bit sketch about this.

My unit is 6 pin.

Any help would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

you definitely need a different USB adapter for the 860C, you disconnect the 860C from the TSDZ2, and plug it into this adapter. I have the premade one that eco-ebikes.com sells, but I believe I saw instructions on making your own? let me look, and I'll edit this post.
 
Alfie said:
The one question I have is do I flash the 860c with the same ST Link and configuration or do I need to make a different one? The wiki is a bit sketch about this.
Click to expand...
You can buy a bootloader at eco-ebike.com, which I recommend if you aren't handy

OR

Here's the wiki on building your own bootloader:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader

If your plug is 6 pin instead of the 5 pin connector shown, then I'm lost too; I haven't seen that configuration yet myself.
 
bergerandfries said:
Here's the wiki on building your own bootloader:
https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-firmware/TSDZ2_wiki/wiki/Flash-the-firmware-on-860C-850C-using-bootloader

If your plug is 6 pin instead of the 5 pin connector shown, then I'm lost too; I haven't seen that configuration yet myself.
Click to expand...

heh, beat me to it, I got side tracked, and just got back to looking up that same link...

here's the 850c/860c bootloader box from eco-ebike...
https://www.eco-ebike.com/collections/tsdz2-accessories-parts/products/850c-bootloader-box-plug-and-play-tsdz2-open-source-firmware-updater
 
Hi Fellas

My motor makes an unpleasant noise in the first 2 power settings in lower gears!!!!!!

I have a a new TSDZ2 48v 500w motor in stock form at the moment with VLCD6 display. When I start a ride in a low gear ( half way up my 10 speed cassette ) the motor sounds dreadful until I up the power and put more pressure on the pedals. It sounds like something is intermittently rubbing and making a right old racket. I first thought it was something rubbing or catching on the bike but when I pedal without the motor on the noise doesn't happen. When I put it in a higher power mode and use a reasonable amount of pressure on the pedal the motor sounds fine, just the normal constant electric motor sound.

I must say the first 2 power settings don't seem to produce much in the way of assistance if anything noticeable.

I have the magnet set 8mm away from the speed sensor and turn on the unit and don't touch the pedals until it is booted up.

I have a 860c display on it's way so I can install the modded firmware but don't really want to install it with this problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Check the clearance between the motor and the frame on the chainside, if your frame is sufficiently wide on the rear bottom stays, the motor sometimes needs a small shim in there ( supplied with the kit ). Easy to tell if you can't see it, the motor makes a hard thud has it meets the BB as you drop it into the BB when fitting, if the outer case touches its more a dull thud. :D
 
Waynemarlow said:
Check the clearance between the motor and the frame on the chainside, if your frame is sufficiently wide on the rear bottom stays, the motor sometimes needs a small shim in there ( supplied with the kit ). Easy to tell if you can't see it, the motor makes a hard thud has it meets the BB as you drop it into the BB when fitting, if the outer case touches its more a dull thud. :D
Click to expand...

Hi Wayne, It looks like I am bugging you on here now :wink:

I have 1 shim on the BB and the casing is clearing the the rear stay ok.

It's strange I'm getting this noise when there isn't much torque being put through the unit. The weather is miserable at the moment otherwise I'd take it for a spin and record it.
 
Alfie said:
Hi Fellas

My motor makes an unpleasant noise in the first 2 power settings in lower gears!!!!!!
Click to expand...

New motors are kinda noisy until they have some miles on them IMHO. Usually it's a whine that is fairly loud until the gears get some wear on them.
 
Alfie said:
Waynemarlow said:
Check the clearance between the motor and the frame on the chainside, if your frame is sufficiently wide on the rear bottom stays, the motor sometimes needs a small shim in there ( supplied with the kit ). Easy to tell if you can't see it, the motor makes a hard thud has it meets the BB as you drop it into the BB when fitting, if the outer case touches its more a dull thud. :D
Click to expand...

Hi Wayne, It looks like I am bugging you on here now :wink:

I have 1 shim on the BB and the casing is clearing the the rear stay ok.

It's strange I'm getting this noise when there isn't much torque being put through the unit. The weather is miserable at the moment otherwise I'd take it for a spin and record it.
Click to expand...

Mine is the opposite. It starts to groan under moderate/high torque/load.
 
sysrq said:
Mine is the opposite. It starts to groan under moderate/high torque.
Click to expand...
I wonder if it would be possible to add a very thin like paint of maybe glass fiber to the main wheel, so the teeth would not rote metal against metal and would reduce the noise under load.
 
casainho said:
sysrq said:
Mine is the opposite. It starts to groan under moderate/high torque.
Click to expand...
I wonder if it would be possible to add a very thin like paint of maybe glass fiber to the main wheel, so the teeth would not rote metal against metal and would reduce the noise under load.
Click to expand...

Well, sometimes the noise is louder sometimes there is normal whirring and whining under load. More at lower temperatures. It is probably just a combination of specific RPM and resonance.
 
sysrq said:
casainho said:
sysrq said:
Mine is the opposite. It starts to groan under moderate/high torque.
Click to expand...
I wonder if it would be possible to add a very thin like paint of maybe glass fiber to the main wheel, so the teeth would not rote metal against metal and would reduce the noise under load.
Click to expand...

Well, sometimes the noise is louder sometimes there is normal whirring and whining under load. More at lower temperatures. It is probably just a combination of specific RPM and resonance.
Click to expand...

I'll give it a bit more time and see if it beds in. Only done 45 miles on it at the moment. It's rained here all week so not much riding getting done :(
 
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