how to program a sevcon gen4

Try running another trace see where your dots end up.


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Also turn reboot controller after every adjustment


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I have picked up a Gev4 Size2 and old IXXAT and DVT. What else is the minimum I need to program the controller? As in do I have to have a motor, battery, throttle, etc. all wired up? Or can I get away with less? I'm wanting to make sure that the DVT and IXXAT actually work before I fork over the money on the other items.

Thanks
 
@rider119 you'll need a power supply or battery to power it with at least the minimum operating voltage, and basic wiring harness to connect your serial cable canbus and B+/B- leads pins to a couple of the harness pins to simulate key voltage. I've never tried to hook up one with ONLY those connections, but I'm pretty sure that should get it connected to the computer anyway just to show it turns on.

If that's all you've got, I'm assuming you're not quite there with the wiring either, The wiring harness and pins are available as standard serial db9 and 35 pin ampseal header parts from mouser/digikey, and I recommend using small gauge crimpers, not needle nose pliers. The "PA-09 Engineer" micro crimping tool worked well from Amazon for doing one at a time.

Good luck!
Darsey

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I have a Kobalt 80v battery I was hoping to be able to use just for programming. I have the 35 pin ampseal and DB9 connectors all wired up as well as the Molex minifit for the Size2 programming port. Not sure if the size2 will program through either connection or just the minifit port? The USB light on my IXXAT is lighting up green, but red is the only thing I can get out of the CAN end of the IXXAT. It lights up red when I click the Helper button in DVT and gives me an error message that the controller is not turned on. When I connect the battery to the controller there is no green light coming on from the LED. Am I missing something other than just connecting power? I guess I need to wire in the key switch?

If using a variable power supply, what amperage would you set it to? Just curious as I don't have one, would like to pick one up though.
 
Just missed the logic switch, I'm rock'n & roll'n now! Thanks for the help, I'll likely be back for more.
 
rider119 said:
I have picked up a Gev4 Size2 and old IXXAT and DVT. What else is the minimum I need to program the controller? As in do I have to have a motor, battery, throttle, etc. all wired up? Or can I get away with less? I'm wanting to make sure that the DVT and IXXAT actually work before I fork over the money on the other items.

Thanks

hi, you must connect motor, sensor, battery, throttle, and some switches to get the controller run.
 
@ingo that still looks like interference noise. Especially given the earlier comment that it looks like the offset is changing when current is applied. I could show you countless traces that looked like that when I learned the hard way.

Remind us how it's hooked up? Do you have a picture with the phase leads, encoder cable, and other battery connections? I mention all other battery connections because the encoder is grounded to traction pack b-. All of your wires like seat switch and forward select switch are typically selected by connecting the pin to b-. That b- wire is a long antenna. Add them all up, and if you even touch the throttle, just barely, the encoder is full of noise like that. So absolutely everything has to be shielded.

Similarly, the frame will carry that noise if you shielded your phase leads and grounded the shields to actual frame. Think of any shorts to frame too then.

Darsey.

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@darseygodwin

hi,
thanks for the report.

yes i can make some pictures. with the first original me1304 motor i dont have this noise.
i try the shield the encorder cable but doesent make any difference. then I moved the encoder cable differently (away from the phases). does not make a difference.
also i connect and disconnect the encoder shield (green) to frame. makes no difference
seatswitch i dont have (motorcycle)

all my phase cables und battery cables are shielded. the shield is connect to frame.
i can not connect B- to frame because B- is 12V - (sec. battery for light etc.)
 
Hi @ingo, I'm with you so far. Do you have any logic cables? Typically, on a motorcycle you'll have a red "run" switch for your right thumb to meet automotive standards and pass a technical inspection. Lol to "cut off the fuel supply" in Canadian standards. I set that to the forward switch, connecting the pin to b- to permit the throttle. This needs to be shielded full loop. Then the Sevcon has pins within the 35-way ampseal for b- on the throttle, b- in general (generally a short lead to the b- terminal) and then your b- to a dc-dc converter to power/charge your 12v system. Those b- connections too, all need shielding, and any others like it connecting to traction pack leads.

If you didn't have this on a different motor but do now, is the encoder now a sin-cos encoder when previously it was different?

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@darseygodwin

hi,

i have only a killswitch (cut batttery in a half) my technikal inspector says this is ok.
then i have a drive select switch and when you operate the brake then the throttle signal goes to 0V.

the throttlesignal comes from my cycle analyst so there is no B- to throttle, only to CA

the motor before was also a rewind ME1304 but now i have put in more copper and stronger magnets. it also works with sin cos sensor

the cables are not fully in place because of testing and because of noise so i lose some cables to measure

View attachment 3View attachment 2View attachment 1
 
hi,

i have now measured the sensor while the motor was running and the noise was there.

there is no mutch elektrical noise, so i think the sensor and the wires are not the problem.
when the motor speeds up sometimes the nois disapears.
i will upload a youtube video where you can hear the squeaking noise

i think the problem is the controller / frequenzy or some gain settings at the controller.
does someone here is familiar with Kp and Ki controlls?

settings 1.JPGsettings 2.JPGDSCF2577.jpgDSCF2578.jpg
 
here the videos :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVXwtAJ1Jks&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKBS-9wWhZU&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fZvcIV5f5w&feature=youtu.be
 
Hey @ingo sorry I didn't catch your earlier posts. Glad you figured it out.

Just for reference, my setup was looking similar with gains below 1! I was surprised your system actually ran without instantly tripping at 6! So, yea I'd say you should be pretty good by the time you drop the P-I gains down. Btw I found best performance with the integral gains roughly 10-20% of my proportional. Logging traces helps compare noise values, but you might want to fix the load and throttle level as best you can to compare what the changes are actually doing. Either way, you might not need to tune further if you feel like it's solid now. Good luck!
Darsey

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Hey. Anyone willing to share a ME1616 / 1507 (or other ipmsm) dcf for gen4? I found some interesting info in the dict and wondering if there's an id lookup table enabled for these ipm motors. I'm trying to figure out how it's set up:
 

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hi @darseygodwin

thanks for your support and information.

unfortunately my engine didn't last long. I think it was a winding failure in the winding.
i now want to mount a EMRAX 208 LV inside my motorcycle.
anyone has this combination with a gen4 size6?
 
I used this kit and I do not recommend the Emrax LV motor version
 
LV version motors have too low inductance and it is even impossible to control the current
 
Bartosh said:
Hey. Anyone willing to share a ME1616 / 1507 (or other ipmsm) dcf for gen4? I found some interesting info in the dict and wondering if there's an id lookup table enabled for these ipm motors. I'm trying to figure out how it's set up:

I tried the Speed dependent FW and so far it has not made any difference by turning it on.

Working on playing with these settings now.
 
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