DrkAngel
1 GW
M12 split lock washer works as a nice solution for lawyers lip!
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
DAND214
10 MW
Have you tried contacting them to see if they have any rear wheels left? They did have some.
Suicide, Has them post changed? It always talked like a suicide mission for a long time. 30mph on a 20" kids bike, that's too much for me. Oh, with shoe brakes too.
Dan
Suicide, Has them post changed? It always talked like a suicide mission for a long time. 30mph on a 20" kids bike, that's too much for me. Oh, with shoe brakes too.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I just installed the front motor. It never was before.
I don't ride e bikes much at all in the winter especially when there is snow. I ran the Currie once back in July or August I think. Before that maybe 3 or 4 years ago back in NY.
Basically that is one of the main reasons I have a e bike workshop. To upgrade the e bikes I currently own. The only new builds so far were the 1,800W brushless motor and the Giant Roam bur the Giant was motors off of other e bikes.
I was running two brakes on the front of the Currie. Disk as well as V brakes. Now I will attempt to hook the V brake in the back and keep the disk on the front.
Thanks.
LC. out.
markz
100 TW
Why dont you ride ebikes in the winter?
Studded tires are very helpful in the winter, but even just today I rode without and it was fine.
Studded tires are very helpful in the winter, but even just today I rode without and it was fine.
latecurtis
100 MW
Well in the past four years I fell twice on slippery roads and was not the fault of brakes either as I was only going 5 to 10 mph.
Once was slushy snow and the second black ice. Both times I landed on my right shoulder.
Then on July 6 - 2019 I was only going about 5 or 6 mph but there was a drainage hole about 6 or 8 inches deep and maybe 8" in diameter but had tall grass growing all around it. I landed on the right shoulder again and was so damaged I was told I needed major surgery to replace torn ligaments in the rotator cuff.
Sunder
10 MW
Well, it ain't your muscle mass that's lacking. I'd be looking at your diet.
Politics ain't easy when the nation is divided as the US is now, and Australia is heading that way. It used to be we'd have a lot of centrists and middle left/middle right. The left recognised that we don't have endless piles of money to give away, and the right recognised that people with nothing to lose, aren't deterred by threat of punishment - because they have nothing to lose.
Now, we have the left wanting to throw the borders open to all and any who want to come here, and give them welfare and housing, with no checks on their claims of needing it. We have the right who basically say we should be putting time limits on welfare. A year without work, 2 years for some of the more "generous", and then you're on your own. And that's just economic left and right.
The US could be in trouble in the next few years. It's in 27 Trillion dollars of debt. Now you have about 155 million people working. On a median wage of $36,000 a year, that's all of your work force working for 5 years taxed at 100% so that nobody takes a cent home, not even to eat, to unwind that debt. But it's not just a financial problem. Through a long route, it's going to be a social problem. When you're in that much debt, you can't raise interest rates without killing the budget from repayments. That's going to distort money markets. Most notably, it means that savers get nothing, and people will have to search for other ways to get returns on their money. It'll push domestic share prices up. It'll send money off shore.
When debt is that high, you also either need to tax more, or spend less. It will limit how active the US can defend its interests overseas. A decade or two ago, I reckon a man like Trump would have been putting boots on the ground in China like Bush put boots into Iraq. Now the US are just sailing ships through international waters to save face. China's no Iraq, it's big, it's well populated, has high tech weapons, and the US doesn't have the money to upgrade it's armed forces to match.
Anyway, way off topic. Just saying, armchair anything's easy. No way would I want the top job in the US right now. No respect for Trump, but even a good leader would have struggled in the role the way the US is at the moment. I reckon unless the US can resurrect one of these guys:
... or find someone to live up to their standards - I think the sun is finally setting on the US empire.
Politics ain't easy when the nation is divided as the US is now, and Australia is heading that way. It used to be we'd have a lot of centrists and middle left/middle right. The left recognised that we don't have endless piles of money to give away, and the right recognised that people with nothing to lose, aren't deterred by threat of punishment - because they have nothing to lose.
Now, we have the left wanting to throw the borders open to all and any who want to come here, and give them welfare and housing, with no checks on their claims of needing it. We have the right who basically say we should be putting time limits on welfare. A year without work, 2 years for some of the more "generous", and then you're on your own. And that's just economic left and right.
The US could be in trouble in the next few years. It's in 27 Trillion dollars of debt. Now you have about 155 million people working. On a median wage of $36,000 a year, that's all of your work force working for 5 years taxed at 100% so that nobody takes a cent home, not even to eat, to unwind that debt. But it's not just a financial problem. Through a long route, it's going to be a social problem. When you're in that much debt, you can't raise interest rates without killing the budget from repayments. That's going to distort money markets. Most notably, it means that savers get nothing, and people will have to search for other ways to get returns on their money. It'll push domestic share prices up. It'll send money off shore.
When debt is that high, you also either need to tax more, or spend less. It will limit how active the US can defend its interests overseas. A decade or two ago, I reckon a man like Trump would have been putting boots on the ground in China like Bush put boots into Iraq. Now the US are just sailing ships through international waters to save face. China's no Iraq, it's big, it's well populated, has high tech weapons, and the US doesn't have the money to upgrade it's armed forces to match.
Anyway, way off topic. Just saying, armchair anything's easy. No way would I want the top job in the US right now. No respect for Trump, but even a good leader would have struggled in the role the way the US is at the moment. I reckon unless the US can resurrect one of these guys:
... or find someone to live up to their standards - I think the sun is finally setting on the US empire.
Next time the lawyers lips give you trouble just grind them down level with the rest of the dropout clamping surface. Much easier, and it probably would have given you several more mm for the TA, washers, and nuts to fit better.
PS The president couldn't and can't "FIRE MCONNELL" but McConnell could have fired the president when he had the chance (impeachment).
PS The president couldn't and can't "FIRE MCONNELL" but McConnell could have fired the president when he had the chance (impeachment).
latecurtis
100 MW
I don't agree. I think by doing it the way I did it is much stronger.
I think the strength would be about 30% of 100% grinding down the lawyers lip. Now it is like 130% of 100% adding the washer and filling it in with JB weld.
Thank you guys for posting. Sometimes I get really off topic but when you guys post it puts me back on track. That is why I consider all you guys my friends.
Tomorrow I will be picking up the Hub motor at the bike shop. I called today and has a brand new rim and spokes. It is basically brand new condition like it was when SUNDER sent it to me. I soldered brand new wires and tested it before the bike shop re laced it to a new rim.
Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I picked up the hub motor at the bike shop today. It is down in the van with a 12 pack of beer. The #25 chain is at the post office but they won't be open until Monday.
I have a 36V - 800W controller but am using it for the Currie 750W - 36V gear reduction motor. I ordered a 1,000W - 36V controller for the 36V - 1,000W motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. That will take forever to get here. I wish I had ordered it off of Amazon from a US vendor.
It don't matter though. I have 18650 batteries to work on as well as the Currie. It needs some attention.
I took one of the Bafang motors to the bike shop and they said the wheel is really bent and will have to un loosen all the spokes to deal with it. I told them to wait as I have the other Bafang motor which might be easier to true for the front of the Currie.
I figure if they have to loosen all the spokes they may as well lace it on the 700c wheel that came with the Giant Cypress hybrid, (Easy Street). I probably wont put a motor on the back as it is the easiest bike I own to pedal. Not sure though.
Still no stimulus money. If I do not get it by Monday I will call ny old bank back in NY. That is where the first stimulus money went. I changed my direct deposit to my bank here in Ohio and is where my disability goes but the Stimulus might have went to the old account. The first one did.
The first thing I am doing when I get it is ordering a 1,500W rear direct drive for the 27.5" silver Diamondback that is out in the van.
I really do not want a 26" motor though. I want a 27,5" hub kit for that bike. I know most kits are 26. Since I am planning on over volting the motor I may want to order a 60V controller so would rather not get a kit but just the motor and if I can get a good deal on a motor with no rim that will work also as long as the rims I got are dual wall but not sure. If the price is right I will order a 27.5" dual wall rim.
If anyone knows of a good deal like under $150 for just the motor (no rim) or a 27.5" kit as long as the controller is 66V capable and > 2,250W output for under $250 I will order it. I am looking for quality as I will need 66V to get > 40 mph.
Please let me know. It is 27 degrees and I need to go down and get my beer. Got to take out the garbage anyway,
Thanks.
LC. out.
I have a 36V - 800W controller but am using it for the Currie 750W - 36V gear reduction motor. I ordered a 1,000W - 36V controller for the 36V - 1,000W motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. That will take forever to get here. I wish I had ordered it off of Amazon from a US vendor.
It don't matter though. I have 18650 batteries to work on as well as the Currie. It needs some attention.
I took one of the Bafang motors to the bike shop and they said the wheel is really bent and will have to un loosen all the spokes to deal with it. I told them to wait as I have the other Bafang motor which might be easier to true for the front of the Currie.
I figure if they have to loosen all the spokes they may as well lace it on the 700c wheel that came with the Giant Cypress hybrid, (Easy Street). I probably wont put a motor on the back as it is the easiest bike I own to pedal. Not sure though.
Still no stimulus money. If I do not get it by Monday I will call ny old bank back in NY. That is where the first stimulus money went. I changed my direct deposit to my bank here in Ohio and is where my disability goes but the Stimulus might have went to the old account. The first one did.
The first thing I am doing when I get it is ordering a 1,500W rear direct drive for the 27.5" silver Diamondback that is out in the van.
I really do not want a 26" motor though. I want a 27,5" hub kit for that bike. I know most kits are 26. Since I am planning on over volting the motor I may want to order a 60V controller so would rather not get a kit but just the motor and if I can get a good deal on a motor with no rim that will work also as long as the rims I got are dual wall but not sure. If the price is right I will order a 27.5" dual wall rim.
If anyone knows of a good deal like under $150 for just the motor (no rim) or a 27.5" kit as long as the controller is 66V capable and > 2,250W output for under $250 I will order it. I am looking for quality as I will need 66V to get > 40 mph.
Please let me know. It is 27 degrees and I need to go down and get my beer. Got to take out the garbage anyway,
Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Working on the Currie.
Yea.
The Lawyers lip is gone forever. Cant even tell there was one there.
The Currie is really rusty. My first e bike I bought about a year before joining ES and starting this post.
Thinking about taking it to a car wash after I remove the rear chain drive and pressure washing it to get rid of all that ground in dirt. After that maybe some sort of spray on rust converter. I know they sell stuff that basically turns rust to black primer.
After that I will need a quart of that paint as it is a rust protection paint. I will need to paint the Currie. I would like new stickers if possible and will also need a triangle rack for batteries and controllers.
It is just one of my winter projects. The other is the 26" dual suspension that the 26" hub motor I just got a new rim for. The hub motor needs to go on the back and ordered more torque arms for that. I am also waiting on the 1,000W - 36V brush controller for the front chain drive motor.
I am also waiting on 60amp and 40 amp DC breakers I ordered. 60 amp for the 1,000 and 750W chain drives and 40 amp for the Bafang motors. I already have a 60 amp for the 1,000W hub motor.
I think the only thing I need to order is a second controller for the other Bafang motor. I was thinking about ordering two more but still have not tested the two I got.
I still want a hub motor capable of about 45 mph but will be patient and wait for deals. There are a variety of motors that can do > 40 mph. BMC , MAC and QS. I do not have to order a V3 Cro motor but really would like one. That is for the 27.5" silver Dimond Back.
Then there is the Haro V3. I have 8mm chain , a 10T motor sprocket that came with the 1,800W brushless motor and a 8mm chain breaker. I need a 3 killowatt chain drive motor and 72T wheel sprocket to finish that project.
Then there is Easy Street. The 700c hybrid. I was thinking about a Bafang on the front and possibly a small RC motor for the back with low KV for gearing.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Then there is Easy street.
1/10/21 - 6:40AM
sanding some of the rust. It is very rusty. Probably should get primer but is rust paint so might not need it.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Yea.
The Lawyers lip is gone forever. Cant even tell there was one there.
The Currie is really rusty. My first e bike I bought about a year before joining ES and starting this post.
Thinking about taking it to a car wash after I remove the rear chain drive and pressure washing it to get rid of all that ground in dirt. After that maybe some sort of spray on rust converter. I know they sell stuff that basically turns rust to black primer.
After that I will need a quart of that paint as it is a rust protection paint. I will need to paint the Currie. I would like new stickers if possible and will also need a triangle rack for batteries and controllers.
It is just one of my winter projects. The other is the 26" dual suspension that the 26" hub motor I just got a new rim for. The hub motor needs to go on the back and ordered more torque arms for that. I am also waiting on the 1,000W - 36V brush controller for the front chain drive motor.
I am also waiting on 60amp and 40 amp DC breakers I ordered. 60 amp for the 1,000 and 750W chain drives and 40 amp for the Bafang motors. I already have a 60 amp for the 1,000W hub motor.
I think the only thing I need to order is a second controller for the other Bafang motor. I was thinking about ordering two more but still have not tested the two I got.
I still want a hub motor capable of about 45 mph but will be patient and wait for deals. There are a variety of motors that can do > 40 mph. BMC , MAC and QS. I do not have to order a V3 Cro motor but really would like one. That is for the 27.5" silver Dimond Back.
Then there is the Haro V3. I have 8mm chain , a 10T motor sprocket that came with the 1,800W brushless motor and a 8mm chain breaker. I need a 3 killowatt chain drive motor and 72T wheel sprocket to finish that project.
Then there is Easy Street. The 700c hybrid. I was thinking about a Bafang on the front and possibly a small RC motor for the back with low KV for gearing.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Then there is Easy street.
1/10/21 - 6:40AM
sanding some of the rust. It is very rusty. Probably should get primer but is rust paint so might not need it.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
markz
100 TW
Buy a new chain while your at it. Then buy some winter lube and start a maintenance program. Every time you ride you need to wipe the water off, or buy Anti-Rust chain.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/clarks-anti-rust-5-6-speed-chain/rp-prod71552
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/clarks-anti-rust-7-8-speed-chain/rp-prod56336
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/kmc-z8rb-anti-rust-8-speed-chain/rp-prod120638
My chain is like that now because of the winter snow. I may cheap out and buy 5/6spd chain from chain reaction cycle for 8 spd bike. Save a few bucks! Wider chain, but I think it will work fine. I also damaged my rd and the gears now jump.
As for the rusty frame, might be better to sand it down then use rust inhibitor paint if the rust is bad. At least a half ass attempt would be in order.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/clarks-anti-rust-5-6-speed-chain/rp-prod71552
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/clarks-anti-rust-7-8-speed-chain/rp-prod56336
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ca/en/kmc-z8rb-anti-rust-8-speed-chain/rp-prod120638
My chain is like that now because of the winter snow. I may cheap out and buy 5/6spd chain from chain reaction cycle for 8 spd bike. Save a few bucks! Wider chain, but I think it will work fine. I also damaged my rd and the gears now jump.
As for the rusty frame, might be better to sand it down then use rust inhibitor paint if the rust is bad. At least a half ass attempt would be in order.
markz
100 TW
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/1220/1-bicycle-chains-compatibility/
markz
100 TW
markz said:
Chalo
100 TW
A too-wide chain will catch on the next larger sprocket, making it stutter and skip even when it's correctly adjusted.
Sunder
10 MW
Don't forget most of LC's builds have two chains - The normal crank to rear gear one, and the motor to the wheel drive one.
The motor driven chain could probably be an up-rated chain without rubbing on anything. In fact, good chance he could design it to be a belt drive without needing a split frame to even further reduce maintenance. Just give it a quick wipe down after each ride.
The motor driven chain could probably be an up-rated chain without rubbing on anything. In fact, good chance he could design it to be a belt drive without needing a split frame to even further reduce maintenance. Just give it a quick wipe down after each ride.
latecurtis
100 MW
Right now chains are a really sore subject.
I have waited about 6 weeks I think for that. It is #25H with one master link.
It is not nearly long enough for the motor on the front of the 26" dual suspension. There is no way I will wait another 6 weeks. If I can not get a chain faster I will be uninstalling the motor and using it for a different build.
Also things did not really go as planned with the Currie either. I sanded it down and hit all the rust spots and was going to spray it down at the car wash and then use rust converter but the car wash was closed and Wall- Mart did not have the rust - oleum paint in a quart or pint , only spray and can't do that in my apartment as fumes will kill me and my wife.
I did get a lock tight rust converter and used 1/2 can in the Wall-Mart parking lot. I threw the can out as stopped spraying. Probably because it was only 30 degrees out. I did get the rust spots though. I guess I could just wipe it down with a cloth. I will need to go to a real hardware store to get paint. Fortunately I don't have to go to Home Depot. There is a hardware store closer and can take one of my 20" bikes in the van.
I want to get the Currie finished. I have everything I need for that. Not sure at this point what I will do with the 26" dual suspension but that hub motor you sent 6 years or so ago has a brand new rim and spokes and I soldered all new wires and tested it. I am just waiting on torque arms for it.
I also found my Stimulus money. 1,500 bucks all together in a NY account as had money left from last stimulus check. Cro - motors are on back order I guess. Not sure what to do. I wish I could buy an electric car. :lol:
Thanks.
LC. out.
PS.
Went a couple miles on the 20" Turbo bike with the 20" hub motor on the back. I froze my ass off. Bike ran great but 30 degrees with 74% humidity sucks bad. I feel like a pops cycle. I am not riding an e bike again until it gets warmer outside. I really need an electric car. I wish there were a way to use the FX - 75-5 motor and controller to build a small electric car.
I know I have seen small vehicles that are enclosed and can seat two people. Is there anything under 2,000 pounds or closer to 1,500 pounds than 2,000. I need to build a street legal electric car. Bikes are ok in the summer when it is not raining.
Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
https://www.ebay.com/i/123830257906?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D68bd06984fb447f9a382453e0762010f%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D123830260305%26itm%3D123830257906%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DDefaultOrganic%26brand%3DUnbranded%2FGeneric
Not enough power for the van but would work for a really small car. The FX - 75 - 5 motor is 45 kilowatts. It is belt driven and could possibly hook up to a drive train some how. Not sure.
I just need to know if I can expect to get any help here or do I need to start a new post.
Thanks.
LC. out.
markz
100 TW
Looks like you know the answer to that.
Threw to much at the wall, it goes that way sometimes.
The price for that motor seems quite expensive, but its for a vehicle mount and I havent seen the various prices for others. QS sells, maybe goldenmotor and its best to not buy from .com as the other site is better.
Threw to much at the wall, it goes that way sometimes.
The price for that motor seems quite expensive, but its for a vehicle mount and I havent seen the various prices for others. QS sells, maybe goldenmotor and its best to not buy from .com as the other site is better.
latecurtis said:
latecurtis
100 MW
Yea. I need to find a really small compact vehicle as close to 2,000 pounds as possible. I know back in the 80s Mitsubishi made a Plymouth Arrow.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Arrow
I did not own one but my friend did. He took out the 4 cylinder and put a 318 V8 - 9.5 to 1 compression and about 230 horsepower. He used a gallon milk jug for a gas tank and it went 30 miles on a gallon. At idle it would go about 50 mph and the rear end failed after a couple of weeks. Curb weight was 2.050 pounds I think.
The body style was great. Sporty. It would have been a little silver bullet if he put money in it. Anyway if I could get my hands on one that is not completely rusted out I don't see why the FX - 75 - 5 motor would not work. 45 kilowatts should get it to at least 50 mph. Probably not thruway speeds but could still travel between states on back roads.
Back to e bikes I just talked to the guy at the bike shop and those Bafang motors use 12 gouge spokes so not compatible with my 700c rims. That sucks as I have two brand new condition 700c dual wall front rims. If they order a new rim it will cost me 120 bucks to lace it up with parts and labor. Defiantly a deal breaker.
I wont be ordering any more Bafang motors then. I have one for the front of the Currie and one I am giving away. I am going back to my original plan for the Haro V3. A 3 kilowatt chain drive. I already own 8mm chain and a breaker and master links.
As far as Easy street I am thinking a low budget belt drive with an RC motor. RC motors are way cheaper than hub motors as long as I can do a belt drive without spending too much money. It has perfect pedal gears so am thinking about maybe a front drive but is negotiable. It wont be rode on bike trails or off road or rough roads. I have other mountain bikes for that.
That just leaves the 27.5" silver Dimond Back. That will need a hub motor eventually but if I am building the Haro for 40+ mph there is no rush on the Dimond Back. Basically it boils down to when I can get the best deal. I know 3 kilowatt brushless motors are cheaper than 1,500W and above hub motors.
Also I do not think those rims on the 27.5" Dimond Back are dual wall so will be spending a small fortune getting a motor laced into a wheel. That sucks as I really wanted to build that Dimond Back. My only hope for a hub motor on that is an inexpensive kit capable of 40+ mph.
Since those 3 kilowatt chain drive kits are all over e bay and not going any where any time soon I am waiting awhile and hoping to get a good deal on a rear hub kit that can do 40+ mph with no damage. Please if anyone knows of a good deal on a BMC , MAC or direct drive that can do 40+ mph let me know.
Also any help on where to find a very small light car any year or make that could work with my FX-75-5 motor please let me know because honestly I have way more e bikes than I could possibly ride. I need a road legal EV capable of 100 miles on a charge and legal in all states in the US.
Thanks.
LC. out.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Arrow
I did not own one but my friend did. He took out the 4 cylinder and put a 318 V8 - 9.5 to 1 compression and about 230 horsepower. He used a gallon milk jug for a gas tank and it went 30 miles on a gallon. At idle it would go about 50 mph and the rear end failed after a couple of weeks. Curb weight was 2.050 pounds I think.
The body style was great. Sporty. It would have been a little silver bullet if he put money in it. Anyway if I could get my hands on one that is not completely rusted out I don't see why the FX - 75 - 5 motor would not work. 45 kilowatts should get it to at least 50 mph. Probably not thruway speeds but could still travel between states on back roads.
Back to e bikes I just talked to the guy at the bike shop and those Bafang motors use 12 gouge spokes so not compatible with my 700c rims. That sucks as I have two brand new condition 700c dual wall front rims. If they order a new rim it will cost me 120 bucks to lace it up with parts and labor. Defiantly a deal breaker.
I wont be ordering any more Bafang motors then. I have one for the front of the Currie and one I am giving away. I am going back to my original plan for the Haro V3. A 3 kilowatt chain drive. I already own 8mm chain and a breaker and master links.
As far as Easy street I am thinking a low budget belt drive with an RC motor. RC motors are way cheaper than hub motors as long as I can do a belt drive without spending too much money. It has perfect pedal gears so am thinking about maybe a front drive but is negotiable. It wont be rode on bike trails or off road or rough roads. I have other mountain bikes for that.
That just leaves the 27.5" silver Dimond Back. That will need a hub motor eventually but if I am building the Haro for 40+ mph there is no rush on the Dimond Back. Basically it boils down to when I can get the best deal. I know 3 kilowatt brushless motors are cheaper than 1,500W and above hub motors.
Also I do not think those rims on the 27.5" Dimond Back are dual wall so will be spending a small fortune getting a motor laced into a wheel. That sucks as I really wanted to build that Dimond Back. My only hope for a hub motor on that is an inexpensive kit capable of 40+ mph.
Since those 3 kilowatt chain drive kits are all over e bay and not going any where any time soon I am waiting awhile and hoping to get a good deal on a rear hub kit that can do 40+ mph with no damage. Please if anyone knows of a good deal on a BMC , MAC or direct drive that can do 40+ mph let me know.
Also any help on where to find a very small light car any year or make that could work with my FX-75-5 motor please let me know because honestly I have way more e bikes than I could possibly ride. I need a road legal EV capable of 100 miles on a charge and legal in all states in the US.
Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Unibody construction, quickly rusted apart!latecurtis said:
I'm shopping for a Triumph or MG Midget.
Ideal would be a VW Bug and aftermarket body ala Bradley ...
https://www.google.com/search?q=kit-car+Bradley&client=firefox-b-1-d&hl=en&sxsrf=ALeKk02Qlkt8FhZ015fgjeL7tO1OC88Oaw:1610497114613&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiN-bWj0ZfuAhWET98KHWQsAi4Q_AUoA3oECAYQBQ&biw=1236&bih=577
latecurtis
100 MW
Thank you and good luck. It seems like we are looking for the same thing.
My Currie is very happy with all the recent attention it has been getting. Rust converter was applied about 48 hours ago and two heavy coats of rust-oleum paint and touch ups also. I have covered 100% of the Currie with oil paint and just got finished with the underneath of the seat. I might need a plastic paint for the top.
I still have to paint the gear reduction motor but can do that after I re-install it. Rust-oleum makes a spray and have a little less than half a can of gloss black. I will order new Currie stickers and use fine wet automotive 400 grit sand paper for the frame and do a smooth thin top coat before I put on the stickers. I am just thinking how to do a battery frame rack and still see stickers.
The meter is also in to test the internal resistance of 18650 cells. Cant see it in my screen shot. I am on my way to get all that now. I can mount my 26" hub motor that got fixed on the dual suspension and in about two days the 25H chain I ordered will be in too. Amazon and USA venders rock. No more SLOOOOOW boats from China. lol. Both these dual motor builds will be done sooner than later now. I take my time now days and even buy brand new brake kits so will have both brakes working on BOTH of these builds.
When or IF I find something I will need all the help I can get making my FX-75-5 motor work for it. It will not be a normal EV conversion on any level. It will take some serious engineering if I am to do it on a sane budget.
I already know that I need to get it together and operational as inexpensive as humanly possible as will need at least 1.000 bucks for batteries if not more.
Thanks.
LC. out.
markz
100 TW
OK I read the car talk then you went into ebike talk. Yeah so the spoke flange on the motor is 12 gauge, thats common, you can still use 13g just use washers on the J-bend of the spoke. Then you talk about RC motor and there needs to be a shaking head no emoji. Hopefully ES 2.0 will have that, I will post in Nep's thread.
latecurtis
100 MW
Yea. I got brackets cut that should work. I did not bolt it down yet but the chain lines up and is tight.
Tomorrow hopefully both motors will be installed. I still have to decide where I am mounting the controllers and batteries and ordering new stickers.
I will be lucky to get the Currie done before the chain comes in Friday for the 1,000W motor on the 26" dual suspension. The 26" 1,000W hub motor is ready for the back.
Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
1/14/21 - 7:03 AM.
It has been a rough day. Things did not go according to plan re - installing the gear reduction motor.
It was a nightmare. After about 10 hours the motor is installed. It is nor pretty and a mis match of brackets wood and steel but seems very strong and of course the chain is too tight but I will live with it. I am mostly just using the rear motor for hills.
The rear brake is installed and will need the bike shop to hook up the cable and new lever that came with the kit. I bought two for 20 bucks each. The front disk brake is working.
I really need to put shorter handle bars on it. It will never fit in the van. I defiantly am not hauling it up those stairs. his whole project has been a pain in the ass.
Please let me know what to do about that. Both female connecters from the throttle and controller. I really did not want to cut wires from the controller. Is there an adapter or something I can order or do I have no choice but to cut wires.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
LC. out.
It has been a rough day. Things did not go according to plan re - installing the gear reduction motor.
It was a nightmare. After about 10 hours the motor is installed. It is nor pretty and a mis match of brackets wood and steel but seems very strong and of course the chain is too tight but I will live with it. I am mostly just using the rear motor for hills.
The rear brake is installed and will need the bike shop to hook up the cable and new lever that came with the kit. I bought two for 20 bucks each. The front disk brake is working.
I really need to put shorter handle bars on it. It will never fit in the van. I defiantly am not hauling it up those stairs. his whole project has been a pain in the ass.
Please let me know what to do about that. Both female connecters from the throttle and controller. I really did not want to cut wires from the controller. Is there an adapter or something I can order or do I have no choice but to cut wires.
Please let me know.
Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
tomjasz
1 GW
You'll likely have to make your own adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Brands-2pin3pin4pin5pin6pin-Waterproof-Electric-Throttle/dp/B08CH4R29V/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=higo+connector&qid=1610644068&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Brands-2pin3pin4pin5pin6pin-Waterproof-Electric-Throttle/dp/B08CH4R29V/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=higo+connector&qid=1610644068&sr=8-2
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