Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Hi guys,

I have bought Votol EM-100 controller with QS-2000W mid-drive motor. Today while I was working with my controller I successfully connected my Controller with my PC using PL2303Module. Display window was showing Real time Voltages etc. I also downloaded bin files to Controller couple of times, everything was fine. But suddenly after 2-3 hours I lost communication between PC and Controller, and now whenever I try to connect with my Controller this message appears "Communication Abnormal, no response".

Please help me if you have any idea about the issue. Please note that I have checked the wiring and have also replaced PL2303 module, but the issue is still there.

Thanks
 

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M.Huzaifa said:
Hi guys,

I have bought Votol EM-100 controller with QS-2000W mid-drive motor. Today while I was working with my controller I successfully connected my Controller with my PC using PL2303Module. Display window was showing Real time Voltages etc. I also downloaded bin files to Controller couple of times, everything was fine. But suddenly after 2-3 hours I lost communication between PC and Controller, and now whenever I try to connect with my Controller this message appears "Communication Abnormal, no response".

Please help me if you have any idea about the issue. Please note that I have checked the wiring and have also replaced PL2303 module, but the issue is still there.

Thanks
This happens to me when I have an issue with the motor (like an unloaded runaway) in the Calibration page. You need to power down the controller and remove it from Voltage. Then allow it to discharge for a period of time (at least 10 minutes). What is most likely happening is that the controller is stuck in a loop and will no longer respond to commands from the serial port. A complete power down restores communication every time for me.

Russ
 
today i got the battery (72v) and i connected the controller and the motor for the first time. But it doesn't work ... I connected to the controller B +, B- and the three motor phases, the Hall cables, and a lead from battery positive to "e-lock". I connected an accelerator but nothing works. I then tried to connect via USB the cotroller to the PC and it recognizes me, but as EM-100, but in reality it is an EM-150SP (canbus version). I tried to use the remote control from PC to speed up but it doesn't work. What can I do and what can I check to make the controller and motor work? Also, how can I verify that it is really an EM-150 and not an EM-100? Thanks.

This is a screenshoot

100.PNG
 
M.Huzaifa said:
Hi guys,

I have bought Votol EM-100 controller with QS-2000W mid-drive motor. Today while I was working with my controller I successfully connected my Controller with my PC using PL2303Module. Display window was showing Real time Voltages etc. I also downloaded bin files to Controller couple of times, everything was fine. But suddenly after 2-3 hours I lost communication between PC and Controller, and now whenever I try to connect with my Controller this message appears "Communication Abnormal, no response".

Please help me if you have any idea about the issue. Please note that I have checked the wiring and have also replaced PL2303 module, but the issue is still there.

Thanks

click on "CAN enable", that's how it worked for me
 
Hi,

I successfully connected to my controller yesterday. But I can't right now. I believe I have downloaded some wrong files into the controller. Is there any way to reset EM-100 to its factory setting? Please help if you know any connection or button which can reset it to default settings.

Thanks.
 
smotors said:
GianlucaO said:
...
This is a screenshoot

100.PNG

..look in the window "Display" the state "Fault display", and why in the right additional window You have a check for "reverse" ?

"hall fault", the vendor says it represents the throttle fault. it's correct?

but sometimes it doesn't give error, see the two screenshoot of page "display"

p1.PNG
p2.PNG
p3.PNG
p4.PNG
p5.PNG
p6.PNG



If I change the accelerator "low protection" voltage, the error also changes, "fault code" becomes 280, 200, 80. it depends on the value I set and the engine never works when the accelerator is turned. If I disconnect the throttle, the error remains, and checking the throttle from the PC, the engine still does not work.

this is my wiring connection on controller, and Hall Sensor connector, and B+ and B- from battery
cablaggio.PNG
 
j bjork said:
For me hall fault has always been throttle at least, but I have an older controller. What voltages do you get when you measure between signal and ground?

between signal and ground is from 9,7mV to 9,8mV
between ground and pink (+5V) is 5,97V
 
Then you have a problem. For starters it dosent even reach your low protect value. Did you try no throttle and full throttle?

Are you using a potetiometer throttle like domino or magura? In that case you probably need to add resitors in line with the + and - to get some offset. Otherwise your 0 throttle will be 0V and full throttle 5,5V
 
GianlucaO said:
j bjork said:
For me hall fault has always been throttle at least, but I have an older controller. What voltages do you get when you measure between signal and ground?

between signal and ground is from 9,7mV to 9,8mV
between ground and pink (+5V) is 5,97V

Measure signal to earth (connected) no / full throttle! Set based on these values. Your values ​​look good for a hall throttle grip. It looks like you are in park mode .....PC15
 
Paulflieg said:
GianlucaO said:
j bjork said:
For me hall fault has always been throttle at least, but I have an older controller. What voltages do you get when you measure between signal and ground?

between signal and ground is from 9,7mV to 9,8mV
between ground and pink (+5V) is 5,97V

Measure signal to earth (connected) no / full throttle! Set based on these values. Your values ​​look good for a hall throttle grip. It looks like you are in park mode .....PC15

No gas 0,85v
Full gas 4,51v
Max voltage between 5v and gnd 5,35v

Its correct to put this valute?:
Low protection 0,75v
Start voltage 1,25v
The end 4,3v
High 5,4



My throttle isnt domino, Is a normal throttle for Electric bike. I used It on My old Electric scooter conversion and It works.
How i remove the parking mode pc15?
 
PC15
IO = 0, SW = 0, LA = 0, F = 1, U = 0, D = 0
1: emty_func

then param write!
Then controller off and on again! All good!
 
Paulflieg said:
PC15
IO = 0, SW = 0, LA = 0, F = 1, U = 0, D = 0
1: emty_func

then param write!
Then controller off and on again! All good!

ok, I tried but remains in "P"and it keeps giving me the "undervoltage" error but I have 83.9V measured on the battery and on the controller, but on the PC it is 0v


Paulflieg said:
Measure signal to earth (connected) no / full throttle! Set based on these values. Your values ​​look good for a hall throttle grip. It looks like you are in park mode .....PC15

do you mean that I have to connect the accelerator (I connected before measuring, so ok) or connect the black cable to the negative of the battery like in this scheme?
gnd.PNG
 
GianlucaO said:
Paulflieg said:
PC15
IO = 0, SW = 0, LA = 0, F = 1, U = 0, D = 0
1: emty_func

then param write!
Then controller off and on again! All good!

ok, I tried but remains in "P"and it keeps giving me the "undervoltage" error but I have 83.9V measured on the battery and on the controller, but on the PC it is 0v


Paulflieg said:
Measure signal to earth (connected) no / full throttle! Set based on these values. Your values ​​look good for a hall throttle grip. It looks like you are in park mode .....PC15

do you mean that I have to connect the accelerator (I connected before measuring, so ok) or connect the black cable to the negative of the battery like in this scheme?
gnd.PNG

You have posted pictures here that show that there is a can connection. The battery voltage is displayed!

Is that right now !?

What's your Can Adapter?

did you only have 2 wires connected? (Your picture!)

It's best to show your current screens or read a little more ... almost everything is already written here!
 
I start an other attempt to get some help. But first some background:
I purchased a Hongdu TRD06Z-1631, which comes with a 10" 60V/1kW motor. In fact the stock controller is limited to 30A. I replaced the motor with a 12" 60V/2kW, I got out of a BWS sports bike. This had the effect, that the bike increased speed from 45km/h to 50km/h. To increase the speed more, I changed from 120/70R12 to 120/80R12, which (might not have been the best idea, because it required a lot of mechanical modifications to the bike, but in the end it) got the top speed up to 52km/h (all speeds are taken by GPS!). To enjoy the full power of the motor and to gain even more top speed I spend a small fortune (including the data cable, shipping, customs and you don't want to know $262) and acquired the Votol EM100S. I use gear 1, 2 and S only, having gear 1 and gear 2 limited to 30A to "simulate" the old controller and only in sports mode the the flux is activated and the full 55A the controller is able to provide are available. Unfortunately I was not able to find anything about the flux settings on the net and due to nobody replied to me how to calculate or determine those values I simply used the values shown in the user manual.
The result is horrible: In gear 2 the top speed is now 45km/h and in sports mode it is 50km/h. Despite the lower speed I have a way more high power consumption (30A Votol vs. 16A Stock @50km/h) and the motor is always emitting a high frequency noise (even) when (slow) turning - with the old stock controller it was completely silent! What did I do wrong?

Page1f.gifPage2f.gifPage3f.gifDisplay-f.gif

More things to mention:
1) when switching from 2nd gear to S, the motor increases speed, but when switching back to 2nd and keeping the throttle turned, instead of getting slower, it increases even a bit more. Only if the bike has come to a complete standstill, the power gets limited to the 2nd gear setting again.
2) When driving and keeping throttle at a fixed position, the speed still increases very slowly for the next 20 seconds
3) When using the remote, the RPM is permanently alternating up and down about ±2.5% (about a 10 seconds cycle)

I really do hope that someone is out there, who tell me, what I did wrong, because in the current state, the driving experience is a huge step backwards compared to the 20$ stock controller.
 
rienesl said:
I start an other attempt to get some help. But first some background:
I purchased a Hongdu TRD06Z-1631, which comes with a 10" 60V/1kW motor. In fact the stock controller is limited to 30A. I replaced the motor with a 12" 60V/2kW, I got out of a BWS sports bike. This had the effect, that the bike increased speed from 45km/h to 50km/h. To increase the speed more, I changed from 120/70R12 to 120/80R12, which (might not have been the best idea, because it required a lot of mechanical modifications to the bike, but in the end it) got the top speed up to 52km/h (all speeds are taken by GPS!). To enjoy the full power of the motor and to gain even more top speed I spend a small fortune (including the data cable, shipping, customs and you don't want to know $262) and acquired the Votol EM100S. I use gear 1, 2 and S only, having gear 1 and gear 2 limited to 30A to "simulate" the old controller and only in sports mode the the flux is activated and the full 55A the controller is able to provide are available. Unfortunately I was not able to find anything about the flux settings on the net and due to nobody replied to me how to calculate or determine those values I simply used the values shown in the user manual.
The result is horrible: In gear 2 the top speed is now 45km/h and in sports mode it is 50km/h. Despite the lower speed I have a way more high power consumption (30A Votol vs. 16A Stock @50km/h) and the motor is always emitting a high frequency noise (even) when (slow) turning - with the old stock controller it was completely silent! What did I do wrong?

Page1f.gifPage2f.gifPage3f.gifDisplay-f.gif

More things to mention:
1) when switching from 2nd gear to S, the motor increases speed, but when switching back to 2nd and keeping the throttle turned, instead of getting slower, it increases even a bit more. Only if the bike has come to a complete standstill, the power gets limited to the 2nd gear setting again.
2) When driving and keeping throttle at a fixed position, the speed still increases very slowly for the next 20 seconds
3) When using the remote, the RPM is permanently alternating up and down about ±2.5% (about a 10 seconds cycle)

I really do hope that someone is out there, who tell me, what I did wrong, because in the current state, the driving experience is a huge step backwards compared to the 20$ stock controller.

Unfortunately, the posts here are not numbered ..... not helpful .... but look at page 48, there you will find your solution / s.
It is your settings on Page 2.
leave Cruise out for now.
Read!
 
If it is a brand new controller, it might be that the field weakening settings are something completely different than what the manual and the description says. I had loads if trouble wit a new controller, and got a lot of help from the community. Read back a few pages, I started to post my problems on page 48, maybe there are some hints there that will help?

Edit: like Paulflieg wrote while I was typing 😋
 
Paulflieg said:
You have posted pictures here that show that there is a can connection. The battery voltage is displayed!

Is that right now !?

What's your Can Adapter?

did you only have 2 wires connected? (Your picture!)

It's best to show your current screens or read a little more ... almost everything is already written here!


hi everyone, I solved it by removing the PARK function. Now I have tried the scooter and it is a splinter, too fast. Almost impossible to drive. It will be a lot of fun.

thanks you all
 
Dear HrKlev and Paulflieg,
thank you very much for your support. I have studied the page2 settings of that screenshot very carefully, especially the remarks. Unfortunately the jitter correction mentioned in sports mode (which are recommended to increase or decrease by 50) have absolutely no effect. Neither on the main stand, nor on the road.

On top of the page it is mentioned, that disabling the HDC would disable the gear function and due to it had been disabled in my settings, I enabled it and set it to 2000. Activating this had some interesting side effects:
a) the power consumption went down dramatically and is now down to normal levels
b) speed has increased in Sports gear to 58km/h (normal gear stayed the same at 45km/h)
c) the "gears" are still not working. In the screenshot of Page2 the left values of the gears are marked again with "Change not allowed", but the values my controller had when shipped were different to the shown picture, so I assume this is something motor specific and not directly related to the gears (as the first impression might be).

Back again to page 2: the flux weakening is labeled with: "Change not allowed". My controller was shipped with 64, but on calibration I had to go down to 10 to not to exceed the 200. I thought I have to transfer the determined value here?

Unfortunately I experienced a new problem: when accelerating, at about 2/3 of throttle the motor suddenly "jumps" to a higher speed. You can virtually feel and hear the "klonk" when it suddenly accelerates. The throttle is fine. I switched over to the old controller to check (I made adapter cables for the Votol, so it is just one data cable and 5 screws) and here it behaves fine.

I feel like a stupid moron. Usually I am quite switched on about electronics and programs, but due to the values I need to alter have the power to permanently damage the magnets (and I don't have unlimited financial resources to replace my fails), it's a bit playing with fire - especially if you don't know 100% exactly what you are doing...
 
-> rienesl

"Don't Panic" (after Douglas Adams)
I have the EM150 and a mid-motor 5 pole pairs ... not the same as your configuration.
your posted screens (my information) are probably out of date now !?
- For now, leave everything out, such as HDC, HHC, Cruise, softstart, lowbreak ...... etc!
-check the Hall config, -60 ?? right?
pole pairs 28 ?? right?
-Page2, very important, how is it set NOW?
-Port settings, important, they didn't show them yet
-Three Speed, is a switch attached? in addition the PortSettings?

there is no 100% knowledge here. We try and test and go mad and find solutions .... fun ..

I do not think that the calibration is worth entering in the "Flux Weakening Compensation"! play with it and learn or leave it on the standard until your motor runs smoothly. It was also stated in the manual that it is only relevant for V magnets (QS138).!? nothing that is certain
 
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