350W Jump Bafang front hub motor+wheel+tire+brake $45@BCH

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bancars

1 mW
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Sep 7, 2020
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https://www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/26-bafang-dc36v-sturmey-archer-rx-rd3-electric-bike-wheel-with-tire-brake
https://jag35.com/collections/accessories-1/products/26-bafang-36v-dc-electric-bike-wheel-tire-w-tektro-disk-break (probably a better source, credit to Manbeer for finding this)

Let's share info in this thread. Here's what I've figured out:

* Bafang FM G020.350.D 10 motor, cover plate attached with Torx T20 security bolts.

* Tektro Aries M300H 160mm TKD102 8K 160-1 Q disc brake, attached with 4mm hex bolts.

* Double-wall rims.

* Kenda 50-559 tire, not Schwalbe Marathon (disappointing, because Marathon is twice as thick, with far better thorn resistance).

* Mounting hardware is included, and it fits perfectly in a normal 100mm front fork. Nut has *seven* sides (each side is 8mm long and is bowed in by 1mm), so it can't be tightened with a crescent wrench or a regular hex socket, but vice grips should work. Anyone know what this bolt is called, and if there's a better tool for it than vice grips?

* I think they're from salvaged rent-by-the-hour Jump ebikes. Uber decided to terminate Jump a few months ago, and the specs match:
https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/bf9zmk/jump_ebike_visual_teardown

* HiGo Z910 9-pin connector
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#HiGoZ910
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001758632454.html $9.96 (free shipping) for 130cm extension cable. It fits perfectly into the motor wire. I cut off one end of the cable and am going to solder the individual wires directly to my controller wires (once I figure out *which* wires).


I think this is an awesome deal for a DIY commuter ebike. There's another thread about it ( https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106233 ), but the title ("Deal on motors/wheels") is way too vague to get the attention it deserves.
 
the first couple of times i saw these i thought they didnt come with the hardware to attach, cool that its included even if its some oddball 7 sided nut to keep the wheels from getting stolen when they are parked in the hood. solid deal overall though, wonder what happened to all the controllers and displays
 
bancars said:
* Bafang FM G020.350.D 10 motor,
Click to expand...
Appears to be a version of the SWX02 motor, the 8Fun SWX02 from 2015, and in a 10T configuration, based both on the info found via numbers, but also the PCB marking in this pic by Major of the internals of the motor he received:
file.php


Specs from the BCH page, don't know if they are correct:
Engine Model - FM G020.250/350.D 10

BAFANG DC36V BLDC A2 Specs

Position Front Motor
Construction Gear drive
Rated Voltage (DCV) 36
n0 (Rpm) 325 ; 245
Rated Power (W) 250/350
nT(Rpm) 205
Max Torque 45 N.m
Efficiency (%) ≥ 80
Weight (kg) 3.3
Noise Grade (dB) < 55
Operating Temperature -20-45℃
Mounting Parameters
Brake Disc Brake
Installation Widths (mm / OLD) 100
Max. Housing Diameter (mm) 158
Cabling Route Shaft Side, Right
Cable Length(mm), Connection Type 250 G9.1
Spoke Specification 36H*13G
Further Specifications
Speed Detection Signal (Pulses/Cycle) 6
Reduction Ratio 1:5
Magnet Poles (2P) 20
Click to expand...

Pics of the wheels I got in this post
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106233&start=25#p1568651
along with the various hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, torque washers, brake calipers, etc).

Note that the rims are not rim-brake compatible, so if you can't use disc brakes on the bike you're going to use them on, you'll need to relace the motor into a new rim that is compatible with your bike's brakes.

* Kenda 50-559 tire, not Schwalbe Marathon (disappointing, because Marathon is twice as thick, with far better thorn resistance).
Click to expand...
Some do have the Marathon (one of four wheels I got did, rest had Kenda).

* Mounting hardware is included, and it fits perfectly in a normal 100mm front fork.
Click to expand...
Some people that have ordered these wheels from BCH didn't get either the mounting hardware or the calipers or both, because BCH is horrible at packing and doesn't actually use any packing material; they simply toss the wheels and stuff in box and hope the box arrives not empty. (and they don't respond to post-sale communications, even if you want to buy more stuff, so don't expect any help with missing stuff, etc). You can expect that whatever you order will arrived damaged in some way, or missing parts. Maybe if you only order one wheel...but if you get more than one thing in the box, they'll all be rattling around in there bashing against each other the whole trip, and you will have to live with whatever damage that causes. You'll probably need to re-true the wheel, too, after the bashing it is going to get banging around in the box on the way to you (all of mine need this).

Bolt has *seven* sides (each side is 8mm long and is bowed in by 1mm), so it can't be tightened with a crescent wrench or a regular hex socket, but vice grips should work. Anyone know what this bolt is called, and if there's a better tool for it than vice grips?
Click to expand...
It's a standard security nut. Just replace it with a regular axle nut set (cheaper than the special tool needed for that nut). You can use any nut with the right threading, which is probably 12mm x 1mm thread. (take the existing nut to the hardware store and try it on metric bolts until you find a perfect match, then get the nuts taht would go on that bolt).

If you really want to use the hardware it comes with (assuming the hardware doesn't get off a few stops before the box reaches you due to the complete lack of caring by BCH's so-called "packers"), you can look up Seven Sided Security Socket and get the one that matches the size of your nuts. Prices range from around $15-40 based on a quick google search, not checking any sizes.


* HiGo Z910 9-pin connector
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#HiGoZ910
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001758632454.html $9.96 (free shipping) for 130cm extension cable. It fits perfectly into the motor wire. I cut off one end of the cable and am going to solder the individual wires directly to my controller wires (once I figure out *which* wires).
Click to expand...
Post about the connector:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106233&start=25#p1562410
typical wiring:
file.php




I think this is an awesome deal for a DIY commuter ebike. There's another thread about it ( https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=106233 ), but the title ("Deal on motors/wheels") is way too vague to get the attention it deserves.
Click to expand...


These are an ok deal, as long as you get lucky enough to receive stuff that's not damaged enough to make it unusable (depends on each person's level of DIY skill for repairs, and/or desire to do so or need for plug-and-play system), or missing key parts you have to spend enough money on to have been better off to buy a new motor wheel (or kit) somewhere else. I wish some other company had been the one to salvage these instead, that was actually responsive to their customers even just a little bit. BCH was even less than enthusiastic about selling stuff they'd already advertised for sale when they first offered these, and in emails sounded like it was almost too much work to be bothered. I almost gave up before even being able to buy them.

Even after all that, it was a good enough deal I would have bought four more wheels from them, even knowing they'd arrive damaged, but they couldn't even be bothered to respond to me after multiple attempts, so I did give up after a while, and wouldn't ever buy anything from BCH again (and I don't recommend that anyone else does, either, unless you just really need what they have and cant' get it somewhere else, or just can't pass up a deal, regardless of condition/consequences).
 
Yes, FM G020.350 and SWX02 are the same motor.
Seems like some folks conflated it w/ the BPM in the original threads. but it is a "big" mini motor.
One thing is, the motor speed listings for the BPM don't apply to this motor. Why, don't know, it's just one more "mystery of the East" things.
It would seem "code 10" in this case is just slightly on the high side of the usual 250RPM to 270RPM rated @ 36 Volts that "mid-speed" motors run at. So around 25 to 26 MPH in a 26" whl. on 48 Volts.
Weighing in @ 3.6 Kg.s, controllers in the 20 A to 25 Amp range would be a gd. fit.

It bought one, but I'm out of the States and haven't seen it so I can't report on it's condition.
 
If the seller isn't responding or it's difficult to place an order, Jehu Garcia Also has these on his sale site jag35.com in the deals category, along with the matching rear wheels

I've had good experiences with him and he seems pretty knowledgeable and posts a lot of videos and useful resources for people so even though shipping is a little bit higher for me because he's on the West Coast It's worth taking into consideration
 
If Jag35 packs things rather than just throwing htem in a box to be bashed around and broken, that would make them a much better source than BCH. Jag35 is on the west coast vs somewhere almost to the east coast for BCH, for those closer to one than the other for shipping costs.

LInk to Jag35's motor wheel offering:
https://jag35.com/collections/accessories-1/products/26-bafang-36v-dc-electric-bike-wheel-tire-w-tektro-disk-break

Jag35 also partners with BatteryHookup (who have been used very successfully by many here on ES), so that's good news (though BH doesn't have these wheels).

Also, Jag35 does have the Sturmey Archer IGH/drumbrake rear wheels for sale (where BCH probably threw them all away after the initial successful orders, rather than selling them to those of us that repeatedly asked for more).

Link to Jag35's IGH wheel offering (though the link says disk brake it's not, because it's a built in drum brake)
https://jag35.com/collections/accessories-1/products/26-bafang-rear-wheel-tire-w-tektro-disk-break
For me in Arizona from Jag in California, it's not even $20 for shipping one, so it comes out as a really good deal for less than $70, or about half the price of *just* the IGH itself (new) for a whole used wheel that has probably seen almost no use (based on the ones I already ahve from BCH). Ordering two doesnt' double teh shipping cost, which is nice. (only adds about another two thirds of cost of shipping just one)

One question about Jag35 is whether they also send any of the accessory pieces (nuts, washers, torque washers, brake calipers for the disc wheels, brake cable pull rod hardware for the IGH wheels, etc), which BCH included in at least some shipments (even though they were likely lost from broken boxes in some or many shipments). If anyone that has ordered from Jag35 can post that here, too, it would be helpful.
 
I've arrived back in Tucson and have inspected the motor/whl. ASM from Jag35.
It was shipped in a plastic bag w/ just a little padding on the axles, but overall it's in really gd. shape. A few scratches on the motor side cover, but the rim and spokes are scratch-free.
The tire is a Schwalbe Marathon (26 X 2.00) w/ approx. 90% of the tread left.
There was no hardware of any sort asides from the attached brk. disc. (a very heavy Tektro, which I replaced).
If it runs, and I have no reason to think it won't, this is a really great deal
I will try it out in the next couple of days.
I really like the look of the plain flat blk rim and blk. spokes. Wish the motor was blk was well.
Shipping was $21, so a total of $66. :bigthumb: .
Note; I ordered the exact same tire last year and the best price I could find was $34 (including shipping), but it was from Europe (Bike Inn) and it took almost a month to arrive.
 
Well, I mounted the SWX02 and test rode it.
I'm only running a 17 Amp controller and that may be holding it back a bit (20 Amper ordered).
The tiny Q100H I replaced is actually quicker off the line, but it's a low-speed 201 (w/ compound gears). And again, I think a stronger controller will help in this regard.
Overall, I'm very happy w/ this purchase, probably the best value item I have ever bought in 10 years of buying ebike stuff.
PS-The wheel isn't perfect. I can see it wobble a bit, but I don't feel it when riding.
 
motomech said:
Well, I mounted the SWX02 and test rode it and I'm only seeing 24 to 25 MPH, so I guess it's a solid mid-speed range motor.
I'm only running a 17 Amp controller and that may be holding it back a bit (20 Amper ordered).
The tiny Q100H I replaced is actually quicker off the line, but it's a low-speed 201 (w/ compound gears). And again, I think a stronger controller will help in this regard.
Overall, I'm very happy w/ this purchase, probably the best value item I have ever bought in 10 years of buying ebike stuff.
PS-The wheel isn't perfect. I can see it wobble a bit, but I don't feel it when riding.
Click to expand...

Hey momotech, I was thinking about buying a few of these for the family, but worried about what controller and other hardware pairings. It sounds like you just replaced your existing wheel with a previous kit? I was wondering if you had a model number for a plug and play controller that wouldn't have to be remapped? Thanks!
 
It's just a standard hub motor and the connector, which I call a 9-pin, is shown further up in this tread.
It is just the motor/whl. ASM and the other things like the controller, pas sensor, ebrake sensor, etc would have to be sourced.
I've never used a "kit", but I wonder how many are truely "plug and play", although some might get close.
It is a front mount and it's generally recommended that first timers use it w/ a steel non-suspension fork. I mounted it on a suspension fork, but I have been doing this for 10 years. Even so, I am extreemly careful and double and triple ck. everything to do w/ the mounting.
As I am a KISS kind of guy, I use a simple square-wave controller from these folks;
www.pswpower.com/products/36v-48v-500w-brushless-dc-square-wave-controller-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-right-output-30
You would also need a display, and again, I use the simplest LED unit. I also get my torque arms from them.
I go into a little more detail on this latest budget but high quality build here;
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=110546
Having said all of that, this motor/wheel ASM is very solid. The quality of the rim and spokes is first-rate and the quality tire it comes with is a bonus.
If you are into the idea of furthering your ebike education and spending the time to do the build, it's a great basis for a great ebike.
Pretty much all of us here had to start somewhere and after one has completed the first build, successive builds are a "piece of cake".
 
motomech said:
It's just a standard hub motor and the connector, which I call a 9-pin, is shown further up in this tread.
It is just the motor/whl. ASM and the other things like the controller, pas sensor, ebrake sensor, etc would have to be sourced.
I've never used a "kit", but I wonder how many are truely "plug and play", although some might get close.
It is a front mount and it's generally recommended that first timers use it w/ a steel non-suspension fork. I mounted it on a suspension fork, but I have been doing this for 10 years. Even so, I am extreemly careful and double and triple ck. everything to do w/ the mounting.
As I am a KISS kind of guy, I use a simple square-wave controller from these folks;
www.pswpower.com/products/36v-48v-500w-brushless-dc-square-wave-controller-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-right-output-30
You would also need a display, and again, I use the simplest LED unit. I also get my torque arms from them.
I go into a little more detail on this latest budget but high quality build here;
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=110546
Having said all of that, this motor/wheel ASM is very solid. The quality of the rim and spokes is first-rate and the quality tire it comes with is a bonus.
If you are into the idea of furthering your ebike education and spending the time to do the build, it's a great basis for a great ebike.
Pretty much all of us here had to start somewhere and after one has completed the first build, successive builds are a "piece of cake".
Click to expand...

Hey awesome, thank you! I just finished installing a BBS02B mid drive onto my bike last week (it was a kit) and finished building myself a 48v battery on Saturday, so I am willing to learn. I want to now get motors for my whole family so we can ride up and down the river path (also in Tucson). It appears I would have to re-lace all of their wheels because they are 20/24/29 in size, of course none 26...

Thanks for the link to the controller, I feel better when someone here vouches for a site. So if I get that controller I would get the 9 pin wire adapter here https://www.pswpower.com/products/motor-cable-with-9-pin-waterproof-motor-wire-motor-connector-86 and then just string it up to where everything goes?

Also my kid's bikes don't have the 100mm clearance up front, I have so far assumed I can bend them out a little bit to make room for the motor (it's not a big stretch, between 5-12mm for the two bikes).

Thanks again for helping me to button together some other the other pieces.
 
I want to now get motors for my whole family so we can ride up and down the river path (also in Tucson).
Click to expand...

A couple of years ago, I used to ride the multi-use paths around Tucson quite a bit. My goal was the complete circle, but at that time the entire route wasn't finished (not sure about now).
Technically, ebikes are not allowed on the paths (see the signs at path entry points). But I found if I stayed slow and stealthy, nobody payed me any attention. At busy times, there are monitors riding. Keep an eye out for them, (they wear shirts ID'ing themselves) and don't pass them.

It appears I would have to re-lace all of their wheels because they are 20/24/29 in size, of course none 26..
Click to expand...
Pretty sure you can run a 26" whl. on a 29'er no problem. It will lower the frt. a bit, but I don't think pedal strikes would be a prob .

Thanks for the link to the controller, I feel better when someone here vouches for a site. So if I get that controller I would get the 9 pin wire adapter here https://www.pswpower.com/products/motor ... nnector-86 and then just string it up to where everything goes?
Click to expand...

For a in-China vendor, PSW Power is very gd. I've been using them for years. They also have a nice Ebay store;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/diyebike2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

You will notice the controllers are more complete w/ the display and 9-pin cable.

You know what, I'm in Tucson and have a box full of parts and I will give you those little parts (plus the PAS disc and sensor).
Also, when I installed the Bafang, I took off a nice low-speed mini Q100 in a 24 " wheel w/ all kind of tires. I would sell it for what I payed for the SWX02 ($65). It's much more quiet than the Bafang and tops out at 20 mph on 48 Volts (18 on 36V). The SWX02 has a lot of gear whine and it's rather big, not what I would call stealthy.
I'm retired and home all the time right now working on my house.
PM me if you are interested.
You can ride my mountain bike w/ the SWX02 :D
 
Went back to 14S LiPoly, fully charged to 56 Volts and did 27.8 mph.
No wind, flat, no pedaling, 2.0" X 26" tires.
I'm a happy camper.
 
motomech said:
A couple of years ago, I used to ride the multi-use paths around Tucson quite a bit. My goal was the complete circle, but at that time the entire route wasn't finished (not sure about now).
Technically, ebikes are not allowed on the paths (see the signs at path entry points). But I found if I stayed slow and stealthy, nobody payed me any attention. At busy times, there are monitors riding. Keep an eye out for them, (they wear shirts ID'ing themselves) and don't pass them.

Pretty sure you can run a 26" whl. on a 29'er no problem. It will lower the frt. a bit, but I don't think pedal strikes would be a prob .

For a in-China vendor, PSW Power is very gd. I've been using them for years. They also have a nice Ebay store;
https://www.ebay.com/sch/diyebike2010/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

You will notice the controllers are more complete w/ the display and 9-pin cable.

You know what, I'm in Tucson and have a box full of parts and I will give you those little parts (plus the PAS disc and sensor).
Also, when I installed the Bafang, I took off a nice low-speed mini Q100 in a 24 " wheel w/ all kind of tires. I would sell it for what I payed for the SWX02 ($65). It's much more quiet than the Bafang and tops out at 20 mph on 48 Volts (18 on 36V). The SWX02 has a lot of gear whine and it's rather big, not what I would call stealthy.
I'm retired and home all the time right now working on my house.
PM me if you are interested.
You can ride my mountain bike w/ the SWX02 :D
Click to expand...

Ah interesting about the motor restrictions, I just assumed those signs were for combustion engines. People seem to not mind the signs too much as I went on a long ride today and saw two parks carts and a handful of ebikes today, with one guy easily doing 20+ while barely pedaling. I’ll be mindful of the monitors =D

Also awesome on the pspower stuff, I’m going to put in my order tonight.

And thanks for the offer! I may take you up on the Q100. Sounds like it can run both 36 and 48 based on the controller? How does it compare to the bafang and did you just stop using it?
 
The Q100H (originaly called the "Cute") is a very small (2 Kg.) geared mini-motor that is about half the size and weight of the 3.6 Kg. Bafang SWX02. The "201" low-speed version uses compound gears to attain a 12.6 to 1 reduction ratio which gives it performance that belies it's size.
It is very quiet and smooth.
I replaced it w/ the Bafang because I wanted to go faster, The SWX02 -28 mph vs. Q100 - 21 mph in the same application. The Cute really isn't very noticeable when mounted in the frt. fork, while with the Bafang, it's apparent there is a big chunk of metal swinging around up there. The change in the bike's overall feel is the trade-off to go faster.
These, along w/ various Bafang models are probably the most commonly used hub motors Worldwide.
https://bmsbattery.com/motor/630-16309-q100h-36v350w-front-driving-ebike-hub-motor-ebike-kit.html#/213-rpm-201
The one I have is laced to an Alex DM32 (24") rim w/ Sipam stainless spokes w/ a 2.35" CST tire and a Kenda extra thick tube. This combo is resistant to flats from Goat's Head thorns which is, IMO, is the biggest prob. when riding in Southern Az.
I have an extra CST and a bunch of regular tubes that would go w/ it.
 
I got my my DIY ebike conversion working using this wheel, and here are some observations:

* The motor has lots of power-- fun!

* It freewheels to a stop within about 5 seconds, compared to about 20 seconds for my non-motorized front wheel. Is that normal for hub motors?

* There's just a little "rubber on metal" sound that comes from the axle as as the wheel stops. It's quiet enough that I only hear it when the bike is upside down and indoors. Should I put a drop of oil or silicone grease on the spot where the wire enters the axle?

* Both of the wheels I bought from BCH are a little out of true, and they both have a couple loose spokes that will need tightening. With the wheel spinning, the disc wobbles back and forth about 2mm, and the rim wobbles about 3-4mm. Do disc brakes have tighter wheel-trueness tolerances than rim brakes? Also, is it easier/recommended to get front forks that have disc brake eyelets (hopefully without shocks, since 2" fat tires are their own shock absorbers), or to just get a disc brake conversion kit?

I have rigid front forks with cantilever "V" brakes, so for a test ride around the neighborhood, I just used my rim brakes, despite the sticker saying "Rim for disc brake use only". The rim brakes worked well enough for a test ride. Here are a few observations:
* The rim braking surface is painted, so I imagine there might be rough braking when the paint starts peeling off.
* The rim braking surface is slightly curved, but not enough to stop the brake pads from working.
* My cantilever rim brake lightly rubs the rim on the "disc side" of the wheel, and has about a 10mm gap on the other side. Cantilever brakes never seem to stay fully centered, but I also wonder if front disc wheels are centered between the forks the same as front wheels that don't have disc brakes? Possibly they are offset due to the width of the disc itself?
 
bancars said:
* It freewheels to a stop within about 5 seconds, compared to about 20 seconds for my non-motorized front wheel. Is that normal for hub motors?
Click to expand...
There is a lot more drag on the roller clutch in there than on a bicycle wheel bearing...so yes, it's normal. Most of my regular bike wheels can spin on for minutes if I give them a good hand spin with the bike upside down. A DD hubmotor may stop within a couple of rotations for big heavy motors with powerful magnets, and a small geared hub may spin a dozen times or so, sometimes more.


* There's just a little "rubber on metal" sound that comes from the axle as as the wheel stops. It's quiet enough that I only hear it when the bike is upside down and indoors. Should I put a drop of oil or silicone grease on the spot where the wire enters the axle?
Click to expand...
No. If the wire is rubbing on something that's spinning, you need to move it so it can't, or it will cut thru it and short out your controller eventually.

If there is a rubber washer sealing the area between axle and motor cover, you might be able to "oil" that.


* Both of the wheels I bought from BCH are a little out of true, and they both have a couple loose spokes that will need tightening. With the wheel spinning, the disc wobbles back and forth about 2mm, and the rim wobbles about 3-4mm. Do disc brakes have tighter wheel-trueness tolerances than rim brakes?
Click to expand...
For disc brakes it doesn't matter how laterally true the wheel is, only how round it is.

It does matter how laterally true the *rotor* is--there are adjustment "wrenches" made to gently bend the rotor back to true; it takes some time to do this. It is often easier to replace the rotor than to true a bent-up one.


Also, is it easier/recommended to get front forks that have disc brake eyelets (hopefully without shocks, since 2" fat tires are their own shock absorbers), or to just get a disc brake conversion kit?
Click to expand...
If your fork doesnt' have disc mounting tabs, there *are* addons to clamp to it...but I don't know how well they will work since they will flex more than a fork with tabs welded on would. Also, if it has a part that goes over the axle, it likely won't fit over the hubmotor axle without modification (it's much larger than the bicycle axle), and it may add enough thickness to cause problems putting torque arms on both sides (to prevent spinning out the motor axle in the forks which damages the fork, the motor axle, and the wiring, and sometimes blows up the controller and often enough leads to faceplant if the wheel comes out of the fork or jams in it and stops suddenly).


I welded on tabs cut from one fork onto one that didnt' ahve them rather than change forks, some years back, and it worked ok, but the calipers I used were so crappy that even a wet crappy rim brake was much better. :lol:

Now I run an Avid BB7 cable oeprated caliper and I can lockup the wheel with a 200mm rotor on it easily, on the heavy cargo hauler trike SB Cruiser. (this took two crappy rim brakes to do, on the same fork, and coudln't be done with a crappy disc).

You can probably get a fork with disc tabs on it that will match the geometry of your existing fork, but it may take some time looking around for a good match. It needs to have the same steerer type and size, the same crown-bearing-race size, the same "rake" / caster, and the same length from crown to dropouts, or it will change the way the bike handles (sometimes good or neutral, often bad) and will force you to make other changes to fit it (each change cascading thru and making you make yet other changes).

I have rigid front forks with cantilever "V" brakes, so for a test ride around the neighborhood, I just used my rim brakes, despite the sticker saying "Rim for disc brake use only". The rim brakes worked well enough for a test ride. Here are a few observations:
* The rim braking surface is painted, so I imagine there might be rough braking when the paint starts peeling off.
* The rim braking surface is slightly curved, but not enough to stop the brake pads from working.
Click to expand...

The pads will eventually bed into the curve...and wear off the anodizing or paint (contaminating the pads in the process, which will affect their braking power).

It's still better than nothing. :)


* My cantilever rim brake lightly rubs the rim on the "disc side" of the wheel, and has about a 10mm gap on the other side. Cantilever brakes never seem to stay fully centered, but I also wonder if front disc wheels are centered between the forks the same as front wheels that don't have disc brakes? Possibly they are offset due to the width of the disc itself?
Click to expand...

The disc wheel itself, it's rim/tire, should still be centered. The hub itself is offset to make room for the disc and caliper on that side, so if you look at a regular bike's front disc wheel it looks like a mirror image of it's rear wheel, where the spokes on the left side of the disc wheel are straighter up and down than those on the right (reversed for a rear wheel with multigear cluster).
 
Sorry, need to revive this for a quick question.

Trying to determine if this motor (still available at batteryclearinghouse) has the internal speedometer required by Ebikes.ca cycle analyst here:
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/cycle-analysts/ca2-dp.html

I plan on using their C-C4820-GR_Higo controller if they get more in stock.

They are out of stock on the CA-DPS that I would likely choose, so looking for alternatives.
 
The motor has six pulses per rotation to indicate speed, which isn't related to its motor and doesn't stop when the motor overruns its one-way clutch.
 
I bought two of these. Running one on a 20A square wave controller. It has a higher pitched whine than a Q100H on a sinewave model, or that could be resonance in the alloy frame (steel fork). Mine has an internal speedometer, and I agree it it is 6X, per Chalo's comment.

Running the above on a steelfork. Axle was not wide enough to use a commercial torque arm and torque washers. I put a thinner torque plate on one side, and used a torque wrench to take the nuts to 25 ft-lbs.
 
Yeah, I would call it a metalic resonance that grated on my nerves.
Also, it was a little heavy for a frt. mount and the 10 Turn motor was a little faster than I needed (27 mph on 52 V in a 26" whl.).
I bought a new SWXO2 13 Turn rear motor and swapped it's core into the Jump/Bafang wheel and was pleasantly surprised to find that it's very quiet, like a Q100.
Overall, it's the best smaller hub motor build I've done and it will hit 25 mph. Doesn't really seem to want to climb any better than a compound-geared Q100H, probably showing it's dated design here.
 
So I have the stermey Archer IGHs as well as the Bafang front hubs. No hardware No spokes no wheels but I got 50+ of each. West coast here as well. U pay shipping, I'll box em up w love and send em out!
 
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