Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

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HaTaX   1 µW

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Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by HaTaX » Mar 25 2021 2:34pm

I purchased a Freego FS-10S (Really a ES-10S they renamed to FS for some reason in the USA) back in 2019 from Amazon. It was returned and because of the issues I had out of box I got it for really cheap, about $375.

It's a 48V (13S4P battery pack rated at 10.4Ah / 499.2Wh) scooter with what appears to be a Bafang hub motor in the rear. Motor has the following info printed on it: LY48V10'500W. Controller looks to be made by JYTJD, label on it indicates Freego as the manufacturer but the model number is YCSV030-102-48(891HA) which lines up with other posts I've seen for JYTJD controllers. Controller has a max current rating of 20+/-1A and has 6 P75NF75 FETs, I've had it open a few times to perform a shunt mod and have a poke around in there.

When I received it I found a few issues with it, #1 being that it was advertised as having an 800watt motor but it's clearly a 500watt unit that also matches all the specifications of the ES-10S that is sold in other parts of the world. I think the USA distributor of it just upped the current limit in the P-Settings and said 'Poof! It's 800watts now' which I guess isn't really a lie. This plus some physical scrapes and such allowed me to get a large discount from what I originally paid for it. The LCD on it can be janky at times along with the cracked and repaired throttle.

The second biggest issue that was present from day 1 and one I still encounter is this: When riding around the neighborhood I'll slow down to take a turn by lightly pressing the brake lever to just engage the regen braking / electric motor brake, enter the corner, and at the half way point of coming out of the corner I'll apply the throttle (doesn't matter if I give it 25% or 100% throttle here). At this point the scooter feels like the motor brake is strongly applied and I'll see a Error 4 message which the manual says is a controller error. If I let off the throttle the error message goes away on its own after a few seconds and I can accelerate normally, 1 out of 20 times the error won't clear and I'll have to power cycle the scooter and it comes back like nothing ever happened. Overall this gets pretty irritating as it happens over 50% of the time I slow down with the brake lightly applied and then accelerate shortly after.

I've got the full documentation for all the P-Settings on the scooter and this controller looks to be suited for bike or scooter use. I'm not sure if any of the PAS settings could be playing a role in that error or maybe one of the other settings like "Dragging strength" which I believe to be the motor brake strength.

Believing that the controller had some issues and seeing that most of the parts on this scooter seem to be fairly generic I figured I'd give the shunt mod a go to see if I could get a little more push for going up hills. I've got the P-Setting current limit set up at 25A but I'm sure the controller won't go over the 20A that's printed on the label. Of note the current setting comes from the factory at 12A per the documentation but mine was set at 15 when I received it. The shunt mod did make a decent difference on hill climbing and top speed by a few MPH, and it doesn't seem to have caused any other issues as it doesn't get too hot or do anything else out of the ordinary. It doesn't have all the hill climbing power I'd like from it, but ultimately it's a single motor and does well in my opinion. If I want more climbing power from it I'd assume I'll need to look into adding a front motor as well (Which there is a dual motor version of this same scooter and I think the front fork is setup to hold a motor if I wanted to go that route)

Attached are a number of pictures of the internals along with the P-Settings guide in case it's useful to someone in the future. For scale the screw holes on the bottom deck are about 4.5" on center to give an idea of room in the deck.

Questions I have:
1.) Any ideas on parameters I could tweak or adjust to possibly help with the Error 4 message I get?
2.) Recommendations on a decent controller that supports a LCD in the 25-30A range? Old controller is about 4.5" long but I have more space in there for a larger controller.
3.) Thoughts on replacing the battery pack with a 21700 cell based pack and/or going with a 52V unit, will it add a noticeable bump to hill climbing torque?

Thanks in advance for any info on what I should do with this thing! Overall I like it a lot and am impressed with speed while carrying me, it can nip at 30MPH on a flat run with 190lb me on it and up more gradual hills it can maintain 16MPH+. I'm happy with those speeds, I'd just like to get rid of the controller errors and possibly get a bit more pep up hills. If it takes an entirely new controller, LCD, throttle then I'm okay with that.
Attachments
Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_1.png
Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_1.png (69.86 KiB) Viewed 195 times
Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_2.png
Freego - Display Setting Parameters List for All Freego Models2018.6.8(Latest)_Page_2.png (47.2 KiB) Viewed 195 times
NeckIntoBase-Controller.png
NeckIntoBase-Controller.png (2.13 MiB) Viewed 195 times
RearMotor.png
RearMotor.png (2.3 MiB) Viewed 195 times
BottomPanelOff2.jpg
BottomPanelOff2.jpg (130.74 KiB) Viewed 195 times
ControllerInternals1.jpg
ControllerInternals1.jpg (155.77 KiB) Viewed 195 times
ControllerInternals2.jpg
ControllerInternals2.jpg (128.83 KiB) Viewed 195 times
ControllerOutside.jpg
ControllerOutside.jpg (139.48 KiB) Viewed 195 times
Battery.png
Battery.png (1.24 MiB) Viewed 195 times

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by amberwolf » Mar 25 2021 7:45pm

HaTaX wrote:
Mar 25 2021 2:34pm
When riding around the neighborhood I'll slow down to take a turn by lightly pressing the brake lever to just engage the regen braking / electric motor brake, enter the corner, and at the half way point of coming out of the corner I'll apply the throttle (doesn't matter if I give it 25% or 100% throttle here). At this point the scooter feels like the motor brake is strongly applied and I'll see a Error 4 message which the manual says is a controller error. If I let off the throttle the error message goes away on its own after a few seconds and I can accelerate normally, 1 out of 20 times the error won't clear and I'll have to power cycle the scooter and it comes back like nothing ever happened. Overall this gets pretty irritating as it happens over 50% of the time I slow down with the brake lightly applied and then accelerate shortly after.
Was this before, or after, the shunt mod?

What happens when you restore the controller to it's correct current limit settings (and the original unmodified shunt if it happened only after the mod)?

Remember that the current limit and shunt resistance affects not only the acceleration, but also the braking (all current thru the system). If the braking current is so high that it feels abnormal, it may also be overheating things in the controller (which may be already hotter than originally designed for because of the greater acceleration / etc power used), and causing an error. It might not be temperature, but some other issue, but temperature is more common.

If this is a controller that can do throttle braking, meaning you first pull the brake lever, then use the throttle to control amount of braking, rather than one that is just on/off braking when pulling the lever, then it may be a matter of timing for which thing happens first and exactly when, for what behavior you get.

Side note: if the throttle is mechanically broken, even if it's been glued back together, etc., it might be good to replace it just in case the damage has misaligned the magnets or sensor such that sometimes they don't operate as intended.

Same thing for the brake lever.

"Dragging strength" which I believe to be the motor brake strength.
DS probably is regen braking amount. Turnign that down, if restoring the other current limits and shunt don't fix it, might help.
2.) Recommendations on a decent controller that supports a LCD in the 25-30A range? Old controller is about 4.5" long but I have more space in there for a larger controller.
Different LCDs (even on the same controller) may have different info and settings available. Different controllers, same thing. LCDs and controllers are generally not intercompatible, with specific exceptions, so many must come together to work, or else you have to know whcih ones work together to be sure they do, *and* that they give you access to the specific things you want, as a set.

So what specifically do you need to be able to see on the LCD, and what settings do you need access to?

What voltage do you want the set to be capable of, in case you decide to up the voltage later?


Regarding the greatly increased battery current...is the battery actually capable of handling that high a current, for all the situations you may be riding in? At 4p, 30A is 7.5A per cell which is probably a little high for generic cells (which are likely what is in the pack). If it's 10Ah that means they're only 2.5Ah cells, so 7.5A / 2.5Ah is 3C (some generic cells don't even do 1C particularly well).

You probably have no info on what the BMS itself is rated for, as they are typically not marked (at least not in English), but when they are not designed for as high a current as they are used at, the FETs get hotter, and eventually can fail. They often fail shorted, which in this case means the output is stuck "on", and if the discharge and charge ports are the same, it also means the input is stuck on, so the BMS can no longer protect the cells against overcharge or overdischarge. You may have no sign that the FETs have failed, other than visual examination (if they blew their casings open / cracked / deformed / burned/ etc), or testing for functionality (the they shut off charge if a cell goes too high, and shut off discharge if a cell goes too low).

Most likely the pack you have was not designed for any higher than the 10A it was originally setup for. It may "work" at higher currents, but the harder it is pushed the shorter it's life will be. ;)



3.) Thoughts on replacing the battery pack with a 21700 cell based pack and/or going with a 52V unit, will it add a noticeable bump to hill climbing torque?
If you want more torque, you probably need a different motor, or to increase current to the motor you have. More voltage will give you more *speed* (depending on the specific controller and motor winding you may also see some torque increase, but that's because it is giving more current to the motor under the specific conditions you see the torque increase). The Grin Tech motor simulator can help to see how all this works.

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by HaTaX » Mar 26 2021 12:55pm

Was this before, or after, the shunt mod?

What happens when you restore the controller to it's correct current limit settings (and the original unmodified shunt if it happened only after the mod)?
This happened from day 1 of getting the scooter with no shunt modifications or changes to the parameters for the controller (via the LCD). The factory setting per the guide for max current was 12A, and I did try going down to 10A and up to 20A but it didn't seem to have an effect as I still got Error 4 messages after decel and then acceleration. Not 100% sure if it changed how often I saw it as I was basically just testing to see if I could get rid of it and I didn't try it for an extended period. I know this seems like a likely answer, but I promise it did this before the shunt mod. My thought was that the controller already had issues, so if I kill it with a shunt mod it wouldn't really bother me much. I didn't expect it to fix the Error 4 issue honestly, I just wanted to push it a little harder for some of those hills.
If this is a controller that can do throttle braking, meaning you first pull the brake lever, then use the throttle to control amount of braking, rather than one that is just on/off braking when pulling the lever, then it may be a matter of timing for which thing happens first and exactly when, for what behavior you get.
This is great info! I had no idea some controllers were setup to use a variable braking as described. Honestly I always let off the throttle completely when braking so I'm not sure if this applies or not, I'll have to give it a whirl when I test some of the other configuration changes I have in mind now.
Side note: if the throttle is mechanically broken, even if it's been glued back together, etc., it might be good to replace it just in case the damage has misaligned the magnets or sensor such that sometimes they don't operate as intended.

Same thing for the brake lever.
The throttle did have a cracked housing which I carefully repaired with some JBWeld and I think it's working as expected. The crack affected clamping pressure on the handlebar and wasn't part of the same molded section that houses the magnet or hall pickup. I'm familiar with hall sensors enough to know that just a small deviation from the design specs (magnet coming away from the pickup in the middle of travel for example, even 1-2mm) can cause issues with readings. The LCD has a P-Setting that allows me to see the output voltage / value coming from the throttle , that's P14 - Shifters Biggest Value (their description text, not mine). I set mine at 48 which is just below the max value I see from the throttle at 49.something. As I understand this P-Setting represents the max value from the throttle to define the throttle range, and that's why I set it just below the actual max value. If I use a smaller number here, the controller would read max throttle when the throttle itself would be at 75% for example. If I use a bigger number, the controller would never see max throttle as it wouldn't reach a value above 49. In any case I see a linear output from the throttle on the LCD while in this P-Setting (Top number is set value and bottom number shows the reading from the throttle), it starts down around 4 and goes up to just above 49 as I move it from 0 - 100%. I'm not adverse to replacing the throttle along with a new controller and LCD however and would plan on replacing all 3 as a set.
DS probably is regen braking amount. Turnign that down, if restoring the other current limits and shunt don't fix it, might help.
I think I may try turning it off completely to see if just using the mechanical brake prevents the error. Seems silly but I haven't tried that approach yet and I feel a bit dumb for not testing that.
Different LCDs (even on the same controller) may have different info and settings available. Different controllers, same thing. LCDs and controllers are generally not intercompatible, with specific exceptions, so many must come together to work, or else you have to know whcih ones work together to be sure they do, *and* that they give you access to the specific things you want, as a set.

So what specifically do you need to be able to see on the LCD, and what settings do you need access to?

What voltage do you want the set to be capable of, in case you decide to up the voltage later?
Ideally the LCD would offer some programming capabilities but during normal use I just want to display speed, distance, battery level or voltage. The current setup seems to be a little fancy as it has automatic headlights with adjustable light / dark thresholds, and it also appears to have 2 different latch-able outputs. Holding the up button turns off the side LEDs and I believe the entire BT audio board. Holding the down button forces the headlamp on and disregards the auto on/off settings. These features are nice to have but not necessary on a replacement unit, in fact I haven't seen anything similar on other parts I've come across. From the research I've done, this LCD uses the J-LCD / Kingmeter protocol and that severely limits replacement options with this controller, or reusing the LCD. If I replace the controller, I'll do it as a set with a LCD and throttle that are matched with it. Ideally the controller would handle up to 60V if I decide to go with a higher voltage battery pack at some point but I don't see going above that on a single motor scooter, seems like diminishing returns after that point as I don't need or want to go over 40MPH.
Regarding the greatly increased battery current...is the battery actually capable of handling that high a current, for all the situations you may be riding in? At 4p, 30A is 7.5A per cell which is probably a little high for generic cells (which are likely what is in the pack). If it's 10Ah that means they're only 2.5Ah cells, so 7.5A / 2.5Ah is 3C (some generic cells don't even do 1C particularly well).
Excellent point, the current pack doesn't have a discharge rate printed on it but I did come across an extremely similar looking pack from Alibaba previously and it was rated for 20A. Now can it sustain a 20A draw for extended periods or at all? I'm unsure and unfortunately my ammeter isn't gonna work well as it's just a big clamp style, I don't have one of the nice BT enabled monitors I can hook inline.

The BMS is buried in the pack which I haven't opened up. It has separate charging leads from the discharge side. There's been no odd behavior from the batteries overall but I'm also good about not riding it below 20% and unplugging it after the charger turns green or timing it for about 2 hours. Charger is 3A, so it charges in about 3.5 hours, I figure 20% is roughly 2Ah left in the pack and 2 hours of charging puts 6Ah back in for a total of 8Ah which is right around the 80% mark. Once a month or so I charge it completely up and unplug after 8 hours so the cells can balance out if needed.

Initially when I got the scooter the battery felt soft and a bit short on run time. I ran it down to 20% and did a few full charges on it. After a few days of that it seemed to really come back to life, better acceleration power and it ran for much longer distances. Replacing the battery is a certainty in the not too distance future, seeing as it was made about 3 years ago I'm sure it's lost a decent percentage of it's health. The 21700 cells are attractive because of the higher capacity and discharge rate, seems like it's fairly easy to find one that can handle a 3C discharge rate. Since there's some extra room in the deck I could upsize the battery and/or controller, just need to find that balance.

Thanks again for the feedback! It made me think of a few things to try with the controller's P-Settings.

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by amberwolf » Mar 26 2021 11:58pm

HaTaX wrote:
Mar 26 2021 12:55pm

This happened from day 1 of getting the scooter with no shunt modifications or changes to the parameters for the controller (via the LCD). The factory setting per the guide for max current was 12A, and I did try going down to 10A and up to 20A but it didn't seem to have an effect as I still got Error 4 messages after decel and then acceleration. Not 100% sure if it changed how often I saw it as I was basically just testing to see if I could get rid of it and I didn't try it for an extended period. I know this seems like a likely answer, but I promise it did this before the shunt mod. My thought was that the controller already had issues, so if I kill it with a shunt mod it wouldn't really bother me much. I didn't expect it to fix the Error 4 issue honestly, I just wanted to push it a little harder for some of those hills.

No worries--it is just that very very often it is the last modification made (or the ones that prevent the controller from correctly detecting problematic conditions (which is what a shunt mod does for overcurrent issues) that is the root cause of a problem, and most people that come here don't check that (and sometimes don't believe that it is even possible to be a cause...even when later on they undo the change and it suddenly works again ;) (though that doesnt' usually happen)).

This is great info! I had no idea some controllers were setup to use a variable braking as described. Honestly I always let off the throttle completely when braking so I'm not sure if this applies or not, I'll have to give it a whirl when I test some of the other configuration changes I have in mind now.
Not many controllers can do it. Most of them are more high-end, but IIRC the Open Source FirmWare for KT controllers here on the forum has versions that can do proportional regen / variable braking. Dont' recall how they are setup to do it.

The Grinfineon series at http://ebikes.ca does it, as does the Phaserunner, though not quite the same way others do; you use a throttle input below 0.8v down to 0.0v while holding the brake lever, to vary regen strength from min (0.8v) to max (0.0v). This requires a non-hall-based throttle (potentiometer, etc) to accomplish, and a detent or similar between the 0.8v and 1.2v points to latch the throttle at "off" when not doing braking, so you ahve ot force it down into the braking range when you want it, and it won't accidentally end up there. ;)

If the Grinfineon is used in conjunction with the Cycle Analyst v3.14, then the CA will do the remapping of regular throttle voltage range (around 1v-4v) down to the 0.8v-0.0v for you, so no special throttle is needed--just the ebrake lever and the throttle.

Using the CA and the Grinfineon, you can even make the brake lever do *all* of the controlling, if you use a cable-operated throttle pulled by the brake handle, and some relays. (see here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=105460 )

The throttle did have a cracked housing which I carefully repaired with some JBWeld and I think it's working as expected. The crack affected clamping pressure on the handlebar and wasn't part of the same molded section that houses the magnet or hall pickup.
Then that's probably nothing to do with the problem, and will probably not affect operation. Just have seen (and had) many crappy broken throttles, some of which literally disintegrate while in use, and leave the controller at half power or greater and me with a handful of broken plastic and being thankful for an ebrake cutoff or killswitch! :oops:


I'm not adverse to replacing the throttle along with a new controller and LCD however and would plan on replacing all 3 as a set.
If it works, no need to replace it, unless you just want a different kind.

Almost all throttles out there are the same ...er..."basic" ;) level of manufacturing and technology. Even the expensive ones (some of the $30 throttles are exactly the same as the $2 ones, with the same markings and made by the same factory...just different sellers charging more).

I now use a metal ATV thumb throttle/brake lever unit, where the throttle operates a cable-operated throttle (COT) which is a LOT higher quality (even though it's less than $10 including shipping from china, *and* is water-resistant or better) rather than having yet another crappy plastic thing to come apart on the handlebars. :lol: (I also use a COT for the variable braking, pulled by a brake lever...see that linked thread earlier in this post).




Excellent point, the current pack doesn't have a discharge rate printed on it but I did come across an extremely similar looking pack from Alibaba previously and it was rated for 20A. Now can it sustain a 20A draw for extended periods or at all?
I wouldn't make any bets based on Alibaba / aliexpress / ebay / etc "specifications". ;) Sellers lie frequently, and not just little lies. Poke around at some of the "is this a good deal?" type of threads, and various "bike/scooter/etc stops working too soon (or under load, etc)" troubleshooting threads, and you'll see some of the laughably ridiculous specs provided for various parts (especially batteries). :(

So while the 20A spec could be true, for the similar pack you saw, it may well not be, and even if it was, I would not bet that the one you have is similarly capable just because it appears similarly designed/built. :( It might...it might not. Testing is the only certain way to find out (even for packs that are actually labelled, since they cant' always be trusted). Hopefully you'll pardon the pessimism, but there have been far more crappy packs posted about here on ES than good ones, and so many problems caused simply by incapable batteries.... :/

I'm unsure and unfortunately my ammeter isn't gonna work well as it's just a big clamp style, I don't have one of the nice BT enabled monitors I can hook inline.
Even clamp on meter is better than no meter to find out what current is actually being pulled at any moment, but it doesn't tell you teh voltage at the same time like a wattmeter would, unfortunatley, and for testing whether a pack is really suitable for an application it can be very helpful to see the voltage sag under various loads.




Initially when I got the scooter the battery felt soft and a bit short on run time. I ran it down to 20% and did a few full charges on it. After a few days of that it seemed to really come back to life, better acceleration power and it ran for much longer distances. Replacing the battery is a certainty in the not too distance future, seeing as it was made about 3 years ago I'm sure it's lost a decent percentage of it's health.
As you've found, sometimes a battery on the shy side of it's abilities improves if left on the charger. The longer it's left on charge, the more of a chance it has to balance...as long as the BMS's FETs are working correclty to turn off the charge port if any cell reaches HVC, so it doens't overcharge them (when it's badly unbalanced at the start of the process)--they usually are. Some chargers don't restart on their own, so it has to be disconnected and reconnected (or actually power cycled) to restart the charge process to continue balancing. Yours doesn't sound like it needs that, and does it on it's own...but if you want to try it out you could leave it on the charger for as long as is practical to do so, to more fully balance it if it isn't already. (this wont' fix a really bad pack, but it does help a lot of them).


I'll have a reply about controller/display kits/etc separately, but probabely won't be tonight.

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by HaTaX » Mar 27 2021 8:59pm

amberwolf wrote:
Mar 26 2021 11:58pm
Not many controllers can do it. Most of them are more high-end, but IIRC the Open Source FirmWare for KT controllers here on the forum has versions that can do proportional regen / variable braking. Dont' recall how they are setup to do it.

The Grinfineon series at http://ebikes.ca does it, as does the Phaserunner, though not quite the same way others do; you use a throttle input below 0.8v down to 0.0v while holding the brake lever, to vary regen strength from min (0.8v) to max (0.0v). This requires a non-hall-based throttle (potentiometer, etc) to accomplish, and a detent or similar between the 0.8v and 1.2v points to latch the throttle at "off" when not doing braking, so you ahve ot force it down into the braking range when you want it, and it won't accidentally end up there. ;)
...
I'll have a reply about controller/display kits/etc separately, but probabely won't be tonight.
I took a look at the Grifineon 25A controller and CA V3 setup at ebikes.ca and they look like they'd work nicely. I've looked at the phaserunners they have and am really attracted to the size for the current they can handle but I'm not sure it's worth the 2x price over the Grifineon unit. Looks like the 25A model is only 6FET but it has the more robust IRFB4110 FETs that give the extra headroom. Really appreciate the wide range of control over things while keeping a lot of the inputs through the CA for enhanced things like that variable regen breaking.

That plus a CA v3 setup is going to run about $270, and a decent battery will likely be $3-500 I'm thinking. What I end up debating is if that money would be better spent towards a new scooter altogether and just enjoy this one for what it is or let my wife ride it. (She's about half my weight and really flies on it) I've kind of had my eyes on a few different models floating out there. Nanrobot D6+, Apollo Phantom, and Dualtron Eagle Pro / II all look pretty attractive right around the $2,000 mark. Just the controller, LCD, and battery are going to be about 1/3rd of that price.

It rained all day today so I didn't get a chance to test things, hopefully tomorrow will be a bit drier and I can fiddle with the 'Dragging Strength' a little more. :D If I can get that figured out I might just ride it till the battery pukes or let the wife beat on it for a few years.

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by HaTaX » Mar 27 2021 9:23pm

As I've done a little digging myself beyond the Grinfineon 25A controller I mentioned above, I came across this combo that looked fairly decent and only 2.5" longer than the current controller. I do like the ability to program it from an app on my phone, but not convinced I could read that display in the sunlight. I do appreciate that it utilizes sine output VS square, and seems like it has enough programmable features it could be a decent setup. The wide range of input voltage capabilities is also really nice.

https://hallomotor.com/products/hallomo ... 1305475203

Hmmm, after digging at some of the offerings at ebikeling.com I'm half tempted to throw a 1500W rear direct drive kit on my Specialized MB. Started with looking at controllers there and it's all downhill from there.

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Re: Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions

Post by amberwolf » Apr 07 2021 10:22pm

HaTaX wrote:
Mar 27 2021 9:23pm
Hmmm, after digging at some of the offerings at ebikeling.com I'm half tempted to throw a 1500W rear direct drive kit on my Specialized MB. Started with looking at controllers there and it's all downhill from there.
Once you have a motor on there, *everything* is downhill, even the uphills. :P

There's lots of places to buy kits and such from, and mostly the only differences are what features the controller has (display, programmability, etc). Batteries are another thing, and get expensive quick for decent to good stuff (lots of cheap crap out there that if it works at all can't do nearly what the sellers claim it can, or if it does, not for very long).


Regarding display readability, if you can add a small hood over it of black plastic, etc., so you can still see it from the riding position but otherwise shielding as much ambient light from it as possible, it can help quite a bit. (except when the sun angle is such that it shines directly on it, or right in your eyes).

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