new eZip motor

latecurtis said:

I still don't know why the Bafang motors will only work with no sensor wires hooked up which requires a sensorless controller.

Do you use a sensor controller or sensor less ???????

Click to expand...

I have only used sensored controllers with these Jump bike Bafang hubs.

If you don't get the phase and Hall wire assignments correct, the motor won't work (or it will run backwards, or too fast but with inadequate torque). So you have to try different Hall wire combinations until you get the right one. When the motor and controller weren't specifically made to work together, the phase and Hall wire color codes usually don't match up.

There's some chance that the Hall sensors are faulty in your motors, but it's not likely that they'd both be faulty in the same way.

A long while back, I linked you to a KT controller that plugs and plays, and fits the motor's power rating. I've used both that controller, and the 500 watt Ebikeling controller. If you don't want to use a solution that has been demonstrated to work, that's your prerogative.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-36V-22A-Controller-For-250W-350W-Brushless-Motor-Ebike-Electric-Bicycle/174100764183

I dont know what that video was to show. I see your front wheel is a tad wobbly but its nothing, I've ridden worse.
Sound seemed alright.

The clunking you typed out, but I did not hear in your video might be a mismatched combo in phase but your using sensorless. Could be a tire rubbing, bike rocking back and forth due to wobbly wheel.

Dont know why your controllers dont work with Bafang motor, could just be single defective in any one of a few area's. You might have fried throttle components inside the controller, you could have toasted some fets that dont show any defects or smells, you could have been sold defective but dont go blaming them because you have no idea whats wrong or how they were damaged. Thats why its best to know what your doing from the get go, and do things slowly and precisely in a calm, sober state of mind.

Have you done the mosfet check for the controllers?
Checked your throttle?
https://ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html


Anyways, I gotta head on out and do some Catching, yes think positively because I will be catching fish :thumb:

It has to be the sensor wires are wrong.

I found a possible solution on a electric bike forum different than this one.

However his solution is to switch phase wires around. That makes no sense to me as the phase wires have to be right or the motors would not work with a sensor less controller.

Therefore I am NOT wanting to try it at all. I was hoping there is a way to know exactly which sensor wires need to be switched. There must be a way to know. I was thinking as popular as these Bafang motors are that someone else somewhere must have run into the same dilemma.

There's some chance that the Hall sensors are faulty in your motors, but it's not likely that they'd both be faulty in the same way.

Click to expand...

That is possible but would it still work with a sensor less controller ?

I dont know what that video was to show. I see your front wheel is a tad wobbly but its nothing, I've ridden worse.
Sound seemed alright.

The clunking you typed out, but I did not hear in your video might be a mismatched combo in phase but your using sensorless. Could be a tire rubbing, bike rocking back and forth due to wobbly wheel.

Dont know why your controllers dont work with Bafang motor, could just be single defective in any one of a few area's. You might have fried throttle components inside the controller, you could have toasted some fets that dont show any defects or smells, you could have been sold defective but dont go blaming them because you have no idea whats wrong or how they were damaged. Thats why its best to know what your doing from the get go, and do things slowly and precisely in a calm, sober state of mind.

Have you done the mosfet check for the controllers?
Checked your throttle?

Click to expand...

It seems like it is working great in the video with both motors hooked to the greentime controller but you can not hear the noise in the video. With just a little throttle it sounds fine but when I press the throttle about half way you hear a deep bass type of rumbling which is too much current or one motor is just slightly off as the resistance is slightly different as both wires are not exactly the same length. Or it could be they have different miles and wear and tear.

I was just curious if it coud be done and I was right. You can hook to identical hub motors to a single controller to test them but NOT to run them under load. It is why I ordered two 18 amp Greentime sensorless controllers but am not happy about waiting a month or longer to get them.

Also Chalo. They make many different Bafang motors. It is why I posted those pictures of the model numbers on my two motors. Are your motors the same model. It is possible Bafang changed the wires around for different models.

I would be willing to bet a decent amount of money that the sensor wires are different with my motors. I would also be willing to bet that someone knows exactly which sensor wires need to be switched.

I also would place a bet that messing with the phase wires like the guy who posted that diagram would be a terrible idea as both hub motors do work with a sensorless controller so the phase wires are correct.

I still have not heard from DA.

At this point I would be willing to send someone a free Bafang motor and sensored controller just to find out. I want to know which sensor wires need to be switched around. I guess I could build a 10S - 1P - pack for testing as that way there would be a minimal amount of current. Also as long as I do not mess with the phase wires I should not burn anything out right ?

I am not sure what to do besides waiting around forever for the Green time controllers. I guess I might as well throw out all three sensored controllers as they do not work and doubt I will have any use for them if I can not get them to work with the Bafang motors. This is very frustrating to say the least.




Yea. 36 combinations possible to make it work. That is a lot. I doubt tearing the motor apart will accomplish any thing. If there was a way to speed up shipping I would just hook up the sensorless controllers and call it a day.

I remember several months ago DA told me that the e bikeling controller would work. I hooked it up wrong the first time but was just a throttle plug I was supposed to plug in the 4 to 1 cable and not the cable directly from the controller. I hooked it correctly the second time but just got blinking lights on the display module.

I seriously doubt that damaged the controller. I know that the e bikeling controller DA recommended was the wrong controller. I have lots of proof as after I smashed that controller and the display module (80 bucks down the drain)
I cut off the 9 pin connecter wire which was NOT damaged and proceeded to hook it up to two other controllers and none of them worked.

I also used the other 9 pin wire I ordered together with the 4 to 1 cable DA. recommended and the results were the same. IT DID NOT WORK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Obviously one of those 36 possible combinations is the answer as It is not my skills that are in question. It is a simple fact at this point that the sensor wires coming out of BOTH those 9 pin connecters are WRONG !

I really want to know which wires need to be switched around. I am sick of ordering parts that I can never use. I don't want to throw away those two 17 amp controllers I got from Wish.com. I want to make them work so I can finish building the Dimond Back Outlook. Then order 2 or even 4 more Bafang motors.

I would be willing to pay the shipping to and from DAs computer store and throw an envelope with a $50 bill just to find out which hall sensor wires need to be switched around.

I just tried to call Battery Clearing House but is too late. I need to let them know that the Bafang motors they are selling only work with sensor less controllers so other folk don't waste their money on controllers that wont work without trying 36 combinations of sensor wires. I am irate. I feel like going to Wall-Mart and buying a sledge hammer and smashing the Bafang motors and cheap Chinese controllers.


Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

In case you missed it I did get both motors to work off a 1,000W greentime 35 amp controller but one of the motors started making a deep rumble noise when I got into the throttle. I did not want to damage the motors so unhooked it.

Click to expand...

Your phases are out of order.



Colours mean nothing, so if you just hooked up blue to blue, and green to green, etc. There's a fair chance that the phases are out, so you're electrically pushing against yourself.

With just 6 phase wires on a sensorless controller, there are 6 combos only. Pretty easy to connect and load test (ride) each combo.

I did not read the entire post, but if the bafang motors only work in sensorless, that means there are no hall sensors in the motor, could also mean the hall sensors are not at the right angle, or that the hall sensors are misaligned, or the hall sensors are defective.
REMEMBER - You purchased a used motor, not new thats why they were so cheap. Pretty easy to diagnose the problem. Lets see what else could it be, yes I mentioned correctly installed but defective halls, a new one you can add to the list is bad hall sensor wiring, another is damaged hall sensor wires. Even without visible damage to a wire, could still be the conductive metal has a defective void which could be caused by the manufacturer or damaged somehow after manufactured.

Sensorless is the way to go, less wiring, less messing with hall wire combinations that you do not want to do anyways.

markz said:

Sensorless is the way to go, less wiring, less messing with hall wire combinations that you do not want to do anyways.

Click to expand...

Sensorless is pretty tough to get going with those small banfang motor types. Even with a very high end controller than as a very high eRPM, the gear reduction makes it hard to get a smooth, stall free setting.

I got it working on a Mac 10T (5:1), couldn't get it working on t Q100H (12:1). Good luck with a Bafang (21:1).

Direct drive? 100% with you.

yes.

It could be damaged but the 9 pin wires coming from the motor do not look damaged so how could the sensors get damaged ?

I think at this point the only thing left to do is talk to Battery Clearing house and let them know that if they are selling these motors that their sales will most likely go up if they state to use sensor less controllers with these motors for best results.

Actually if I were Battery Clearing House I would order a bunch of sensor less controllers and sell the controllers at cost with the motors of for a modest profit.

My biggest question is are all their motors exactly the same. 350W ? or are there 250 watt , 500 watt and 750W also ?

Also I would love to know how many they sell and how many customers ran into the same issues I am with the sensor wires.

I was hoping someone here on ES could have run into the problem and solved it.

But is looks like another deal like converting a chain to belt drive. About the same thing is making a pig grow wings and fly like an Eagle. It just is NOT happening.

I see kits now where instead of a spoke sprocket there is a belt and bolts to the spokes but I am not a big fan of rag tag spoke sprockets as they have a tendency to warp the wheel over time.

I really want a belt sprocket that bolts to the freewheel or a freewheel clutch. The clutch looks stronger as bolting directly to a freewheel the sprocket is bolted to the small teeth on the freewheel sprocket. Might be ok for 1 horse power but not 2 to 4 horsepower.

The clutch screws on like a freewheel and has four holes for the bolts I think. Not sure as I never had one. Will need it to be left hand if you are running a pedal chain.

I saw that in the next 7 days the stimulus money will be in. I still would love to get a 3D printer and start printing out plastic belt sprockets that bolt to a freewheel clutch and also print out a belt wheel that will bolt to a dual D bore motor shaft and allow 8 to 1 gear reduction which is what the reduction is on my 36V - 3,000W chain drive.

However without hands on help and a software tutor to design the software to print I am just whistling Dixie in the dark with my thumb where the sun don't shine.

Basically I do not see it happening. Also even if I did manage to print those parts out in plastic how much would it cost to have them metal printed ???????

I guess my only option is ordering the $60 kit that has the spoke sprocket and then call a bunch of machine shops and find one that can custom build a pully wheel for a belt that will bolt to a dual D bore 10mm shaft.

It sounds like a great idea but a huge waste of time. Just like the Bafang motors. I guess it is why gas bike conversions are way more popular around here than electric.

I am thoroughly disgusted with e bikes and forums at this time. It is frustrating to say the least.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

I am thoroughly disgusted with e bikes and forums at this time. It is frustrating to say the least.

Click to expand...

If you don't want to take advice, then why would anyone bother giving it? I posted a flow diagram that it isn't possible to need to test more than 4 combinations. And you already have a starting position that limits you to 3 of them.

latecurtis said:

I was hoping someone here on ES could have run into the problem and solved it.

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Almost everyone on this forum that built their own bike using a controller and motor from different suppliers would have run into the problem. Even buying from the same seller has no guarantee. And you know what? All of us have solved it. But you don't want to listen, so you get frustrated.

If this keeps up, I'll start wondering why I keep coming back. The forums have been good to me, especially people like Amberwolf and LFP, who answer the really technical questions, and I want to pay it forward to other members who need help I can give, but damn, there's limits to everyone's patience. You've hit a lot of other member's already, but soon, DA will be the only one left and living up to his name, because he has the patience of an Angel.

You can also print eBike parts in plastic that stay plastic.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3866359

Have a look at that build.

Yes, my own experience is only with direct drive motors using sensorless controllers.
MXUS 45H 3kw and Leaf 1500W 35H and only with 2 or 3 different new controllers from EVFitting Greentime on Aliexpress that I actually have used on those motors. Stock controllers, no mods. Stock Leaf but new phase wires on the mxus. One thing I remember ES member icecube57 talking about is how he just used larger diameter wire from the exit of the axle to the controller, using stock wires from motor phase wires to exit of axle. And so I never felt any hesitation of any sort getting the motors going, now yes if I was at a stand still, and didnt have enough forward movement sometimes it would stutter but get moving, but the rare time it would stop but it was very minimal amount of forward movement for me to get going. Could be that those motors have more pole counts, more magnets, or the back emf was stronger but I am just throwing darts as to why. But yeah Small geared bafang vs large direct drive.

Sunder said:

Direct drive? 100% with you.

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Almost everyone on this forum that built their own bike using a controller and motor from different suppliers would have run into the problem. Even buying from the same seller has no guarantee. And you know what? All of us have solved it. But you don't want to listen, so you get frustrated.

Click to expand...

It is not that.

I guess I am mostly frustrated with slow shipping. It is not as much about the money but wish I just ordered the sensor less controllers the first time about 6 months ago now.

I ordered an e bikeling controller first and then when that came had to order the display and special wires which was at least a month so that was about 90 days total at least I waited. After that failed I ordered those controllers from wish which was about 6 weeks also.

Now I have to wait another 6 weeks. I should have just ordered two 18 amp greentime controllers as soon as I got the Bafang motors or even awhile I was waiting for the motors.

If you don't want to take advice, then why would anyone bother giving it? I posted a flow diagram that it isn't possible to need to test more than 4 combinations. And you already have a starting position that limits you to 3 of them.

Click to expand...

I need to go back and look. I missed that.

I guess if it is safe for the motor to go switching around sensor wires I could try it. I just need to build a 10S - 1P pack for such testing .

As far as belt drive conversions I think about 80% of chain drive builds could benefit from the conversion. A really short chain drive may even be better than a belt drive like what I have in mind for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor but the longer the chain the better performance switching to belt drive can give. My front chain build on the 26" dual suspension has a long chain and an absolutely perfect example of how a belt conversion would be a totally awesome upgrade. If I were capable of accomplishing it.

My frustration is due to my limitations. Not this forum. I just would love to discover something I can do that is worthwhile like a niche. Belt drive and 3D printing is greatly desirable. But need more help setting it up than may be possible to get. Not sure.

It is not anyone's fault here on ES. I just did not know about sensor less controllers until I was told about it here. If I knew 6 months ago or when I got the Bafang motors it could have saved me lots of money and time. But who knew ? It is not anyone's fault and apologize. I am just frustrated I have to wait another 6 weeks on the 18 amp sensor less controllers.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

I guess if it is safe for the motor to go switching around sensor wires I could try it. I just need to build a 10S - 1P pack for such testing .

Click to expand...

Go through the flow chart previously posted, methodically and carefully, and you will find the correct combinations. What order works for one controller will not necessarily be correct for another. The motor will not know any different once you have the sensor signals correctly aligned with each phase.

This might be a useful article.
https://www.electricbike.com/connectors-halls-throttle-motor/

Why wouldnt it be safe to change around phase wires or hall wires?

Oh hold on just a second, I've seen you wiring jobs.

On the other hand, if you have some easy to disconnect bullet connectors that were properly installed with protective elements whether stock or heat shrink then sure it'd be safe. Flip-side to that would be alligator jumper wires that could touch and pop a fet, if ye forget your trustworthy electrical tape for added protection on exposed alligator clips. Yeah surely you know when the text is blue that text links you to a website right. Its a whole other story if those links survive the test of time or end up a linked dud.

But who knew ?

Click to expand...

Well you opened your ES account in 2014 and I dont know how active you were because I joined around the same time. My first controller was a 18fet Lyen sensored only. It was a pain at first to get the right combination, but I learned of sensorless quickly but I wasnt used to ebay or amazon or aliexpress/alibaba so I wanted to purchase from reputable sellers so the motor came straight from the factory in China. Looking back on things, I should not have cheaped out because that would have saved me a lot of money.

latecurtis said:

It has to be the sensor wires are wrong.

Click to expand...

They are not. These motors were all removed from working Jump bikes. In my experience, they all plug into controllers that also have 9 pin connectors and they run without problems.

If you're not using that kind of controller, it's up to you to get the wire assignments right.

Here is a good video on 2wd

[youtube]Ub4EP2_mAds[/youtube]

Well I guess I just have to find out then.

I know both motors will work with a sensorless controller. It is why I ordered two more Greentime controllers but 18 amps instead of 35 amps as 35 amps is for a 1,000W motor. NOT 350 watt motors.

The thing I am NOT doing is messing with the three phase wires as I know they are right as they would not have worked with the sensorless controller.

That leaves the 5 possible combinations. What I was complaining about was the 36 combinations. I will not change the phase wires then. Just the blue , green and yellow wires.

If it were a sensor burned out would it work with a sensorless controller ?

That I do not really know as I don't even know what a sensor does to be exact. I do not understand how a motor works with a sensorless controller.

Without X ray vision I do not know what color wire goes to each pin from the motor.

My first thought when I got these hub motors was to just cut off the 9 pin connecter coming from the motor and solder wires to them. If I did that perhaps the motors would be working now.

I guess I could do that but what if all the wires inside are the same color or colors that do not match at all. At least I know what the 3 phase wires are with the 9 pin connecter so I may as well test the 5 combinations.

It makes more sense it is the wires coming from the motor going to the plug are wrong than bad sensors in both motors.

I like the post SUNDER posted about the guy who printed plastic parts for a build. I guess if done right a plastic printed part can be durable and hold up. I hope he will let me know what models of 3D printers will print quality parts and what is the best free software to get started with.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

The thing I am NOT doing is messing with the three phase wires as I know they are right as they would not have worked with the sensorless controller.

Click to expand...

You're not getting it. There is no "right" phase wiring, there's only what makes the motor and controller agree with each other. A sensorless controller uses feedback from the motor to configure the controller. A sensored controller doesn't; you have to find the right combo. A teachable sensored controller can be put in a mode where it tries different things and you let it know when it's right.

Bottom line is, the phase wire assignment you've been using might well be all wrong for the sensored controllers you've used.

latecurtis said:

download (6).png

The thing I am NOT doing is messing with the three phase wires as I know they are right as they would not have worked with the sensorless controller.

Click to expand...

How do you know that the phase wires of your sensorless controller matches those of the sensored one? Let me guess... the colour of the wires?

Just FYI a sensorless controller should work with phases connected in any order.

The motor windings run in a certain order in a circle. Draw a circle and mark three points on the circumference 120 degrees apart. It does not matter where you start, there will be three orders that move you one direction around the circle, and three that move you the other direction around. A working order is just making sure the phases run in order. For three phases swapping any two phases just changes the order to the opposite direction.

For sensored controllers all that needs to happen is the phases are lined up with the sensors that correspond to each phase. That’s why there are multiple combinations that will work.

The motor windings run in a certain order in a circle. Draw a circle and mark three points on the circumference 120 degrees apart. It does not matter where you start, there will be three orders that move you one direction around the circle, and three that move you the other direction around. A working order is just making sure the phases run in order. For three phases swapping any two phases just changes the order to the opposite direction.

For sensored controllers all that needs to happen is the phases are lined up with the sensors that correspond to each phase. That’s why there are multiple combinations that will work.

Click to expand...

Did you see the video I posted.

It shows the direction of the wheel is correct so that should mean the phase wires are also correct right ?

I really want to have as much information before I start switching wires around and if I can rule out the 3 phase wires then there is only 6 combinations to get it working.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPRDIYdd8AI


That was the result with both wheels. One just turned a little more than the other. no wires were switched and the plug from the controller was plugged into the plug coming from the 9 pin motor extension wire. I tried both wires. The one I bought and the one I cut off the e bikeling controller I smashed.

I am hooking up wires now for a test. I am using the solderless connecters DA. posted a link to awhile back and I ordered them. They are a little too big for the 18 gauge wire so I made sure the wires are wrapped around each other so they can't come apart easily. I want to make sure there are no loose connections so that can be ruled out. I have shrink tube to go over that also.

I am using spade connecters for power. as if I cant get it working it will be easy to unhook and hook to the sensorless controller when it shows up. If it works then I will use the solderless connecters to connect all the wires to the controller permanently.

If you watch that video perhaps you will know if the 6 possible combinations could work and rule out the phase wires as the wheel is turning the correct direction. In fact it appears like the motor wants to work so could/should be one of the 6 combinations or 5 as it was already hooked up with all color coded wires matching.

I am almost done with the cable. All phase wires are separate and can't get mixed up as they have small bullets that fit perfect in the three connecters coming from the controller. I am putting color coded tape around the ends where the wire goes in just to make sure they do not come loose. I crimped down on them tight and thoroughly but I am still using color coded tape just to make sure.

I also used the solderless connecters for the phase wires. Not just the sensor wires I did tonight. I just wrapped color coded tape around them also.

Blacklite. Please watch the video and provide some feedback if you can. I would like to know which wires you would try first and why. I will wait until tomorrow night for the test.

Thanks.

LC. out.

latecurtis said:

My biggest question is are all their motors exactly the same. 350W ? or are there 250 watt , 500 watt and 750W also ?

Also I would love to know how many they sell and how many customers ran into the same issues I am with the sensor wires.

I was hoping someone here on ES could have run into the problem and solved it.

But is looks like another deal like converting a chain to belt drive. About the same thing is making a pig grow wings and fly like an Eagle. It just is NOT happening.

Click to expand...

There seem to be quite a few reporting recent success or in the middle of achieving it with the 500W versions Jehu is selling from salvaged Uber JumpBike rentals.

Seems to require wire swapping as the key.

They have solved it without the griping and complaining, many of them less capable than you!

You may be asking too much, to hope that they will see your post and be interested enough to read thru 300 pages, especially with the title "new eZip motor" which has nothing to do with a Bafang hub motor, at least in a direct way. If they are not interested in the "new eZip motor" they are probably not reading this and able to respond to your requests, can you see that?

So YOU will have to venture out into the ES wilds and do some searches on the Bafang hub motor and see what the recent posts have to offer. Might be an easy solution there. :thumb:

PS: Do my posts help you at all? Please let me know. Otherwise I will be happy to stop wasting my efforts.

I never cared for ezip but ventured into this thread because it was deep into the 250 pages and I wondered why that was.
Then I realized that the thread has nothing to do with ezip and I mentioned it in my first post in this thread. Then I wanted to help.

I am afraid that many feel as your last sentence in the quote below.

I've mentioned the quagmire before, having so much posted and little substinence. But the good news is there people that want to help. Its just it takes a little more then just posting. It takes doing searches on ES, and other forums, whats called research which takes effort. Its to easy to just post up whats 1+1 and wait for someone to answer, and not make any effort. The example given would be the phase/wire configuration flow chart.

Yes I saw the video, first step would be combo of wires.

99t4 said:

You may be asking too much, to hope that they will see your post and be interested enough to read thru 300 pages, especially with the title "new eZip motor" which has nothing to do with a Bafang hub motor, at least in a direct way.

PS: Do my posts help you at all? Please let me know. Otherwise I will be happy to stop wasting my efforts.

Click to expand...

latecurtis said:

It shows the direction of the wheel is correct so that should mean the phase wires are also correct right ?

Click to expand...

Did you read what I wrote? It means nothing as for a sensored controller it is the combination of phase wire order lining up with the sensors.

Is there a reason you can’t just do what people have been saying for posts upon posts and follow the posted flowchart until you find a correct combination? Or is it just the Dunning–Kruger effect...

Also, repeatedly referencing smashing a piece of equipment because you were unable to use it correctly perhaps doesn’t give the impression you obviously think it does

Did you read what I wrote? It means nothing as for a sensored controller it is the combination of phase wire order lining up with the sensors.

Click to expand...

OK.

I want to get this straight. All the facts. Please tell me if I am wrong here.

1.) So we are still looking at 36 possible combinations ?

2.) The 9 pin wires (female) which both plug in TO the 9 pin from the motor (male) and are color coded on the other end and match the wires from the controller are different and a mismatch from the wires inside the 9 pin motor wire ?

If both those statements are true than

3) if I cut off the 9 pin plug coming from the motor I could match all the wires up and NOT have to try 36 possible combinations ?

It once was said that often your first thought on something is the right choice.

As soon as I looked at those plugs I wanted to cut them off. I did not because I knew if they did not work I could not return them : But since they do work with a sensorless controller I wont need to return them so can cut off the plug and hook everything up.

It still don't answer my question about why two 9 pin cables that plug in to a 9 pin motor wire don't match up. is it because Bafang is not the only manufacturer who makes 9 pin motors ?

When I ordered the e bikeling controller and the 9 pin motor extension wire I was under the impression they were compatible with the 9 pin motor wire coming from the Bafang motors. That is where my anger and frustration on this matter originates from. It just really don't make any sense to me at all. Bafang products have been out a long time.

What I am saying is that if they are selling 9 pin motor extension wires and controllers with 9 pin cables that do NOT match up with the Bafang motors 9 pin plug they should either STATE IT so anyone who orders it knows or BE BLASTED IN THE FACE REPEADATLLY. F THEM for doing such a thing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will get to the bottom of this. Somebody might just get their ass kicked. Nobody on ES but who made those wires if I find out that is the cause and I can physically get to them. Fat chance. :lol: I doubt they were made in Ohio but it just isn't right and they should at least be informed and made to address it correctly. It is just not right in any way. It is shady business to say the least.

I get sick and tired of being put down or made to look stupid due to the incompetence , Negligence and greed of other people to make a dollar at other peoples expense.

If I am spending money on a controller and wires that are physically compatible ( 9 pin plugs ) and they are wrong then it is false advertising and basically a scam. It is the same as stealing unless they make it clear that it is not compatible with Bafang products.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HFrACMSy5-w

It looks like the wires in Bafang motors are color coded.

I will get to the bottom of this when I get up. The plugs are coming off

google guided me to the link.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=58451

It still seems simpler to just cut the damm plug off and break out a solder iron. :lol:

Nothing to lose as if sensors are toast which might be Greentine will save the day someday. Not any time soon though. Was at least 5 weeks for first Greentime sensorless controller.

I don't have enough solderless connecters I don't think. Time to buy some flux and shrink tube at Auto zone.

Time to stop screwing around and get this thing running.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Just follow the flowchart and you will not have to test all 36 possible combinations. You will only have to switch around a few wires following a known methodology until it runs.

If you spent the time it took to write even one of your ranting and ridiculous posts posts doing what so many people have suggested you would have had a working motor after about 10 minutes.

I give up.

Just follow the flowchart and you will not have to test all 36 possible combinations. You will only have to switch around a few wires following a known methodology until it runs.

If you spent the time it took to write even one of your ranting and ridiculous posts posts doing what so many people have suggested you would have had a working motor after about 10 minutes.

I give up.

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Sorry to hear that.

I can not agree with you. I have a different idea.

At this point it won't matter as I have 3 sensorless controllers on the way.

I just want these two motors tested under load.

I will just hook it up now and if it still dont work then I know the sensors themselves are bad. NOT the wires.

That has to be established and since I am not superman with x ray vision those motor wire plugs have to go.

I should have done that as soon as I took them out of the shipping box.

Ever hear of the KISS method.

Keep it simple stupid.

Guessing what the wires are beneath the insulation of a cable is stupid.

That would be the first advice I would give to anyone from now on. If the cable from a hub motor is a 9 pin. Treat it like a zombie attacking you and cut its head completely off. That goes for everyone here on ES or who you meet on the street. It will save a lot of time and money.

In fact I called Battery Clearinghouse and left a message. I did not get rude with them. I got answering machine so e mailed them.



If I get these going under load and they work good I will order 4 more for $160.

I only have 4 solderless connecters left so need to find flux and shrink tubes. Might take awhile as looking at sleeping until 5 or 6 PM now.

I build e bikes. it is what I do and I really don't do much else at all. I am a lazy alcoholic. Drunk as a skunk.

Thanks.

LC. out.

Got enough 36V batteries? 36V 14Ah! got 6 @ $55 each delivered.