new eZip motor

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 06 2021 7:53am

OK.

It still does not explain why two days ago I hooked up the other motor the same exact way and it worked. The motors have the same exact model numbers. Just different serial numbers. The same thing for the controllers. They are identical yet one motor worked perfect and the other did what it did in that video.

Thanks for posting.

I am just frustrated. I spent so many hours trying to make it work. Way too much time. I make sure my connections are perfect. I built a battery rack which also mounted the controllers.

But I failed miserably. It just sucks.

The rear motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEpbSALSqWI


The front motor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPRDIYdd8AI

Thanks.

LC. out.
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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DAND214 » Apr 06 2021 1:24pm

Have you tried switching the phase wires to get rotation.
Maybe halls.
Never switch red and black!!!

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 2:04pm

Your video shows that the rear motor is ok, but front motor sputters.
They are both on a sensorless controller?

Next: Swap controllers and see if front motor sputters.

A+ on the color coordinated electrical tape matching the wire colors. :thumb:

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 06 2021 3:02pm

Your video shows that the rear motor is ok, but front motor sputters.
They are both on a sensorless controller?

Next: Swap controllers and see if front motor sputters.

A+ on the color coordinated electrical tape matching the wire colors. :thumb:
I am still waiting on those sensorless controllers.

I got both of those 17 amp controllers from Wish.com. All the sensor wires are hooked up.

I just don't know why one works and the other don't. Several members keep saying to switch sensor wires around.

However one motor worked perfect in that one video. The other video shows the other motor sputtering.

Both motors are exactly the same. Both controllers are also identical. So I see no reason to switch wires around.

The thing that don't makes sense is why one motor does not work , but one does.

It even gets more weird than that. Before the video where the one motor worked I tested it on the same exact controller and both motors sputtered like in the second video. It took several attempts before the video where it actually worked.

Loose wires inside the motor seem like the cause. loose sensor wires.

The way I see it is I have two choices.

1. Try to run both motors with sensor less controllers.

2. Tear both motors apart.

I guess I could try and put the working motor (if it still works) on the Currie and take the other motor apart and try and repair the sensor wires. The problem with that idea is the motor that worked in the video is on the back of the DimondBack for a reason. Because it is way out of true. I had the bike shop true the motor on the front before I tested it.

I have just had no luck at all with those Bafang motors and defiantly will never order any more.

Going to see if they will work with the sensorless controllers when I get them. It seems like the only option or at least the first choice. If they wont work good then the only other option is tearing them apart. At least the motor that sputters and the other motor if it stops working. They both sputtered like that when I first hooked them up.

Before that they were completely dead until I hooked them up to the 35 amp Greentime sensorless controller. The controller I ordered for the 26" - 1,000 watt direct drive. Too many amps for Bafang motors. For those of you that missed that I hooked both motors to the sensorless Greentime controller and would have run them but I heard a noise I did not like. An internal deep rumbling sound so unhooked them. I only heard it when I got into the throttle testing them. I still have not ran it under load.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT1XkGcbWxc&t=5s

It seems like only a short in one of the sensor wires would cause the sputtering as only one works sometimes with a sensorsed controller but both worked sensorless with the three phase wires in parallel. Only a short in one of the sensor wires could cause that ????????????? Of a sensor going bad but not sure if they go bad and still work sometimes or never work again ??????????? I just do not know.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.
Last edited by latecurtis on Apr 06 2021 6:30pm, edited 2 times in total.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 6:14pm

Its been said, and it will continue to be said....

The motor that is sputtering has the wrong combination of hall and phase wires. Switch them around, as described by several people and it will work.

Without switching the wires around, nothing will be fixed.
Several members keep saying to switch sensor wires around.

However one motor worked perfect in that one video. The other video shows the other motor sputtering.

Both motors are exactly the same. Both controllers are also identical. So I see no reason to switch wires around.

The thing that don't makes sense is why one motor does not work , but one does.

-------------------------------------------------------

First do the combination of wires.

Damaged wires inside the motor - Could be, but thats easy to figure out. Open the motor and see if any wires have been damaged. Then take some zip ties or your trusted electrical tape and make 110% sure the wires are out of the way. Then when you put the cover plates back on, be sure you dont damage the wires on wire exit side.

Have to do everything methodical
Think about what your doing
Be methodical
Think, Think, Think :wink:
First Things First :wink:

Loose wires inside the motor seem like the cause. loose sensor wires.

-------------------------------------------------------

You need to take a few hours out of your busy day, sit down and have a 1 on 1 with your ebike.
Gosh I hate to say YOU YOU YOU but I'm gunna.
Then you need to focus on the sputtering motor. Change the wires around in a methodical and organized way. Follow the flow chart.
Keep trying, try try again.

Next, keep trying!

Next step, open the motor and look for damaged wires inside.
Smell the motor with its cover plates off, look at the windings, are they dark (cooked motor) or bright (normal motor).
If its a geared motor, look at the gears are their any broken off.
Again, make sure 110% the wires are out of the way.
Put cover plates back on, being sure not to damage the wires coming out of the axle.

Next, wait for the sensorless controllers.

The way I see it is I have two choices.

1. Try to run both motors with sensor less controllers.

2. Tear both motors apart.

I guess I could try and put the working motor (if it still works) on the Currie and take the other motor apart and try and repair the sensor wires.

Trying to see if they will work with the sensorless controllers seems like the only option or at least the first choice.


-------------------------------------------------------

If when the sensorless controllers come, and you've hooked up the throttle, then connected the phase wires and you've connected the learn function wires. Then you just need to flick the throttle for a second to change the direction the wheel spins. If after that the motor still sputters, throw the motor out. But the motor spins freely, so sputtering is a controller issue, and sensorless just uses the phase wires, and monitors the phase wires to trigger the pulses. It'll work fine. The key is to A) change wires for right combo B) open motor, inspect, wire management protection, close motor. C) Inspect wires that exit the axle. D) Make 110% sure the solder joint of the winding wire to phase wires inside the motor are protected. E) Make sure the winding wire visible has no knicks in the enamel F) You could measure the phase to phase resistance

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 06 2021 6:54pm

Without switching the wires around, nothing will be fixed.
NO.

The controller in the video with just the back wheel spinning was sensored and had the sensor wires hooked up so if the wires were different it would have been impossible.

The controllers and motors are identical. Same models. Everything. Therefore switching wires should be ruled out. It could only cause possible damage to something.
Next step, open the motor and look for damaged wires inside.
Smell the motor with its cover plates off, look at the windings, are they dark (cooked motor) or bright (normal motor).
If its a geared motor, look at the gears are their any broken off.
Again, make sure 110% the wires are out of the way.
Put cover plates back on, being sure not to damage the wires coming out of the axle.

The last time I had a hub motor apart was a nightmare. I broke off cover bolts and could not drill them out. I had to drill at an angle to replace two broken bolts with one in the center. I posted all that awhile ago. I ended up having to RE solder broken sensor wires getting the cover back on. I was soldering at least 20 times as was soldering inside the motor as well as outside to fix broken connections.

Then I ran out of flux. :roll:

It took me about two weeks just to get to a place that even sells flux. I also ran out of the solderless connecters I ordered DA. posted.

I did find flux at a hardware store called True value. Home Depot is a long ways away and Wall - Mart does not carry it.

The problem is the flux I bought at True value was plumbing flux. It looks a lot different. It definatlly don't work for wires. Not at all. It is only for pipes I guess. There was no flux at all in their electrical section. When I got home I tried to solder those wires and failed miserably.

Pieces of solder just broke off and hit the floor like little BBS. I basically am lucky if I got a drop or two on those wires and none on most. I had to spend 9 hours cutting thin pieces of electrical tape and wrapping meticulously around each wire and then basically constructed my own wiring harness using gorilla tape in thin strips and then thin strips of black electric tape over that and zip tying it to the frame.
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Before I could tape them I had to use rubbing Alcohol and clean all that slippery flux off the wires and let them dry in front of a fan. I am completely finished trying to solder anything. I will however order a lot more of those solderless connecters but in different sizes. Not only that but I need much better connecters if I am to hook up sensor wires again. Hopefully I will not have to but a link for real simple and reliable crimp on connecters would be great.

Do they make smaller bullets that are as good as 4 mm for like 22 gauge wire ? I have a few I used for the three phase wires that plug in nice and firmly to the plugs coming from those controllers. However the female connecters my little male bullets are supposed to plug into are horrible. They just fall out unless I crimp down on the female connecter and then it is an oval shape and still don't fit as well as 4mm bullets.

After all that work all I have to show for it is a sputtering motor. JUNK !

I think I will skip all that and wait on the sensorless controllers. It just makes a lot more sense. I will order better connecters for smaller wire though just in case I do get a controller with sensor wires to work. I have three sensorless controllers on the way but any of them will work sensored. They all are dual mode.

If all that wont work then will consider rebuilding them if possible. They sell a lot of rebuild kits on the internet so can have a brand new motor basically and that should solve the problem. I will need to watch a lot of videos before I try though.

If I cant get them apart without breaking something like before I would rather just send them to someone who can fix them and just pay them for their trouble. If it is more money than its worth I can just give them away for parts or toss them in the dumpster.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 7:48pm

Maybe someone else can chime in to debunk me or reinforce and emphasis to Curtis what needs to be done.

You got it wrong Curtis. Its obvious the wires need changing to get the correct combination. Its so easy to do! I don't see why your so hesitant to change the wire combination.

The color of wires could very easily be different from one controller to the exact same other. Just because a wire is blue DOES NOT match that the BLUE wire is ALWAYS phase A on the pcb inside the controller. The assembly line worker in China only cares about total output per hour to keep their job, they do not care about matching a blue wire to phase a on pcb.

Start with wire combinations.

Do the easiest thing first.

Hopefully the sensorless controllers come soon.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 7:59pm

Before I could tape them I had to use rubbing Alcohol and clean all that slippery flux off the wires and let them dry in front of a fan. I am completely finished trying to solder anything. I will however order a lot more of those solderless connecters but in different sizes. Not only that but I need much better connecters if I am to hook up sensor wires again. Hopefully I will not have to but a link for real simple and reliable crimp on connecters would be great.

Soldering is pretty easy and cheap. The other option is your solderless connectors. Those heat shrink with solder inside them. Mechanical connections require mechanical connectors and the crimp tool, but that all costs money and you need to wait for it to arrive.

Do they make smaller bullets that are as good as 4 mm for like 22 gauge wire ? I have a few I used for the three phase wires that plug in nice and firmly to the plugs coming from those controllers. However the female connecters my little male bullets are supposed to plug into are horrible. They just fall out unless I crimp down on the female connecter and then it is an oval shape and still don't fit as well as 4mm bullets.

Yes, there are 2mm bullets, very small. Be harder to solder wires to them. Hopefully someone will sell them with 10cm of wire already soldered onto the connector. Look at Hobbyking website, go to youtube and see how its done. Also, I dont know what the problem is your having. Probably that your technique in soldering is quite poor. A poor solder joint is a poor solder joint. Need lots of heat, and solder with a flux core inside the solder, very common.Also having the proper size solder, to thin and your always added more and more solder because the solder diameter is to thin. On the flipside having to large diameter solder and you can very easily add to much solder and ruin a bullet connector very easy. I'd go look and see what diameter solder I use but its packed away and I just eat some cake. :oops:

After all that work all I have to show for it is a sputtering motor. JUNK !

yes, all that work and sputter. I doubt its junk, but one mans junk is another mans score. Yeah so we told you what can be done.

I think I will skip all that and wait on the sensorless controllers. It just makes a lot more sense. I will order better connecters for smaller wire though just in case I do get a controller with sensor wires to work. I have three sensorless controllers on the way but any of them will work sensored. They all are dual mode.

Yes, I think thats the best course of action for you. Wait for the sensorless controllers. Yeah you can order small wire, smaller bullet connectors but if you cant solder them then whats the point. The smaller the connector the hard it is to solder. You can look for and buy a 3rd arm with alligator clips to help hold the wire and connector to solder.

If all that wont work then will consider rebuilding them if possible. They sell a lot of rebuild kits on the internet so can have a brand new motor basically and that should solve the problem. I will need to watch a lot of videos before I try though.

Rebuild what? Rewinding motors is tough, also winding wire aint cheap and how do you know what gauge winding wire to use and what turn count of motor do you want. Yeah well you will not only have to watch lots of video's but also retain the info, and act upon that info.

If I cant get them apart without breaking something like before I would rather just send them to someone who can fix them and just pay them for their trouble. If it is more money than its worth I can just give them away for parts or toss them in the dumpster.

Yeah someone will take those motors for free, and they may pay shipping if its cheap. Shipping just bare motors is cheaper. Maybe someone local will take your motor, or toss them in the dumpster without taking the time to troubleshoot or change wire combinations. But I think sensorless controllers will work for you so just wait.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DrkAngel » Apr 06 2021 9:07pm

latecurtis wrote:
Apr 06 2021 6:54pm

The problem is the flux I bought at True value was plumbing flux. It looks a lot different. It definatlly don't work for wires. Not at all. It is only for pipes I guess. There was no flux at all in their electrical section. When I got home I tried to solder those wires and failed miserably.

Pieces of solder just broke off and hit the floor like little BBS. I basically am lucky if I got a drop or two on those wires and none on most. I had to spend 9 hours cutting thin pieces of electrical tape and wrapping meticulously around each wire and then basically constructed my own wiring harness using gorilla tape in thin strips and then thin strips of black electric tape over that and zip tying it to the frame.
Sounds like your soldering iron is way to hot!
(Above 400°C, lead evaporates as a toxic vapor, leaving hard tin)
Burnt tip won't collect solder, just melts and drips?
Plumbing flux works just fine for electronics!
I repeat ... again! - New heavy (unburnt) tip, heat to 350°C, dip in flux, coat (tin) with "60/40 rosin core" solder. Solder should flow easily onto tip.


"The problem is that lead starts to vaporize when heated over 752 degrees F, (400 degrees C), and you can end up breathing in the poisonous fumes. A HEPA respirator(CK) and copious ventilation, should keep you safe."

Make sure you didn't get stuck with "lead free" solder!
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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 9:18pm

60/40 or 63/37 flux-cored solder, then choose the solder diameter size.
To thin = working the solder more to get more solder onto the wire.
To thick = to easy to add to much solder to the wire.
Do not breath the fumes, a great way to get a portable fan is to get a small computer case fan and hook it up to a 12V battery, or 9V square D battery to blow the fumes away from you.
Solder tip care would be a good video to watch on youtube.
I find that I cant go wrong with a cheap 60W iron. But dont go by the wattage because a good 40W iron can outdo a cheap 60W iron.

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 06 2021 10:05pm

60/40 or 63/37 flux-cored solder, then choose the solder diameter size.
To thin = working the solder more to get more solder onto the wire.
To thick = to easy to add to much solder to the wire.
Do not breath the fumes, a great way to get a portable fan is to get a small computer case fan and hook it up to a 12V battery, or 9V square D battery to blow the fumes away from you.
Solder tip care would be a good video to watch on youtube.
I find that I cant go wrong with a cheap 60W iron. But dont go by the wattage because a good 40W iron can outdo a cheap 60W iron.

Yea.

I would rather order more of those solderless connecters. Also small bullets if I can find good ones. I do not like the cheap spade connecters.

I wish I knew what I am doing with 8 brushless controllers when only one Bafang hub motor might work.

The 35 Amp Greentime is a spare for the 26" direct drive but have a Wish controller and two more Greentime sensorless and a 12 amp sensorless and two brushless controllers DAN sent awhile ago Not being used. Hopefully one of the 18 amp Greentime controllers will make that front hub motor work. Than leaves Five brushless controllers with nothing to hook up to.

I guess I could try the Bafang hub motor on the back of the Dimondback and test it under load. I wanted two controllers and hub motors with a single throttle but not sure if possible running different controllers. One sensored and the other sensorless.

The soonest the two Greentime controllers are scheduled for delivery is April 19. Almost two weeks away. The 12 amp is scheduled for the middle of May. That is good for testing.

I wish I had another source for cheap hub motors for all those controllers just sitting around.
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That is the same model number G020 but mine are silver and FM - G020. $230 is not cheap. I wonder if anyone rebuilds them and how much. That is also 700c. Mine are 26".

I still want a 3D printer. I really want to convert the chain drive on the front of the 26" dual suspension to belt drive. Also the Currie would run better as that has a long chain.

The last I checked no Stimulus money yet.
Thanks

LC. out.
Last edited by latecurtis on Apr 06 2021 10:38pm, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: new eZip motor

Post by Blacklite » Apr 06 2021 10:35pm

markz wrote:
Apr 06 2021 7:48pm
Maybe someone else can chime in to debunk me or reinforce and emphasis to Curtis what needs to be done.

You got it wrong Curtis. Its obvious the wires need changing to get the correct combination. Its so easy to do! I don't see why your so hesitant to change the wire combination.

Start with wire combinations.

Do the easiest thing first.
I've tried. I don't understand why he won't just try. It can't be just because he thinks he knows better - if it was then surely he'd try just to show everyone he was right.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 11:01pm

Not sure why Blacklite
No risk
No reward
Probably to much work. Like its to much work for me to sweep the garage floor.

Nothing is on TV so one last time.

Wire colors are meaningless. Mark each of the motor and controller phase wires as A, B and C, then mark each of the controller and motor hall wire 1, 2 and 3.

HOWEVER, I got an even more BADASS way of doing it.
- Go out and buy yellow, green and blue electrical tape, then you wont have to write anything on no tape. :thumb:
- Randomly place the colors on each wire. One blue on one controller phase wire and one blue on one motor phase wire.

Use tape on the wire to make a flap or flag. Method 1, you write on the tape with a sharpie making sure its clear and visible and wont rub off. Or Method 2, yellow, green and blue electrical tape so no writing needed.

Like the black and white things on the wire in this pic. Then follow the flow chart, so simple, so easy. Heck, I've even done it where I just twisted the wires together and taped the exposed wire so nothing would touch and I wouldnt pop the fets in the controller.
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Blacklite wrote:
Apr 06 2021 10:35pm
I've tried. I don't understand why he won't just try. It can't be just because he thinks he knows better - if it was then surely he'd try just to show everyone he was right.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by DAND214 » Apr 06 2021 11:08pm

Markz is right, just as I said before on swap wires.
You can put any amp controller to test and even ride it as long as you pedal starts and not full throttle.
Once again just to test!

Dan

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 06 2021 11:13pm

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEpbSALSqWI

You guys are frocking with me right ????

Or is it you did not watch the video that I posted several times now.
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When I cut the 9 pin male connecter off I extended each wire. Phase and sensor. I placed colored tape so I did not mis match them. NOTHING needed to be switched. NOT a thing.

I am good wirh windows paint and have a video capture device.

BOTH motors have the same EXACT model #. FM - G020. BOTH controllers are exactly the same.

WHY would I need to switch wires around when one of the motors worked perfectly in that video ???????

If it worked that means all the wires are right.

IF the same exact model motor and controller hooked up the same exact way then it should work unless the sensors need replacement , there is a loose wire or one of the controllers is defective. Yet BOTH of the motors sputtered before telling me there could be loose wires in BOTH motors or sensors going bad because BOTH motors worked sensor less.

I just shot another video showing all sensor as well as phase , power and throttle hooked up and it works perfect.

It could be the other controller is bad. I will have to unplug all the connecters from the other controller and the controller in the new video and plug the phase and sensor wires into the controller I know is working. The video is uploading.

Thanks.

LC. out.
Last edited by latecurtis on Apr 06 2021 11:57pm, edited 1 time in total.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 11:27pm

latecurtis wrote:
Apr 06 2021 11:13pm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEpbSALSqWI

You guys are frocking with me right ????

NO WE ARE NOT frocking WITH YOU! The sound on the rear motor sounds right. I see you moving the throttle a tiny bit from full throttle. We see the rear tire is a tad off true but I've ridden a lot worse true wheels the that. Oh I thought you were going to also show the front motor stuttering/sputtering as you did in the other post..

Or is it you did not watch the video that I posted several times now.

Yes, we've watched the videos. The video you posted just shows rear motor, the other post you posted showed in the video the front motor sputtering.

Untitled 1_mpeg1video_0001.jpgUntitled 1_mpeg1video_0002.jpgUntitled 1_mpeg1video_0003.jpg

When I cut the 9 pin male connecter off I extended each wire. Phase and sensor. I placed colored tape so I did not mis match them. NOTHING needed to be switched. NOT a thing.

We are telling you that you may have lucked out on the rear motor working, but dont trust 100% that the properly working rear motor and controller wire color combo pattern is the same as the front. That is just a big mistake to assume.


BOTH motors have the same EXACT model #. FM - G020. BOTH controllers are exactly the same.

We've mentioned that it does not matter. There are sometimes errors in production line assembly, more so in high volume, cheap motors and controllers. Then when you buy a used motor, someone could have swapped in pink, neon orange and light brown for phase wires, and turqoise blue, white and pink for hall sensor wires. Just thank god they did not use black or red for hall sensor wires because halls need red power and black ground, that would be quite the dillema wouldnt it.

WHY would I need to switch wires around when one of the motors worked perfectly in that video ???????

Switch the wires around ONLY ON THE ONE MOTOR THAT DOES NOT WORK PROPERLY.

If it worked that means all the wires are right.

Leave the working motors/controller alone, try to only fix the front motor that sputters, as I saw in your post where you posted 2 videos.

IF the same exact model motor and controller hooked up the same exact way then it should work unless the sensors need replacement , there is a loose wire or one of the controllers is defective. Yet BOTH of the motors sputtered before telling me there could be loose wires in BOTH motors or sensors going bad because BOTH motors worked sensor less.

Could be, but you'd never know that until you change the wires around ONLY ON THE MOTOR THAT DOES NOT WORK. AND IT DOESNT MATTER THAT THE COLOR COMBO'S ARE THE SAME ON THE WORKING MOTOR. IT SIMPLY DOES NOT MATTER! Leave the good motor alone and forget about it, forget about the working motor and controllers color combo. Its meaningless. The only thing that matters is trying to fix the motor and controller that is not running smoothly.

markz   100 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by markz » Apr 06 2021 11:36pm

Front motor sputters.

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 07 2021 12:13am

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvA0QZ4Z9Rk

OK there is the video.


I just unhooked the phase and sensor wires from the rear hub motor to the controller that is working in the video and will hook the front motor to it.

If it sputters like it does with the other controller then it is the motor on the front. NOT the wiring.

If it works like the rear then it is a bad controller.

Since BOTH motors were sputtering the same way about two weeks ago I will be very surprised if the front motor works like the rear does.


Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 07 2021 12:46am

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. It is NOT the wires.

It is the Wish controller. It has to be defective.

What really does not make any sense is why the e bikeling controller I ordered with the display module and 9 pin connecter did not work.

I have my doubts that the 9 pin wire was wrong. In fact I really have no clue at all why the motors sputtered unless that other wish controller is bad. That is the only thing that makes any sense.

I am about to shoot the video of the front hub motor turning..

4/7/21 - 1:57 AM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-3y6XKR_Ps


Basically I should have guessed it was the controller. They were $11 each. A brand new Bafang motor with almost the same model number and power rating is $230 brand new.

Now is anyone out there going to admit that the wires did NOT need to be switched around ???????? I was right about that. It was Just like process of elimination . When I tested the motors the very first time they both sputtered HOWEVER I only used the bad controller when I tested BOTH motors.

I need some decent connecters. Small connecters like bullets. I also need those solderless connecters. A lot of my frustration is using crappy connections and the fact soldering is not for everyone.

Now I have a choice. Putting the good controller and the straightest motor (the front motor) on the Currie. Since I have to wait at least two weeks for the other controllers I think the Currie is the answer. I can run the motor under load. I am just not going up hills with the Bafang motor. I will use the rear chain drive. I can also get a pedal chain for the Currie.

Thanks.

LC. out.
Last edited by latecurtis on Apr 07 2021 1:07am, edited 2 times in total.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

Blacklite   10 mW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by Blacklite » Apr 07 2021 1:05am

markz wrote:
Apr 06 2021 11:27pm

Could be, but you'd never know that until you change the wires around ONLY ON THE MOTOR THAT DOES NOT WORK. AND IT DOESNT MATTER THAT THE COLOR COMBO'S ARE THE SAME ON THE WORKING MOTOR. IT SIMPLY DOES NOT MATTER! Leave the good motor alone and forget about it, forget about the working motor and controllers color combo. Its meaningless. The only thing that matters is trying to fix the motor and controller that is not running smoothly.

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 07 2021 1:11am

ONLY ON THE MOTOR THAT DOES NOT WORK.
What motor that does not work ?

Did you watch the video ? The one I just posted ?

Both motors work !!!!!!!

One controller works.

The other controller don't work !

Man you are HELL BENT on switching wires around that don't need to be switched.

WOW !!!

Hey everyone is wrong sometimes. Even Einstein was wrong once in awhile.

Man !!!

I need a beer.

Thanks.

LC. out.
Last edited by latecurtis on Apr 07 2021 1:25am, edited 2 times in total.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

Blacklite   10 mW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by Blacklite » Apr 07 2021 1:22am

85a8f0aa692be12ad8967c1d1880aeed.jpg
85a8f0aa692be12ad8967c1d1880aeed.jpg (66.42 KiB) Viewed 83 times
20369515_1573463026038352_2576557064571024780_o_z4cwUAOjqb.jpg
20369515_1573463026038352_2576557064571024780_o_z4cwUAOjqb.jpg (94.56 KiB) Viewed 83 times
Look at the colour of the wires and where they connect.

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 07 2021 1:30am

They are not the same controllers. Different models and probably makes !

The Wish.com controllers are the exact same controllers.

The first one I hooked up to BOTH motors , BOTH motors sputtered about a week ago.

Last night or about 24 hours ago I hooked up the other Wish.com controller.

The rear motor worked.

Tonight I tried the rear motor again and it still worked.

Then I unhooked the rear motor and hooked up the front motor to the controller I know works : the same controller that worked for the rear motor.

The front motor works.

You must have skipped the last video I did. I am rather quick when it comes to shooting and posting videos. You might have been posting.

No problem.

In a different situation , I hope to never be in , your methods could in fact work. But not in this situation.

1.) The e bikeling controller with the 9 pin female plug that plugged into the motor. It had flashing lights and no power to the motor. Your method of switching wires around could have worked but would have had to cut off both the Bafang male plug as well as the 9 pin female plug from the e bikeling controller in order to switch those wires around. I was not wiling to do all that back then.

2.) Then the 36V - 500 watt controller Dan sent. If I switched wires around maybe that could have worked as was using a 9 pin motor extension cable and had access to the phase and sensor wires.

So now why would I bother screwing around with an $11 controller that already failed on both motors when I know that both motors do in fact work. The chances that identical model controllers have different internal wiring are astronomical.


I have three controllers on the way. I will put the front motor on the Currie and call it a day.


Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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Sunder   1 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by Sunder » Apr 07 2021 2:20am

Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
I feel... a magic coming over me. Yes! Yes! I have the sight of Baba Yaga now, I can see the future!
Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
Either way, LC blames the parts.
latecurtis wrote:
Apr 06 2021 6:18am
How could it even be my fault. Obviously it is a bad sensor. What else could it be ? A motor with a bad sensor will work with a sensor less controller right ? So it has to be a bad sensor inside the motor. Also the guy from Battery Clearinghouse said he did not test them. How in the hell are you going to sell something you do not even know if it works or not ? I guess quality control means nothing. I really want to stomp right on that guys head. I am irate.
Ah yes, prediction one true already.
Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
He has a genuine but mistaken belief that the seller is a crook
latecurtis wrote:
Apr 06 2021 6:18am
What I do know is that Battery Clearing house are liars.
And, prediction two has come to pass.
Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
and demands a refund.
latecurtis wrote:
Apr 06 2021 6:18am
I really hope Battery Clearing house did send me a 50% refund as my guess is it is a bad sensor inside the motor. Since I cut the 9 pin plug off there really cant be another cause.
There's prediction three.
Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
He rants here, and is given advice, but doesn't listen.
Blacklite wrote:
Apr 06 2021 10:35pm
I've tried. I don't understand why he won't just try. It can't be just because he thinks he knows better - if it was then surely he'd try just to show everyone he was right.
There's Prediction four.
Sunder wrote:
Apr 02 2021 4:04pm
He vows to give up eBikes for a while, but the commitment doesn't last.
Only one prediction left, before I become a certified fortune teller!
eBike: Q100H on 16S with Phaserunner FOC Controller
eMotorscooter: Vectrix VX-1 Died... Electrified Ninja in Progress!
eCar: Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV... Warramty expired. Still not game!
eHouse: 6.2kw On-grid solar with battery backup coming soon!

After 5 builds, the best advice I can give, is start with high quality products. I prefer http://www.ebikes.ca

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latecurtis   1.21 GW

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Re: new eZip motor

Post by latecurtis » Apr 07 2021 2:28am

Only one prediction left, before I become a certified fortune teller!
Well

If I remember correct that last prediction is a catastrophic failure running the Bafang motors sensor less.

Well at least one sensored controller does in fact work. My prediction is those Green Time controllers will also work in sensored mode with the sensor wires hooked up.

I did not demand a refund either. That was Battery Clearing houses idea not mine. I just wanted to know if they had a clue what controller I should use.

Also there is still the mystery as to why the brand new e bikeling controller I spent $50 on as well as a $30 display module failed. It was a 9 pin female connecter and the motor a 9 pin male.

But Blacklights wire switching idea can explain that.

I was probably right about cutting off that 9 pin male plug. At least then you have color coded wires and rules out the 9 pin female extension plug as well as any 9 pin controllers with a female plug as you know exactly what the wires coming from inside the motor are.

Like I said. Process of elimination.

I think I will NOT order any more Bafang motors,

I will wait for a cheap KIT. That way I know the controller is 100% compatible with the motor. I can just hook it up and run it. That is the lesson I learned here.

I still find it very hard to believe the guy at Battery Clearinghouse sold 500 of those motors and only had complaints on 5.

I also find it hard to believe that even 100 of the 500 of those motors sold worked with 9 pin female controllers or 9 pin extension wires. Not without chopping off the 9 pin plugs and swapping wires around 36 possible combinations.

Not every person who orders a hub motor would be willing to do all that. Maybe an experienced bike shop. Not your average e bike builder.

Thanks.

LC. out.
I build e bikes. There not always pretty or practical but sometimes they work, at least for awhile. Immortality is not a dream but the future of our evolution. We were given the tools to forge our own destiny. We were created in gods image and shall evolve to live forever.

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