Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

I see your problem. You are running different software versions of de votol firmware

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You can't use the same config cause the parameters has different meanings in the new soft... it's very confusing. You need to check on the earlier posts, have been described the new settings... jitter, flush weakening calibration etc... I hate the horrible new version.... lickin for the older bin file...

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First of all thanks for the advises.
I am aware of the different Hardware and Software configurations, i read about it.

I just tried your parameters - but it does not change anything. The motor is still running pretty rough.

Here are some short clips i made to show the behavior:

Clip 01 - i set Busbar Current to 5A - you can hear that the conroller cuts out pretty quickly and the motor runs free till near standstill, then the controller comes back online (Motor fault Indicator is ON for the cutout time)
[youtube]sz4w9jn2Vz8[/youtube]

Clip02 - Busbar Current at 120A - no more cutouts but you can hear that strange "hitting sounds", the overall motor noise and you can see that thare seems to be something like a "electronic brake" - EBS is deactivated
[youtube]eayZ-0ZmHCk[/youtube]

hope there are any more ideas?
 
I see... let's do something. Sometimes votol controller s gets corrupt. In this case, the best is download the firmware, then send a well known good config... as base config. Then tune the values. Give some email and i will send you the firmware .bin and my base config...
 
leyva.ale said:
I think the more obvious is connect the switch to the parking line or the low brake line of the vitol

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Click to expand...

thank you, i will try.

Another question:
I'm reading the manual and it says the MOS in the controller could be burned if the battery disconnects (eg. because BMS protection) while you slowing down and using the regen function.
I can imagine, the voltage increases and causes overvoltage.
But it is a real problem, it can be a blowed fuse or anything similar

I'm thinking on how can we avoid this problem? If you disconnect the "e-lock" wire will it be the same?
And if you just towing the car with an another one without batteries, it could happen also?
 
There's no easy way to work around this problem... as long as the controller is powered up, there is an strict control of the MOS switching timing...
But... just remember that votol uses flux weakening all the time, so the motor actually can spin at rpms higher than the kv relationship.

In fact, there will be BEMF higher than battery voltage (that can't happen in regular controllers without flux weakening). So in the case you disconnect the battery, the elock (power of all low power circuitry) will go down, letting an uncontrolled MOS. With higher voltage than battery, and the battery disconnected, there are big chances of overcoming max voltage of the MOS without any control mechanism to drive currents to battery (disconnected by bms o fuse)

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tnk4_phoenixxx said:
First of all thanks for the advises.
I am aware of the different Hardware and Software configurations, i read about it.

I just tried your parameters - but it does not change anything. The motor is still running pretty rough.

Here are some short clips i made to show the behavior:

Clip 01 - i set Busbar Current to 5A - you can hear that the conroller cuts out pretty quickly and the motor runs free till near standstill, then the controller comes back online (Motor fault Indicator is ON for the cutout time)
[youtube]sz4w9jn2Vz8[/youtube]

Clip02 - Busbar Current at 120A - no more cutouts but you can hear that strange "hitting sounds", the overall motor noise and you can see that thare seems to be something like a "electronic brake" - EBS is deactivated
[youtube]eayZ-0ZmHCk[/youtube]

hope there are any more ideas?
Click to expand...

Doesn’t sound bad really, i’ve had similar type of clicks or cutouts with my old Votol on noload. Runs perfectly loaded. Did you try this?
 
No i havent tried to ride it.
When reconnect my old EM-50 the Motor runs with much less noise and no clicks or cutouts even at 1300rpm.
So i'm pretty sure something still needs to be optimized.
 
leyva.ale said:
I see... let's do something. Sometimes votol controller s gets corrupt. In this case, the best is download the firmware, then send a well known good config... as base config. Then tune the values. Give some email and i will send you the firmware .bin and my base config...
Click to expand...

Did you recieve my pm?
 
Finally i made it.
Took me nearly a million trial and errors but finally the motor is running smooth.
I am not even sure what exactly the problem was.

Only thing left is i still could not figure out how to deactivate the automatic regen.
 
Just use 0% here in page 3... It will disable regen
e065f8b46416573249672c76add65a66.jpg


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I already tried the setting on page 3 with 0% but it still does not work.
This used to be the regen brake when using the mechanical brakes and activating the "high brake" signal but that does not work either.
Regen seems to be "always active".
This is what page 4 shows
 
leyva.ale said:
I see... let's do something. Sometimes votol controller s gets corrupt. In this case, the best is download the firmware, then send a well known good config... as base config. Then tune the values. Give some email and i will send you the firmware .bin and my base config...
Click to expand...

hi
how are you?
do you have the latest firmware for EM200SP ?
i cant now communicate with controller . i made PD15 empty function which i think caused this ?
thanks
 
hi ALL
EM200SP
i have set up sport mode activation with a switch. all working fine....after several on/off cycles
i now cant communicate with PC .
i made PD15 an empty function , does anyone know if this is the cause of comm. failure?
im not sure as it was empty function and saved and working ok before the longer power off that i cant now recover from?
any Votol experts out there.
great Controller IMO
 
EM200SP

"3 speed setting"

are PAGE 2 speed setting values a percentage of max (sport) amps OR values for flux weakening ?
i have read both answers ...
thanks
 
I just set PD15 to empty function to see what it acutally does (on my EM 150s)
Haven't found any difference yet but communication is still fine.
 
tnk4_phoenixxx said:
I just set PD15 to empty function to see what it acutally does (on my EM 150s)
Haven't found any difference yet but communication is still fine.
Click to expand...

yes i did same, mindful as not to cause the non comm. scenario . it was all fine . on and off power cycles..
then left for one day and now no comm.
be carefull , i have read that Votols like to take time to write parameters...
 
link to youtube for slideshow of my bike
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7sOhOCHre4https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7sOhOCHre4
 
got my VOTOL EM200SP connected again.
was a hardware issue after all.
one CAN wire had a dodgy connection to the USB board. soldered up and now good

ALWAYS CHECK THE BASICS!
 
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