Ebike ugrade help?

Hello everyone
I own a Tonaro BigHit, amazing bike. However the the motor has gotten damage to the gear and since there are some other week points in the gear box such as the one way bearing I want to upgrade this ebike
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What I want :


A multipurpose ebike I can use for Cruising, Going to the store, And having off-road fun

To be able to go up 35 degree hills

To be able to reach speeds of 80 KPH. Not a must but it would be nice to have a top speed that high

For the kit to be of good quality

To have hydraulic Ebrakes

I would specify a range I want but since im not buying a battery that aspect of the upgrade does not come into play
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What I have:

The bighit frame

A 44.4V LIPO with 1776 WH which can draw 480A Continuously

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-high-capacity-battery-20000mah-6s-12c-drone-lipo-pack-xt90.html?___store=en_us
I am using 4 of these batteries in a 2s 2p Configuration
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My budget is 1000 USD or 820 euro


The kit im thinking of buying

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333949614297?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Df3da1a4f7f08468e8bff0618e46661d9%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D174772780555%26itm%3D333949614297%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2060778&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507


I also am curious about the company that is selling this kit if anyone has ever done business Risunmotor/Hallomotor or knows if this company is any good?
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Thank you in advance

PluckMaster


Sweden Ostergotland

PluckMaster said:

To be able to go up 35 degree hills

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure you don't want that. That's a 70% grade, or about twice as steep as the steepest paved road in the world.

I don't need it for on road use. but I have needed to go up extremely steep hill with i go off-roading however. I have not measured the hills that I have gone up

Edited the reply because of broken english

Looks alright, personally I like to buy parts individually. You need to find out what turn the motor is. Also you battery voltage is too low. I have run that controller at 12s felt slow. 18s much better.

PluckMaster said:

I also am curious about the company that is selling this kit if anyone has ever done business Risunmotor/Hallomotor or knows if this company is any good?

Click to expand...

I bought a controller and display from their ebay store. They don't make anything; but rebrand it with their name. They didn't even bother doing that for the stuff I bought, which were a KT sine wave controller and LCD3 display. They did put their name on the documentation though (Risunmotor LCD3 manual).

Eyeballing the pictures, it looks like that kit has a QS205 motor (rebranded) and Sabvoton clone controller.

Audisport09 said:

Looks alright, personally I like to buy parts individually. You need to find out what turn the motor is. Also you battery voltage is too low. I have run that controller at 12s felt slow. 18s much better.

Click to expand...

Thank you for the input. I probably plan to upgrade the battery some time down the road.

E-HP said:

PluckMaster said:

I also am curious about the company that is selling this kit if anyone has ever done business Risunmotor/Hallomotor or knows if this company is any good?

Click to expand...

I bought a controller and display from their ebay store. They don't make anything; but rebrand it with their name. They didn't even bother doing that for the stuff I bought, which were a KT sine wave controller and LCD3 display. They did put their name on the documentation though (Risunmotor LCD3 manual).

Eyeballing the pictures, it looks like that kit has a QS205 motor (rebranded) and Sabvoton clone controller.

Click to expand...

Interesting. if you where looking for the best kit for 1000$, would you buy this kit?

I wanted performance like that, but for longer rides than 45 min. Hard to carry battery big enough to go for a couple hours at those speeds.

For $800 I bought an old honda 100. Because you could choose a lower gear, it would climb steep hills that choked my large hub motor, on 3000w of 72v. Top speed was only about 60 kph, so I replaced it with a yamaha 250 this spring which goes 70 mph if you need to.

But your solution is not my solution. You got a great bike frame to work with, you just need a big strong heavy direct drive hub motor, and a couple more lipos to run it on 3000w or more, of 72v. That will get you to 60 kph at least. It will climb the hill you need to get up, but maybe not climb the hill so steep you can barely walk on it. 35 degrees is double black diamond rating, in ski slopes. Even bulldozer roads to mines max out at about 25 degrees, then have to start switch backing.

yeuyoga said:

To be able to go up 35 degree hills

To be able to reach speeds of 80 KPH.

Click to expand...

Think again on both these points.

35 degrees is 70 percent grade. About twice as steep as the steepest roads in the world.

80 kph speed implies either insufficient torque to do any steep climbing, or such a superabundance of power that you're deep into motorcycle territory.

Today I worked on a bike that a customer converted to hydraulic brakes. Despite being brand new, one piston was sticky, so his front brakes rub no matter how they are adjusted. This is a problem his cable brakes did not have.

I'd say get a motorcycle, but my 250 would never go up 35 degrees. 20 degrees is possible, till you wheelie off it. And some pro riders do ride up 35 degrees, for a last few feet of a hill in a quarry or something. But a normal human will tire of crashing trying to climb much more than 15 to 20 degrees.

But you surely mean 35%. That's doable, as is 80 kph/ 50 mph. It takes a motorcycle grade rear hub motor, one able to take 5000w or more without melting in a few min. The magnets in there need to be wider than the standard bike hub motors 28 mm, and a lot more copper inside. So motors that weigh more like 25 pounds vs 15.

3000w from a controller, such as 72v 40 amps will get you 40 mph peak speed. So you need to look into even higher voltages, and higher amps, to get into the 5000w ballpark.

As for a mid drive, it can be done, but its just easier to leave chains or belts out if it and just go hub motor. Those motorcycle speeds and power cannot be put through the bike chain. You can put big motors and biger chains on the other side of the bike to mid drive one.

dogman dan said:

I'd say get a motorcycle, but my 250 would never go up 35 degrees. 20 degrees is possible, till you wheelie off it. And some pro riders do ride up 35 degrees, for a last few feet of a hill in a quarry or something. But a normal human will tire of crashing trying to climb much more than 15 to 20 degrees.

Click to expand...

This hill is about 50 degrees for the last few feet, so maybe with a super long swingarm and 200 HP (150kW), plus studded/spiked tires, and some momentum?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cZWv0r6U1jU

I agree that it must be 35% incline, but not ruling out 35° because I do it sometimes. 35°+ is a hill that you need to attack at high speed, and you can’t stop or slow down during the climb because you won’t be able to resume, and likely give up watching your bike flipping downhill. With a bike made for it and a competent rider, the chances of making it to the top can be very low if it is high, rough, or wet. So, let’s assume that you are not going into the extreme sport of hill climbing Widow mountain.

A 35% incline is easy to build for. Urban stairs are all between 25 and 35% incline. Ideally you will want a big DD hub in a small wheel with a big tire if you plan to do it often. A 24’’ wheel won’t like doing it very long, but it is OK for occasional steep climbing as long as you are conscious of the heat limits. The bike need to be long, not necessarily modified but chosen for its long wheelbase that should be 50’’ at least. Alternatively, custom dropouts can be made to extend the bike’s wheelbase and rear suspension travel. Suspension is a must, of course. A bike quickly turns into a bucking bull when climbing aggressively.

High speed too, is more reliable with smaller wheels and big tires, than large wheels with thin tires. The motor keeps much cooler, producing higher torque with lesser power.

Yep, thats a legit 50 degree hill in the video. Fun stuff, looks like the old paddle tire is obsolete, at least for a track as rocky as that one.

Its quite possible the original poster is not a normal human. Its amazing what abnormal humans can do for sure. It did not take all that much for me to build a bike able to climb 20 degrees. But staying on that thing more than a few feet at that grade was quite hard. 15 degrees easy enough, 20 degrees, the MTB wheelbase simply too short.

He can definitely build a bike with more power, and lengthen the wheelbase, improve suspension a LOT compared with what he has now, etc.

But all he needs is a new, powerful hub motor to get a lot of what he wants, including 20 degrees, or more if he's abnormal enough a human to stay on it.

People always overestimate the inclination angle of a climb. They look steeper than they are, especially when you are grinding up them on a pedal bike. As posted above the math is your friend. But the OP clearly seems to need a motorcycle. Maybe a special hill climbing rig that won't wheelie on a "35 degree" slope. They are loooooonnnng.

Something like this!

It's in the builders thread.