Leaf / leafmotor / leafbike high efficiency 1500w motor

Get the freewheel model. It has 14mm axles on both sides. Unless i've missed a change somewhere.

Because of the nutty power this motor can put out ( roughly equal to the bigass crystalytes of yore ), you very much want the biggest axles you can get if you're in the 3kW and beyond club like me.
 
Newbie-Looking to get a 1500w leaf kit.
See the motor has gotten go ratings, but havent seen much on their controller and battery
any advice on their controller and battery
from email contacting them, seem they only sell sq-wave controllers
 
AdR said:
Newbie-Looking to get a 1500w leaf kit.
See the motor has gotten go ratings, but havent seen much on their controller and battery
any advice on their controller and battery
from email contacting them, seem they only sell sq-wave controllers
Click to expand...

The controllers Leaf Bike sells with their kits are generic KT trapezoidal wave controllers. They're reputable and somewhat programmable, but nothing special (and fairly noisy). I've had no problems at all with the controllers.

I haven't considered sourcing a battery from Leaf, and their cycle life claims seem less than credible.

I strongly advise you to get a hub that isn't laced to a rim, which will save shipping costs and allow you to have a decent quality wheel built locally.
 
@Chalo-do you think a KT sine wave controller a good option.
And to the general forum- what controllers have others had good experiences with the leaf 1500w motor.
 
AdR said:
@Chalo-do you think a KT sine wave controller a good option.
Click to expand...

I don't know; I have not used one yet. I like the idea of silent or near-silent operation, but I can't say I'd pay a lot extra to get it.

I understand that synthetic sine wave controllers are a little less efficient than trapezoidal wave controllers, and FOC controllers a little more efficient.
 
@Chalo- are you runnig a leaf 1500w with the stock sq wave controller?
if so, how are you liking it
what turn are you running
 
AdR said:
Newbie-Looking to get a 1500w leaf kit.
See the motor has gotten go ratings, but havent seen much on their controller and battery
any advice on their controller and battery
from email contacting them, seem they only sell sq-wave controllers
Click to expand...

Wouldn't bother getting any batteries or controllers from them.

I used an infineon clone em3ev controller but i think those are now only sold at lyen.com
I would read the forum a bit and do some research on what's best. People are playing with a lot of different newer controllers now.
 
AdR said:
@Chalo- are you runnig a leaf 1500w with the stock sq wave controller?
if so, how are you liking it
what turn are you running
Click to expand...

On my own bike, I use a 6T 1500W front Leaf (in a 29" wheel) with the default 35A controller and KT LCD3 display. It works boringly well, and makes more noise than my ancient Crystalyte 5305 with its ancient Crystalyte 35A controller.
 
Which kv would you rather have?
What voltage are you using?

Chalo said:
On my own bike, I use a 6T 1500W front Leaf (in a 29" wheel) with the default 35A controller and KT LCD3 display. It works boringly well, and makes more noise than my ancient Crystalyte 5305 with its ancient Crystalyte 35A controller.
Click to expand...
 
markz said:
Which kv would you rather have?
What voltage are you using?

Chalo said:
On my own bike, I use a 6T 1500W front Leaf (in a 29" wheel) with the default 35A controller and KT LCD3 display. It works boringly well, and makes more noise than my ancient Crystalyte 5305 with its ancient Crystalyte 35A controller.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I was intending to use the motor in a 20" wheel at 48V, for a top speed close to 20 mph. Plans changed, and it was pressed into service for my 29er, with a 44V battery. It's good for 26+ mph on flat ground, but it contributes some push up to about 32-33 when I'm moving downhill and/or pounding the pedals hard. Mostly I turn it down and cruise, as intended, at about 20.
 
My disclosure of shame :oops: . Looking to upgrade a blix packa I bought in desperation to take the kids to the park.
the 500w DD in a 24 inch wheel is just a hair away from stalling on two hills on the route with me + 2 kids=300lbs with a 3rd soon to be added. Bike come with 48v/10ah+14ah batteries. Looking for about 15mph with kids and maybe 30mph when running away from home :wink:
 
What are your batteries discharge rates in amperes?

AdR said:
My disclosure of shame :oops: . Looking to upgrade a blix packa I bought in desperation to take the kids to the park.
the 500w DD in a 24 inch wheel is just a hair away from stalling on two hills on the route with me + 2 kids=300lbs with a 3rd soon to be added. Bike come with 48v/10ah+14ah batteries. Looking for about 15mph with kids and maybe 30mph when running away from home :wink:
Click to expand...
 
Seller claim packs made with samsung 35E cells. assuming 1c discharge give possible 24ah discharge. Seen 30amp fuse in 14ah battery. So assuming 2c discharge give possible total 48amp discharge.
 
AdR said:
Seller claim packs made with samsung 35E cells. assuming 1c discharge give possible 24ah discharge. Seen 30amp fuse in 14ah battery. So assuming 2c discharge give possible total 48amp discharge.
Click to expand...

Based on the rating of the cells, the 3P pack is good for 24A and the 4P pack is good for 32A; when new.
 
Should be good enough for 1500w continuous motor, now all I need is a good controller. Shame waiting time for nucular micro is almost a year. :x :(
 
Anyone running their 1500 with a kelly or sabvoton, if so which one, or the phaserunner.
 
E-HP said:
AdR said:
Seller claim packs made with samsung 35E cells. assuming 1c discharge give possible 24ah discharge. Seen 30amp fuse in 14ah battery. So assuming 2c discharge give possible total 48amp discharge.
Click to expand...

Based on the rating of the cells, the 3P pack is good for 24A and the 4P pack is good for 32A; when new.
Click to expand...

Yeah, maximum but not continuous. You should design for 1/4th of max ideally! you'll get insane voltage sag at max!
IE you have a 10AH '3c rated' battery? a good load would be 1C or less ( <10A ).

Reference: lygyte-dl samsung 35e data: https://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Samsung INR18650-35E 3500mAh (Pink) UK.html
 
AdR said:
bike comes with 10ah and 14ah batteries in parrall@48v
Click to expand...
I only did the math, based on the specs and assumptions. Neptronix added his layer of wisdom and experience.

He advises 1/4 of the rated current is safer for the battery, and maintains better performance by not sagging. I used 8A per cell in my calc, which is supposedly the continuous rating, although oddly stated in the data sheet. The data sheet is ideal, and won't take into account how the pack is configured or dissipates heat, etc.:

8,000mA (for continuous discharge)
13,000mA (not for continuous discharge)

You can draw your own conclusions and decide how much to beat up your pack. I have 8P of 35E cells. It gets hammered off the line, but not continuously (I still like pedaling and don't ride fast), and I'm OK with the consequences.

1/4 of 56A is 14A. (if using the peak rating from the data sheet, 1/4 would be 23A)

For 1500W continuous at 48V you need at least 31A continuous battery amps even before taking into account losses. The motor will probably pull 3 times that or more if you let it and don't have the controller limiting current.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0481/9678/0183/files/samsung_35e_data_sheet.pdf?v=1605015771
 
What he wants is something like 1,500 rear 40amp controller and C .A. to set amps or a program Lyen as he can have added a CA plug or what controller ? What wind ? And now how will the batteries keep up ? Lots of weight and what type of hills ?
 
If I am honest with myself, what I need is about 20 mph with the max load on the flat and enough torque for about 1/4 mile steepish hill without the motor over heating. want the quietness of a DD but a geared is probably what I really need, geared noise or not
 
If I am honest with myself, what I need is about 20 mph with the max load on the flat and enough torque for about 1/4 mile steepish hill without the motor over heating. Want the quietness of a DD, but a geared is probably what I really need, geared noise or not
Click to expand...

I daily-drive a car that is capable of 100-MPH, but...I have found that it is fairly easy to adhere to the posted speed-limit of 25-MPH in the school zone. I would recommend a hubmotor that is capable of a top-speed that is slightly more than you plan to use in your daily commute. As a result of using a lower turn-count, the motor will experience less resistance and will convert fewer battery watts into waste-heat.

That being said, you will be well-served with either one of the choices that you are contemplating...
 
AdR said:
My disclosure of shame :oops: . Looking to upgrade a blix packa I bought in desperation to take the kids to the park.
the 500w DD in a 24 inch wheel is just a hair away from stalling on two hills on the route with me + 2 kids=300lbs with a 3rd soon to be added. Bike come with 48v/10ah+14ah batteries. Looking for about 15mph with kids and maybe 30mph when running away from home :wink:
Click to expand...

1500W Leaf should be more than satisfactory. 6 turn winding in a 24" wheel would be good for about 24 mph cruising on 48V. If you want a higher top speed than that, you can get 5 turn or 4 turn motor, but you'll sacrifice some climbing ability and acceleration in return for the increased top speed.

You could also try using a more powerful controller with the motor you already have.
 
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