My 1st ebike, Pls Help Verify Kit/Info Before I Buy

Save your money and spend more time reading up on the difference between motors, pro's and con's to each hub motor, geared vs direct drive, play around with the tools to figure out your riding terrain and what specs to buy. Change power ratings.

Ebikeling is is decent, I never bought them but others have and seem to like what they bought.

Buy 1000watt direct drive or geared. Read what the differences are, run out of juice on dd you need to pedal harder like a flat tire. Geared freewheels, and more torque due to the internal gears but more moving parts can fail unlike dd which is strong.

You want to pedal, huff and puff, break a sweat, want pedal assist and display, then buy KT display kit no big deal. Buy it all as a package or buy a battery separately.

MAC motor is geared, buy that, I wouldnt want to buy less power. Power/Speed is limited to controller+battery.
http://www.macmotortech.com/ebike-kits.html
https://mac.en.alibaba.com/

https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/group/Brushless-DC-Motor/313864_251592060.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.pcShopHead_11248317.1_4
https://bmsbattery.com
https://ebikeling.com
https://lunacycle.com
https://em3ev.com
https://ebikes.ca/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=elifebike2010&_sop=16
https://www.pswpower.com/collections/controller?page=2

https://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-bike-kit/rear.html <----do a search on them, hit & miss.


These guys are good sell everything from geared to dd to controllers to throttles to high power to weak power, displays, batteries, torque arms.
https://mxus.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-810199622/Geared_motor_250w_1000w.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.98.3
 
You will want a stronger motor later, but if you buy that kind now, you will just need a lot more money to get the battery that will last with the motor pulling so hard.

Best thing you could do? Get a top quality kit from a vendor that sells only that kind of kit. But that puts the budget as much as $1500, or even 2500 if you buy a complete name brand bike from a shop.

But for now, get a decent 350w geared motor kit from a known vendor. The gears inside just make the tiny motor able to pull harder for its size.

Then up your battery budget as much as you can stand to. keep the whole thing well under a thou. The motor will be weak, but you don't have huge hills. You don't mention needing 30 mph to mix with traffic. If you did, Id start saying get a 150cc gas scooter that can go 50 mph. And that little motor will do the trick nicely, for riding around at 15-20 mph.

Bear in mind, here at ES we are a lot of guys who like making miniature motorcycles. We modify frames with welders, build wheels with motorcycle rims, build our own batteries from raw cells, and we consider 72v bikes that go 40 mph a starting point.

One last word on the battery fire thing,, I only said charge it outside. You can keep it inside just fine, but it can be a good idea to keep it in metal, like a toolbox or something. It won't set the wiring of the building on fire if something happens. The main thing about charging it in a bbq grill is just that you can keep the thing charging if it happens to be raining out there. And its out of sight.
 
markz said:
Cheap batteries dont last long.
You may have been lied to on how the battery was built, you may have been promised 2021 Ferrari 18650's and were actually sold 1972 Ford Pinto 18650's as a battery because you trusted a no name battery seller to save a few pennies and you are left with paying more then double because the second battery is sold by a reputable seller/builder and costs more then the cheap battery you got to save a few pennies.

That... is a valid point! Sketchy sellers are sketchy!

goatman said:
ya the batteries are garbage but you replace them with 25r's, good,cheap and reliable

I'm definitely not at the point where I should be doing anything like that! (Safely, that is...) Thanks tho!

99t4 said:
Dear DearDeathDay,

You posses tremendous writing skills. Very expressive. Way better than most of us. But what I am perceiving is that you lack mechanical skills, electronic, troubleshooting, tool usage, shop safety skills, etc. (Admittedly I could be wrong but that's what I perceive via your remarks and comments.)(Basically 0 necessary skills.) Therefore it's going to be very difficult for you by yourself to piece together a reliable safe system given your budget.

Can you find someone local that has the necessary skills, maybe an auto-electric mechanic or similar hobbyist to help you, and work out a trade? Can you find a local park or field where the RC (Remote Control) folks fly their RC planes or run their RC cars or boats? They would most likely be great at putting together your e-bike.

For example, when I need to do some important writing I get my daughter to help (she's a fantastic writer like you) and I fix her car or change the oil or whatever, things she can't do. Works out way better for both of us.

Not trying to discourage you because given enough time and training (and $$$) yes you can get there and do it all yourself but is that the most efficient way?

Just making suggestions to keep you safe, sincerely not wanting you to create an inadvertent fireworks show :kff: while changing out some connectors trying to hook up a cheap battery from x to a cheap controller from y.

That is very kind of you to say and I totally get where you are coming from! Right now I'm not really friends with anyone that has those kinds of technical skills nor do I know of any places nearby where I wouldn't be charged out the nose for some help. I'm sure if I look hard enough I'll be able to find someone though. After all, there is the saying that anyone is 6 handshakes away from anyone else.

I do have some experience with engineering but definitely nothing like this. Mostly, just pulling smartphones apart and doing basic part replacements. For example, I know way more about the programming behind the screen then I know how the wiring works.

If I can't find anyone to help me or I'm not 100% certain that the parts I get will fit together without issue then I should probably just get a 1-and-done kind of kit. The ebikeling kits that have come up a few times also have batteries and they're just basic DD motors so there shouldn't be any part of the assembly that could go catastrophically wrong. However... I want the challenge of something interesting and settling for safety will be a hard decision... I'm leaning towards saving a bit more to ensure I don't have any remorse over the battery being cheap and getting a complete kit from somewhere right now. That will just take more time... and time is the enemy of still having to pedal everywhere!!

P.S. You're the first person to make an attempt at a joke outta my name worth anything so points to you!

markz said:
Save your money and spend more time reading up on the difference between motors, pro's and con's to each hub motor, geared vs direct drive, play around with the tools to figure out your riding terrain and what specs to buy. Change power ratings.

Ebikeling is is decent, I never bought them but others have and seem to like what they bought.

Buy 1000watt direct drive or geared. Read what the differences are, run out of juice on dd you need to pedal harder like a flat tire. Geared freewheels, and more torque due to the internal gears but more moving parts can fail unlike dd which is strong.

You want to pedal, huff and puff, break a sweat, want pedal assist and display, then buy KT display kit no big deal. Buy it all as a package or buy a battery separately.

MAC motor is geared, buy that, I wouldnt want to buy less power. Power/Speed is limited to controller+battery.
http://www.macmotortech.com/ebike-kits.html
https://mac.en.alibaba.com/

https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/group/Brushless-DC-Motor/313864_251592060.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.pcShopHead_11248317.1_4
https://bmsbattery.com
https://ebikeling.com
https://lunacycle.com
https://em3ev.com
https://ebikes.ca/

https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=&_ssn=elifebike2010&_sop=16
https://www.pswpower.com/collections/controller?page=2

https://www.greenbikekit.com/electric-bike-kit/rear.html <----do a search on them, hit & miss.


These guys are good sell everything from geared to dd to controllers to throttles to high power to weak power, displays, batteries, torque arms.
https://mxus.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-810199622/Geared_motor_250w_1000w.html?spm=a2700.shop_plgr.98.3

Thank you so much for all the links! I've been to a good half of those sites at one point or another but definitely haven't aggregated them like that! My spreadsheet is pitifully empty of entries. I mostly gave up on filling it out when I realized anything decent was outside my current budget lol

MAC looks like the kind of website where "if you have to ask the price then you can't afford it."

I'm totally still doing research! After everything I've learned so far I know making a hasty decision won't get me anywhere and, strictly speaking, I don't need the ebike until the summer lets out. So, I have plenty of time to make the right choice... A 1000w kit does seem like the best option for something that won't ever have issues getting me around at the speed limits. However, it's not strictly street legal where I live so... that's just something I have to take into consideration. I definitely want PAS as an option but I'd also like to have a throttle (even though that doesn't quite appear to be exactly legal either, technically speaking) so having a display is pretty important. If I don't get a display then... I could probably hide the battery as back rack luggage and only someone who knew what they where looking for might be able to tell it was an ebike. Which, might not be such a bad thing. I do like data though, so not getting a screen doesn't appeal to me very much.

A DD motor seems like its probably the easiest choice. They're a bit cheaper and, like you said, easier to take care of. Still, more research is required!

dogman dan said:
You will want a stronger motor later, but if you buy that kind now, you will just need a lot more money to get the battery that will last with the motor pulling so hard.

Best thing you could do? Get a top quality kit from a vendor that sells only that kind of kit. But that puts the budget as much as $1500, or even 2500 if you buy a complete name brand bike from a shop.

But for now, get a decent 350w geared motor kit from a known vendor. The gears inside just make the tiny motor able to pull harder for its size.

Then up your battery budget as much as you can stand to. keep the whole thing well under a thou. The motor will be weak, but you don't have huge hills. You don't mention needing 30 mph to mix with traffic. If you did, Id start saying get a 150cc gas scooter that can go 50 mph. And that little motor will do the trick nicely, for riding around at 15-20 mph.

Bear in mind, here at ES we are a lot of guys who like making miniature motorcycles. We modify frames with welders, build wheels with motorcycle rims, build our own batteries from raw cells, and we consider 72v bikes that go 40 mph a starting point.

One last word on the battery fire thing,, I only said charge it outside. You can keep it inside just fine, but it can be a good idea to keep it in metal, like a toolbox or something. It won't set the wiring of the building on fire if something happens. The main thing about charging it in a bbq grill is just that you can keep the thing charging if it happens to be raining out there. And its out of sight.

Yeah... going over ~$1K just means I should probably get an actual ebike instead of trying to put my own together. Doing a project for the first time on that kind of budget with my kind of income would be a terrible idea. However, a few years from now... that's a different story entirely!

This might just be my elitism talking but a 350w motor seems so weak :<

Thiskit, for example, is 36v 500w with a 36v 11.6AH ~417wh battery for like ~$700 (after factoring in another torque arm + stuff) which isn't... out of the picture entirely and is better than every ~$1K ebike I can find anywhere. I'd prefer to get the same thing but 750~1000w because its like... a few $100 for the difference between... meh... and... less meh... but, obviously, I can't quite afford that.

However, you are correct that anything more than that will go outside the possible budget I'd like if I want to get something reputable and dump every last cent into the best battery I can.

Getting any kind of moped/scooter or whatever is... just as expensive! And that isn't taking into account I'd probably need a motorcycle endorsement or some nonsense. The moped would need a license plate and insurance... all those things riding an ebike was supposed to help me avoid lol

I'm the kind of person who just doesn't want to break any enforceable laws as a point of fact, so not doing those registration things is impossible for me.

On a side note, can you believe how much they charge for a terrible pre-built ebike? Waaaay too much! Way too much.

Also, I don't need to mix with traffic much. Anywhere I can't be on a sidewalk will be so packed with cars I'll be going 10x faster than them just trying not to unbalance.

Don't worry, I have definitely picked up on the fact that everyone here just wants to build illegal motorcycles! I almost share that sentiment... I'm just a bit too concerned about the risk for permanent physical injury to go that far.

I think I'll probably look into a ~$50 investment of a battery charging "case" - if there isn't a risk of an electrical fire... then that's just the safest option and, generally, something I'm willing to pay to make sure it doesn't destroy my life. Its a permanent investment and even if I get the best battery ever there would still be a risk of it catching on fire!

Then again... within 10 feet of me there are at least 3 different Lithium Ion batteries that I have never been particularly worried about spontaneously combusting... maybe... I should be? Or maybe I shouldn't be so worried about the ebike battery >.>
 
Sorry we are DIY and we lose tons of money ask Dogman how many motors he melted or controllers ?
I've not been in the game is Long as Dogman but I have burnt up controllers batteries and motors couple throttles but my CA's always work.
So where do you live so we can help you to go to the proper place.
 
999zip999 said:
Sorry we are DIY and we lose tons of money ask Dogman how many motors he melted or controllers ?
I've not been in the game is Long as Dogman but I have burnt up controllers batteries and motors couple throttles but my CA's always work.
So where do you live so we can help you to go to the proper place.

I'd prefer to order everything online!
 
That link to the 500w kit,, that is a 350w motor. Exactly the type of kit I suggest, if your budget is really that tight. Basically, at 500w your battery will last a lot longer than the same smaller, more affordable battery run on 1000w. Thats the only reason I suggest you run the first year or so on 350 w type kits.

The motor is rated 350w. The controller is likely a 15 amp, 36v controller. So around 500w max power in that kit. 500w is weak, but legal in most of the US. 500w gets you 20 mph, and 13 mph up a steep hill with brisk pedaling. In big wind, it will bog down hard, to 10-15 mph. Its enough for somebody that weighs less than 200 pounds.

The motor can take double its watt rating, so 700w or so is about as hard as you should push one of those. 750w the legal limit in most of the US, and nobody is getting arrested for riding 1000w kits that I know of. Hooligans yes, for being jerks, but not for 1000w.

I melted lots of motors, including ones just like the kit you linked. I did this on purpose, testing motors for a couple vendors. One of them hired me permanently for customer service, and did stop selling that kind of motor. It was too easy to melt, for people that lived in West Virginia, and other places in the mountains. Those kits that melted had 1000w btw (48v), and it was a bit past that type motors limits. 36v kits had very few warranty claims.

It will do for you, because you said you don't have hills. Those tests I did were on climbs more than 2000 feet tall, in weather more than 100 degrees, 3 miles of continuous hill, and the bike deliberately overloaded. But you won't melt your motor riding it on flatter terrain, on 36v.

I still say that kit would do for you, and fit your budget. Later, you will want more speed, more power, and have money for stronger batteries.
 
dogman dan said:
That link to the 500w kit,, that is a 350w motor. Exactly the type of kit I suggest, if your budget is really that tight. Basically, at 500w your battery will last a lot longer than the same smaller, more affordable battery run on 1000w. Thats the only reason I suggest you run the first year or so on 350 w type kits.

The motor is rated 350w. The controller is likely a 15 amp, 36v controller. So around 500w max power in that kit. 500w is weak, but legal in most of the US. 500w gets you 20 mph, and 13 mph up a steep hill with brisk pedaling. In big wind, it will bog down hard, to 10-15 mph. Its enough for somebody that weighs less than 200 pounds.

The motor can take double its watt rating, so 700w or so is about as hard as you should push one of those. 750w the legal limit in most of the US, and nobody is getting arrested for riding 1000w kits that I know of. Hooligans yes, for being jerks, but not for 1000w.

I melted lots of motors, including ones just like the kit you linked. I did this on purpose, testing motors for a couple vendors. One of them hired me permanently for customer service, and did stop selling that kind of motor. It was too easy to melt, for people that lived in West Virginia, and other places in the mountains. Those kits that melted had 1000w btw (48v), and it was a bit past that type motors limits. 36v kits had very few warranty claims.

It will do for you, because you said you don't have hills. Those tests I did were on climbs more than 2000 feet tall, in weather more than 100 degrees, 3 miles of continuous hill, and the bike deliberately overloaded. But you won't melt your motor riding it on flatter terrain, on 36v.

I still say that kit would do for you, and fit your budget. Later, you will want more speed, more power, and have money for stronger batteries.

How could tell it was a 350w motor? Something about how fast the motor can spin, maybe?

And yeah... a weaker kit would mean I could go further on a weaker battery. It would be kind of proportional? However, 10-15mph in inclement weather is probably faster than I should be safely going on a bike anyways. Low visibility tends to equate to an increase in danger, at least in my experience so far.

I definitely don't have any significant hills. Nothing like that, anyways. There are some small hills but they are outside my normal commute so I won't be going up them at any point where I'm in a rush (hopefully, anyways).

I'm not really worried about getting arrested for just having a 1000w motor. I'm worried about my bike getting impounded on a technicality.

And that's pretty cool! Stress testing equipment is always fun and if doing so got you a job offer that's about 1000x better!

If I could afford it would getting something like this slightly different/more expensive kit be a bad idea? Or is the difference between the 500w kit and that not actually that significant? Or if I had ~800 would it be better spent on a mid drive kit (which I'm not... licensed to install... it could be fun tho!). Further, the 1200w etc. kits on that site are DD but the 500w kit is actually geared (which I... only just noticed...)! I'm still not sure if that would be a better or worse purchase? I know geared motors are better for hills but... I don't have hill... I know they are also smaller, louder and a bit more stealthy but, well, that's not really gonna impact my final decision very much. I have read that a DD motor is the best choice for going flat but the geared one will let me ride normally...

Ahh, sorry. I think I've started just repeating things from earlier in the thread. That's probably a, uhh, question which is more of a personal thing? What I need to do is just get the cheapest full kit I can find that won't explode and evaluate in a year. Yes. I need to remember that. R e m e m b e r. Well, it doesn't hurt that much to dream, anyways.

Thanks again for the advice! I really appreciate everyone here taking the time to throw all this stuff at me. Hopefully I've actually learned something lol
 
I recently bought my wife a Brompton Electric. It is a folding bike to go with a non-electric Brompton that I have and will allow us to stow the bikes in the back of a small SUV for trips. The Brompton is designed for the UK ebike regulations of 250w and the motor cuts out at exactly 15.8mph. I haven't tried it on any steep hills, but it has no problem with flat roads and mild hills. I found the 15mph cutoff annoying, but my wife loves the bike and the cutoff will make it easier to keep up with her on the non-electric Brompton (until I can get a kit for it).
 
When you buy a kit except for a high-end and even with expensive kits you're fine you would have to tighten the spokes true the rim before its installed. either you can do this or take it to a local bike store and have them tighten the spokes and true the rim before you put the tire on before you install it.
 
We just know these common motors at sight. The smaller diameter geared motors rate 350w, while the larger diameter geared motors rate 500w. Both can take roughly double the rated motor wattage, for a limited time, like an hour, which may be a half hour longer than the battery lasts. And in any case, if you cruise 20 mph, you use 600w on average. So you have to push the motors hard to damage them, with too much weight, and usually very steep hills.

The typical DD kit motor is rated 500w too, but because they can shed heat faster than geared motors, they can be pushed harder, to about 1500w, and for short enough time periods, 3000w. Push one to 3000w, and it climbs a lot better than a geared 500w motor does at 1500w. So its hard to say which "climbs better". But for sure, the DD motor is the most durable.

What I mostly did at that ebikekit.com job, was try to steer customers to the right kit for their needs. What you describe wanting will be satisfied by the smallest 350w rated motor kit. Best choice if you had the money, would be the 500w rated geared type motor. They are a fantastic choice for both battery economy, lighter weight, and the coasting ability of geared motors makes it feel more bike like to ride. But if you up rate the kit to 48v, and 1000-1200w, then you need a stronger battery. Id advice a bigger battery than 10 ah or so. 15 ah minimum for the 1000w kits. So its simply more expensive to set up a great kit that has more power.

One thing they do,, they sell the battery they can sell. Its smaller, and cheaper. Its not what you need for serious car replacement type bike commuting. For that you want a 48v 20 ah battery. Big, heavy, expensive. Its damn hard to sell people a big expensive battery, so they sell you a small one, and count on you losing interest in riding it before it wears out prematurely.

I'm advising you to try the 350 w kit because its 10 ah 36v battery will be affordable, and limited to around 500w, can last up to two years. But if you go out into busy streets, and dice with cars, then you DO need the 25-30 mph speed of the 1000w kits. It really depends on the city, the routes you can ride safely, and such. If you don't have the safe bike routes, then I start saying get a scooter that can go 50 mph and keep up with the damn cars.

Bear in mind, you CAN combine bus riding with e biking in most cities, so a hybrid commute can solve route problems. And after a few years of bike commute, you just saved about $10,000. Or maybe 7 thou, after you gradually upgraded your E bike at a rate of 50 to 100 bucks a month for two years. And the light pedaling you do will improve your legs more than you think.
 
We only know that he lives in some part of the USA the reason we asked because there's different laws different flavors and different sellers in different regions of the United States of America. as we might direct you to a bike store that sells electric bikes and you can put your tail in the seat and try it out . The proof is in the pudding. True research
 
FWIW I had a custom made 48v17.5ah battery from UPP and it took a lot of abuse. Not expensive. I wouldn't hesitate to go with them again.
 
We don't know it's a "he."

EDIT: Should have written----- We don't know the OP is a "he."
 
DearDeathDay said:
Thiskit, for example, is 36v 500w with a 36v 11.6AH ~417wh battery for like ~$700 (after factoring in another torque arm + stuff) which isn't... out of the picture entirely and is better than every ~$1K ebike I can find anywhere. I'd prefer to get the same thing but 750~1000w because its like... a few $100 for the difference between... meh... and... less meh... but, obviously, I can't quite afford that.

I have that kit from several years ago. Comes with a 22A controller, and an LCD display. Mine was a SW900 with horrible PAS. It wanted to go to 20 mph in all 5 PAS levels. The kit was designed for a direct drive motor, so the speedometer didn't work when coasting. I keep asking newer buyers if he fixed that yet. All it takes getting a display with the proper firmware. Nope. STill the same.

I run it with a 20amp kT controller/display, about 100 bucks. Much better riding experience. About 20 mph on 36V, 24 mph on 48V. Gave it to ny brother-in-law. Saved his life, maybe. He's down 45 pounds (also diet).

I cannot beat this deal for $609.
https://www.ecotric.com/products/vortex-electric-city-bike-matt-black
 
RunForTheHills said:
I recently bought my wife a Brompton Electric. It is a folding bike to go with a non-electric Brompton that I have and will allow us to stow the bikes in the back of a small SUV for trips. The Brompton is designed for the UK ebike regulations of 250w and the motor cuts out at exactly 15.8mph. I haven't tried it on any steep hills, but it has no problem with flat roads and mild hills. I found the 15mph cutoff annoying, but my wife loves the bike and the cutoff will make it easier to keep up with her on the non-electric Brompton (until I can get a kit for it).

The price for those isn't even listed on their website lol! That's awesome tho! Getting out and doing things isn't easy but its always nice to get some second hand encouragement! I hope you guys have fun!

999zip999 said:
When you buy a kit except for a high-end and even with expensive kits you're fine you would have to tighten the spokes true the rim before its installed. either you can do this or take it to a local bike store and have them tighten the spokes and true the rim before you put the tire on before you install it.

That seems a little silly? Like, I have to buy a pre-built wheel and then do half the work of building the wheel myself? What am I paying them so much extra for... q:

dogman dan said:
We just know these common motors at sight. The smaller diameter geared motors rate 350w, while the larger diameter geared motors rate 500w. Both can take roughly double the rated motor wattage, for a limited time, like an hour, which may be a half hour longer than the battery lasts. And in any case, if you cruise 20 mph, you use 600w on average. So you have to push the motors hard to damage them, with too much weight, and usually very steep hills.

The typical DD kit motor is rated 500w too, but because they can shed heat faster than geared motors, they can be pushed harder, to about 1500w, and for short enough time periods, 3000w. Push one to 3000w, and it climbs a lot better than a geared 500w motor does at 1500w. So its hard to say which "climbs better". But for sure, the DD motor is the most durable.

What I mostly did at that ebikekit.com job, was try to steer customers to the right kit for their needs. What you describe wanting will be satisfied by the smallest 350w rated motor kit. Best choice if you had the money, would be the 500w rated geared type motor. They are a fantastic choice for both battery economy, lighter weight, and the coasting ability of geared motors makes it feel more bike like to ride. But if you up rate the kit to 48v, and 1000-1200w, then you need a stronger battery. Id advice a bigger battery than 10 ah or so. 15 ah minimum for the 1000w kits. So its simply more expensive to set up a great kit that has more power.

One thing they do,, they sell the battery they can sell. Its smaller, and cheaper. Its not what you need for serious car replacement type bike commuting. For that you want a 48v 20 ah battery. Big, heavy, expensive. Its damn hard to sell people a big expensive battery, so they sell you a small one, and count on you losing interest in riding it before it wears out prematurely.

I'm advising you to try the 350 w kit because its 10 ah 36v battery will be affordable, and limited to around 500w, can last up to two years. But if you go out into busy streets, and dice with cars, then you DO need the 25-30 mph speed of the 1000w kits. It really depends on the city, the routes you can ride safely, and such. If you don't have the safe bike routes, then I start saying get a scooter that can go 50 mph and keep up with the damn cars.

Bear in mind, you CAN combine bus riding with e biking in most cities, so a hybrid commute can solve route problems. And after a few years of bike commute, you just saved about $10,000. Or maybe 7 thou, after you gradually upgraded your E bike at a rate of 50 to 100 bucks a month for two years. And the light pedaling you do will improve your legs more than you think.

Oh, I guess I hadn't counted on you being able to tell from just the pictures! Thank you!

That pretty much sums up my recent dilemma! If I ever figure I have to go faster than the 20-28mph speed limit of the ebike then I should just upgrade to a different class of vehicle. However, getting the licensing for that in order is my entire ebike budget right now... so I'll probably see how biking goes this year and come back to that line of thought next year? Mopeds/Scooters are pretty expensive as well and I have even less of a frame of reference for maintenance on those than I do for bikes.

Yeah... I could put my bike on a bus... but that would require getting on a bus myself which is... not ideal. The bus sucks!

After some thought tho... you are definitely right. I should throw my elitism away and just get something that is decent at the price I can afford. I really do need to not get a terrible battery so a 36v kit is probably the right call. Two years of relatively easy transportation? That is enough to justify the expensive for sure.

It is kind of crazy how expensive cars are, isn't it?

999zip999 said:
We only know that he lives in some part of the USA the reason we asked because there's different laws different flavors and different sellers in different regions of the United States of America. as we might direct you to a bike store that sells electric bikes and you can put your tail in the seat and try it out . The proof is in the pudding. True research

Well, I have a bike already. I've ridden that pretty fast downhill before and I've seen a bunch of ebikes? I'm not sure I really need to try riding the ebike first? I'm sure it'll have an adjustment period but... its just a motorized bike... it shouldn't be... that... complicated... right?

Jordan325ic said:
FWIW I had a custom made 48v17.5ah battery from UPP and it took a lot of abuse. Not expensive. I wouldn't hesitate to go with them again.

It's good to hear that some people have had positive experiences with them! That doesn't detract from the 0.000x% chance of a fire tho! Well, maybe I'm just paranoid lol

99t4 said:
We don't know it's a "he."

EDIT: Should have written----- We don't know the OP is a "he."

I'm neither an it nor a he q:

goatman said:
whats more offensive, "it" or "he"

It's all relative, isn't it? Generally... probably it. I don't get offended about it because it doesn't really matter that much. Well, I suppose its more because people always assume "he" on the internet so I just stopped caring lol

999zip999 said:
Stop it - he or it ? Rude
Just Pat.

pat... pat?

docw009 said:
I have that kit from several years ago. Comes with a 22A controller, and an LCD display. Mine was a SW900 with horrible PAS. It wanted to go to 20 mph in all 5 PAS levels. The kit was designed for a direct drive motor, so the speedometer didn't work when coasting. I keep asking newer buyers if he fixed that yet. All it takes getting a display with the proper firmware. Nope. STill the same.

I run it with a 20amp kT controller/display, about 100 bucks. Much better riding experience. About 20 mph on 36V, 24 mph on 48V. Gave it to ny brother-in-law. Saved his life, maybe. He's down 45 pounds (also diet).

I cannot beat this deal for $609.
https://www.ecotric.com/products/vortex-electric-city-bike-matt-black

That is a really cheap ebike! I already have a bike so I'm not really considering a new one that seriously but they are certainly a lot more aesthetic than mine will be post-conversion lol

That's pretty cool as well! Going outside is usually beneficial one way or another. Having that much weight to safely loose must not have been much fun for him!



I'm not sure this is how I should be responding to all the replies here but... oh well! Thanks again!
 
Pat is a character on Saturday night live and they can never find her out if she was a he or was he a she. And yes you need to check the spokes and true.
Plus you need a multimeter and check the polarity of your battery before you plug it in to the controller if you bought them from two different spaces and it's good to check before you plug it in you need some basic tools.
 
DearDeathDay said:
RunForTheHills said:
I recently bought my wife a Brompton Electric. It is a folding bike to go with a non-electric Brompton that I have and will allow us to stow the bikes in the back of a small SUV for trips. The Brompton is designed for the UK ebike regulations of 250w and the motor cuts out at exactly 15.8mph. I haven't tried it on any steep hills, but it has no problem with flat roads and mild hills. I found the 15mph cutoff annoying, but my wife loves the bike and the cutoff will make it easier to keep up with her on the non-electric Brompton (until I can get a kit for it).

The price for those isn't even listed on their website lol! That's awesome tho! Getting out and doing things isn't easy but its always nice to get some second hand encouragement! I hope you guys have fun!

It is out of you budget. It is a bit overpriced for what you get because it is a Brompton and the way it folds up is unique and the smallest in the market. I was just using it to illustrate that a low powered ebike can still handle normal hills and commuting.
 
999zip999 said:
Pat is a character on Saturday night live and they can never find her out if she was a he or was he a she. And yes you need to check the spokes and true.
Plus you need a multimeter and check the polarity of your battery before you plug it in to the controller if you bought them from two different spaces and it's good to check before you plug it in you need some basic tools.

I see...

I think there's a multimeter or something like that sitting around here somewhere... However, truing the wheel is like...? If I have to do that shouldn't I save 100$ and just spoke a motor onto my current wheel lol
 
DearDeathDay said:
I see...

I think there's a multimeter or something like that sitting around here somewhere... However, truing the wheel is like...? If I have to do that shouldn't I save 100$ and just spoke a motor onto my current wheel lol

Truing the wheel can be done on the bike with just an inexpensive spoke wrench.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f1SHmFBihKM[/youtube]
 
I just bought a 3000 watt kit from ebikeling for $700 shipped. I couldn't get the display in controller to accept a 72 volt battery I tried two different 72 volt batteries but I tried it at 36 volt and there's a flat spot in the rim and thump thump thump and that's after I had tighten the spokes because only four were tight and the rest were just loss as can be. I had to send the kit back for a refund. They refunded me $580 of my $700 I'm going to have to make it a bay just puke over this.
 
999zip999 said:
I just bought a 3000 watt kit from ebikeling for $700 shipped. I couldn't get the display in controller to accept a 72 volt battery I tried two different 72 volt batteries but I tried it at 36 volt and there's a flat spot in the rim and thump thump thump and that's after I had tighten the spokes because only four were tight and the rest were just loss as can be. I had to send the kit back for a refund. They refunded me $580 of my $700 I'm going to have to make it a bay just puke over this.

That is unfortunate!
 
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