E-S Stealth Electric Bike Owners

That looks super clean! The inside of my motor does not look like that!
Hey I noticed it looks like you don't have a temp sensor in there... please let me know if...
A- im on crack and can't see it.
B- you haven't installed one yet.
C- We don't need no stinkin temp sensors.
Btw I have no idea how to wire it to the DS1..
 
1abv said:
That looks super clean! The inside of my motor does not look like that!
Hey I noticed it looks like you don't have a temp sensor in there... please let me know if...
A- im on crack and can't see it.
B- you haven't installed one yet.
C- We don't need no stinkin temp sensors.
Btw I have no idea how to wire it to the DS1..


Thank you... that was Pre-Prep before I put the red varnish on. Honestly it wasn't that bad prior to the clean up either.

No... the temp sensor is there, just on the other side of the hub.. .here you go..! .. and its already wired up to the DC1

On a side note.. you were going to see if you could locate what type and where you got the JST-SM connector for the Hall & Temp wire. If you have some time today can you take a look. late yesterday I finally received the 8-pin water proof connector that I ordered and they are Waaaaay to freakin big. Doing a little more research last night, I think I want the JST-SM 8-pin connector with either a 0.1 pitch or a 1.25 pitch, but I can't find them anywhere where they are not backordered... The connectors for the hall wires are the only thing I have left to do. I'm going to varnish the other side of the hub today and probably put the wheel back together tonight or tomorrow.

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Phase wires and XT connectors are wired on to the controller.

I made a quick jig and soldering station to make it a little easier on myself. I also setup the XT connectors in such a way where its next to impossible to connect the wrong wires.

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Super clean install! Not sure if that was factory to use the bracket to hold the wiring for the temp sensor but very clean. Mine is high temp RTV-ed and zippy tied (messier). I have it mounted into the windings so its a little further out than yours. As far as the JST's here is the kit that I used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YXY415S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_1RZ5HABXWD8XYEB2T87B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

It works fine but if I had to do it all over again I would have got a kit with connectors that can accommodate more pins so I'm only using one connector.

I've never used these but here is a 8 pin kit in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/QLOHNI-1120Pcs-Housing-Terminals-Connector/dp/B081N6K549/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=jst+connector+8+pin&qid=1631206157&sr=8-4
 
@abv - Thank you for sending over that link. I ordered the second kit that you sent over. I'm telling you I search and search all over for the JST 8 pin kits and couldn't find them. I'm going to give those a shot. They should be here on Saturday.

Thank you... No, the temp sensor was mounted that way from the factory. The only thing I did was the Phase wires.
 
Well... here is the update..

I was able to finally wire up the rest of the Hall & Temp wires in today and test everything out.

COMPLETED - The New 10 awg Phase wires and XT150 connectors installed
COMPLETED - Strap all of the wires down to the hub, heat shrink and revarnish everything
COMPLETED - Drill & Tap filler holes in hub cover
PENDING - Find and order Ferro Fluid
PENDING DELIVERY - HubSinks and Install ETA 9/20
COMPLETED - Put everything back together, say a little prayer and test
GOOD NEWS - Just about everything worked..!! I'll explain in a second
- Everything powered up fine and a little twist of throttle and all was good..VERY HAPPY..!!
- I didn't take it for a test drive yet, however, there was no delay, no hesitation, and the wheel spun strong.

ISSUE - After I connected everything back up, I turn the key on and everything was fine. the DC1 prompted me for my pass-code and ONLY the Up arrow and Menu button would work. The DOWN button and OK button would not. I had to hit the up arrow to each of the codes and wait 30 seconds or so for it to go to the next code so I can hit the number.

So I took the DC1 back out and took it apart to inspect
- I can feel a good "depress" of ALL of the buttons. I can hear & feel them click fine
- I sprayed a little T9 lubricant on each of the buttons
- I dont see or smell anything burnt on the circuit board
- The ribbon cable was all the way in and also in great shape
- The connector pins are also all tight and fully in the connector
- I reseated the thing about 10 times
- When you depress the Up arrow or the Menu button, you hear an audible beep, however, when you depress the Down Arrow or OK button you can "Feel" the button being depressed, but you dont hear anything

Any idea's...?


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Anyone's help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. With the exception of this DC1, everything else appears to be working normally. I've also reached out to Stealth support as well. I'm still waiting to hear back. I'm also going to try and contact some Stealth dealers here in the US as well to see if these can be purchased or not.

Thoughts...?
 
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This was from a little while ago not sure If I posted it before...

As far as your DC1 situation. Sorry man I have nothing for ya. I don't have one. good luck!
 
Beautiful photo... I wish I had trails like that in my area on the east coast.

No worries about the DC1, I just hope I can find some support on it, or get it replaced (if I can).. I have a few calls out to people and and an email to Stealth, but I've not heard anything back as of yet. I'm not sure what my options are if I can't get this DC1 fixed or replaced.

I've been reading the posts in the (705-718 post pages) about some of you guys upgrading your controllers & battery packs for a little more performance. I may have to consider that as an option if I can't get this DC1 issue worked out. Plus it's always nice to get a little more performance out of the Bomber...
 
StudRock said:
Beautiful photo... I wish I had trails like that in my area on the east coast.

No worries about the DC1, I just hope I can find some support on it, or get it replaced (if I can).. I have a few calls out to people and and an email to Stealth, but I've not heard anything back as of yet. I'm not sure what my options are if I can't get this DC1 fixed or replaced.

I've been reading the posts in the (705-718 post pages) about some of you guys upgrading your controllers & battery packs for a little more performance. I may have to consider that as an option if I can't get this DC1 issue worked out. Plus it's always nice to get a little more performance out of the Bomber...
Whats your Bomber's frame #?

Edit: Never mind, its 744.
 
Can anybody out there help me troubleshoot my stealth bomber. I picked one up that wasn’t working a while back. It is an original. Bike #69. I ordered a new battery because the old one was only 20v. I got the new battery and connected it. Cycle analyst lit up fine. I lifted the rear wheel off the ground and hit the throttle. Seemed to be fine. When I went to ride it I realized a problem. When you hit the throttle it initially has great power but then it intermittently cuts in and out. I’m thinking throttle or controller. Any ideas?
 
@Golfer....

I have to say, there are a LOT of knowledgeable people on here that I'm sure that can help you out. If I had to speculate, I would start by checking all of the connections. I recently had an issue with my hall wire connector. Since its intermittent, it would imply a loose or damaged wire.

I would remove and clean & inspect the connectors/pins and throw a little dielectric grease. Have you done anything to the bike recently...? I would start in that area first...

Just a thought...
 
Golfer-Electric said:
Can anybody out there help me troubleshoot my stealth bomber. I picked one up that wasn’t working a while back. It is an original. Bike #69. I ordered a new battery because the old one was only 20v. I got the new battery and connected it. Cycle analyst lit up fine. I lifted the rear wheel off the ground and hit the throttle. Seemed to be fine. When I went to ride it I realized a problem. When you hit the throttle it initially has great power but then it intermittently cuts in and out. I’m thinking throttle or controller. Any ideas?

On these old bombers, they factory limited power by having a closed loop wire coming out of the CA. To get full power, the owner would have to pull off the side cover look up under the frame where the CA is, and cut the wire. Sounds like thats what you got going on.
 
1abv... you sure love the night riding...!! - I guess the temperature is cooler at night out there..
 
Me too...

BTW Rix... I ordered that DC1 today. They are saying 2-3 weeks for delivery, so we'll see...

Thanks for your help with that and looking for me..
 
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