raylo32
100 kW
Anyone installed an e-bike motor on road bike with disc brakes? If so, how did you mount the magnetic brake cut off sensors?
Magnetic brake cutoff sensors on road disc brakes?
- Thread starter raylo32
- Start date
miro13car
100 kW
you mean brake cut off hall sensors connected to motor controller of course
hall sensor and small magnet triggering this hall sensor are are already manufactured into brake lever, you can buy it.
hall sensor and small magnet triggering this hall sensor are are already manufactured into brake lever, you can buy it.
raylo32
100 kW
I'd like to keep my existing Shimano hydro disc levers. I have done this on an MTB install but was wondering how or if folks are installing the generic sensors on road bike hydro disc levers.
miro13car said:
Eastwood
100 kW
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2021
- Messages
- 1,479
raylo32 said:
Well you could buy the generic ones that have the magnetic cut off sensor and just use some JB Weld or some type of epoxy.
You might not need brake cut off switch though, I think it really depends on the controller and if it stops sending power to the motor when you stop peddling
raylo32
100 kW
LOL... I know I could use epoxy. That's exactly what I did with my Shimano MTB levers. These road bike levers are all pretty much the same and I was curious to see if anyone here had done it and exactly how they placed the sensors. I don't like to re-create the wheel when I can avoid it.
ZeroEm
1 MW
Using a push button. Use it to cut motor and engage regen (throttle is moved by the palm of my hand) in place of rear brakes (no rear brakes). Have dual front disc on one dual pull brake lever for the front. I use the palm of my hand so I can grip the hand grips and move my wrist to vary regen or use throttle. Saves my thumb for thumbs up. :thumb:
raylo32
100 kW
I would be doing another mid drive without regen so this would just be a kill switch in case of (unlikely) runaways. Not a bad idea! I guess I'd have to check the sensors to see if the contacts are NO or NC and get an appropriate switch. :thumb:
ZeroEm said:
ZeroEm
1 MW
Never thought about it like that. alike to the on/off but everything stays on. Mine would induce motor drag/regen.
My trike has a min speed limit set .1 kph before the throttle will work and the peddles need to turn at a min speed before PAS is enabled.
I worried someone would walkup and hit the throttle messing around. It could hurt someone. So a disable switch would be a thought.
My trike has a min speed limit set .1 kph before the throttle will work and the peddles need to turn at a min speed before PAS is enabled.
I worried someone would walkup and hit the throttle messing around. It could hurt someone. So a disable switch would be a thought.
Monte
10 mW
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2020
- Messages
- 29
Here's where I glued the sensor on mine:
Magnet is inside lever on the hinging piece which moves up and down when pressing the lever in and I could never get a good picture of the placement.
Anyway, the setup was very sensitive to placeme and only worked well for a while. Once the lever sagged a bit and didn't return to quite the same position anymore, it wouldn't release the cutoff.
I have 4500km on this bike and during this time I've first removed one brake sensor, then the other and have now installed a push button on the face of the lever instead.
If you figure out a better placement for the magnetic sensor, I'd love to know as well!
Magnet is inside lever on the hinging piece which moves up and down when pressing the lever in and I could never get a good picture of the placement.
Anyway, the setup was very sensitive to placeme and only worked well for a while. Once the lever sagged a bit and didn't return to quite the same position anymore, it wouldn't release the cutoff.
I have 4500km on this bike and during this time I've first removed one brake sensor, then the other and have now installed a push button on the face of the lever instead.
If you figure out a better placement for the magnetic sensor, I'd love to know as well!
raylo32
100 kW
Hey, thanks, Monte. I am beginning to believe that this is just too fiddly. And honestly I don't think I really need these sensors. My current MTB based e-bikes are both torque sense and the motors stop when I stop pedaling. Never had an issue with them running on or whatever. But I may consider doing a kill switch... a pushbutton like yours or maybe a small rocker like most motorcycles. Although I wonder if they still put those on most motorcycles now... at least the ones that are throttle by wire and not cable.
Monte said:
raylo32
100 kW
Those are pretty slick, but a lot more work to splice into the hydraulics. And not sure if my Shimano brake hoses or your SRAM hoses are the same spec as Magura or if we might need adapters. That would be something else to research.
Monte said:
miro13car
100 kW
pushbutton? hmm
sometimes you have only seconds to engage brake.
pressing pushbutton would have to be very strange way to engage regen braking
sometimes you have only seconds to engage brake.
pressing pushbutton would have to be very strange way to engage regen braking
ZeroEm
1 MW
I have good dexterity if I need to stop faster use my left had at the same time as i'm using my right hand thumb to apply my dual front disc brakes so that three wheels braking. Guess one might think that pulling a lever might be faster than pushing a button, I disagree. It's mostly used to slow down or keep speed in check down hills. Main reason is to keep a grip on the steering, much more concerned about a pot hole if only steering with your thumbs. But I guess when your humped over like a camel putting pressure on your palms it works well. like to get the most out of my regen which is not much and grinding off my brake pads to engage regen is not very productive. I know hooking up a push button is much harder than what came with the kit.
The trike did not come with a rear brake and adding braking with regen thought was a good idea and not trying add mounts for brake and a third lever. Trikes rear tire under hard braking don't always have the most traction so a disc brake or other braking on my swing arm would only slide the tire which we all know would not help as much in slowing down. It may slide sideways while i'm trying to stop fast.
Then there is do you connect regen to the left front disc brake lever or the right and do I need to pull the other lever every time regen is used as not to ware out one side and have the trike pull around or swap regen from left to right every 1000 miles.
hmm seemed easer to put a button.
raylo32
100 kW
No regen anticipated or needed... at least for me as the OP here. This is mainly a way to duplicate the safety cutoff feature of the brake sensors for mid-drives. They really aren't needed, I suppose, at least unless and until they are needed.
miro13car said:
miro13car
100 kW
typical brake lever on ebike - you pull the lever half way you engage regen, you pull more you start to grind brake pads /disc or V-brake.
that is how typical ebike brake lever works
beauty of any ebike is regen which saves pads, also on EV.
also listening to those disc/pads noises ...
I must say I use pads grinding only for emergency breaking.
that is how typical ebike brake lever works
beauty of any ebike is regen which saves pads, also on EV.
also listening to those disc/pads noises ...
I must say I use pads grinding only for emergency breaking.
raylo32
100 kW
Not at all typical for mid-motor conversions that don't have regen. These switches are simply make or break motor cutoffs.
miro13car said:
miro13car
100 kW
they ARE typical for DD motor drives
miro13car
100 kW
miro13car said:
raylo32
100 kW
Yes, fine. But why are you posting that in MY thread for mid motor cutoffs?? LOL.
miro13car said:
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